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AI for advice on choosing lens or camera

  
 
Scott Stoness
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p.1 #1 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


Last month I went to Churchill to take pictures of polar bears. It was a great trip. https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1920108/1#16933750

I fussed over 600/f4, 200-400f4, 200-800, and 100-400 and 1.4x and combinations.

I even went out with 200-800 and 200-400 with 1.4x and 2x to try. This was not overly helpful because of low light and hard to juggle lots of lens and analyse. But it roughly informed me that r7 was a good plan for big animals (bighorn that I found).

At the last moment I was informed that my 600f4 was too big for the airplane.

I got some feedback on this forum which was good but I always worry about bias (and not asking the right questions)vbecause users have the camera and lens they have and biases that arise. So I tried google's Gemini AI - the free version.

After much Gemini-ing I chose to take my r7 (bought it for trip) , r5, 200-400 [with 1.4x (rented it), 200-800 and 100-400 as safety blanket] because:
1) I chose 200-400 for versatility (zoom 200-400f4-560f.6- 896mm/f5.6/r7) Gemini recommended shutter speed f4/f5.6 as more important than 200-800 reach at high fstop. I was initially inclined to 200-800 for size on plane but took the mount off temporarily and put it back on at arrival for flight space. 600f4 was not possible at all for flight.
2) I mostly used r7 for reach because most long shots were cropped and r7 natural cropping on 32mpx was good in good light. This was contrary to Gemini because Gemini was mostly concerned about iso performance and it did not reflect the practical - it's hard to switch and I don't want to crop to 17mpx with r5. So I concluded that r7 in good light was good choice for default.
3) I used efcs for r7 because of slow shutter read speed - Gemini convinced me that otherwise the show read speed would cause warp at long mm because of slow r7 read speed.
4) Gemini convinced me not to use 1.4xexternal on 200-400 for defraction increase related to r7 pixel density that I would not have thought about for really long and added distortion/fstop of 1.4x on top of 1.4x.
4) I used the r5 when it got darker to get my best shots because we were able to get close to mother and cubs late in the day.
I did not use the 200-800 or 100-400 (too much juggling), I mostly used the r7 (for reach), I did not put the 1.4x on my 200-400 because Gemini convinced me that shutter speed and defraction at high fstop would negate 2x effective.

---------------------


Anyway the point of this post is - I found Gemini to be excellent in helping me choose which lens and body and settings to take combined with my practical experience (can't bring it all, can't switch much in field).

I also found Gemini to be very helpful in figuring out how to set up the (new to me r7) camera in menus. When I got stymied by missing option in menu it would quickly give me an answer - much better than the manual. It convinced me not to use electronic at 900mm effective range because of slow r7 read speed. It also convinced me that 2x (higher fstop, more distortion magnified) was not a good option.

It was also helpful in giving very quick informed response, after asking the right questions.



So while I find this forum to be great (friendship and practical), Gemini for the advanced user who knows what questions to ask is great. Gemini is free with flash but it is pretty good. I am sure Chatgtp would do same but when I tried it prior it stopped giving me prompt free advice after some use. It seems to be really good at math problems (fstop, shutter speed, sensor read speed) but not good at realizing the practical - and I think if you were a novice you would not know the right questions to ask to get the right answers. And it gave a fast response with quality that did not need as much judging (is the poster biased or not well experienced).




Dec 12, 2025 at 10:58 AM
Scott Stoness
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p.1 #2 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


Eg. Here is sample query:
I have canon ts17 lens. I use it to avoid perspective correction (unbowing trees if lens is not shot level). I could achieve unboxing (meant unbowing - Gemini figured me out) with software correction and possibly use a sharper lens (sigma high end?). What are your thoughts on software correction vs fixing with shift lens - which is sharper.

Here is a snippet from answer:

Comparing Your TS-E 17mm f/4L to a High-End Wide Sigma
Your Canon TS-E 17mm f/4L is considered one of the best wide-angle lenses available for architectural and landscape work. It is often compared favorably against non-shift, high-end wide-angle zooms (including some top-tier Sigmas) specifically for its corner-to-corner sharpness and control of chromatic aberration and distortion.

Loses Resolution and Sharpness: When you correct converging lines (keystoning) in software (like Lightroom's Transform or Photoshop), the program stretches, skews, and resamples pixels in the image. The more extreme the correction, the more aggressively the corner pixels have to be scaled or "invented," leading to a noticeable loss of detail and lower effective resolution.

Significant Cropping: Digital perspective correction requires you to shoot wider than your final composition to allow for the inevitable cropping needed after the correction straightens the image. This further reduces the final usable image size and resolution.

If you were to switch to a high-end, non-shift lens (like a Sigma 14-24mm f/2.8 Art), you might find its center sharpness is comparable or even slightly better, but:
The benefit is offset by the need for software correction. The sharpness advantage of a non-shift lens's center will be erased, or even reversed, by the necessary pixel stretching and cropping when you correct the perspective digitally.
You lose the full resolution advantage of the TS-E lens. If you use a non-shift 17mm lens and correct the perspective of a tall subject in post-production, your final resolution could drop significantly (e.g., from 30MP to 15MP), whereas the TS-E 17mm retains the full 30MP.

---------------------

I then asked a follow up question:

would you change your answer if you were using the 45mpx r5ii

Gemini answered:

The 45MP sensor means that even after a significant crop and pixel stretching from software correction, the resulting image resolution (≈20MP−25MP) is still very high-quality and suitable for large prints or professional use.

I would not change my answer, but I would modify the emphasis:
For the absolute sharpest, highest-resolution result where every pixel counts (e.g., fine art printing, commercial architectural work), the Canon TS-E 17mm f/4L on the R5 Mark II is still the best option. Optical correction preserves the native 45MP detail.

For speed, flexibility, and shots where the perspective correction is moderate, the 45MP sensor makes software correction an extremely viable and high-quality alternative. The resolution buffer is large enough that the resolution loss is acceptable for most purposes.

---------

Finally I asked:
I like to print 48x32. Does this change your answer.

[Gemini] Analysis:

Optical is the Safest Bet (The Sharpest Option):
The TS-E lens preserves your full 45MP, yielding 170 PPI for your print. This is an excellent resolution that holds up even to relatively close scrutiny, which is essential for detailed landscape or architectural shots.

Software Correction Pushes the Limit:
If you use a non-shift lens and correct the perspective digitally, you will lose a significant number of pixels (up to 50% or more, depending on the severity of the correction).
A final image hovering around 20MP to 25MP would result in a 48×32 print of about 105 PPI. While this may look fine from 6 feet away, it will likely look noticeably softer and less detailed than the 170 PPI image from your TS-E lens when viewed up close.

----------------

A very good analysis (math based and nuanced that caused me to realize a better questions and provide my size target] based on an competent operator (me - hopefully you agree ) asking good questions.

And I know gdanmitchell would say - yes but the 14-24 could be zoomed where the ts17 cannot possibly offsetting the difference at 20mm - but if you know the questions, Gemini can answer the question pretty accurately And I would say, yes but knowing you need to shoot at 17mm to debow in the field requires more skill. Hopefully humour with gdanmitchell not taking offence.



Dec 12, 2025 at 11:23 AM
AmbientMike
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p.1 #3 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


Someone used Google AI as evidence for a pretty dubious point about 1.5 years ago, as evidence it was a dubious point it says it's debated if you look now.

GIGO. I was talking to a physicist friend of mine if you have 5-6 potential crackpot sites saying something AI doesn't have the judgement.

Most of the stuff you read on diffraction seems to be nonsense, you almost expect AI to get it wrong.



Dec 12, 2025 at 11:57 AM
Scott Stoness
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p.1 #4 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


Here is another example:

My question: which lens is better Laowa 15 shift or canon ts17.

Gemini Snippet Response:

Choose the Laowa 15mm f/4.5 Shift if:
You need the widest possible view: At 15mm vs 17mm, the Laowa captures a wider angle, which can be crucial in extremely tight spaces (like small interiors).
Budget is a major concern: The Laowa is dramatically more affordable, making it an excellent value proposition.
You prioritize corner-to-corner sharpness when shifted: Many reviews suggest the Laowa holds its sharpness more evenly into the extreme shifted corners than the Canon, especially at working apertures like f/8 or f/11.
You only need the Shift function: If your primary goal is perspective correction and you rarely use tilt, the Laowa provides the core shift capability at a lower cost and with great optical performance.

✅ Conclusion
For the professional who needs maximum versatility and an electronic aperture, the Canon 17mm is still the standard choice, primarily due to the added tilt function and electronic integration.

For the photographer who primarily needs ultra-wide perspective correction, is price-conscious, or wants the most consistent corner-to-corner sharpness, the Laowa 15mm is a better option. It is an exceptional performer for architectural work despite being a manual-only lens.

-------------

My follow up question:
I have observed colour shifting in laowa 15 that is less with ts17. I have also observed very minor distortion vertically in buildings. Do you agree with this.

Gemini Snippet Response:

In summary:
Color Shift: You are correct. The Canon TS-E 17mm is generally considered superior in controlling color aberrations and corner vignetting/cast, thanks to its advanced Canon L-series optics and coatings. [Elsewhere it said its correctable]

Vertical Distortion: You are likely seeing a slight optical distortion that is minor but visible on demanding architectural subjects. While both lenses are excellent for their class, the Canon's design has a slight edge in this area as well, even if it has a slightly less aggressive shift capability (±12mm vs ±11mm) and a slightly narrower focal length (17mm vs 15mm).

Ultimately, the Canon offers a more mature, electronically controlled, and optically optimized (for color/distortion control) package, while the Laowa offers a wider field of view and a significantly lower price point.


----------------------

This advice agrees with my prior to Gemini conclusions.



Dec 12, 2025 at 11:59 AM
RustyRus
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p.1 #5 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


Its seems like you are having a pretty good conversation with computers-

Why do you want to post your AI chats on a forum? Us this space for actual interaction with others members.



Dec 12, 2025 at 12:04 PM
Scott Stoness
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p.1 #6 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


AmbientMike wrote:
Someone used Google AI as evidence for a pretty dubious point about 1.5 years ago, as evidence it was a dubious point it says it's debated if you look now.

GIGO. I was talking to a physicist friend of mine if you have 5-6 potential crackpot sites saying something AI doesn't have the judgement.

Most of the stuff you read on diffraction seems to be nonsense, you almost expect AI to get it wrong.


Thanks for the response.

I agree that AI is sometimes going to pick up false or outdated solution but so am I if I am not rigorous in checking facts and competent in testing the analysis.

the digital picture indicates that r7 for example is deffraction limited at lower stops than r5- you disagree with this or just saying its not material?

I am not saying AI is superior to a strong informed analytic person, but it seems to be better informed than the average and gets pretty close to the right answer quickly. And for the menu setup, its just better for queries.




Dec 12, 2025 at 12:08 PM
Scott Stoness
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p.1 #7 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


RustyRus wrote:
Its seems like you are having a pretty good conversation with computers-

Why do you want to post your AI chats on a forum? Us this space for actual interaction with others members.


I thought it would be helpful to inform people/test that AI could be good, faster and potentially less biased and a 2nd reference.

I am not saying the forum is obsolete.




Dec 12, 2025 at 12:12 PM
AmbientMike
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p.1 #8 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


Scott Stoness wrote:
Thanks for the response.

I agree that AI is sometimes going to pick up false or outdated solution but so am I if I am not rigorous in checking facts and competent in testing the analysis.

the digital picture indicates that r7 for example is deffraction limited at lower stops than r5- you disagree with this or just saying its not material?

I am not saying AI is superior to a strong informed analytic person, but it seems to be better informed than the average and gets pretty close to the right answer quickly. And for the menu setup, its just better
...Show more

Looking at Norm Koren's site nobody seems to know the actual diffraction limit at f/32. It's supposedly diffraction limited but nobody knows the limit? One of his friends thought 63lp/mm IIRC, actually potentialy fairly sharp imo.

I got good results on m4/3 using f/16-32 on m4/3. Yes lenses tend to be best at 5.6 these days but if you look at the numbers on the old Tamron 80-200/2.8 for one, ( adaptall-2.com ) it topped out at f/11 or so. So i just tend to not believe a lot of diffraction limited claims



Dec 12, 2025 at 12:20 PM
rscheffler
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p.1 #9 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


Scott Stoness wrote:
Last month I went to Churchill to take pictures of polar bears. It was a great trip. https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1920108/1#16933750

I fussed over 600/f4, 200-400f4, 200-800, and 100-400 and 1.4x and combinations.

I even went out with 200-800 and 200-400 with 1.4x and 2x to try. This was not overly helpful because of low light and hard to juggle lots of lens and analyse. But it roughly informed me that r7 was a good plan for big animals (bighorn that I found).

At the last moment I was informed that my 600f4 was too big for the airplane.

I got some feedback on this
...Show more

It's interesting to see the process you went through, the rationale and your post-event summary from actual experience after putting the suggestions to use.

Based on your experiences, it would seem an alternative to the 200-400, if you're not going to go longer than 560/5.6, is the 100-300 with both TCs.

I'm a longtime owner and fanboy of the 200-400 but recent experience with the 100-300 is starting to bring me around to it: it's sharper, higher contrast, handles backlight veiling flare better. Faster AF and takes TCs extremely well on 45MP. Certainly better than the 200-400, which would also translate to the higher pixel density of the R7. Additionally, it's smaller and lighter. A downside is the time needed to swap a TC in/out and to actually have to remove the lens from the camera to do so (not ideal in poor weather or time limited situations).

The rumored 300-600/x.x-5.6 would likely be another candidate, if it existed.

Regarding the R7 settings choices: I would not rule out use of e-shutter in relatively static situations. It's polar bears and not BIF, so rolling shutter would likely be less of a factor. And as I've experienced shooting sports with the R6II (granted, its sensor readout is 2x faster than the R7's), when rolling shutter is present, it's often not noticeable in standalone images (you need to view a sequence of images in rapid succession to notice it). The EFCS tradeoff with the R7, apparently if in H+ advance, is the possibility of shutter shock with certain shutter speeds. Maybe you were consistently outside this danger zone?

What was the airline problem with the 600/4's size? I expect whatever carry solution you had in order to bring both the 200-400 and the 600 would have pushed standard carry-on size restrictions. In the past I've carried on a super-tele bare/loose because the case/bag had to be gate checked. Point being there are likely options, though not necessarily ideal ones. But you also would have then been juggling two large lenses out in the field, which presents its own challenges.



Dec 12, 2025 at 02:39 PM
Scott Stoness
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p.1 #10 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


AmbientMike wrote:
Looking at Norm Koren's site nobody seems to know the actual diffraction limit at f/32. It's supposedly diffraction limited but nobody knows the limit? One of his friends thought 63lp/mm IIRC, actually potentialy fairly sharp imo.

I got good results on m4/3 using f/16-32 on m4/3. Yes lenses tend to be best at 5.6 these days but if you look at the numbers on the old Tamron 80-200/2.8 for one, ( adaptall-2.com ) it topped out at f/11 or so. So i just tend to not believe a lot of diffraction limited claims


I looked up DLA (limit of defraction where the blur is a big as the pixel and beyond which more resolution is only available if the image is downscaled eg printed/displayed smaller). It is f5.2 for the R7. eg beyond f5.2 (close enough to 560mm/R7 1.6apsc 32mpx) you would start to notice the degradation if you stood near a 16x20 print. And at f11, there would be significant blur noticeable. [DLA is f7.1 (32mpxapc) for R5, f9.7 (45mpxff) for R3 (24mpxff)]

So if, if you are printing really big (eg 48x32) and doing some cropping (say 1/2), if you go beyond f5.2 there will be blur noticeable to a discerning eye. But if you print small 8x10 or post on the web, you are likely not to notice.

Thus the DLA is significant and real for large prints and significant cropping - when printed.? But not significant for web display or small prints or 6' far back from large prints - is what I understand.



Dec 12, 2025 at 02:53 PM
 


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Scott Stoness
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p.1 #11 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


rscheffler wrote:
It's interesting to see the process you went through, the rationale and your post-event summary from actual experience after putting the suggestions to use.

Based on your experiences, it would seem an alternative to the 200-400, if you're not going to go longer than 560/5.6, is the 100-300 with both TCs.

I'm a longtime owner and fanboy of the 200-400 but recent experience with the 100-300 is starting to bring me around to it: it's sharper, higher contrast, handles backlight veiling flare better. Faster AF and takes TCs extremely well on 45MP. Certainly better than the 200-400, which would also translate to
...Show more

You may be right - I have not paid attention to 100-300 because I am normally above 200mm and would have the 2x glued to it for 200- 600 f5.6 - which is so close to 200-400f4 (560f5.6). Thedigitalpicture images suggest they would be close in which I would prefer the built in 1.4x and I would like prefer the 100-300 IS (newer) and I would definitely prefer the $10,000 in my pocket for not switching. https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=1650&Camera=1508&Sample=0&FLI=5&API=2&LensComp=764&CameraComp=979&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=5&APIComp=0

I agree that with a still image rolling shutter is lessened for static subjects but distance magnifies the effects of my movement and thus shutter speed (eg lower fstop) matters. EFCS cost me nothing because I was okay with slow fps on polar bears and the noise was not significant at the long distance. Gemini indicated there could be rolling shutter affects because of IS and I ran out of time to debate. I will have to review again rolling shutter at 900mm to figure out if it matters.

The airline (old cargo charter 737) overhead was limited to 16" on longest side - shorter than my 600f4. The 200-400 squeaked into 16 (plus a wee bit). In retrospect they did not check but I could not chance it.



Dec 12, 2025 at 03:08 PM
AmbientMike
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p.1 #12 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera




Scott Stoness wrote:
I looked up DLA (limit of defraction where the blur is a big as the pixel and beyond which more resolution is only available if the image is downscaled eg printed/displayed smaller). It is f5.2 for the R7. eg beyond f5.2 (close enough to 560mm/R7 1.6apsc 32mpx) you would start to notice the degradation if you stood near a 16x20 print. And at f11, there would be significant blur noticeable. [DLA is f7.1 (32mpxapc) for R5, f9.7 (45mpxff) for R3 (24mpxff)]

So if, if you are printing really big (eg 48x32) and doing some cropping (say 1/2), if you go
...Show more

I Just don't really think that is correct. Diffraction gets thrown around like there's some law of nature saying you can't get sharp lenses at f/11. But I dont think there is one

I can't seem to pull up adaptall-2.com, if you have any of the old modern photography lens tests that used to be popular not that unusual to see lenses performance great f/11+. Even if it did fall off f/11-16 it wasn't necessarily enough to notice



Dec 12, 2025 at 09:02 PM
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p.1 #13 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


You must have too much gear or too much time on your hands, or both.

Or you are an Albertan engineer.



Dec 12, 2025 at 09:37 PM
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p.1 #14 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


I'm heading to Norway for two weeks and even though I know what I want to take (lots, too much as always), I asked GPT and Perplexity. I'm not new to this (neither LLMs nor photography), but what went down - especially with GPT in this case - increased my blood pressure

I think the question about 17 TSE is a very scientific and pretty clear cut question that can be answered purely with math, which I suspect is why Gemini didn't completely trip over itself.



Dec 13, 2025 at 01:26 AM
EB-1
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p.1 #15 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


The problem is to identify how the AI weighs the various factors, such as lens center to corner MTF at each focal length and aperture, image sensor S/N per ISO, and impact of AA filters, not to mention usability features such as effective aperture, AF performance, sensor readout speed, etc. There is plenty of FUD about diffraction and it is unclear how the AI is using the actual lens characteristics vs. Airy disc for a theoretically perfect lens. Is the AI just looking for system MTF (50?) over a certain zone like r/sqrt(2) or a criteria like that?

EBH



Dec 13, 2025 at 02:17 AM
Scott Stoness
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p.1 #16 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


Imagemaster wrote:
You must have too much gear or too much time on your hands, or both.

Or you are an Albertan engineer.


Right on 3 counts - too much gear, too much time (retired) and Alberta (Electrical) Engineer.




Dec 13, 2025 at 08:58 AM
Scott Stoness
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p.1 #17 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


stanj wrote:
I'm heading to Norway for two weeks and even though I know what I want to take (lots, too much as always), I asked GPT and Perplexity. I'm not new to this (neither LLMs nor photography), but what went down - especially with GPT in this case - increased my blood pressure

I think the question about 17 TSE is a very scientific and pretty clear cut question that can be answered purely with math, which I suspect is why Gemini didn't completely trip over itself.


Yes I was surprised how good (and fast) Gemini was at math problems. This is why I found the defraction considerations of r7 (DLA F5.2) so insightlful. Beyond f5.2 you are introducing distortion, thus 200-800 at f9 vs 200-400/1.4x f5.6 becomes significant with the added effective magnification of such distortion (eg fstop matters for r7).

Questions about which lens to take to Norway, involve way more than math (how much can you bring on the airplane, how many lens can you carry at a time, what are you likely to shoot.... that require judgment). but Gemini causes a real time conversation where you can test your conclusions promptly and ask for assumptions.



Edited on Dec 13, 2025 at 09:30 AM · View previous versions



Dec 13, 2025 at 09:01 AM
Scott Stoness
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p.1 #18 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


EB-1 wrote:
The problem is to identify how the AI weighs the various factors, such as lens center to corner MTF at each focal length and aperture, image sensor S/N per ISO, and impact of AA filters, not to mention usability features such as effective aperture, AF performance, sensor readout speed, etc. There is plenty of FUD about diffraction and it is unclear how the AI is using the actual lens characteristics vs. Airy disc for a theoretically perfect lens. Is the AI just looking for system MTF (50?) over a certain zone like r/sqrt(2) or a criteria like that?

EBH


I agree, unless you ask Gemini how it is calculating airy disc and what is its MTF (50) significance, you are just leaving it up to Gemini. But this would be the case if I asked you (EB-1) too. eg it is useful but potentially misleading without understanding the assumptions. The benefit of Gemini is that you can ask it what its assumptions were (my expectation would have been significant is where the distortion is bigger than a pixel but who knows could be 1/2 that for nyquist).

[In my case, I ran out of time before my trip, and just assumed that gemini was using 1 pixel distortion but intuitively above DLA, you are magnifying a more blurred image (at eg f9 vs f5.6) and the resulting increase in iso (doubling) would cause loss of dynamic range which is needed in bright light - so I just assumed that it was directionally right]

But at least the discussion, in the right hands like yourself who can ask about AA effects, etc, has the prospect of a more informed answer that just asking you (for example) not knowing what your expertise is and what your assumptions are. ?




Dec 13, 2025 at 09:08 AM
Sy Sez
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p.1 #19 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


There has long been Science Fiction tales of Robots 'taking over", and controlling humans, most often in a negative way.

The more people tend to rely on Artificial Intelligence, rather than to think, explore, and reason for themselves, the more Science Fiction departs from fiction, and becomes a mindless reality.



Dec 13, 2025 at 10:48 AM
Z250SA
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p.1 #20 · AI for advice on choosing lens or camera


Oh, this is interesting in som many ways and on so many levels! Yes, the Asimov novel on Multivac when humans had forgot how to add... YMMW!!

Firstly, the Airy disc, Rayleigh criterion, Nyquist frequency etc are science facts and used within the context of diffraction.

The DLA uses some measure of diffraction and adds the "pixel size" for our pleasure and enlightenment, yes, to a degree. The first problem is the measure of diffraction e.g. the Airy disc. Its size is dependent on the wavelength of the light. Short waves as in blue, smaller disc, reds larger. Which to use? An average? Which average is appropriate for the specific image, sunset red, forrest green, midday sea.

The other much larger conglomerate of issues is what happens when the light reaches the sensor. I guess only a few engineers really understand what happens between the light hitting the sensor and the images as it is presented to the user. The Bayer filter, the , the software assembling the final RAW file, I can only guess and likely miss most of it, probably understand even less. It is HERE were most of the physical diffraction gets blurred. I highly doubt that any AI would get to sniff around in this bubble and then fart it out in free interspace.

Yes, I was a firm believer in the DLA and stayed at f/8 and below just to get usable images. On 10-24Mp sensors. Then came the 800/11, first on my 45Mp R5 and then on my 32Mp R7 (= 115Mp FF), and guess what. I got pretty amazing images even this far out on the wrong side of the DLA, sharp full of detail.

This is the part were AI fails, together with most of us, to be fair. What is good enough? What makes an image good enough? PPI? PPI + watching distance? RAW to print loss in IQ? How large a part is DLA in the total loss? 5%? 1%? So why do we believe in it at all? It is a number, clear and simple and not very important at all.

In most discussions we fail to realize the weaknesses of DLA and we fail to catch our non-understanding of the sensor to RAW interpretation. And those of us who like maths tend to fail miserably because we are seduced by the numbers we believe we understand, we can measure, add divide and conquer. Por us!



Dec 13, 2025 at 12:45 PM
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