I've been wanting to try scanning with the A7, and after seeing Sebboh shots I gave it a try. It does works pretty good like he said you have to adjust white balance to get color right but if you use a lot of the same film it wouldn't take long to get it down.
rattymouse wrote:
Fantastic Japan shots Noah. What camera and scanner are you using?
Thanks!
That was the Rolleiflex 2.8C, I scan on the V600 using Epson software, then I resized it in PS (or other minor tweaks, dust removal, color sometimes..etc..).
Doug, I am not far from you (Manchester, TN). Guess Dury's is the only gig left in town up there (or is it another shop?). I began developing c-41 at home and now both c-41 and B&W. I have a little 2bed1bath house and make do just fine. Soup it in the kitchen sink, hang to dry on a hanger, scan at home. There is 1 place in Chattanooga that does E6 and B&W only (no c-41) but have not used them yet (I work in Chattanooga). Will for some Velvia I am waiting on using out west. http://northlightimaging.com/services/
I've done E6 at home and it's not much different then C-41, just one more step as you use a 2nd developer in the process. Only draw back for me is you can't print them in the darkroom so then you have to scan and print on computer. Less fiddling around with the color like C-41 negatives though it seems. Here's a few E6 negatives developed at home.
This is one of the last remaining old-school labs in the area. I occasionally bring 120 film up there from my Holga and found that even the proofs are nicely done. Click the Services link to see current prices.
Good luck and happy shooting!
Mpking wrote:
I really want the control that processing your own B&W brings but I simply don't have the time and I don't shoot enough film to make use of the chemicals before the go bad so finding a good lab has been important for me. It's tough though. Most small labs seem to have closed leaving a few big labs and a few specialty places that seem to have survived. A few that I have tried or want to try:
-NCPS http://northcoastphoto.com/film_developing_scans.html One of the more popular labs (on the west coast at least). I've used they quite a bit. They do a fine job at processing, their scans are high res, and their prices are pretty good. Turn around time has been quick for me. They are in California.
-Richard Photo Lab http://www.richardphotolab.com/ I've wanted to try RPL but just haven't got around to it yet. I think of them as being more high end. They advertise many well know professional photographers as clients. They will apply post processing to your scans. They are in California too.
-Indie Film Lab http://indiefilmlab.com/pricing I just tried this place out and liked the results. The prices are about the best I've found as well. I'd say they are like Richard Photo Lab in that they will apply post processing to your scans to your specifications (if you want) but they are much less expensive. I'll be using them again. They are in Alabama.
-There may be a professional lab near you still, they are just hard to find. I used to use Blue Moon Camera in Portland, OR (before they raised their prices a bunch and I had to start the mail order process) and I found them simply by searching for 'film lab' or something like that on google maps.
-I haven't tried them or heard much but If you are just interested in B&W, Ilford has opened up a lab in the US http://www.ilfordlab-us.com/
Dan, I remember you posting that image once before and having a color cast. Great job with the re-process. Colors look great!
tjack, I have thought about developing e6 at home but my scanner doesn't natively scan slides (it can with a clunky workaround) and I have forbidden myself from ever going back to flatbed scanning 35mm. I have resigned myself to c41 and B&W at home, all else goes out.
Two scans done last night of a roll of Velvia 50 shot in Mar - Apr: autumn here in the S hemisphere.
Pentax 645N. Lens on the first is probably the 200 f4. The second it's probably the 75/2.8 with a Lee graduated (0.6 soft or 0.9 hard) filter. Both the A manual lenses.
tjack wrote:
Did you try setting shutter to M90, also need good batteries, or maybe the foam strip is gooey and holding it up.
Couple with Contax G1 Sonnar 90mm using Adox Color.
Hah that fixed the trick took the battery off turn to m250 then wow it works!
Thanks tjack tho I wasted 1 roll of delta when I open it halfway
BTW, cool street candid.
took the battery off turn to m250 then wow it works!
