you will see that the capacity to see focus being pulled though a plane (in the micro-prism collar) was the most compelling reason for me to endorse this product. While shooting a model from a 3/4 side view, I could watch the in-focus area (using an Apo 90 ƒ2) move through her iris... These lenses wide open have a very shallow DOF (if you look at the shot of the steel ruler on that thread, you will see that the in focus zone is perhaps 2 millimetres).
So, with that ƒ1.2 of yours (what lens is that, BTW?), I'd recommend the full micro-prism circle (I will be testing one of these against the split/micro version soon). And speaking as someone who spent considerable time with the Canon Ee-S "precision matte" screen that is supposed to be specifically for MF, I can tell you that there is no comparison between that and the Brightscreen.
Can I just comment on the perception that $160 is expensive? How much money is that for a device that can completely change your experience of seeing and shooting? The Ee-S adds maybe 5% improvement of the picture throught the finder; the other is a totally different experience. The Ee-S is $35; the BS is $160. That looks like very good value to me.
I suppose that it comes down to how important "seeing" is to your shooting style. To draw a long bow here for a moment, it's true that many of the iconic images of our time have been shot on Leica and other rangefinders, where the shooter used a preset distance setting (hyperfocal, for example) and a wide angle—and simply framed to capture that decisive moment. That's one way of working. But if you are a DSLR shooter, than you will want to really *see* what you are doing—that's the reason for the mirror and prism, after all. I have a lot of money tied up in lenses and bodies—for me, to not be able to see properly is still the greatest limitation of DSLRs (I am thinking here of seeiing the effect of a certain amount of tilt on the 24 TS-E, to render a whole plane in focus). Even with a FF finder and a Brightscreen, this is still difficult. But it is way easier than it used to be with the standard finders.
Sorry for the length of the post—I just think that the cost of a decent finder is simply the best investment any photographer can make. cheers, kit
Got my brightscreen yesterday. Putted it on my 5D. First impression was WOW, this looks very good. It seems very easy to MF, especially with the diagonal split.
However after some testing today with my Canon 90TSE and some other lenses, I noticed that many pictures were not sharp at all although for sure they looked 'in focus'. I took my time to focus on easy non-moving subjects.
Later today I did more tests: when I AF, the split looks 99.5% well-focused, meaning I can (but very hardly) see that the perfect focus doesnt correspond exactly with the view through the brightscreen, but again, the difference in the diagonal split is very very small.
I hoped I would be using much more MF now, but at this point, the brightscreen in useless for me. I changed customs settings to EE-S and EE-D (EE-S gave best results) but didnt solve my problem.
ANy idea what can be wrong? other experiences?
I found this too, initially. I had to re-seat my screen twice; you may have to do the same. Other things:
Could you do a comparison with the AF on one of your lenses, then turn that off and MF; do that with a few subjects and make sure that you remember which is AF and which is MF, look at the results at 100% and report back?
I found that I really had to re-learn how to manually focus. we are so used to seeing our work through really crappy finders (sorry to be blunt) that (IMO) most of us have forgotten how to see clearly when focussing. The view through the BS is way better and I found that I was deluded into thinking that (because the view was so much better) that it was in focus. It wasn't.
Re-seating the screen and being really careful about what I was actually seeing vs. what I thought I was seeing has made all the difference.
finally, use that diagonal prism on a graduation on a steel rule or similar (like I did earlier on this post) and compare that result with a Canon screen. That will have to be MF, of course; that test is exactly what AF can never do well in my experience.
Nice thread, i just ordered my brightscreen ... before I did so, I inquired about the availability of the grids as crop mark, and the Grid C is available within three weeks.
BS assured me that the grid marks are very fine, so I went straight for that version (it will remember me of my old yashica who had gridlines as well )
However I'd like to second what Kit said above about the value of the finder and what you can see. I am a very visual kind of person and it is important for me to get that focus exactly where I want it. Even when I use AF, I only use the center point for that reason. With non canon glass, people spend in the same range as that screen for the adapters to mount these lens. I personally have these adapters fixed to the lens - so I need to get one per lens. This is a higher precision item than the adapters (I have worked with metal turning, not with optical stuff). So compared to the canon screen, this is expensive, sure. Its like comparing EF 20/2.8 with a Zeiss 21/2.8
I tried (again) yesterday to shoot different things AF/MF. I am very confused. AF is perfect in 95% of the pictures, MF is perfect in 30%, average in 40%, and really bad in 30% of all pictures. I wanted to show some, but it just doesn't make sense. In several cases I am sure the picture must have been in focus (diagonal split, controlled subject which is easy to focus on) but even then the pictures are sometimes completely OOF.
I swapped the focus screens and back; same result. It's really a pity because the Brightscreen is a pleasure to work with. I think I am going to search for somebody whose 5D I can use for testing. You might think I am not able to MF, but on a non-moving object this really shouldnt be a problem; I really took my time for it.
Did you re-seat the BS? Like Kit, I too found that I needed to make sure the screen was tightly in place in the camera holder. It took a couple of times installing and re-installing it before it finally settled in the way it's supposed to work. That said, however, I was using a 1DMkII...but I would imagine it is possible for the same to hold true on the 5D.
Also, according to the instructions from Bright Screen http://www.brightscreen.com/changescreen.html it might help to re-calibrate your diopter. Here's the quote from the instructions:
Re-attach your lens and calibrate the adjustable viewfinder diopter to the clearest position to your individual vision preference which might be a different position with the new screen.
I wound up returning the Brightscreen for the 5D. I found the darker matte area outside the circle made it harder for me to compose my shots, and maybe my eyesight is not great so trying to see when the diagonals lined up was giving me a headache.
Maybe if it was a lot cheaper I would have kept it, but not for $160.
I received the brightscreen for my 5D on Friday and finally got a chance to use it today. I got the diagonal split screen with microprism and 8x10 crop marks.
It may seem odd, but I didn't get the screen to assist in manual focus. I got it becasue I wanted to experience a focusing screen similar to my first camera (Nikkormat FT2 circa 1974-1975). Another less significant reason for purchasing the Brightscreen (versus a different brand) was that I live in the same city as Brightscreen and wanted to give a local merchant some business.
Here are my impressions so far.
Installation - Very simple. The first time I installed the screen the circles lined-up (concentric) perfectly. However, there were a couple of specks on the screen so I removed it to blow off the specs. I was unable to remove the specs with a bulb blower and was not comfortable with using a brush. I reinstalled the screen (specks and all) and the circles were no longer concentic. I removed and re-installed the screen several more times to try and get it positioned correctly. There is only a tiny bit of play between the screen and carrier, but enough to cause the circle to be out of alignment. After a few tries I got the screen re-installed so that the circles were perfectly concentic. It is so simple to install the screen it is not a big deal to do it a couple of times to get it aligned properly.
Cop Lines - I chose the 8x10 crop lines and do not like them at all. The lines are much too thick and distracting. I will try to exhange the screen for one without the lines or much thinner lines. I was expecting the crop lines to be similar in thickness as the center circle, but they too thick for my tastes. I wanted the crop lines for shooting people photos which would likely be printed in standard sizes. I would ignore them when shooting wildlife or landscape. As it is they are too thick to ignore.
Matte area - I agree with Peter, it is a bit too dark. I haven't decide if it is too dark for me to get used to, The jury is still out. I would have preferred it to be the same as the standard focusing screen.
Split Screen/MicroPrism - In a word, AWESOME. This it the reason I bought the screen and it was deja vu. I really like the diagonal split screen and micorprism. It is very obvious when your subject comes into focus. The microprism and split screen circles are large and busy. Large is good because when in focus it is is totaly clear. Busy will take some getting used to, but after a few hours use it was already becoming familiar.
My first time out with the new Brightscreen was also my first time out with my new (to me) 500 f4 IS and Gitzo 1325, RRS BH-55 and Wimberly Sidekick. That is a lot of new stuff to learn. To make matters worse, the conditions were poor (low contrast, cloudy, overcast day) and I was shooting flying sandhill cranes at the Hiwasse Wildlife Refuge. I would be lying if I said the Brightscreen improved my keeper rate or focus (I was using AI Servo and CF 14-3). However, it was rewarding and a real pleasure to see the subject come into focus. Much more informative than seeing a small red rectangle. I look foward seeing how the Brightscreen performs under other shooting conditions.
I did re-calibrate the diopter from the start, it needed small adjustment. Day 2 I also re-seated the screen a few times. I am only worried because I am convinced the shot is in focus (clearly visible through BS) but I can not rely on it.
The ONLY cause from my side I can imagine: before I had the BS I had a problem removing my CZ 28mm lens and the back of the lens touched the latch holding the focus screen. https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/319430/0
However it seems everything still clicks properly in place. So I need to test on another 5D to be 100% sure.
Hans
If you can borrow one and test, that would be great. It is possible that fitting that CZ 21 bent the screen carrier a little, and that is what's messing up your manual focus. hth, kl
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