Post your recent film shots!
p.1359 #1Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Neue M6, 35 FLE, Fojak 200
The 35 FLE is, umm, not very flare resistant. But what could you expect from a lens that only costs $5000?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166591017_5f8bbd9a7a_b.jpg
Cine lenses are often desired for the their flaring characteristics...but with those, the DP/camera operator is actually viewing through the lens.
For a rangefinder lens on a rangefinder camera (one without live view) this kind of flaring can be rough. This looks good though, and doesn't obscure the subject.
It's as though Leica functions under the notion that the correct amount of AR coating is the bare minimum - like, something is lost with more flare resistance. I wish that Voigtlander gave us the option of single coating on more of their lenses...
Neue M6, 35 FLE, Fojak 200
The 35 FLE is, umm, not very flare resistant. But what could you expect from a lens that only costs $5000?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166591017_5f8bbd9a7a_b.jpg
Cine lenses are often desired for the their flaring characteristics...but with those, the DP/camera operator is actually viewing through the lens.
For a rangefinder lens on a rangefinder camera (one without live view) this kind of flaring can be rough. This looks good though, and doesn't obscure the subject.
It's as though Leica functions under the notion that the correct amount of AR coating is the bare minimum - like, something is lost with more flare resistance. I wish that Voigtlander gave us the option of single coating on more of their lenses...
Nov 27, 2024 at 01:14 PM
p.1359 #2Post your recent film shots!
_jim_ wrote:
madNbad wrote
Here's my dangerous looking wife that TSA need to inspect:Andie at the ER in Amsterdam
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54168905845_7ff63b5c5b_b.jpg
Also, sorry to your wife. I am sure that she didn't imagine her European vacation would be so eventful.
The EU is trying to minimize the use of plastic, so she got an old school plaster cast. On the upside, between the doctor coming to the hotel and the emergency room visit, our total cost was 600 Euros.
Paris was great and fortunately we were at a full service hotel in Amsterdam so we only had to roll down to the restaurant.
Nov 27, 2024 at 01:16 PM
p.1359 #3Post your recent film shots!
madNbad wrote:
The 35 FLE is, umm, not very flare resistant. But what could you expect from a lens that only costs $5000?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166591017_5f8bbd9a7a_b.jpgDon’t you own $400 Voigtlander that has better flare resistance?
The 35mm 1.4 Nokton flares in an even more attractive manner! (seriously).
Desmolicious wrote
Neue M6, 35 FLE, Fojak 200The 35 FLE is, umm, not very flare resistant. But what could you expect from a lens that only costs $5000?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166591017_5f8bbd9a7a_b.jpg
The 35mm 1.4 Nokton flares in an even more attractive manner! (seriously).
Nov 27, 2024 at 01:17 PM
p.1359 #4Post your recent film shots!
_jim_ wrote:
madNbad wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Neue M6, 35 FLE, Fojak 200The 35 FLE is, umm, not very flare resistant. But what could you expect from a lens that only costs $5000?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166591017_5f8bbd9a7a_b.jpg
I love my SC and use it more than any other lens.
P.S. Enjoy your visit to the Philadelphia area, I have family there.
Nov 27, 2024 at 01:21 PM
p.1359 #5Post your recent film shots!
_jim_ wrote:
For a rangefinder lens on a rangefinder camera (one without live view) this kind of flaring can be rough. This looks good though, and doesn't obscure the subject.
I've shot so much on digital (Sony) with my Canon 50/1.4 LTM that I can predict pretty well where the flares will fall, so even when I'm shooting my Canon P I have fairly good luck with flare placement. And the Canon P has a metal shutter so I'm less worried about burning holes in it than I am with my Leica. I think Huss said the risk of hole-burning is greatest when the aperture is wide open but I can never remember so my solution is that I never shoot my Leica into the sun (and I keep it in a bag when not shooting to avoid it accidentally pointing toward the sun when I'm walking around with it; I don't use lens caps except for storage).
Here's the flare from the Canon 50/1.4 LTM on Canon P, Flic Film Aurora 800:
A certain flare by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
For a rangefinder lens on a rangefinder camera (one without live view) this kind of flaring can be rough. This looks good though, and doesn't obscure the subject.
I've shot so much on digital (Sony) with my Canon 50/1.4 LTM that I can predict pretty well where the flares will fall, so even when I'm shooting my Canon P I have fairly good luck with flare placement. And the Canon P has a metal shutter so I'm less worried about burning holes in it than I am with my Leica. I think Huss said the risk of hole-burning is greatest when the aperture is wide open but I can never remember so my solution is that I never shoot my Leica into the sun (and I keep it in a bag when not shooting to avoid it accidentally pointing toward the sun when I'm walking around with it; I don't use lens caps except for storage).
Here's the flare from the Canon 50/1.4 LTM on Canon P, Flic Film Aurora 800:
A certain flare by Brad Hurley, on FlickrNov 27, 2024 at 01:44 PM
p.1359 #6Post your recent film shots!
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp as my Zeiss 35mm f/1.4 ZM...albeit 1/3 of a stop slower). Unfortunately, the left side of the frame is a bit softer. So...I have this knowledge now. It's in my head. I mostly shoot film. On HP5+, I have no complaints about the apparent lack of sharpness on the left side of the frame. In so far as I can tell, it's just not visible. Obviously, the Sony A7RII resolves waaaaay more detail than grainy film and that's the only time I see the softness. This 'problem' isn't really a problem as I rarely shoot digital. So why can't I just enjoy the lens? I am fairly certain that I am outside of the return period...so I tempted to buy another one and hope for better centering. Am I crazy?
Tyler by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
Jenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
Jenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
Jenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp as my Zeiss 35mm f/1.4 ZM...albeit 1/3 of a stop slower). Unfortunately, the left side of the frame is a bit softer. So...I have this knowledge now. It's in my head. I mostly shoot film. On HP5+, I have no complaints about the apparent lack of sharpness on the left side of the frame. In so far as I can tell, it's just not visible. Obviously, the Sony A7RII resolves waaaaay more detail than grainy film and that's the only time I see the softness. This 'problem' isn't really a problem as I rarely shoot digital. So why can't I just enjoy the lens? I am fairly certain that I am outside of the return period...so I tempted to buy another one and hope for better centering. Am I crazy?
Tyler by Jim Fischer, on FlickrJenny by Jim Fischer, on FlickrJenny by Jim Fischer, on FlickrJenny by Jim Fischer, on FlickrNov 27, 2024 at 01:53 PM
p.1359 #7Post your recent film shots!
_jim_ wrote:
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
I never do because it doesn't matter to me; I don't notice it even on digital and I think the only people who would are other photographers. But I'm planning to sell some lenses next year and should probably test them for centering just because some people want to know whether a lens is centered before they buy it. Mostly people here on the FM forum, where centering is a thing; I've never been asked about it in the past with the few lenses I've sold.
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
I never do because it doesn't matter to me; I don't notice it even on digital and I think the only people who would are other photographers. But I'm planning to sell some lenses next year and should probably test them for centering just because some people want to know whether a lens is centered before they buy it. Mostly people here on the FM forum, where centering is a thing; I've never been asked about it in the past with the few lenses I've sold.
Nov 27, 2024 at 02:01 PM
p.1359 #8Post your recent film shots!
madNbad wrote:
The 35 FLE is, umm, not very flare resistant. But what could you expect from a lens that only costs $5000?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166591017_5f8bbd9a7a_b.jpgDon’t you own $400 Voigtlander that has better flare resistance?
I fail to see your point...
Actually I do think this flare is funky cool. Problem is one expects funky cool from a $300 lens, not an FLE.
I should dust off my Zeiss Distagon 35 and start using that when the sun gets low.
Desmolicious wrote
Neue M6, 35 FLE, Fojak 200The 35 FLE is, umm, not very flare resistant. But what could you expect from a lens that only costs $5000?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166591017_5f8bbd9a7a_b.jpg
I fail to see your point...
Actually I do think this flare is funky cool. Problem is one expects funky cool from a $300 lens, not an FLE.
I should dust off my Zeiss Distagon 35 and start using that when the sun gets low.
Nov 27, 2024 at 02:05 PM
p.1359 #9Post your recent film shots!
bjhurley wrote:
I've shot so much on digital (Sony) with my Canon 50/1.4 LTM that I can predict pretty well where the flares will fall, so even when I'm shooting my Canon P I have fairly good luck with flare placement. And the Canon P has a metal shutter so I'm less worried about burning holes in it than I am with my Leica. I think Huss said the risk of hole-burning is greatest when the aperture is wide open but I can never remember so my solution is that I never shoot my Leica into the sun (and I keep it...Show more →
To prevent shutter burn, I always carry my camera with the lens set to min focus distance in bright sunshine as I never use a lens cap. Those just fall off, and the Leica ones cost as much as an entire TTArtisans lens... Also the lens is already stopped down to shooting aperture - again minimizing the risk as shutter burn happens wide open and at infinity.
I actually do like the flare from the FLE, but would prefer if it was a cheaper lens that did this! At least it does not have that veiling flare when the light source is in the frame - which is why I deliberately make sure it is in the frame. And it is easy to predict where the flare would be. If the light source is upper dead center, the flare is lower dead center. Upper right? Lower left etc.
_jim_ wrote
For a rangefinder lens on a rangefinder camera (one without live view) this kind of flaring can be rough. This looks good though, and doesn't obscure the subject.To prevent shutter burn, I always carry my camera with the lens set to min focus distance in bright sunshine as I never use a lens cap. Those just fall off, and the Leica ones cost as much as an entire TTArtisans lens... Also the lens is already stopped down to shooting aperture - again minimizing the risk as shutter burn happens wide open and at infinity.
I actually do like the flare from the FLE, but would prefer if it was a cheaper lens that did this! At least it does not have that veiling flare when the light source is in the frame - which is why I deliberately make sure it is in the frame. And it is easy to predict where the flare would be. If the light source is upper dead center, the flare is lower dead center. Upper right? Lower left etc.
Nov 27, 2024 at 02:11 PM
p.1359 #10Post your recent film shots!
_jim_ wrote:
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp...Show more →
I've never checked. And have so far lived a happy life.
If I buy a used lens the only thing I check for is fungus, scratches, haze, serious dust.
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp...Show more →
I've never checked. And have so far lived a happy life.
If I buy a used lens the only thing I check for is fungus, scratches, haze, serious dust.
Nov 27, 2024 at 02:13 PM
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p.1359 #12Post your recent film shots!
_jim_ wrote:
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp...Show more →
I just checked my Reto and the lens is definitely in the center of the camera.
Nov 27, 2024 at 02:24 PM
p.1359 #13Post your recent film shots!
OffTrail wrote:
Never shot as wide as a 21 with the F mount ("wided out" at 28mm with the 28mm f/2.8 AI-s, another fave), but I am a big fan of the 50mm f/1.2 AI-s. Haven't shot it much on film (somehow keep picking up the M-A instead of the F2), but historically it has been a favourite lens on digital Nikons. Has some tendency to flare in interesting ways, at f/2 is an extremely good performer, and is totally serviceable wide open when needed. Only downside is size/weight. Has basically the same footprint as a Noct-NIKKOR 58 f/1.2 but without the corner coma performance, but also at about an order of magnitude less expensive. Would not hesitate to recommend.---------------------------------------------
I love the 20mm f/4 pre-ai lens. It's small and sharp.Thanks both, made offers on both the 20/4 and 50/1.2 ais on eBay and got both of them for a reasonable price. My F kit will be complete paired with the 28/2 ais and 105/2.5 ais.That's going to be a solid kit! The 28 and 105 are obviously classics, but the 20 f/4 is also a super enjoyable little lens.
This is the 20 on the F6, P3200
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54168565835_c88d335034_o.jpg
Nice shots thanks!
lifeandmylens wrote
philipj wrote
lifeandmylens wrote
Same as above, but with mom in the picture. Any recs for 21mm & 50mm lenses on the F3?_jim_ wrote
lifeandmylens wrote
Same as above, but with mom in the picture. Any recs for 21mm & 50mm lenses on the F3?This is the 20 on the F6, P3200
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54168565835_c88d335034_o.jpg
Nice shots thanks!
Nov 27, 2024 at 02:34 PM
p.1359 #14Post your recent film shots!
madNbad wrote:
_jim_ wrote
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp as my Zeiss 35mm f/1.4 ZM...albeit 1/3 of a stop slower). Unfortunately, the left side of the frame is a bit softer. So...I have this knowledge now. It's in my head. I mostly shoot film. On HP5+, I have no complaints about the apparent lack of sharpness on the left side of the frame. In so far as I can tell, it's just not visible. Obviously, the Sony A7RII resolves waaaaay more detail than grainy film and that's the only time I see the softness. This 'problem' isn't really a problem as I rarely shoot digital. So why can't I just enjoy the lens? I am fairly certain that I am outside of the return period...so I tempted to buy another one and hope for better centering. Am I crazy?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53972093003_1a18a64740_b.jpgTyler by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54157867484_22d8631ee9_b.jpgJenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53818901660_5367635619_b.jpgJenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53884489686_f9d816de61_b.jpgJenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
😂
Nov 27, 2024 at 02:35 PM
p.1359 #15Post your recent film shots!
_jim_ wrote:
Here's a question for the group: anyone had experience with getting the TSA to hand check unlabeled, bulk-loaded film cartridges? My brain says that the blank plastic cassettes will confuse them...which is not particularly generous of me. At any rate, it shouldn't be an issue, right? They'll just do their swab and hand waving and etc, right? Flying in and out of PHL (I'm less worried about PDX TSA. They are generally pretty ok).
I just stick a label over reused metal canisters for my bulk loaded film and have had zero issues with TSA.
Here's a question for the group: anyone had experience with getting the TSA to hand check unlabeled, bulk-loaded film cartridges? My brain says that the blank plastic cassettes will confuse them...which is not particularly generous of me. At any rate, it shouldn't be an issue, right? They'll just do their swab and hand waving and etc, right? Flying in and out of PHL (I'm less worried about PDX TSA. They are generally pretty ok).
I just stick a label over reused metal canisters for my bulk loaded film and have had zero issues with TSA.
Nov 27, 2024 at 02:36 PM
p.1359 #16Post your recent film shots!
_jim_ wrote:
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp...Show more →
I had a 35mm Nikkor (I think it was an f2.8) with the exact same issue. I had shot a large group photo, but the left side wasn't as sharp as the center and right side. I began to disassemble the front element group when it dropped into position (after loosening it it "clunked"). Tightened everything back up and it was gone. Not sure how it had got miss-aligned and locked into the wrong position to begin with, but I am finding that people love to try and fix things themselves without benefit of knowledge or the correct tools. Since then I stupidly sold the f2.0 ai, but picked up a f1.4 ais - which I love. Only one lens out of more than I can count had a de-centered element or group.
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp...Show more →
I had a 35mm Nikkor (I think it was an f2.8) with the exact same issue. I had shot a large group photo, but the left side wasn't as sharp as the center and right side. I began to disassemble the front element group when it dropped into position (after loosening it it "clunked"). Tightened everything back up and it was gone. Not sure how it had got miss-aligned and locked into the wrong position to begin with, but I am finding that people love to try and fix things themselves without benefit of knowledge or the correct tools. Since then I stupidly sold the f2.0 ai, but picked up a f1.4 ais - which I love. Only one lens out of more than I can count had a de-centered element or group.
Nov 27, 2024 at 02:49 PM
p.1359 #17Post your recent film shots!
_jim_ wrote:
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp...Show more →
I've probably owned about 50 lenses, maybe more, over the years. Most of them were second hand. Normally when I get a new lens I'll test it a bit to see how it performs and whether there are any issues. I've only had two that had issues. One was a decentred Fuji 10-24mm that was soft in one corner extending fair way into the frame. Another was a Sigma 10-20mm that had an area on the right side that was a bit softer than the rest of the frame, but still quite useable for many subjects.
Next question for the group: when you get a new lens do you check for centering? I never did before frequenting this forum. I lived my life in blissful ignorance.
35mm is my favorite focal length. I have been searching for my ideal lens. To that end, I bought a used 35mm f/1.5 Nokton a few months back. It is a great size with nearly perfect ergonomics. Contrast is medium-ish and flare resistance is great. Then I checked centering on my sole digital camera - a Sony A7RII. The center and right side of the frame are sharp (as sharp...Show more →
I've probably owned about 50 lenses, maybe more, over the years. Most of them were second hand. Normally when I get a new lens I'll test it a bit to see how it performs and whether there are any issues. I've only had two that had issues. One was a decentred Fuji 10-24mm that was soft in one corner extending fair way into the frame. Another was a Sigma 10-20mm that had an area on the right side that was a bit softer than the rest of the frame, but still quite useable for many subjects.
Nov 27, 2024 at 05:03 PM
p.1359 #18Post your recent film shots!
Hasselblad 503CX
Zeiss 80/2.8 Planar
Kodak Portra 400
Ripe by Graham Gibson, on Flickr
Zeiss 80/2.8 Planar
Kodak Portra 400
Ripe by Graham Gibson, on Flickr
Nov 27, 2024 at 05:13 PM
p.1359 #19Post your recent film shots!
Canon P, Canon 35/1.8 LTM, Fomapan 100
Puddle vision by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
Street puddle by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
Holiday lights by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
In the Métro by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
A gull's world by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
Puddle vision by Brad Hurley, on FlickrStreet puddle by Brad Hurley, on FlickrHoliday lights by Brad Hurley, on FlickrIn the Métro by Brad Hurley, on FlickrA gull's world by Brad Hurley, on FlickrNov 27, 2024 at 05:16 PM
p.1359 #20Post your recent film shots!
I think it was @RustyRus who encouraged me to take the plunge and try some film, so I picked up a Rolleiflex off the boads and just put my first roll of film through it. Mainly just testing out the light meter. Can't wait to play around some more with this thing. Do you all recommend picking up a negative scanner (scanning with a Z8) or just pay for the scans where I get them developed? I kind of lean toward the negative scanner but curious on others experiences.
Rolleiflex 2.8f and Porta 800
Rolleiflex 2.8f and Porta 800
Nov 27, 2024 at 05:47 PM