I have the 580EX flash. Has anyone bought the updated one? How much improvement is this than the 580EX? Do we really need to spend the extra $500 to work with the MarkIII?
That does not make too much sense. I often have to change AF points to correctly focus on the main area. I have often used the entire range of points. I wonder if they can fix this in an update?
Noble Kennamer wrote:
Page 85 of 1DMark3 manual indicates that you must use only the center AF point when using a EF70 - 200 f2.8 or you will get focusing errors. Also when you use an extender and maximum exposure is of f4 or higher you are subject to mis-focusing as focusing points have more limited abilities. Again see manual page 85.
Noble Kennamer wrote:
Questions for Nil and the other sports shooters.
1. Are you going to use center point focus with sports?
Probably. That's what I do now, and I don't immediately see anything about the new camera that would make me change it. I'll experiment with it though, so we'll see.
2. Are you going to use center point focus with horizontal or surround assist point? CFn 8
That's something else I'll have to experiment with. It sounds just like CF17 on the earlier cameras, and personally after considerable experimentation there I leave that one off.
3. Are you going to use AF start button as opposed to camera shutter release button? CFn 6
Yes of course, although I will almost certainly reverse the functions of that button and the AE lock button, as discussed upthread.
I have learned to use the center point with my 20D but this is so much more sophiscated I am not sure what to do. Suggestions would be appreciated it.
I just got my 1DMark3 today and loving it but feeling a little overwhelmed. So much camera.
Just take it a step at a time. It's not nearly as daunting as it first appears. Read the entire manual straight through, twice. Then read it again after using the camera for a few weeks, then once more after a few months. Also read the "Getting the Most Out of Your 1-Series Camera" pdf file mentioned (I think) upthread. Many of the specific settings will be different for the III than what's mentioned there, but most of the concepts will be similar and very helpful.
Nill,
I remember you saying (in one of the threads) to turn the autofocus expansion off for sports. I tried it and yes, I got lot of shots with focus dead on and far more keepers. However, I could not get quick focus lock in the small birds in flight shots (BIG BIRDS NO PROBLEM) . Yesterday, I spent whole day experimenting with Cfn 17(1DMK2N.) and decided that if I am not sure what is coming in the sky, I have to expand the autufocus to 7 points to handle any situation.
Ruhikant
Man, that 3" LCD is gorgeous! (Haven't tried it in daylight yet, though).
Really LOVE being able to set the camera to rotate the vertical images on the PC but NOT on the LCD, too. And it even can do this on old photos taken with the 1D-II . . amazing.
I tried to figure out as much as I could without resorting to the manual. The one thing I simply couldn't figure out was how to get the "silent shutter" (which used to be PF-21 on the 1D-II). Finally had to read the manual. How do you set it? D'oh! Right there on top where you set the drive mode. It's another mode, just like single shot, multi-shot, 10-sec timer, 2-sec timer, etc.
The layout of the menu system is very nice. And the return of the "SET" button on the main dial on the back of the camera is also very neat (especially since you can set it to do one of many different things, depending on your needs).
ruhikant wrote:
Nill,
I remember you saying (in one of the threads) to turn the autofocus expansion off for sports. I tried it and yes, I got lot of shots with focus dead on and far more keepers. However, I could not get quick focus lock in the small birds in flight shots (BIG BIRDS NO PROBLEM) . Yesterday, I spent whole day experimenting with Cfn 17(1DMK2N.) and decided that if I am not sure what is coming in the sky, I have to expand the autufocus to 7 points to handle any situation.
Ruhikant
It all depends on how well you can keep that one itty-bitty AF point centered on your subject. If you're very good at it, then a single AF point is often all you need. But, if you can't quite keep the subject on that small AF point (this problem can be exacerbated by a small subject), adding those surrounding points can help a lot.
prutske wrote:
I now have the error code 99 on all my (canon) lenses...
Also the one which worked fine for 2 days
That's too bad.
Try this (if you haven't already).
In addition to cleaning contacts on the lenses, try wiping down the lens mount on the camera. I would try a cloth with a bit of alcohol on it, followed by a dry cloth (like a lens cleaning cloth). You could probably skip the alcohol part as a first try.
I've had a body once before that I had to do this to in order to avoid ERR 99.
realmunseen wrote:
High Iso Noise Reduction Custom Function (C.Fn 2-2)
cripples your burst capacity even further from >99 to ~14.
No free lunch with this camera, so if you need the burst capacity
than reduce noise in post.
If you're shooting RAW, I'd turn that off. However, for JPG, I'd leave it on. JMHO
prutske,
Once, I had the same problem with 5D with all the lens, I tried all the possible methods, but all failed. Then, I turn the sensor cleaning on (open the mirror box) and when I turn the process off , I heard very nice mirror slap sound and problem was solved. Your problem could be a completely different problem though.
Ruhikant
Regarding the *ERR* isssue, in addition to removing the main battery, also pull the date/time backup battery. Go to page 188 of the manual to locate this battery, it's a small coin cell type.
I'd wait 5 minutes, flip the on/off switch a couple times, before reinstalling batteries.
I just went back to the shop to try out two other remedies to solve the error 99 code.
I formatted my new 2G Sandisk, and I did a manual sensor cleaning.
I put the lens back on and...it worked fine for 30 seconds, and then ...bang. The mirror seemed to get stuck.
i did think about changing the small battery, but then I said : all this should not happen to a 4.000 EUR camera. It is back to canon now. I expect for a serious remedy.
by the way, there is a whole forum on this 99-code in canons. This makes me a bit sad...though my D60 and 10D have worked for years without any problem. And they still do. Good that I still have them.
DavidP wrote:
Got mine yesterday. #1 of 2, that is.
Man, that 3" LCD is gorgeous! (Haven't tried it in daylight yet, though).
Really LOVE being able to set the camera to rotate the vertical images on the PC but NOT on the LCD, too. And it even can do this on old photos taken with the 1D-II . . amazing.
I tried to figure out as much as I could without resorting to the manual. The one thing I simply couldn't figure out was how to get the "silent shutter" (which used to be PF-21 on the 1D-II). Finally had to read the manual. How do you set it? D'oh! Right there on top where you set the drive mode. It's another mode, just like single shot, multi-shot, 10-sec timer, 2-sec timer, etc.
The layout of the menu system is very nice. And the return of the "SET" button on the main dial on the back of the camera is also very neat (especially since you can set it to do one of many different things, depending on your needs).
David the silent shutter is accesible on camera it is one of your shooting modes and is denoted with an s the modes are as follow s,h, 2, 10 they are accesible from the top button on the top left side of your camera called AF drive you will need to use the big wheel on hte back to select the shooting mode you want
Bruce Sawle wrote:
David the silent shutter is accesible on camera it is one of your shooting modes and is denoted with an s the modes are as follow s,h, 2, 10 they are accesible from the top button on the top left side of your camera called AF drive you will need to use the big wheel on hte back to select the shooting mode you want
Thanks . . but if you read my post again, you'll se that I figured it out!
Yesterday I photographed school kids flying kites on a windless day. Lots of fast-moving kids and crashing kites. I started using just the center point, but switched to the automatic setting.(with no user-defined points). I was pleased to find that it seemed to work well. I haven't tried it on really fast, small flying objects, but I will. I would appreciate any comments pro or con about the default AF setting.
ruhikant wrote:
Nill,
I remember you saying (in one of the threads) to turn the autofocus expansion off for sports. I tried it and yes, I got lot of shots with focus dead on and far more keepers. However, I could not get quick focus lock in the small birds in flight shots (BIG BIRDS NO PROBLEM) . Yesterday, I spent whole day experimenting with Cfn 17(1DMK2N.) and decided that if I am not sure what is coming in the sky, I have to expand the autufocus to 7 points to handle any situation.
Ruhikant
I would probably be using 45-point AFPS in that situation, in which case I think point expansion is inapplicable.
Nill,
I will try with all 45 points and see if that help. One thing I am afraid to use all 45 poits is in situation where there are lots of backgrounds(trees or clouds), it may focus somewhere else rather than the the subject.
Does anybody really know how 45 pt AF works? What does it do, find the point of highest contrast? I guess in a clean near/far frame, it will select the near object. But does it have use if the photographer understands the camera?
dcmiller wrote:
Does anybody really know how 45 pt AF works? What does it do, find the point of highest contrast? I guess in a clean near/far frame, it will select the near object. But does it have use if the photographer understands the camera?
When you use all 45 AF points, you must FIRST help the camera out by pointing the CENTER AF point at your intended subject. THAT'S where it will always lock on first (I'm assuming tracking mode, eg AI-Servo).
After that, it may try to switch to another subject. There's a new setting in the 1D-III that helps prevent the camera from locking onto a subject that suddenly appears closer in the frame, though.
Still, the system can get fooled by background clutter . . at least the 1D-II could.
DavidP wrote:
When you use all 45 AF points, you must FIRST help the camera out by pointing the CENTER AF point at your intended subject. THAT'S where it will always lock on first (I'm assuming tracking mode, eg AI-Servo).
After that, it may try to switch to another subject. There's a new setting in the 1D-III that helps prevent the camera from locking onto a subject that suddenly appears closer in the frame, though.
Still, the system can get fooled by background clutter . . at least the 1D-II could.
Do you ever use it? Is there a sports example of its use. I've never tried. I'm not even sure I like enabling assist af points. But maybe I'm being closed minded.
Edit: Didn't read the bird in flight example. I could see that the center point being completely contained within the view of a birds body, while the contrast is between the bird and the sky. In that case, using center point only, the camera might not be able to track.
