Dan, I all to often hear on the interwebs how ektar needs to be handled like slide film or how it has a limited range (dynamic). I find this false and the above proves it. The above sunbursts shots were shot in deep shadow directly into the sun. My 5dmkii would need to be bracketed. I just metered on the shadows. Highlights easily preserved.
Interesting side note, the abandoned house in #1, 3, and 4 were inhabitated in the late 40's by the famous (now deceased) photographer, docu-filmaker and naturalist Peter Koch's wife and children while he was out photographing, at the time new, national park as well as creating documentary films of the area.
Taken with Canon FTb, Canon 50/1.8 S.C. lens on Kodak Tri-X 400 film (35 mm), developed with Kodak D76 developer, undiluted. My first film which I ever developed on my own, and it was an instant success.....now I am addicted .
I know I know I will eventually get some. However I did just buy a bulk roll of kentmere 100. We will see how it plays. I have a stock of tmax100 on hand as well as some delta 100 and 400. Some plus x and fp4 as well for traditional stuff. A ton of 400 iso hp5+, some triX and kentmere 400 along with an oddball foma 400. Still have 4-5 rolls of double x left as well. Lets not talk about how much consumer c-41 color I have.
Lovely images on this page. Rattymouse you seem to have started mastering the Plustek 120 now with great tones from the b&w scans. I still find that Vuescan is superior for b&w scans - Silverfast seems to loose too much detail in the highlights no matter what I did. I usually scan to get the maximum amount of detail of both highlights and shadows almost like a raw file and then apply curves in Photoshop and/or Lightroom.
Mamiya C330 - 80/2.8 and Ektar 100 - scanned with my "backup" Coolscan 8000 scanner that does seem to be a tiny bit sharper than the Coolscan 9000 (I think I need to have the mirror cleaned). Self developed with the Tetenal Kit at 35'C - this extends the development time to 5:30min but I no longer have any issues with uneven devlopment that the shorted time was occasionally causing visible particularly in the sky.
nicoimages wrote:
Lovely images on this page. Rattymouse you seem to have started mastering the Plustek 120 now with great tones from the b&w scans. I still find that Vuescan is superior for b&w scans - Silverfast seems to loose too much detail in the highlights no matter what I did. I usually scan to get the maximum amount of detail of both highlights and shadows almost like a raw file and then apply curves in Photoshop and/or Lightroom.
Mamiya C330 - 80/2.8 and Ektar 100 - scanned with my "backup" Coolscan 8000 scanner that does seem to be a tiny bit sharper than the Coolscan 9000 (I think I need to have the mirror cleaned). Self developed with the Tetenal Kit at 35'C - this extends the development time to 5:30min but I no longer have any issues with uneven devlopment that the shorted time was occasionally causing visible particularly in the sky.
WOW, but that is one sharp scan! Amazing. Absolutely amazing.
Question for you, what DPI setting do you scan for web use? I'm not sure how high up the resolution scale I should go. It's fun to max out the DPI but it takes time and disk space.
Jeez you guys! Now I'm really wanting a MF film camera. Only question is...which one should I be looking at for my first MF camera? Some sort of Hassy with the 80/2.8
A Hassy that's in good condition isn't cheap, but you could check out craigslist for one.
Remember that a Hassy is 6x6 format. For some that's a must have, others a deal breaker.
I would recommend a Mamiya but there are nice Fuji foldable ones too, like Tom's Fujifilm GF670W.
If you want interchangeable lenses, a foldable might not satisfy your style.
Since I havehad a few Mamiyas, I'll mention a few.
For Mamiya, you have a choice of...
Mamiya 7. For a camera & lens, you can get a good one for ~$1000-1200
Mamiya RB or RZ series. RZ would be better but there are plenty of happy RB users (its all mechanical)
If you are careful & patient can get an RZ one lens kit (body/back/lens) for $500-750
Mamiya 645 models. I had a 645AFD with three lens & a couple of backs. I think I had about $1500 in it.
I would checkout what models you might be considering & research both for price & things to look out for.
A Hassy that's in good condition isn't cheap, but you could check out craigslist for one.
Remember that a Hassy is 6x6 format. For some that's a must have, others a deal breaker.
I would recommend a Mamiya but there are nice Fuji foldable ones too, like Tom's Fujifilm GF670W.
If you want interchangeable lenses, a foldable might not satisfy your style.
Since I havehad a few Mamiyas, I'll mention a few.
For Mamiya, you have a choice of...
Mamiya 7. For a camera & lens, you can get a good one for ~$1000-1200
Mamiya RB or RZ series. RZ would be better but there are plenty of happy RB users (its all mechanical)
If you are careful & patient can get an RZ one lens kit (body/back/lens) for $500-750
Mamiya 645 models. I had a 645AFD with three lens & a couple of backs. I think I had about $1500 in it.
I would checkout what models you might be considering & research both for price & things to look out for.
Thank you very much Dan! I'm perusing through EvilBay for prices on the Mamiya 645 RB/RZ and the Mamiya 7II MF cameras. I do have one question regarding the MF lens focal length though. Since I've only shot 35mm, I don't have a reference for MF focal lengths. I'm seeing quite a few 645 RZ w/ 110mm f/2.8 kits. What is the "equivalent" FL for the 110mm in terms of 35mm film?
Alpha_Geist wrote:
Thank you very much Dan! I'm perusing through EvilBay for prices on the Mamiya 645 RB/RZ and the Mamiya 7II MF cameras. I do have one question regarding the MF lens focal length though. Since I've only shot 35mm, I don't have a reference for MF focal lengths. I'm seeing quite a few 645 RZ w/ 110mm f/2.8 kits. What is the "equivalent" FL for the 110mm in terms of 35mm film?
If you can really try to get your hands on what you get before you buy. The RB/RZ are wonderful, solid pieces of kit but they're also huge and heavy. I'd at least consider a 2x3 technical camera with a rollfilm back if you're looking for 6x7 or larger. If you start collecting lenses, a 2 lens tech cam kit is much smaller than a 2 lens RB/RZ/Pentax67 kit. A 3 lens kit is much smaller than a 3-lens 'Blad/Bronnie 6x6 kit. You also get movements -- limited, but very handy for architecture and landscape. And if you get the press cam type you can use it handheld like an normal(ish) rangefinder. Also you might look at the Mamiya 6 (later model), which is a collapsible rangefinder with 3 lenses available. It's 6x6, which may or may not be a good thing. In SLRs maybe also the Bronica SQ line. It doesn't have the glitz nameplate, but it's a sweet handling, no drama (unlike certain Blads), get on with it camera. Cheap, too. I sold mine, miss it a lot, and keep getting tempted to get an S2A or D (previous generation).
As for FL equivalence, there's no good way to do this since the form factors are different. But roughly 645 is about 1.6x (so that 110mm is "like" 66 on 35mm), 6x7 is 2x, 6x6 is so different it's hard to say.
wfektar wrote:
If you can really try to get your hands on what you get before you buy. The RB/RZ are wonderful, solid pieces of kit but they're also huge and heavy. I'd at least consider a 2x3 technical camera with a rollfilm back if you're looking for 6x7 or larger. If you start collecting lenses, a 2 lens tech cam kit is much smaller than a 2 lens RB/RZ/Pentax67 kit. A 3 lens kit is much smaller than a 3-lens 'Blad/Bronnie 6x6 kit. You also get movements -- limited, but very handy for architecture and landscape. And if you get the press cam type you can use it handheld like an normal(ish) rangefinder. Also you might look at the Mamiya 6 (later model), which is a collapsible rangefinder with 3 lenses available. It's 6x6, which may or may not be a good thing. In SLRs maybe also the Bronica SQ line. It doesn't have the glitz nameplate, but it's a sweet handling, no drama (unlike certain Blads), get on with it camera. Cheap, too. I sold mine, miss it a lot, and keep getting tempted to get an S2A or D (previous generation).
As for FL equivalence, there's no good way to do this since the form factors are different. But roughly 645 is about 1.6x (so that 110mm is "like" 66 on 35mm), 6x7 is 2x, 6x6 is so different it's hard to say....Show more →
Thank you for the tons of information!!! I think I might start with a Mamiya RB/RZ system first. I did a bit of Googling and browsing KEH and stumbled upon a Pentax 67ii. What a behemoth! If I recall correctly, a local camera store has the 67ii with wooden grip for sale. I think I will stop by early next week and hold it. I've read that the RB/RZ cameras were heavy, but I think the 67ii trumps them both!
A Hassy that's in good condition isn't cheap, but you could check out craigslist for one.
Remember that a Hassy is 6x6 format. For some that's a must have, others a deal breaker.
I would recommend a Mamiya but there are nice Fuji foldable ones too, like Tom's Fujifilm GF670W.
If you want interchangeable lenses, a foldable might not satisfy your style.
Since I havehad a few Mamiyas, I'll mention a few.
For Mamiya, you have a choice of...
Mamiya 7. For a camera & lens, you can get a good one for ~$1000-1200
Mamiya RB or RZ series. RZ would be better but there are plenty of happy RB users (its all mechanical)
If you are careful & patient can get an RZ one lens kit (body/back/lens) for $500-750
Mamiya 645 models. I had a 645AFD with three lens & a couple of backs. I think I had about $1500 in it.
I would checkout what models you might be considering & research both for price & things to look out for.
I will eventually get some. However I did just buy a bulk roll of kentmere 100. We will see how it plays. I have a stock of tmax100 on hand as well as some delta 100 and 400. Some plus x and fp4 as well for traditional stuff. A ton of 400 iso hp5+, some triX and kentmere 400 along with an oddball foma 400. Still have 4-5 rolls of double x left as well. Lets not talk about how much consumer c-41 color I have.
