Post your recent film shots!
p.1584 #1Post your recent film shots!
Nikon FM2n, AI Nikkor 50mm f/1.8S, Kentmere Pan 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.
2024.10.14 Roll #366-09008-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
2024.10.14 Roll #366-09008-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
Nov 02, 2025 at 11:00 PM
p.1584 #3Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
M6, 35 FLE, Fojak 200
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897860716_54c65ef265_b.jpg
Time to cut back on the Ozempic.
Nov 03, 2025 at 01:17 AM
p.1584 #4Post your recent film shots!
James Markus wrote:
Thanks. I was a bit anxious if anything would come out while mixing 10ml (less than a tablespoon) of Rodinal into 990ml of water (a little more than a quart). It looked like only water.
They are indeed lovely, though a lot grainier than what I usually see from stand development in Rodinal; I looked up the film and see that it's ISO 640, which probably explains it. Did you do it at 20°C or 18°C? I haven't noticed a difference with slower films, but if this roll was Paul then maybe you could develop Reinhold the same way but at a different temp to see if it makes a difference in the grain.
Thanks. I was a bit anxious if anything would come out while mixing 10ml (less than a tablespoon) of Rodinal into 990ml of water (a little more than a quart). It looked like only water.
They are indeed lovely, though a lot grainier than what I usually see from stand development in Rodinal; I looked up the film and see that it's ISO 640, which probably explains it. Did you do it at 20°C or 18°C? I haven't noticed a difference with slower films, but if this roll was Paul then maybe you could develop Reinhold the same way but at a different temp to see if it makes a difference in the grain.
Nov 03, 2025 at 02:01 AM
p.1584 #5Post your recent film shots!
Pumpkins. Chamonix 45f2 + Zeiss 135/3.5
Nov 03, 2025 at 06:53 AM
p.1584 #6Post your recent film shots!
bjhurley wrote:
They are indeed lovely, though a lot grainier than what I usually see from stand development in Rodinal; I looked up the film and see that it's ISO 640, which probably explains it. Did you do it at 20°C or 18°C? I haven't noticed a difference with slower films, but if this roll was Paul then maybe you could develop Reinhold the same way but at a different temp to see if it makes a difference in the grain.
Brad, Development was at 20C or 68F. I looked at this comparison that someone here, I thought, provided.
http://www.alexluyckx.com/blog/2021/12/13/film-review-blog-no-78-rollei-paul-reinhold/
The Rollei Supergrain developer was $35 per 500 ml gave the best grain at 640 iso - imo, but contrast was too high and it wasn't worth the price difference. His Rodinal 1:100 stand developing examples are right in line with what I got, and match his balanced gradations and contrast. Another link on Alex's comparison blog post led to using "Blazinal" - which is another companies copy of the original Agfa Rodinal, but used at 1:25 or 1:50 dilution. The examples on that link looked a bit better for grain, but lost a touch of smoother gradations - imo. Here are some grape leaf shots where I hoped to explore the contrast smoothing of stand development. I gathered from my reading that digging details out of highlights without blocking up the shadows was the original motive for the standing development process. I'm amazed it works so well. Same roll, camera lens and f-stop as the others. Just faster shutter speeds.
James Markus wrote
Thanks. I was a bit anxious if anything would come out while mixing 10ml (less than a tablespoon) of Rodinal into 990ml of water (a little more than a quart). It looked like only water.Brad, Development was at 20C or 68F. I looked at this comparison that someone here, I thought, provided.
http://www.alexluyckx.com/blog/2021/12/13/film-review-blog-no-78-rollei-paul-reinhold/
The Rollei Supergrain developer was $35 per 500 ml gave the best grain at 640 iso - imo, but contrast was too high and it wasn't worth the price difference. His Rodinal 1:100 stand developing examples are right in line with what I got, and match his balanced gradations and contrast. Another link on Alex's comparison blog post led to using "Blazinal" - which is another companies copy of the original Agfa Rodinal, but used at 1:25 or 1:50 dilution. The examples on that link looked a bit better for grain, but lost a touch of smoother gradations - imo. Here are some grape leaf shots where I hoped to explore the contrast smoothing of stand development. I gathered from my reading that digging details out of highlights without blocking up the shadows was the original motive for the standing development process. I'm amazed it works so well. Same roll, camera lens and f-stop as the others. Just faster shutter speeds.
Nov 03, 2025 at 10:13 AM
p.1584 #7Post your recent film shots!
M2 + Tri-x 400
The 1st is one of my favorite of this year and I'm so grad it's B&W.
( thank you for this gentleman allowed me to take couple photos during his cigarette break )
The 1st is one of my favorite of this year and I'm so grad it's B&W.
( thank you for this gentleman allowed me to take couple photos during his cigarette break )
Nov 03, 2025 at 10:28 AM
p.1584 #8Post your recent film shots!
James Markus wrote:
I gathered from my reading that digging details out of highlights without blocking up the shadows was the original motive for the standing development process. I'm amazed it works so well. Same roll, camera lens and f-stop as the others. Just faster shutter speeds.
Yep, that's been my experience at least. Semi-stand development has saved me in cases where I wasn't sure I nailed exposure or was using a film that is often described as contrasty. If the resulting negatives are not contrasty enough I can always increase contrast in post, but my goal is usually to capture as much detail in the highlights and shadows as possible so I can then adjust the digital file to my liking. I'm not sure if it would work so well for wet-darkroom prints, but I think it's a good approach when you're scanning.
Usually I've found semi-stand with Rodinal at 1:100 results in finer grain than I get with Rodinal at higher ratios (e.g., 1:50 or 1:25), but you still get all the sharpness. I've seen some people claim that the finer grain is due to the weaker dilution and others claim that it's due to the lower amount of agitation, but whatever, it just works!
I gathered from my reading that digging details out of highlights without blocking up the shadows was the original motive for the standing development process. I'm amazed it works so well. Same roll, camera lens and f-stop as the others. Just faster shutter speeds.
Yep, that's been my experience at least. Semi-stand development has saved me in cases where I wasn't sure I nailed exposure or was using a film that is often described as contrasty. If the resulting negatives are not contrasty enough I can always increase contrast in post, but my goal is usually to capture as much detail in the highlights and shadows as possible so I can then adjust the digital file to my liking. I'm not sure if it would work so well for wet-darkroom prints, but I think it's a good approach when you're scanning.
Usually I've found semi-stand with Rodinal at 1:100 results in finer grain than I get with Rodinal at higher ratios (e.g., 1:50 or 1:25), but you still get all the sharpness. I've seen some people claim that the finer grain is due to the weaker dilution and others claim that it's due to the lower amount of agitation, but whatever, it just works!
Nov 03, 2025 at 11:02 AM
p.1584 #9Post your recent film shots!
bjhurley wrote:
Yep, that's been my experience at least. Semi-stand development has saved me in cases where I wasn't sure I nailed exposure or was using a film that is often described as contrasty. If the resulting negatives are not contrasty enough I can always increase contrast in post, but my goal is usually to capture as much detail in the highlights and shadows as possible so I can then adjust the digital file to my liking. I'm not sure if it would work so well for wet-darkroom prints, but I think it's a good approach when you're scanning.
Usually I've found semi-stand...Show more →
I haven't used stand development with Rodinal but use 1:50 regularly. Thirty seconds of gentle agitation to start and a couple of inversions every minute. The grain is fairly fine and good contrast. I still have about 50ml of Adox Rodinal in the bottle. When that's gone, it'll be Bellini RDL. RDL is Rodinal with an added sulfite that helps boost shadow detail. The same Rodinal rules apply, pay the speed tax and don't agitate very much.
James Markus wrote
I gathered from my reading that digging details out of highlights without blocking up the shadows was the original motive for the standing development process. I'm amazed it works so well. Same roll, camera lens and f-stop as the others. Just faster shutter speeds.Usually I've found semi-stand...Show more →
I haven't used stand development with Rodinal but use 1:50 regularly. Thirty seconds of gentle agitation to start and a couple of inversions every minute. The grain is fairly fine and good contrast. I still have about 50ml of Adox Rodinal in the bottle. When that's gone, it'll be Bellini RDL. RDL is Rodinal with an added sulfite that helps boost shadow detail. The same Rodinal rules apply, pay the speed tax and don't agitate very much.
Nov 03, 2025 at 11:37 AM
p.1584 #10Post your recent film shots!
When I did a lot of stand development it was the first 30 seconds of inversions and then nothing except an inversion in the mid-way mark, about 30 minutes in.
Example on FP4+ in 120.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VJs13EWJZLtkazYN8
Example on FP4+ in 120.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VJs13EWJZLtkazYN8
Nov 03, 2025 at 12:11 PM
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p.1584 #17Post your recent film shots!
Museum of Pop Culture and Space Needle, Seattle, Washington.
Nikon FM2n, AI Nikkor 50mm f/1.8S, Kentmere Pan 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.
2024.11.09 Roll #367-09043-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
Nikon FM2n, AI Nikkor 50mm f/1.8S, Kentmere Pan 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.
2024.11.09 Roll #367-09043-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
Nov 03, 2025 at 09:00 PM
p.1584 #18Post your recent film shots!
Portra 400. Mamiya 645. Sekor 80mm f/2.8. Drives me nuts that I somehow clipped the lamp on the top left.
Nov 03, 2025 at 10:45 PM
p.1584 #19Post your recent film shots!
old-gregg wrote:
https://d3ue2m1ika9dfn.cloudfront.net/fm/the-paint-chip.jpg
Portra 400. Mamiya 645. Sekor 80mm f/2.8. Drives me nuts that I somehow clipped the lamp on the top left.
That is a shame because the colour matched his mask.
https://d3ue2m1ika9dfn.cloudfront.net/fm/the-paint-chip.jpg
Portra 400. Mamiya 645. Sekor 80mm f/2.8. Drives me nuts that I somehow clipped the lamp on the top left.
That is a shame because the colour matched his mask.
Nov 03, 2025 at 11:10 PM
p.1584 #20Post your recent film shots!
Olympus Pen FT / 40f1.4 / XP2 / Diafine
Mama Goat, Baby Goats. by Henry Beckmeyer, on Flickr
Mama Goat, Baby Goats. by Henry Beckmeyer, on FlickrNov 04, 2025 at 07:34 AM