zi464 wrote:
Guys, need your help to pick the 28mm Elmarit between v4 and asph v1
I would use this lens for film and digital
Thank you all
Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum, McMinnville, Oregon
M4, 28mm 2.8 Elmarit ASPH V1, Tri-X, HC-110
I've owned two of the V1 and like them a lot. They're one of Leicas smallest lenses but are easy to focus and very sharp. The second one was sold when I went with the then new 28 2.0 Ultron. Sold the Ultron and now I have a Zeiss Biogon.
Years ago, I had a V4. Nice lens but a lot bigger and blocks part of the finder. Even with the hood, the ASPH is barely visible.
madNbad wrote:
I had a V4. Nice lens but a lot bigger and blocks part of the finder. Even with the hood, the ASPH is barely visible.
Thank you for the info, it is really helpful.
Try to get a Lecia lens for each focal length that I use to complete the collection.
21mm - Elmarit 2.8 is my first Leica lens with strong vignetting.
28mm - Choose between Elmarit v4 and asph v1
35mm - Pretty much I would get the king of bokeh.
50mm - Highly chance to get the Summicron v4
75mm - May skip this focal length. Have a Voigtlander should be more than enough.
I don't often push film, maybe 4 or 5 rolls per year, and I've been struggling to find a long shelf-life developer that works well for pushing the films I like to push. I got some 510 Pyro, which has a long shelf life and is environmentally safe (at the dilutions used), and I found times for pushing HP5 and Tri-X, two of the films I push most often. I think this will work! To test, I shot a roll of Tri-X at a dance last night at EI 800 and developed it this morning in 510 Pyro at 1:100 for 29.5 minutes using the semi-stand technique described in Zone Imaging's 510 Pyro data sheet.
bjhurley wrote:
I don't often push film, maybe 4 or 5 rolls per year, and I've been struggling to find a long shelf-life developer that works well for pushing the films I like to push. I got some 510 Pyro, which has a long shelf life and is environmentally safe (at the dilutions used), and I found times for pushing HP5 and Tri-X, two of the films I push most often. I think this will work! To test, I shot a roll of Tri-X at a dance last night at EI 800 and developed it this morning in 510 Pyro at 1:100 for 29.5 minutes using the semi-stand technique described in Zone Imaging's 510 Pyro data sheet.
madNbad wrote:
These look good. Have you tried Xtol or XT-3? Both of those are more enviromentaly friendly than most developers,
Thanks, I looked into them but it's the shelf-life issue: I can make up a batch but then it will sit for so long that it expires before I use it again, if I'm mainly using it for pushing. I could of course use one of these as my daily developer which would eliminate that issue; I've looked into XT-3 as an option for that and may ultimately settle on it but we'll see. I don't want to get into Xtol as the quantity is too high and while I know there are solutions like using wine bladders for storage I'd prefer a simpler solution -- XT-3 is better in that regard.
For now I'm mainly using Rodinal and Flic Film's Black, White, and Green. Rodinal is very toxic, but I mainly use it at 1:100 or occasionally 1:50. BW&G is quite benign but I don't always like it (I hate it with HP5, never got satisfactory results, but it's great on the Fomapan films and a few others like Ilford SFX 200 and the T-Max films).
bjhurley wrote:
Thanks, I looked into them but it's the shelf-life issue: I can make up a batch but then it will sit for so long that it expires before I use it again, if I'm mainly using it for pushing. I could of course use one of these as my daily developer which would eliminate that issue; I've looked into XT-3 as an option for that and may ultimately settle on it but we'll see. I don't want to get into Xtol as the quantity is too high and while I know there are solutions like using wine bladders for storage I'd prefer a simpler solution -- XT-3 is better in that regard.
For now I'm mainly using Rodinal and Flic Film's Black, White, and Green. Rodinal is very toxic, but I mainly use it at 1:100 or occasionally 1:50. BW&G is quite benign but I don't always like it (I hate it with HP5, never got satisfactory results, but it's great on the Fomapan films and a few others like Ilford SFX 200 and the T-Max films).
I have the same problem with Xtol, Five liters is too much for me to use before it expires. There's a lot of information about storing it in wine bags or Stop Loss bags for woodworking finishes but our house is small and storage space is limited. I was buying XT-3 in one liter bags, splitting that into four 250ml brown glass bottles, then using it 1:1. I gave a bunch of it to @_jim_ when I decided to use up the Rodinal. Next up is the Bellini RDL and I also have a bag of FPP-76 to use with some Arista Pan 100 Huss ent me because it didn't like DF-96.
I like the sharpness from Rodinal and other acutance developers but I also like the tones from the compensating developers like XT-3. I'll probably buy a couple of one liter bags of XT-3 just for ann occasional change.
P.S. Looks like one liter bags of XT-3 are out of stock, Guess I'll check back in a couple of months.
madNbad wrote:
I like the sharpness from Rodinal and other acutance developers but I also like the tones from the compensating developers like XT-3. I'll probably buy a couple of one liter bags of XT-3 just for ann occasional change.
I like the 510 Pyro: it gives you a lot of the sharpness of Rodinal, but with fine grain. It's a staining developer, so you need to use water to stop development (no acidic stop bath) and a neutral or alkaline fixer (I bought the Zone Imaging EcoFix). Anything acidic will remove the stain and degrade the quality of the image. It's pretty economical: you only use it in 1:100 dilutions for film. It has a shelf life of years, I think at least 6.
It is a bit of a pain to work with, though, as it is even more viscous than Black, White, and Green -- it's downright goopy. They provide an oral syringe and a pierced cap that goes on the bottle and you draw down the developer into the syringe from that. In theory, anyway. I found it tricky to fill the syringe; you're supposed to hold the bottle upside down but it's kind of a juggling act. I have a regular oral syringe with an extension tube and might try that next time.
bjhurley wrote:
I like the 510 Pyro: it gives you a lot of the sharpness of Rodinal, but with fine grain. It's a staining developer, so you need to use water to stop development (no acidic stop bath) and a neutral or alkaline fixer (I bought the Zone Imaging EcoFix). Anything acidic will remove the stain and degrade the quality of the image. It's pretty economical: you only use it in 1:100 dilutions for film. It has a shelf life of years, I think at least 6.
It is a bit of a pain to work with, though, as it is even more viscous than Black, White, and Green -- it's downright goopy. They provide an oral syringe and a pierced cap that goes on the bottle and you draw down the developer into the syringe from that. In theory, anyway. I found it tricky to fill the syringe; you're supposed to hold the bottle upside down but it's kind of a juggling act. I have a regular oral syringe with an extension tube and might try that next time....Show more →
I have enjoyed the Rodinal experiment over the last few years and the RDL will be a fine replacement but I'm going back to the love of my life. I just ordered a bottle of Adox HC-110. When I returned to developing film in 2018, Kodak was still making the old formula. I used that bottle until it was gone then switched to Rodinal. I have had had good results with Adox products and hopefully, this will be one more I like.
