Makten wrote:
You are probably still underdeveloping your slides. Crank up your temp for the first developer 1°C or so, or prolong development with 1-2 minutes.
Thanks Martin, all the info is very useful.
I did increase temperatures slightly and got colour shift, highlights noticeably shifted towards yellow, shadows slightly blue.
What's with all the people laying down around Seoul Station? #2 looks like a young girl?
Comp in the last shot is brilliantly done with the XPan!
Their all homeless people, many of whom have been living on the streets of Seoul since the 1997 Asian financia crisis.
For giggles here is a crop from the portrait resized to the resolution of the M9 (on the long edge, so slightly more on the short edge but no need to split hairs):
Keep in mind this lens (135mm f/3.5 Zeiss Planar) has the same FOV/DOF as a 35/0.9 on 'full frame'. It also cost me $200 and was very dirty/scratched when I received it. I dismantled and cleaned it.
thrice wrote:
Keep in mind this lens (135mm f/3.5 Zeiss Planar) has the same FOV/DOF as a 35/0.9 on 'full frame'. It also cost me $200 and was very dirty/scratched when I received it. I dismantled and cleaned it. Wow!! They sell for 10x (or 15x) that amount. When I got my Tachi I was looking for Zeiss glass but now I'm looking for a bank to rob before I can get one.
I'll have to stick to my Japanese glass before I get some German glass.
thrice wrote:
Thanks Martin, all the info is very useful.
I did increase temperatures slightly and got colour shift, highlights noticeably shifted towards yellow, shadows slightly blue.
That's interesting! I must have gotten the right temperature in the tank by increasing it in the water bath then, because I can't see any significant color shifts in my slides. Probably just pure luck. Though I got very high contrast, so I'll probably send my next few E-6 films off to a lab to compare the results before I continue at home.
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Now for something different! These are shot with an old TLR from Czechoslovakia; the Meopta Flexaret...
Morfeus wrote:
Seems that you need some new lightseals, Martin . Nice images though!
I don't think it's the seals. Look at the straight and sharp transition at the top from the leakage to the exposure by the lens. I can't understand how that happened.
There's a little peeping hole with a red filter on the back for viewing the frame number on the backing paper. Maybe that's where the light got in?
Edit: It could as well be leakage at the lens assembly sides.
Very nice Edward. I noticed a couple of FM'ers talking about these dry cabinets. Here in Manila it is quite hot and humid as well. I may only be here another six months or so and am wondering if it is even worth investing in one of these for this short amount of time.
Gary Clennan wrote:
Very nice Edward. I noticed a couple of FM'ers talking about these dry cabinets. Here in Manila it is quite hot and humid as well. I may only be here another six months or so and am wondering if it is even worth investing in one of these for this short amount of time.
Thank you Gary!
My cabinet only cost around 200$ and it has 40L capacity. I am currently fitting in 3 camera bodies and 4 large ZA lenses as well as filters and other accessories. It still has space for more. At one time, I had 13 Contax lenses and 3 bodies in there.
It only takes 3 days for fungus to start growing so I would say it is a good investment.
Makten wrote:
I don't think it's the seals. Look at the straight and sharp transition at the top from the leakage to the exposure by the lens. I can't understand how that happened.
There's a little peeping hole with a red filter on the back for viewing the frame number on the backing paper. Maybe that's where the light got in?
Edit: It could as well be leakage at the lens assembly sides.
I am not sure Martin, but I had light leaks that looked exactly like that in the past. It was wether a bent film door (on 35mm), light seals or the film that was not rolled tight enough.
edwardkaraa wrote:
Here are two recent scans. I'm enjoying shooting film again and my A900 has been sitting in the dry cabinet for several weeks. I have to work on my scanning technique with my el cheapo scanner though.
those scans look very good to me, the colors in the first shots are really nice. Did you apply any sharpening in post? Be sure to avoid USM with the scanning software though.