This was taken at Mare Island, I highly recommend this place if you are anywhere near it. Yashica Electro MC 2.8, Tri-X 400, developed and scanned at home.
Here are some more, All Ektar, mamiya 7ii, Istanbul/Cappadocia area...
Scanned via V600 with a very little curve adjustment/color adjustment in PS.
I also got an E-6 kit which should be here in a few days so I can process the Velvia/provia shots. Since it will come out cheaper then sending them (8 rolls pays out on my end), plus I can scan them when they are dry without little or no dust!
buggz2k wrote:
I just wanted an overview of how people care for the media and the scanner itself, especially for dust.
Thanks!
Dust is always going to be an issue more or less. The goal is to minimize it to reduce your time in post processing.
Chances are that unless you're going with a Walgreens/Target processing, then you're highly unlikely to have issues with dust from the lab itself.
In terms of scanning/care for the film- I always store my film in archive sleeves. PrintFile makes good stuff.
Prior to each scan session I clean my scanner- first most of the big pieces with an air can, then if there are any residues from my scanning tape I use PecPads with some methanol or isopropanol (whatever cleaner I have).
The film I usually brush with a Staticmaster brush a couple of times, which gets rid of most of the dust.
I never use ICE on my scanner, and just spot correct in PS as needed.
I too am liking ultramax 400. The pakon scans it like a champ. All of you home developers are making me envious Think I am going to order a c41 kit tonight. Heck, I do everything else myself including roasting my own coffee beans. How hard can it be?
Jon Buffington wrote:
I too am liking ultramax 400. The pakon scans it like a champ. All of you home developers are making me envious Think I am going to order a c41 kit tonight. Heck, I do everything else myself including roasting my own coffee beans. How hard can it be?
It's really easy Jon. In fact I think its a bit easier than B&W actually. The only semi critical part is getting the developer at 100 degrees Fahrenheit before you begin. I like the tetenal liquid kit at freestyle
jim bennett wrote:
It's really easy Jon. In fact I think its a bit easier than B&W actually. The only semi critical part is getting the developer at 100 degrees Fahrenheit before you begin. I like the tetenal liquid kit at freestyle
I just ordered the tetenol kit. Have 5 rolls waiting to be developed. My pakon is chomping at the bit so I may have to get these developed at Walgreens one more time.
Jon Buffington wrote:
I just ordered the tetenol kit. Have 5 rolls waiting to be developed. My pakon is chomping at the bit so I may have to get these developed at Walgreens one more time.
Hey Jon are you the same Jon Buffington from the Pakon user group on Facebook? I just realized I linked the Rollei kit instead of the Tenenol kit but i think they are pretty close either way.
I've been spending a bit more time with 35mm over the past couple of weeks. It's quite a challenge if you're used to the results from medium format film and the latest digital cameras.
Here's some TMAX (Olympus OM-2n; 50/1.4)
Also, this came in the mail today. Fresh service, and what an exquisite viewfinder.
rattymouse wrote:
Keep the shots from Turkey coming. I wish you showed up here a month earlier. I could have gone to Turkey but just didnt feel the inspiration. Your photos have changed that, sadly too late for this year.
You missed out - I've only been to Istanbul but it's a very unique place (east meets west, etc.).
"Is any light able to be used in the dark room, especially when loading the film in the canister? "
For any normal film sensitive to visible light spectrum, the answer is no. You'll have to load the film reel in complete and total darkness. You should practice with a junk roll of film, first in daylight and then in the dark to check your progress.
When making standard black and white prints you can and should use a red or orange safelight. If you are making projected color prints in the darkroom, then you're back in the dark again.
Peter Figen wrote:
"Is any light able to be used in the dark room, especially when loading the film in the canister? "
For any normal film sensitive to visible light spectrum, the answer is no. You'll have to load the film reel in complete and total darkness. You should practice with a junk roll of film, first in daylight and then in the dark to check your progress.
When making standard black and white prints you can and should use a red or orange safelight. If you are making projected color prints in the darkroom, then you're back in the dark again.
Thank you, this is easier to grasp, from people with first hand experience, and/or better understanding of things! I want to do the B&W only, as an introduction, however, I don't know what qualifies as standard, does this mean lower quality? I would like my negatives only, to be developed and then I could scan at home, later!
I also would like to act as if the photo I shot was what is considered artistic, therefore having all the qualities that can be gotten, from self developing, does this make sense? Would that be capable with home scanning of the developed negative? Thank you for your time, and explanation! -Americo.r
a.RodriguezPix wrote:
Thank you, this is easier to grasp, from people with first hand experience, and/or better understanding of things! I want to do the B&W only, as an introduction, however, I don't know what qualifies as standard, does this mean lower quality? I would like my negatives only, to be developed and then I could scan at home, later!
I also would like to act as if the photo I shot was what is considered artistic, therefore having all the qualities that can be gotten, from self developing, does this make sense? Would that be capable with home scanning of the developed negative? Thank you for your time, and explanation! -Americo.r...Show more →
Also, I plan on developing 120 mostly! thanks again!
jim bennett wrote:
Hey Jon are you the same Jon Buffington from the Pakon user group on Facebook? I just realized I linked the Rollei kit instead of the Tenenol kit but i think they are pretty close either way.
I am. I noticed you linked the rollei kit as well but no worries. I followed the link from the fb group and ordered the supplies listed on there. I believe you listed all that was needed on there so thank you
Also, I plan on developing 120 mostly! thanks again!
As already mentioned, you MUST load your film onto the reel in total darkness. You should not be able to see your own hand in front of your face. ANY light and your film will be ruined. I load my film in a closet that is totally dark. The first time I tried, it took me almost 30 mins to get it onto the reel. I probably used every swear word in the book. It was DAMN hard. I almost gave up. But I didnt and eventually got it onto the reel.
The second time I tried it took me FIVE minutes to get the film onto the reel.
Think I am going to order a c41 kit tonight. Heck, I do everything else myself including roasting my own coffee beans. How hard can it be?
