Sony a9iii and flash timing - Sony Forum

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p.1 #1Sony a9iii and flash timing

I always underexpose my ambient by 1 stop. With Sony flashes, I can use TTL and the flash automatically brings up the exposure of the subject.

How would I do this with manual Godox and flash timing? Let's say at 1 stop under is 1/2000 f2 250iso. For proper subject exposure, I need to be at 1/1000 with 1/128 flash power. If I were to use the Godox flash timing chart, do I use 1/1000 or 1/2000 to determine the timing? If 1/1000 is the answer, how would the timing conflict with my camera (1/2000) to underexpose the ambient?

I want to minimize time doing test shots, I want to use the chart as a hard and fast guide to set the timing. Or am I overthinking it that shutter doesn't affect flash?

Jun 19, 2026 at 02:55 PM

Newenglandrocks

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p.1 #2Sony a9iii and flash timing

From the chart, you can use whatever shutter speed works for your situation. Just stick to the same shutter speed...

Jun 19, 2026 at 07:40 PM

morris e

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p.1 #3Sony a9iii and flash timing

I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

Jun 21, 2026 at 02:14 PM

aCuria

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p.1 #4Sony a9iii and flash timing

morris e wrote:
I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.

If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.

However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun even in sunny16 conditions. With these settings you can fire the flash at like 10fps or so because its only using small amount of power.

On other camera you would need ND filter, flash will fire at 1/1 power, and the 75ws speedlight wont emit enough power. You cant shoot at 10fps either, you will fire one or two shots and then wait for flash to recharge.

I use a Sony on camera flash. Godox TTL basically doesnt work.

Jun 21, 2026 at 09:29 PM

garyHalcon

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p.1 #5Sony a9iii and flash timing

aCuria wrote:

morris e wrote

I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.

If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.

However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun...Show more →
I was using Sony speed lights and they worked effortlessly in TTL. I just hate using AA batteries, they don't cycle fast enough, and the light doesn't fill a big softbox.

So I tried the Godox ad200 in manual over the weekend. Either I don't have a workflow yet or I find myself fidgeting too much with the settings. First, I have to check my shutter speed to determine if I need to set my flash timing. If so, then find out my flash power, test a few pops. Then look over at the chart for best timing. Set that value in on my camera.

As mentioned in my first post, I under expose my ambient by 1 stop so that adds another layer of confusion to my process.

Jun 22, 2026 at 06:18 AM

aCuria

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p.1 #6Sony a9iii and flash timing

garyHalcon wrote:

aCuria wrote

morris e wrote

I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.

If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.

However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun even in sunny16 conditions. With these settings you can fire the flash at like 10fps or so because its only using small amount of power.

On other camera you would need ND filter, flash will fire at 1/1 power, and the 75ws speedlight wont emit enough power. You cant shoot at 10fps either, you will fire one or two shots and then wait for flash to recharge.

I use a Sony on camera flash. Godox TTL basically doesnt work.

I was using Sony speed lights and they worked effortlessly in TTL. I just hate using AA batteries, they don't cycle fast enough, and the light doesn't fill a big softbox.

So I tried the Godox ad200 in manual over the weekend. Either I don't have a workflow yet or I find myself fidgeting too much with the settings. First, I have to check my shutter speed to determine if I need to set my flash timing. If so, then find out my flash power, test a few pops. Then look over at the chart for best timing. Set that...Show more →

The speedlights do recycle very fast in fill flash + bright aperture situations. You can easily get 100 frames off in a burst at 10fps

I heard someone mentioning something about hooking up an external godox? battery pack to the Sony speed light, but I have not explored this possibility myself.

The AD200 will not fill a big softbox either right?

Jun 22, 2026 at 09:04 PM

garyHalcon

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p.1 #7Sony a9iii and flash timing

aCuria wrote:

garyHalcon wrote

aCuria wrote

morris e wrote

I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.

If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.

However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun even in sunny16 conditions. With these settings you can fire the flash at like 10fps or so because its only using small amount of power.

On other camera you would need ND filter, flash will fire at 1/1 power, and the 75ws speedlight wont emit enough power. You cant shoot at 10fps either, you will fire one or two shots and then wait for flash to recharge.

I use a Sony on camera flash. Godox TTL basically doesnt work.

I was using Sony speed lights and they worked effortlessly in TTL. I just hate using AA batteries, they don't cycle fast enough, and the light doesn't fill a big softbox.

So I tried the Godox ad200 in manual over the weekend. Either I don't have a workflow yet or I find myself fidgeting too much with the settings. First, I have to check my shutter speed to determine if I need to set my flash timing. If so, then find out my flash power, test a few pops. Then look over at the chart for best timing. Set that value in on my camera.

As mentioned in my first post, I under expose my ambient by 1 stop so that adds another layer of confusion to my process.

The speedlights do recycle very fast in fill flash + bright aperture situations. You can easily get 100 frames off in a burst at 10fps

I heard someone mentioning something about hooking up an external godox? battery pack to the Sony speed light, but I have not explored this possibility myself.

The AD200 will not fill a big softbox either right?

I tested it in my 42 inch softbox. The ad200 bare bulb fills it better than the speed light with the wide angle panel.

Jun 23, 2026 at 07:05 AM

hiepphotog

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p.1 #8Sony a9iii and flash timing

garyHalcon wrote:
I always underexpose my ambient by 1 stop. With Sony flashes, I can use TTL and the flash automatically brings up the exposure of the subject.

How would I do this with manual Godox and flash timing? Let's say at 1 stop under is 1/2000 f2 250iso. For proper subject exposure, I need to be at 1/1000 with 1/128 flash power. If I were to use the Godox flash timing chart, do I use 1/1000 or 1/2000 to determine the timing? If 1/1000 is the answer, how would the timing conflict with my camera (1/2000) to underexpose the ambient?

I want...Show more →

With Godox in Manual mode, you have to calibrate the delay timing for each power setting to hit peak brightness and ensure natural color. The easiest way to find this is by test-shooting a blank wall ahead of time.

To simplify the process, I work in 1-stop increments for shutter speeds from 1/1000s up to 1/32000s (which is Sunny 16 at f/1.4 and ISO 250). At fast shutter speeds, stop down to f/5.6 (or any aperture that completely kills the ambient light) and start with the AD200 at 1/8 power. Adjust the delay timing in 200ms increments until the flash registers, then fine-tune in 20ms steps to lock in maximum brightness. From there, for every 1-stop drop in flash power, decrease the delay timing by 40ms until you hit peak brightness again.

Once finished, you’ll have a complete delay timing table for every shutter speed and power combination. Just a note, at 1/2000s, your max brightness is achieved with 1/4 power setting, while at 1/1000s, 1/2 power setting provides the max brightness. I tape this directly to my AD200 for a quick reference in the field.

However, I am now selling my AD200. Running two F28RMA flashes provides the exact same high-speed output, but with the massive advantage of native TTL and global shutter sync, all at half the weight. With the new firmware, Sony tuned the F28RMA to have extremely fast flash durations under GS.

Jun 26, 2026 at 10:48 AM

hiepphotog

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p.1 #9Sony a9iii and flash timing

aCuria wrote:

morris e wrote

I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.

If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.

However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun...Show more →

I can echo your experience, but I wouldn't downplay the massive advantage a global shutter (GS) brings to strobe work. In a studio setting below sync speed, it is absolutely true that your captured output simply scales with the flash's raw power rating. However, the moment you step on location and push into high shutter speeds, GS becomes an absolute godsend. In terms of pure output, a global shutter yields a full stop more light than a standard ND filter workaround. Practically speaking, that is the equivalent of upgrading an AD200 to an AD400, but without the penalty in size and weight.

The efficiency gains are even more staggering. At ultra-fast shutter speeds (1/16000s to 1/32000s), a global shutter allows you to hit that 1-stop more brightness at just 1/8 power, or even 1/16 on a Sony F28RMA. To get max brightness using the ND workaround, you are forced to dump flash at full 1/1 power. That makes the GS approach 3 to 4 stops more efficient. On a shoot, that translates to near-instant recycle times, minimal heat buildup, effortless burst firing, longer battery life, and rock-solid color consistency. This is exactly why so many photographers haul around massive, heavy strobes, simply to avoid shooting at full power all the time.

When you add it all up, you are looking at a 4- to 5-stop overall advantage over the traditional ND workaround. Both Sony’s published data and my own real-world testing confirm this. So for my studio shots, I still have my AD600. But for on-location work, I can now make do with most situations with just the F28RM/A (the best output/weight flash on the market).

Jun 26, 2026 at 07:39 PM

aCuria

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p.1 #10Sony a9iii and flash timing

hiepphotog wrote:

aCuria wrote

morris e wrote

I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.

If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.

However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun even in sunny16 conditions. With these settings you can fire the flash at like 10fps or so because its only using small amount of power.

On other camera you would need ND filter, flash will fire at 1/1 power, and the 75ws speedlight wont emit enough power. You cant shoot at 10fps either, you will fire one or two shots and then wait for flash to recharge.

I use a Sony on camera flash. Godox TTL basically doesnt work.

I can echo your experience, but I wouldn't downplay the massive advantage a global shutter (GS) brings to strobe work. In a studio setting below sync speed, it is absolutely true that your captured output simply scales with the flash's raw power rating. However, the moment you step on location and push into high shutter speeds, GS becomes an absolute godsend. In terms of pure output, a global shutter yields a full stop more light than a standard ND filter workaround. Practically speaking, that is the equivalent of upgrading an AD200 to an AD400, but without the penalty in size...Show more →

In bright sun the global shutter is indeed ridiculously good. I don't even use the strobes because a speedlight has enough flash power!

Im not so sure about the F28RM/A, with a wide lens this strobe only covers the center of the frame

Jun 26, 2026 at 09:53 PM

hiepphotog

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p.1 #11Sony a9iii and flash timing

aCuria wrote:

hiepphotog wrote

aCuria wrote

morris e wrote

I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.

If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.

However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun even in sunny16 conditions. With these settings you can fire the flash at like 10fps or so because its only using small amount of power.

On other camera you would need ND filter, flash will fire at 1/1 power, and the 75ws speedlight wont emit enough power. You cant shoot at 10fps either, you will fire one or two shots and then wait for flash to recharge.

I use a Sony on camera flash. Godox TTL basically doesnt work.

I can echo your experience, but I wouldn't downplay the massive advantage a global shutter (GS) brings to strobe work. In a studio setting below sync speed, it is absolutely true that your captured output simply scales with the flash's raw power rating. However, the moment you step on location and push into high shutter speeds, GS becomes an absolute godsend. In terms of pure output, a global shutter yields a full stop more light than a standard ND filter workaround. Practically speaking, that is the equivalent of upgrading an AD200 to an AD400, but without the penalty in size and weight.

The efficiency gains are even more staggering. At ultra-fast shutter speeds (1/16000s to 1/32000s), a global shutter allows you to hit that 1-stop more brightness at just 1/8 power, or even 1/16 on a Sony F28RMA. To get max brightness using the ND workaround, you are forced to dump flash at full 1/1 power. That makes the GS approach 3 to 4 stops more efficient. On a shoot, that translates to near-instant recycle times, minimal heat buildup, effortless burst firing, longer battery life, and rock-solid color consistency. This is exactly why so many photographers haul around massive, heavy strobes, simply to avoid shooting at full power all the time.

When you add it all up, you are looking at a 4- to 5-stop overall advantage over the traditional ND workaround. Both Sony’s published data and my own real-world testing confirm this. So for my studio shots, I still have my AD600. But for on-location work, I can now make do with most situations with just the F28RM/A (the best output/weight flash on the market).

In bright sun the global shutter is indeed ridiculously good. I don't even use the strobes because a speedlight has enough flash power!

Im not so sure about the F28RM/A, with a wide lens this strobe only covers the center of the frame

Has not been an issue for me, especially with OCF; I have shot down to 16mm focal length with no problem. This flash has truly changed my workflow significantly. Godox has nothing even close to this kind of efficiency at high shutter speed.

Jun 27, 2026 at 03:02 AM

aCuria

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p.1 #12Sony a9iii and flash timing

hiepphotog wrote:

aCuria wrote

hiepphotog wrote

aCuria wrote

morris e wrote

I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.

If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.

However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun even in sunny16 conditions. With these settings you can fire the flash at like 10fps or so because its only using small amount of power.

On other camera you would need ND filter, flash will fire at 1/1 power, and the 75ws speedlight wont emit enough power. You cant shoot at 10fps either, you will fire one or two shots and then wait for flash to recharge.

I use a Sony on camera flash. Godox TTL basically doesnt work.

I can echo your experience, but I wouldn't downplay the massive advantage a global shutter (GS) brings to strobe work. In a studio setting below sync speed, it is absolutely true that your captured output simply scales with the flash's raw power rating. However, the moment you step on location and push into high shutter speeds, GS becomes an absolute godsend. In terms of pure output, a global shutter yields a full stop more light than a standard ND filter workaround. Practically speaking, that is the equivalent of upgrading an AD200 to an AD400, but without the penalty in size and weight.

The efficiency gains are even more staggering. At ultra-fast shutter speeds (1/16000s to 1/32000s), a global shutter allows you to hit that 1-stop more brightness at just 1/8 power, or even 1/16 on a Sony F28RMA. To get max brightness using the ND workaround, you are forced to dump flash at full 1/1 power. That makes the GS approach 3 to 4 stops more efficient. On a shoot, that translates to near-instant recycle times, minimal heat buildup, effortless burst firing, longer battery life, and rock-solid color consistency. This is exactly why so many photographers haul around massive, heavy strobes, simply to avoid shooting at full power all the time.

When you add it all up, you are looking at a 4- to 5-stop overall advantage over the traditional ND workaround. Both Sony’s published data and my own real-world testing confirm this. So for my studio shots, I still have my AD600. But for on-location work, I can now make do with most situations with just the F28RM/A (the best output/weight flash on the market).

In bright sun the global shutter is indeed ridiculously good. I don't even use the strobes because a speedlight has enough flash power!

Im not so sure about the F28RM/A, with a wide lens this strobe only covers the center of the frame

Has not been an issue for me, especially with OCF; I have shot down to 16mm focal length with no problem. This flash has truly changed my workflow significantly. Godox has nothing even close to this kind of efficiency at high shutter speed.

That’s Interesting… I may pick one up and give it a go

Jun 27, 2026 at 03:26 AM

hiepphotog

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p.1 #13Sony a9iii and flash timing

aCuria wrote:

hiepphotog wrote

aCuria wrote

hiepphotog wrote

aCuria wrote

morris e wrote

I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.

I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.

If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.

However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun even in sunny16 conditions. With these settings you can fire the flash at like 10fps or so because its only using small amount of power.

On other camera you would need ND filter, flash will fire at 1/1 power, and the 75ws speedlight wont emit enough power. You cant shoot at 10fps either, you will fire one or two shots and then wait for flash to recharge.

I use a Sony on camera flash. Godox TTL basically doesnt work.

I can echo your experience, but I wouldn't downplay the massive advantage a global shutter (GS) brings to strobe work. In a studio setting below sync speed, it is absolutely true that your captured output simply scales with the flash's raw power rating. However, the moment you step on location and push into high shutter speeds, GS becomes an absolute godsend. In terms of pure output, a global shutter yields a full stop more light than a standard ND filter workaround. Practically speaking, that is the equivalent of upgrading an AD200 to an AD400, but without the penalty in size and weight.

The efficiency gains are even more staggering. At ultra-fast shutter speeds (1/16000s to 1/32000s), a global shutter allows you to hit that 1-stop more brightness at just 1/8 power, or even 1/16 on a Sony F28RMA. To get max brightness using the ND workaround, you are forced to dump flash at full 1/1 power. That makes the GS approach 3 to 4 stops more efficient. On a shoot, that translates to near-instant recycle times, minimal heat buildup, effortless burst firing, longer battery life, and rock-solid color consistency. This is exactly why so many photographers haul around massive, heavy strobes, simply to avoid shooting at full power all the time.

When you add it all up, you are looking at a 4- to 5-stop overall advantage over the traditional ND workaround. Both Sony’s published data and my own real-world testing confirm this. So for my studio shots, I still have my AD600. But for on-location work, I can now make do with most situations with just the F28RM/A (the best output/weight flash on the market).

In bright sun the global shutter is indeed ridiculously good. I don't even use the strobes because a speedlight has enough flash power!

Im not so sure about the F28RM/A, with a wide lens this strobe only covers the center of the frame

Has not been an issue for me, especially with OCF; I have shot down to 16mm focal length with no problem. This flash has truly changed my workflow significantly. Godox has nothing even close to this kind of efficiency at high shutter speed.

That’s Interesting… I may pick one up and give it a go

Nice! At the very least, it would be the smallest and lightest GS trigger for you. It was my initial thought until I do more shoot with it. Within its coverages (24mm and 50mm), it matches the F60RM2 if not slightly better (more even distribution while matching the exposure). The bigger flash heads do have the beam control while F28RMA does not. The Focus beam will be brighter for sure.

Jun 27, 2026 at 05:45 PM

rico

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p.1 #14Sony a9iii and flash timing

Even with the A1, I can tell the OEM flashes are tuned to deliver efficient, color-consistent light at all energy settings. That means 1/400s in my case with EFCS. The F28RMA is quite powerful, but is also the cheapest way to get a radio commander. My main light source is a remote F46RM which is both more powerful and has faster recharge with 4 AA.

Jun 29, 2026 at 12:40 AM