Post your recent film shots!
p.1592 #4Post your recent film shots!
Ineound wrote:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940435273_53fcb9eb34_b.jpg
Medival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100
That image has a very heavy cyan cast. Have you tried negativelabpro?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940435273_53fcb9eb34_b.jpg
Medival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100
That image has a very heavy cyan cast. Have you tried negativelabpro?
Nov 22, 2025 at 09:04 PM
p.1592 #7Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Samsung AF Slim, Fojak 400, two image merge in LR
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940029492_193226186e_o.jpg
Wow, as good as an X-pan!
Samsung AF Slim, Fojak 400, two image merge in LR
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940029492_193226186e_o.jpg
Wow, as good as an X-pan!
Nov 22, 2025 at 11:56 PM
p.1592 #8Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Medival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100That image has a very heavy cyan cast. Have you tried negativelabpro?
NLP only works with Adobe LR, which I am not supporting anymore. It can be quite easily corrected in Darktable, but is of course more manual than with either NLP or Smartconvert
Ineound wrote
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940435273_53fcb9eb34_b.jpgMedival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100
NLP only works with Adobe LR, which I am not supporting anymore. It can be quite easily corrected in Darktable, but is of course more manual than with either NLP or Smartconvert
Nov 23, 2025 at 01:54 AM
p.1592 #9Post your recent film shots!
OregonSun wrote:
Acros II
MC Macro Revuenon 28mm f/2.8
Fujica ST705
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54941033290_29340d2630_c.jpg
Love the edge smearing!
Acros II
MC Macro Revuenon 28mm f/2.8
Fujica ST705
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54941033290_29340d2630_c.jpg
Love the edge smearing!
Nov 23, 2025 at 02:44 AM
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p.1592 #11Post your recent film shots!
Ineound wrote:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940435273_53fcb9eb34_b.jpg
Medival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100
If you want to share the RAW file I could test and share some settings in Smartconvert. Shouldn't come out with a cyan cast like that, something seems off.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940435273_53fcb9eb34_b.jpg
Medival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100
If you want to share the RAW file I could test and share some settings in Smartconvert. Shouldn't come out with a cyan cast like that, something seems off.
Nov 23, 2025 at 07:02 AM
p.1592 #12Post your recent film shots!
lifeandmylens wrote:
Arca Swiss 4x5
Portra 160
I like all your stuff but this one really stands out!
Arca Swiss 4x5
Portra 160
I like all your stuff but this one really stands out!
Nov 23, 2025 at 09:04 AM
p.1592 #13Post your recent film shots!
brick33308 wrote:
Portra 160I like all your stuff but this one really stands out!
Thanks!
lifeandmylens wrote
Arca Swiss 4x5Portra 160
Thanks!
Nov 23, 2025 at 09:51 AM
p.1592 #14Post your recent film shots!
fjablo wrote:
Medival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100If you want to share the RAW file I could test and share some settings in Smartconvert. Shouldn't come out with a cyan cast like that, something seems off.
Appreciate the offer! Smartconvert does a good job w/o a color cast, the above was Darktable with Negadoctor. But I have adjusted the workflow now to Smartconvert conversion with Darktable editing, which works good. Will share something later tonight
Ineound wrote
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940435273_53fcb9eb34_b.jpgMedival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100
Appreciate the offer! Smartconvert does a good job w/o a color cast, the above was Darktable with Negadoctor. But I have adjusted the workflow now to Smartconvert conversion with Darktable editing, which works good. Will share something later tonight
Nov 23, 2025 at 10:11 AM
p.1592 #15Post your recent film shots!
Comparison of LR photo merging.
The first image is using "Fill edges" i.e fill in the blank missing areas which were not in either image.
The second is using "Auto crop" where it crops out any part of the auto merge that does not have image.
If you look at the "Fill edges" (the top) image, you can see that there are weird cloning artefacts in the middle top, and also on the bottom right. The second cropped image is much narrower because there was a lot in the top and bottom part of the merge that was empty.
If you are intentional from the very beginning when you actually take the pics to merge in LR, you can make these merge much more seamlessly. I wasn't, it was only as an afterthought that I wondered how it would look!
The first image is using "Fill edges" i.e fill in the blank missing areas which were not in either image.
The second is using "Auto crop" where it crops out any part of the auto merge that does not have image.
If you look at the "Fill edges" (the top) image, you can see that there are weird cloning artefacts in the middle top, and also on the bottom right. The second cropped image is much narrower because there was a lot in the top and bottom part of the merge that was empty.
If you are intentional from the very beginning when you actually take the pics to merge in LR, you can make these merge much more seamlessly. I wasn't, it was only as an afterthought that I wondered how it would look!
Nov 23, 2025 at 11:58 AM
p.1592 #17Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Comparison of LR photo merging.
The first image is using "Fill edges" i.e fill in the blank missing areas which were not in either image.
The second is using "Auto crop" where it crops out any part of the auto merge that does not have image.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940029492_193226186e_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54942258974_62c4d578ba_o.jpg
If you look at the "Fill edges" (the top) image, you can see that there are weird cloning artefacts in the middle top, and also on the bottom right. The second cropped image is much narrower because there was a lot in the top and bottom part of the merge that was empty.
If you are intentional from...Show more →
I like the more natural look of the cropped image. It's closer to what you would expect from an X-Pan or a Fuji TX-1.
There's a project for you. Thake some with the Fuji and assemble some in LR for comparison.
Comparison of LR photo merging.
The first image is using "Fill edges" i.e fill in the blank missing areas which were not in either image.
The second is using "Auto crop" where it crops out any part of the auto merge that does not have image.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940029492_193226186e_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54942258974_62c4d578ba_o.jpg
If you look at the "Fill edges" (the top) image, you can see that there are weird cloning artefacts in the middle top, and also on the bottom right. The second cropped image is much narrower because there was a lot in the top and bottom part of the merge that was empty.
If you are intentional from...Show more →
I like the more natural look of the cropped image. It's closer to what you would expect from an X-Pan or a Fuji TX-1.
There's a project for you. Thake some with the Fuji and assemble some in LR for comparison.
Nov 23, 2025 at 12:16 PM
p.1592 #18Post your recent film shots!
Ineound wrote:
Medival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100If you want to share the RAW file I could test and share some settings in Smartconvert. Shouldn't come out with a cyan cast like that, something seems off.Appreciate the offer! Smartconvert does a good job w/o a color cast, the above was Darktable with Negadoctor. But I have adjusted the workflow now to Smartconvert conversion with Darktable editing, which works good. Will share something later tonight
Neuruppin by Ineound, auf Flickr
This one is Smartconvert with Darktable editing. Seems to emerge as my favourite workflow.
Also this was shot with the Brightin Star 28mm F2.8. Incredible, unbelievable small. Great quality stopped down for my purposes. The Pentax SMC 28mm F2.8 is not that much larger, but of course the mirror adds to the heft.
Leica M4P | Brightin Star 28mm F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100 | Valoi35 Easy | TTartisan 40mm F2.8 Macro | Smartconvert
fjablo wrote
Ineound wrote
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940435273_53fcb9eb34_b.jpgMedival by Ineound, auf Flickr
I am still working on finding the best way to convert my negatives. For scanning Valoi35 Easy is great with the TTartisan 40mm Macro. Smartconvert is fast and convinient, but looses out on highlight retention and flexibility. On1 Raw is good, but getting colors and contrast right is sometimes tricky. Darktable is in general my preferred choice, but I need to get used to Negadoctor but works better without scene referred modes is seems...
Leica M4P | 90mm Thin Elmarit F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100
Neuruppin by Ineound, auf Flickr
This one is Smartconvert with Darktable editing. Seems to emerge as my favourite workflow.
Also this was shot with the Brightin Star 28mm F2.8. Incredible, unbelievable small. Great quality stopped down for my purposes. The Pentax SMC 28mm F2.8 is not that much larger, but of course the mirror adds to the heft.
Leica M4P | Brightin Star 28mm F2.8 | Kodak ProImage 100 | Valoi35 Easy | TTartisan 40mm F2.8 Macro | Smartconvert
Nov 23, 2025 at 12:51 PM
p.1592 #19Post your recent film shots!
madNbad wrote:
The first image is using "Fill edges" i.e fill in the blank missing areas which were not in either image.
The second is using "Auto crop" where it crops out any part of the auto merge that does not have image.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940029492_193226186e_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54942258974_62c4d578ba_o.jpg
If you look at the "Fill edges" (the top) image, you can see that there are weird cloning artefacts in the middle top, and also on the bottom right. The second cropped image is much narrower because there was a lot in the top and bottom part of the merge that was empty.
If you are intentional from the very beginning when you actually take the pics to merge in LR, you can make these merge much more seamlessly. I wasn't, it was only as an afterthought that I wondered how it would look!I like the more natural look of the cropped image. It's closer to what you would expect from an X-Pan or a Fuji TX-1.
There's a project for you. Thake some with the Fuji and assemble some in LR for comparison.
That would be interesting. Of note LR has really improved their merge functionality as years past you will see a distinct border at the join. Here I still see it if I look closely, but that is more of a fault of the camera - Samsung AF Slim - which can heavily vignette the image. So when you have two vignetted images merge, it is hard to avoid that seam - even though LR has done a remarkably good job IMO.
Desmolicious wrote
Comparison of LR photo merging.The first image is using "Fill edges" i.e fill in the blank missing areas which were not in either image.
The second is using "Auto crop" where it crops out any part of the auto merge that does not have image.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54940029492_193226186e_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54942258974_62c4d578ba_o.jpg
If you look at the "Fill edges" (the top) image, you can see that there are weird cloning artefacts in the middle top, and also on the bottom right. The second cropped image is much narrower because there was a lot in the top and bottom part of the merge that was empty.
If you are intentional from the very beginning when you actually take the pics to merge in LR, you can make these merge much more seamlessly. I wasn't, it was only as an afterthought that I wondered how it would look!
There's a project for you. Thake some with the Fuji and assemble some in LR for comparison.
That would be interesting. Of note LR has really improved their merge functionality as years past you will see a distinct border at the join. Here I still see it if I look closely, but that is more of a fault of the camera - Samsung AF Slim - which can heavily vignette the image. So when you have two vignetted images merge, it is hard to avoid that seam - even though LR has done a remarkably good job IMO.
Nov 23, 2025 at 01:05 PM
