JoeTomasone
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 p.3 #5 · R5/R6 - Battery / Coupler / Charging in the field - lessons & questions | |
Here's a post I made on FB in an R5 group about the battery pack:
For those of you who never seem to have enough battery for your Canon R5 and don't want to carry lots of spares, I can confirm that an external battery pack DOES indeed power the camera IF the battery pack has a USB-C output that supports Power Delivery (PD) of at least 45W.
Note that I do not have nor did I test a 36W PD battery, but I did test an 18W one and it will NOT work. However, the 18W WILL charge the internal batteries when the camera is OFF. It will not provide any power while it is ON. All of this was determined with a USB-C power meter measuring the current going to the camera from the battery pack. (FYI, the R5 consumes about 1.42a in 20fps electronic burst mode and about 320ma with back screen on and otherwise idle).
So, my rig for those multi hour, multi-game days now includes an external 45W PD (Anker Powercore+ 28600, which right now it $10 off plus a $30 coupon on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01...) which for the moment I will simply shove in my back pocket until and unless I can come up with a more elegant solution to affix it to my monopod or belt or something.
This is a game changer for me, and instead of buying lots of expensive Canon batteries or buying, testing, and returning the third party batteries which VERY rarely have the power capacity they advertise (and no, I'm not joking, I've got the data to back it up - from Wasabi to no-name Amazon cheapies, all of them were - shall we charitibly say - "mislabeled").
So, if battery life is a concern for you, here's a solution that makes sense to me. Yes, you'll have a USB-C cable sticking out the left side, but it's a small price to pay for never having to worry about battery life ever again.
Michael Blumfield
How long will that Anker last powering your camera before it needs to be recharged?
Joe Tomasone
Well, this is all gonna be back-of-the-napkin math since there are conversion factors I don't know and the camera's current consumption is not constant, but that pack is 97.28Wh, so it would yield 19.45Ah @5v, but if we factor a 20% conversion loss, that's 15.56 Ah.
I estimated current consumption averages that are probably reasonably accurate:
Screen off (power saving mode): 230ma
Menu screen on: 290ma
(These two are the only two constant current consumption figures I got, the rest are averages)
Screen on, idle: 500ma avg.
EVF on, idle: 850ma avg.
Electronic burst: 1300ma avg.
1st curtain burst: 1500ma avg.
Mechanical burst: 1700ma avg.
So that would work out to about 9.15 hours of mechanical burst shooting @ 1.7Ah (and I mean holding the button for 10 hours straight), or 31 hours idle - so somewhere in between 9 and 31 hours depending on how much you shoot versus waiting to shoot, what shutter mode you choose, if you have power saving on, etc. If we say that you'll be firing 1st curtain bursts 70% of the time (say for a football game), that would work out to an average of 1100mah, so that would work out to 14 hours. Shooting less of the time - like in a studio - would obviously increase the battery longevity. And - it must be said- you'd still have the in-camera battery(ies) if you ever managed to run the Anker out. That's unlikely.
I will probably use the Anker when covering sports or when I have a full day of shooting anything, and go without when I won't be shooting as much. I will keep it in the bag just in case, since I can always use it or recharge the in-camera batteries with it (or my phone, or power my iPad) should the need arise.
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