Fred Miranda wrote:
Anyone got a Voigtlander 90mm f/2.8 APO-Skopar that's perfectly calibrated with the rangefinder? I've attempted three copies so far, but they all had slight calibration issues. I might give it another try.
philip_pj wrote:
The colour palette and tonal grading from this one appear to more closely resemble that of many Leica lenses than most recent Voigtlanders do.
It makes sense, doesn't it? They are predominantly a provider to the M mount, so they may as well do what they can to replicate what M users bought their cameras for, in the way of colour characteristics. Fortunately, among their 29 current M lenses, they produce rather different sub-ranges: 'classic', 'vintage' and the 'high performance' categories.
I'm not a fan of Leica colour, but CV's Vintage lenses are my cup of tea (I have three of them), those plus the APOs they made for Sony, which are rather different from the M mount APOs in any case.
In your reviews you had 3 lenses and they all needed to be calibrated there was front focus issues. I am wondering since I bought one from an FMer if mine has an issue and thats why it was sold. How do I test my lens
Shooting M Monochrom 246.
Fred Miranda wrote:
What do you mean by calibration?
AHPZuazua wrote:
In your reviews you had 3 lenses and they all needed to be calibrated there was front focus issues. I am wondering since I bought one from an FMer if mine has an issue and thats why it was sold. How do I test my lens
Shooting M Monochrom 246.
Sure, first, make sure your rangefinder is perfectly calibrated. Once confirmed, if you're checking whether a specific lens is correctly aligned with the rangefinder, follow this guide: (I wrote this guide for myself)
A) FRONT-FOCUSING
- Focus with the lens wide open using LiveView (LCD or EVF).
- If, in the RF (rangefinder), the focus doesn't align correctly and needs the focus ring to turn counter-clockwise (CCW) until it's correct, the lens is front-focusing.
- To fix this, remove shim(s).
B) BACK-FOCUSING
- Focus with the lens wide open using LiveView (LCD or EVF).
- If, in the RF (rangefinder), the focus doesn't align correctly and requires the focus ring to turn clockwise (CW) until it's correct, the lens is back-focusing.
- To fix this, add shim(s).
This is very beneficial. I'll try this tomorrow afternoon. Thank you
Fred Miranda wrote:
Sure, first, make sure your rangefinder is perfectly calibrated. Once confirmed, if you're checking whether a specific lens is correctly aligned with the rangefinder, follow this guide: (I wrote this guide for myself)
A) FRONT-FOCUSING
- Focus with the lens wide open using LiveView (LCD or EVF).
- If, in the RF (rangefinder), the focus doesn't align correctly and needs the focus ring to turn counter-clockwise (CCW) until it's correct, the lens is front-focusing.
- To fix this, remove shim(s).
B) BACK-FOCUSING
- Focus with the lens wide open using LiveView (LCD or EVF).
- If, in the RF (rangefinder), the focus doesn't align correctly and requires the focus ring to turn clockwise (CW) until it's correct, the lens is back-focusing.
- To fix this, add shim(s)....Show more →
I happen to have a copy which is well calibrated with my M10R. Bought it from a fellow FMer who was using M11 with it, and he used it in professional wedding shoots without issues. So I guess a good copy does exist.
This gem is tack sharp. It's hard to nail focus with RF in pets but doable. It's much easier to focus on people. I have never had anything longer than 50mm for the digital M. Kind of dig it. May end up getting like a 75 APO or 90 APO.
