If anyone is curious, I did more testing after Fred's and mine, specifically for contrasts and sharpness fall off on the 28/1.5 versus the f2. I can post if wanted.
I also found today, that when both lenses are set to f2, the 28/1.5 lets in more light by 1/3 stop. Or at least that's how the camera meter meters the same scene.
nehemiahphoto wrote:
If anyone is curious, I did more testing after Fred's and mine, specifically for contrasts and sharpness fall off on the 28/1.5 versus the f2. I can post if wanted.
I also found today, that when both lenses are set to f2, the 28/1.5 lets in more light by 1/3 stop. Or at least that's how the camera meter meters the same scene.
Post them!
I think that is what makes this site great- Honest and candid feedback from true members-
Fred Miranda wrote:
Awesome! You beat me to it. I'm really looking forward to shooting film with this lens, but I haven't had the opportunity to do so yet.
Thanks Fred - looking forward to seeing what you get. Next will be to try some Ektar and/or ProImage.
nehemiahphoto wrote:
If anyone is curious, I did more testing after Fred's and mine, specifically for contrasts and sharpness fall off on the 28/1.5 versus the f2. I can post if wanted.
I also found today, that when both lenses are set to f2, the 28/1.5 lets in more light by 1/3 stop. Or at least that's how the camera meter meters the same scene.
Curious to see, but ...
I wouldn't go by camera "metering" ... ummm, is that center metering, center weighted, matrix, spot, large spot, small spot, etc.
Compound the different metering programs vs. the different programming between camera models / brands, etc. ... too many variables about how it might meter on one camera vs. another.
Imo, best to shoot all parameters manually, in a static, controlled scene. Then, check the RGB values in post to assess how much luminance (and color cast) difference there is. Variance in vignetting and focal length (i.e. wider, showing more sky, etc.), can influence metering, depending on the lighting / metering mode.
For those looking to enable 6-bit coding on the Voigtlander 28mm f/1.5 Nokton to display as "Summilux-M 1:1.4/28 ASPH.", you can use the following code:
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While using the 28/1.5, I found it frustrating several times and wasn't overly happily. Both in terms of IQ, but also because it was nearly impossible to acquire focus with either shimmering or magnified view outside the frame center. Maybe better EVF's would largely mitigate this.
With Fred's crops at infinite, the CV 28/2 looked close to the 28/1.5 when both at f2. When I did my shooting tests earlier this thread, placing the focal spot at the intersection of the vertical and horizontal rule of 1/3rds at one meter, the difference was large. I want to know when and where it's safe to place my subjects if shooting at 1.5 or f2. For my kind of shooting, this is important.
Today, at 2 meters, I checked the lenses against each other again at the intersection of 1/3rds. The difference is also large. I guess the plane of focus evens out more after 3 meters. But given a 28mm FL, and from MFD to 2 meters, you're not getting very good performance at the rule of 1/3rd and further out--so midzone to extreme corners--it helps me understand the limitations of the lens, therefore I can get better results and will enjoy the lens more as well. If you look at the 2 meters crops, the focus is on the bird feeder, but on the rest of crop, you can see the FC takes its toll all over. Really, there's a pretty centralized sweet spot I'd want to place my subjects in.
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The CV 28/1.5 has more axial CA when both are shot at f2.
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The CV 28/2 has a bit more bite when shot centrally and both at f2. Not a large difference though.
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I was unable to do a flare resistance test when we got a rare sunny day here. I believe the 28/2 Ultron will show better flare resistance, both in terms of ghosting and flare. If someone else wants to check, that would be great.
The more I shoot the 28/1.5 the more I learn and like it. I'll still be keeping the 28/2, but great options by CV
highdesertmesa wrote:
Control of veiling flare wasn't something Voigtlander seems to have prioritized with the 28/35 1.5 lenses. But I don't think the backlit 28 1.5 examples here look quite as bad as those I got from the 35 1.5. With the 35 1.5, I was getting images ruined by veiling flare with the sun well outside the frame.
In your sample image, were you using a black-ring clear/UV filter on the lens? The Voigtlander hoods alone don't completely hide the silver ring from the frontal view of the lens.
Yeah, I recall the flare resistance being a bit surprising because it was good but not great, on the CV 35/1.5. I posted it on CV 35/1.5 thread. I still think the CV 35/1.7 has the best flare resistance of any 35mm I've shot.
No UV filter was used in the photo above. Maybe that would help you think? I when I comp'ed the 35/1.7 and 35/1.2iii, the silver chrome ring threw a specific little ghost, and only at certain apertures near WO. I did a tripod test and posted it some time ago--I can find again if you're interested.
nehemiahphoto wrote:
Yeah, I recall the flare resistance being a bit surprising because it was good but not great, on the CV 35/1.5. I posted it on CV 35/1.5 thread. I still think the CV 35/1.7 has the best flare resistance of any 35mm I've shot.
No UV filter was used in the photo above. Maybe that would help you think? I when I comp'ed the 35/1.7 and 35/1.2iii, the silver chrome ring threw a specific little ghost, and only at certain apertures near WO. I did a tripod test and posted it some time ago--I can find again if you're interested.
I don't think the UV will help, I was just thinking covering the chrome ring with a black ringed filter might help reduce some of the colored flares but maybe not. Sounds like based on your past experience you know what to look for regarding any flare from the chrome ring.
I found with the 35 1.5 the best solution was just to use my hand as a shade when I saw veiling flare. That gets a bit harder with 28mm to hold the camera with one hand and try not to get the other hand in the picture
highdesertmesa wrote:
I don't think the UV will help, I was just thinking covering the chrome ring with a black ringed filter might help reduce some of the colored flares but maybe not. Sounds like based on your past experience you know what to look for regarding any flare from the chrome ring.
I found with the 35 1.5 the best solution was just to use my hand as a shade when I saw veiling flare. That gets a bit harder with 28mm to hold the camera with one hand and try not to get the other hand in the picture
CV 28mm 1.5 creates a ring flare between f/1.5 and f/2.0. I do think that stupid chrome ring is the cause.
Chris_88 wrote:
Fred, thanks for those impressions. If you don't mind me asking, which of the 3(?) Cosina 28's would be your recommendation for exclusive use on a Sony cam?
I’m interested in this too. Do I stand to gain anything over the (old and optically messy) FE 28mm f/2 if I am considering the CV 28mm f/2 Ultron II, CV 28mm f/1.5 Nokton, and 7Artisans 28mm f/1.4 FE+? Or is the best current option that isn’t the stupidly large Sigma.. the Laowa 1.2?
Part of me is holding out hope that Cosina announces e-mount versions of the 28 Nokton and 50 f/1 at CP+ but I fully expect to be disappointed.
Why haven’t Sigma produced an I Series 28? I have and love the 35 and 90 and I would buy a 28 in a heartbeat. Is it really that difficult?
LAARILEY wrote:
I’m interested in this too. Do I stand to gain anything over the (old and optically messy) FE 28mm f/2 if I am considering the CV 28mm f/2 Ultron II, CV 28mm f/1.5 Nokton, and 7Artisans 28mm f/1.4 FE+? Or is the best current option that isn’t the stupidly large Sigma.. the Laowa 1.2?
Part of me is holding out hope that Cosina announces e-mount versions of the 28 Nokton and 50 f/1 at CP+ but I fully expect to be disappointed.
Why haven’t Sigma produced an I Series 28? I have and love the 35 and 90 and I would buy a 28 in a heartbeat. Is it really that difficult?...Show more →
The only 28mm M-mount lens I would use on Sony is the 7A 28mm 1.4 Fe+, but also here I would rather get the Laowa 28mm 1.2.
And I have used all of the lenses mentioned.
BastianK wrote:
I do think that stupid chrome ring is the cause.
Interesting observation. Can you post a picture please - I haven't had the chance to create a flare situation yet. If the flare is caused by the chrome ring, a screw-in filter should completely eliminate it.
jgeenen wrote:
Interesting observation. Can you post a picture please - I haven't had the chance to create a flare situation yet. If the flare is caused by the chrome ring, a screw-in filter should completely eliminate it.
BastianK wrote:
The only 28mm M-mount lens I would use on Sony is the 7A 28mm 1.4 Fe+, but also here I would rather get the Laowa 28mm 1.2.
And I have used all of the lenses mentioned.
@bastian: How about the Simera 28 on a Sony?
