edwardkaraa wrote:
It is a great idea to develop your own film. Wish I could do that myself.
You probably could. The only things you need are running water, a developing tank and a changing bag (or a dark room to spool up the film on the reels). Plus some sort of tray for a tempered bath if you mean C-41. But you don't need any advanced devices or so.
Nice works.I especially Like the 'bike' shot, 'everything we need' and 'cat' shots in this page.
I like the pictures shown in this thread. It is not about how real it is but the way pictures rendered in film. I like them somehow separate with reality effortless not like digital does.(hevay PP) It remind me that it is not MTF, sharpness, accurate color mattered, this media is still a good art form to record something in our memory.
at least, for some type of photos, this is exact what I need.
I recent bought a M3, a bare bone approach for me, but it is very fun
This is from my 2nd rolls. with M3 and 50 rigid WO and Fiji pro160.
and this one is really surprise me how film can do with good light.
Now, I need some helps:
1. Where to get film cheap like Fiji/kodak pro160/400 and B&W?
2. How much i should expect for developing and a 1800X1200 scan in CD?I paid about $12 for color and $15 for B&W, is that normal?
3. What is 135 negative capable of resolution. I heard is about 6M, it that right?
4. Which scanner are good for film, below $500 either used or new?
Makten wrote:
You probably could. The only things you need are running water, a developing tank and a changing bag (or a dark room to spool up the film on the reels). Plus some sort of tray for a tempered bath if you mean C-41. But you don't need any advanced devices or so.
Yes, I have done that for a long while back in the 80s, but it gave me a serious case of asthmatic allergy. Coincidentally I was healed as soon as I quit my darkroom. It is probably the main reason why I feel reluctant to fool around with chemicals again. But it is very tempting.
zhangyue wrote:
1. Where to get film cheap like Fiji/kodak pro160/400 and B&W?
2. How much i should expect for developing and a 1800X1200 scan in CD?I paid about $12 for color and $15 for B&W, is that normal?
3. What is 135 negative capable of resolution. I heard is about 6M, it that right?
4. Which scanner are good for film, below $500 either used or new?
Congrats on your M3
There are plenty of deals on film all over the net (especially fleabay). Or you can buy from a reputable supplier like BH. For scanning, check precision camera link on RFF. As for resolution, I think it is around 160 lpmm for slow slide film like Velvia, and even up to 400 lpmm for some speciality b/w film, but color negative film isn't as good. Regarding scanners, i would recommend Pacific Image/Reflecta (this is what I use) or Plustek. Both offer excellent scanners for less than 500$.
PS: I would feel reluctant to measure film resolution in MP. But you are correct that if you compare with a DSLR file, you should get around 6-8 MP of useable resolution.
There are plenty of deals on film all over the net (especially fleabay). Or you can buy from a reputable supplier like BH. For scanning, check precision camera link on RFF. As for resolution, I think it is around 160 lpmm for slow slide film like Velvia, and even up to 400 lpmm for some speciality b/w film, but color negative film isn't as good. Regarding scanners, i would recommend Pacific Image/Reflecta (this is what I use) or Plustek. Both offer excellent scanners for less than 500$.
PS: I would feel reluctant to measure film resolution in MP. But you are correct that if you compare with a DSLR file, you should get around 6-8 MP of useable resolution. ...Show more →
Thanks for the reply, Edward. Appreciate. I will do some research about it. As for fleabay(I assume you refer ebay.) How is it mattered for expired film? Looks like the price is not that cheap compare to BN ones.
As for scanner, how that two compare to Epson V700?
1. Where to get film cheap like Fiji/kodak pro160/400 and B&W?
2. How much i should expect for developing and a 1800X1200 scan in CD?I paid about $12 for color and $15 for B&W, is that normal?
3. What is 135 negative capable of resolution. I heard is about 6M, it that right?
4. Which scanner are good for film, below $500 either used or new?
Thanks in advance
Welcome to the thread, zhangyue!
1. You buy film lots of places, like the New York retailers, or Freestyle, which is maybe one of the largest distributors of analog photography equipment in the USA (based here in LA). Ebay is a good source for expired film, where you generally get the best value if you buy in bulk. Expired film, as long as it's stored properly (cool and dry) will be good for a long time. Slower film holds up longer (I shot 11 year old E100 a month ago and it looks fine), and faster film will slow down over time.
2. 1800x1200? That sounds like a Costco scan. You can use NCPS in San Diego and their basic scan is 2000x3000. Precision (as Edward mentioned) will do a process/scan for $12 if you follow their link from RFF and will end up being a 24mp scan, which kind of overkill for 35mm film. It ends up being $12-$16 generally.
3. You can check out each individual film's technical data ("curves") on the manufacturers' websites).
4. Edward's recommendations are good. A dedicated film scanner will almost always outperform a flatbed.
Film is a refreshing change from shooting digital. I still enjoy digital photography, however after you shoot a certain type of film for a while, you start to predict how the results will be, and once you get the scans back, you don't need to do the type of PP you'd need to do on your M9. This is especially true for skin tones, as Fuji and Kodak have figured out color long before the Sony/Nikon/Canon sensor crowd will.
A quick question: if I get a dedicate film scanner, How will those perform compare to Lab you mentioned above? I assume I no longer need to send off to scan, right?
zhangyue wrote:
Hi, Corposant, thanks for the answer.
A quick question: if I get a dedicate film scanner, How will those perform compare to Lab you mentioned above? I assume I no longer need to send off to scan, right?
In my experience, having a lab do the scans has rendered better results for me. I had a Nikon Coolscan IV ED. You have to remember that good labs have much better equipment, lol.
I am actually selling my 1Ds and going to film for the next 7-9 months. Will be an exciting time! I just hope I can get the same results I was from my old, trusty 1Ds. Keeping the same lens (Tokina 17mm 3.5 RMC).. This thread is great, BTW
Just want to say: I sold a framed 11x14 print today! Wasn't even trying - client felt an emotional attachment to the scene (remember yin yang?) and bought it for her dad.
Yes ... Several pages back. I had it framed in a 16x20 gallery frame with white rag matte and she saw it and said she had to have it. My second darkroom print ever sold ( first was kinda the same thing - an image of an old tree that had to be cut down and they saw it on my website and ordered it for their friend as a gift).
Great job, Katie! Was this one from your new Bessa?
Zhangyue - labs have a huge advantage - they have better equipment, but it's also the easiest to scan film just after it has been developed - it is the cleanest and flattest it will ever be.
Thanks for all the answers. I am good to go
Hopefully, I can join this thread often.
corposant, nice images. I have to do a google search to know what is XPAN
