lifeandmylens wrote:
A dozen or so recent shots from the past few days. Nikon F6 + 28/1.4AFD, 58/1.2AIS, 300/2.8D. 250D, 200T & 500T. Hope everyone is safe!
lifeandmylens wrote:
A dozen or so recent shots from the past few days. Nikon F6 + 28/1.4AFD, 58/1.2AIS, 300/2.8D. 250D, 200T & 500T. Hope everyone is safe!
Are you home developing your ECN2 films? and if so what kit do you use.
madNbad wrote:
Heron,
Are you exposing the Portra at box speed or something less?
I always shoot everything at box speed because I don't see the point of introducing another variable. If I know a film stock needs more light in a given situation, I just overexpose it relative to the meter.
I always use a handheld meter and shoot full manual. Many of my favorite cameras don't have a meter and I started using manual on the ones that do once I realized it was so much easier to use the same meter for every camera, removing another variable from the process.
I use a Sekonic L-408 which has incident and 5 degree spot modes. Once I know the range of the scene, I pick an exposure based on subject/intent, erring on the side of overexposure for negative and underexposure for positive films. I use incident mode most of the time.
The best thing is that after a while using one meter and manually setting exposure, I've started to just know the right settings for different light
lifeandmylens wrote:
A dozen or so recent shots from the past few days. Nikon F6 + 28/1.4AFD, 58/1.2AIS, 300/2.8D. 250D, 200T & 500T. Hope everyone is safe!
OregonSun wrote:
I always shoot everything at box speed because I don't see the point of introducing another variable. If I know a film stock needs more light in a given situation, I just overexpose it relative to the meter.
I always use a handheld meter and shoot full manual. Many of my favorite cameras don't have a meter and I started using manual on the ones that do once I realized it was so much easier to use the same meter for every camera, removing another variable from the process.
I use a Sekonic L-408 which has incident and 5 degree spot modes. Once I know the range of the scene, I pick an exposure based on subject/intent, erring on the side of overexposure for negative and underexposure for positive films. I use incident mode most of the time.
The best thing is that after a while using one meter and manually setting exposure, I've started to just know the right settings for different light ...Show more →
Thanks! I haven't owned a camera with a meter since 2018. The current rotation is a Sekonic 308X with the M cameras and a Gossen Digisix with the Kodak Retinas. Both of these are mostly used in incident mode. I bought the Gossen after returning from Paris where I used a Reveni cube. As much as I love Matt, there were times that incident metering would have been more appropriate, I tend to use filters. With B&W it's either the long time #8 yellow (022) or the recent favorite #15 yellow,
When we went to Ashland in September, it was Filc Film Aurora 800 and a ND2 to knock it down to ISO 400. The results were really good. I was looking at the Portra 800 because I want to take another trip to the carousel museum in Albany. There's a lot of great stuff but not quite enough light. Thanks for the tip.
Actually went through the folders of Portra 800 I shot last year, and found that probably the thing is just that where I live / in the city we just rarely have those nice, deep & "healthy" greens to begin with 💁♂️
OregonSun wrote:
I always shoot everything at box speed because I don't see the point of introducing another variable.
That was my approach as well for the longest time, then switched to just shooting everything (color negative, that is) at +1 at some point.
Still keeping it simple, so to speak, but my images look a bit better now in general I'd say.
Tina Kino wrote:
That was my approach as well for the longest time, then switched to just shooting everything (color negative, that is) at +1 at some point.
Still keeping it simple, so to speak, but my images look a bit better now in general I'd say.
Yeah, I mostly overexpose color negative film too, I just don't use ISO adhustment to do it.
