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Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment

  
 
inksandpaper
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p.1 #1 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


It is difficult to determine which forum category is best for posting this thread since it is cross-disciplinary, discussing our discoveries and issues as it relates to astrophotography, though not necessarily limited to astro-work only, mainly using the Sony a7R II as an example, though the problem isn't Sony-specific. Perhaps it is best suited to live in the Sony E-mount forum since many of the examples are for the Sony system, but any enterprising photographer can easily adapt our methods to any other system. (For example, Leica camera/lenses)

Joseph Holmes and I have found our Sony a7R II (and my Canon 5D Mk II too) sensor to be crooked relative to its bayonet mount. A few years ago, such a claim would be considerably more aberrant. It is less so as sensors have gone way up in resolution and way small in pixel pitch, revealing tiny alignment errors better, and reader comments on Roger Cicala's recent flange distance articles and elsewhere on the web indicate that increasing numbers of photographers are concerned about such issues. No one has yet proposed a simple and relatively cheap method that is also sufficiently precise for determining sensor tilt and my hope in publishing this information is to provide such a means to anyone interested.

It should come as no surprise to most that lenses also have focus field tilt issues too, and on average the tilts seem to be more severe than sensors. Returning 'bad copies' which are decentered is fine, but returning them because they are tilted is a fool's errand since every single lens is tilted (according to Roger Cicala and also in our experience), unless one is so lucky to find one that matches the tilt of their camera. Marianne Oelund shared her method of adjusting field tilt using aluminium foil about three years ago.. The ring shims Joseph and I found might be of interest. We think they are a more elegant way to shim the bayonet mount of our cameras and lenses. All the details are in my article.

Fair warning: the discourse is a very long one and covers a multitude of issues and discoveries, but I trust it would make a worthwhile read for anyone who cares.

https://cacaoeditions.com/your-cameras-and-lenses-are-crooked/

Cheers,
Samuel Chia



Sep 04, 2020 at 07:58 AM
MikeEvangelist
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p.1 #2 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


Wow...fantastic work Samuel! Thanks for sharing it.


Sep 04, 2020 at 08:34 AM
inksandpaper
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p.1 #3 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


MikeEvangelist wrote:
Wow...fantastic work Samuel! Thanks for sharing it.


You're most welcome Mike! Glad you like it. I'll be happy to answer any questions you or anyone might have about the many issues raised.



Sep 05, 2020 at 06:09 AM
vdo1
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p.1 #4 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


This warns of the possibility that those that "cherry picked" lenses to have a tilt to match/cancel the one of their camera mount, will one day, when buying a new camera, with a different mount tilt, find out that all their lenses are now "tilted". So their next step would be to cherry pick cameras to match the lenses lol. Neverending quest.


Sep 05, 2020 at 07:52 AM
chiron
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p.1 #5 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


vdo1 wrote:
This warns of the possibility that those that "cherry picked" lenses to have a tilt to match/cancel the one of their camera mount, will one day, when buying a new camera, with a different mount tilt, find out that all their lenses are now "tilted". So their next step would be to cherry pick cameras to match the lenses lol. Neverending quest.


I disagree. I think the "defects" that Fred's test, for example, is intended to detect are much grosser than the very refined tilts that the OP is working to eliminate. The lens problems and associated image degradations spotted by Fred's test would be present on virtually any camera that made it out of the factory because those problems far exceed the variances the OP is concerned with.



Sep 05, 2020 at 08:37 AM
inksandpaper
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p.1 #6 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


vdo1 wrote:
This warns of the possibility that those that "cherry picked" lenses to have a tilt to match/cancel the one of their camera mount, will one day, when buying a new camera, with a different mount tilt, find out that all their lenses are now "tilted". So their next step would be to cherry pick cameras to match the lenses lol. Neverending quest.


There is an element of truth to this, which I warned about in the section regarding bayonet machining precision. Unfortunately, we don't know what the full variation range of tilts are for all cameras made by the different manufacturers. Roger's measurements of thousands of cameras for their flange distance is somewhat illuminating of the variation one should expect, though it would be a stretch to assume that the sensor tilts would vary by just as much. Possible, but just as likely it could be less.

The front mounts we generally assume to be the reference point in a camera, and the sensors are aligned to that. So in that sense, to be precise, the front mount is not considered to be tilted (unless damaged). CNC-machining of the bayonets are also generally much more precise and consistent between copies (likely under 30 microns) than the kind of focus field tilts one tends to find in lenses. Lenses can also be optically decentered and few have the ability to DIY adjust such a flaw. So assuming you have a sensor that is straight relative to your front mount, a non-tilted lens (by luck or by user-adjustment) on this camera would have a very high chance to mate quite well to another. For most kinds of pictures you might want to make, you should not notice a problem.

If you did not adjust your camera before picking your lenses, assuming it was straight out-of-the-factory, then yes, putting them on a second body could lead to surprises, if one was very fussy. The maximum combined tilts could exceed 70 microns.

The efforts to ensure fine alignment of the various components of your system are still worthwhile in my book.



Sep 05, 2020 at 05:33 PM
lora_to
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p.1 #7 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


I was always curious if IBIS could lead to problems (== sensor mis-alignment) over time. Did you ever notice slight tilt creeping back in over time?


Sep 05, 2020 at 08:10 PM
inksandpaper
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p.1 #8 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


lora_to wrote:
I was always curious if IBIS could lead to problems (== sensor mis-alignment) over time. Did you ever notice slight tilt creeping back in over time?


Excellent question. We did wonder about just such a thing for a while.

I don't know if you are familiar with IBIS systems and how they work. Typically the IBIS sensor assembly is in two parts and the sensor-mounted side rolls around on bearing balls constrained in little wells or cups. Check it out under step #18 of the iFixit teardown. Roger Cicala was mistaken in his recent GFX 100 teardown that the tensioning springs holding down the two halves of the sensor IBIS assembly is meant to allow the sensor to move fore and aft or 'up and down' as he calls it, to attain the claimed 5-axis IBIS movement. So, the first point is that the IBIS system is not designed to tilt or move the sensor in the z-axis, and IBIS calibration, which can be done by a service centre, is simply to center the sensor in the parked position relative to the mount, not to adjust for tilt.

The second point is, are the bearing balls round enough, and are the surfaces they roll on flat enough? I had a short discussion with Brandon Dube in the comments section on the Lensrentals blog when he raised this IBIS issue too. This was what he said:

The roundness spec on a typical "precision" ball bearing is 1 mil (25 microns). If you assume independent, normally distributed errors then you would expect (25^2 * 3)^0.5 = 43 um of runout from 3 of them. Compound this with the flatness of the Vs, which will be worse.

The IBIS systems that use 3 ball bearings place 3 balls in 3 Vs, two of which are in a line. This is not kinematic; the system is not fully constrained.


This assumption was based on Sony not using ball bearings with a higher roundness spec, possibly to reduce cost. Personally, I suspect it is not so. 43 microns is over twice the tilt error of my own a7R II's sensor relative to the bayonet mount, just to put things in perspective. Such variance in tilt would be easily noticeable. I've done experiments where I've turned off the camera, shook it slightly (the sensor is not parked when turned off) to allow the sensor to 'roam' freely and so in the parked position when the camera is turned back on, the sensor is most likely resting on a different point of the ball bearings, which are also likely in a slightly different position on the surface of their retaining 'wells'. I've also turned on IBIS, inflicted some typical hand-hold shaking, then turned off IBIS and mounted it back on the tripod. There was no visible change to the focus plane with repeats of doing these. I've also gone back to the track months later and repeated the flipping test, and the results were consistent with previous ones for the same shimmed state.

The third encouraging thing was that Roger also mentioned in his flange distance articles that they did test to see if IBIS movement caused changes to the measured flange distance, but repeated measurements were identical every time. Even though their Denz instrument has a resolution of 10 microns, not 1, and on-axis IBIS-caused tilts would be less than at the sensor's edge, I think we can assume at this point that it is not something to worry about. I would hazard a guess that IBIS typically does not change the tilt by more than 5 microns. Certainly under 10.

However, it was brought to my attention that if you point a Sony IBIS Alpha camera straight down, say for aerial photography, the sensor does flop down a bit. The Sony design doesn't seem to have the tensioning springs like the GFX 100 does to prevent flop. I've never taken apart a Sony IBIS assembly so I'm not 100% sure, but it's not visible in any teardown pictures I've studied. If someone else knows better about this, please share with us! For what it's worth, I was not able to notice this flopping (which will cause a noticeable shift in focus) in my own tests so far, but I'll just highlight it in case. It may well be that some units will be more floppy than others.



Sep 05, 2020 at 09:34 PM
hasenbein
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p.1 #9 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


So this is where the sharpness mania has brought us to.

The authors of the next edition of the DSM are watching.



Sep 05, 2020 at 11:21 PM
Beni
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p.1 #10 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


inksandpaper wrote:
However, it was brought to my attention that if you point a Sony IBIS Alpha camera straight down, say for aerial photography, the sensor does flop down a bit. The Sony design doesn't seem to have the tensioning springs like the GFX 100 does to prevent flop. I've never taken apart a Sony IBIS assembly so I'm not 100% sure, but it's not visible in any teardown pictures I've studied. If someone else knows better about this, please share with us! For what it's worth, I was not able to notice this flopping (which will cause a noticeable shift in
...Show more →

This would be as noticeable in a copy stand setup. We never noticed a problem in our repro studio's but we shoot at f8.




Sep 05, 2020 at 11:33 PM
 


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inksandpaper
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p.1 #11 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


Beni wrote:
This would be as noticeable in a copy stand setup. We never noticed a problem in our repro studio's but we shoot at f8.

Yes indeed, stopping down hides a great many issues. These subtle alignment problems became visible only because we are forced to shoot at f/2.8 or wider for astro. For most normal types of photography, these issues are irrelevant. They have never otherwise bothered me in 15 years of typical landscape photography.



Sep 06, 2020 at 12:16 AM
realVivek
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p.1 #12 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


It is sad to see the shims from the APO CV 50/2. This is one of the best QC controlled lenses out there. They built special machines to do the alignments.

I wonder how much of that is lost by tinkering with it?



Sep 06, 2020 at 05:00 AM
inksandpaper
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p.1 #13 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


realVivek wrote:
It is sad to see the shims from the APO CV 50/2. This is one of the best QC controlled lenses out there. They built special machines to do the alignments.

I wonder how much of that is lost by tinkering with it?


I'm not sure what you mean by that? Why is seeing the shims sad? The shims are there to adjust the infinity focus position very precisely, quite necessary.

I'm also not sure what you mean by 'how much of that is lost'. The adjustments I made to fix the focus field tilt of my V50 greatly improved it to fully realise the true potential of this amazing lens. There was no loss in optical quality at all, rather, it is now equally sharp on-axis as well as off-axis in a flat plane, so I can shoot a flat subject wide open and have everything in perfect focus.



Sep 06, 2020 at 06:04 AM
Fred Miranda
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p.1 #14 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


Great writing Samuel.

Personally, I've encountered two Sony E-mount cameras (A7R II and A7R IV) with issues with sensor-mount parallelism. It's easy to spot the issue when testing with lenses I know to be centered in optimal bodies.

However, from my experience, lens asymmetry is a much bigger and common issue compared to mount/sensor parallelism and most of the time, there is no easy fix. The more elements and design complexity, the more chances of element tilt or incorrect spacing.



Sep 06, 2020 at 11:02 AM
sbay
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p.1 #15 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


I've often hoped that sensor IBIS mechanisms would include tilt. That would be so awesome to eliminate this and for other reasons.


Sep 06, 2020 at 11:18 AM
realVivek
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p.1 #16 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment



The APO Lanthar 50/2 (and the 110/2.5) are sold with a infinity range and with no hard infinity stop like most lenses. There could be a reason for that. It is possible that the infinity mark shifts with temperature due to all the APD elements in those lenses.

It is unclear to me if the lens tilt was detected on camera with a skewed mount or with a “perfect” mount.


inksandpaper wrote:
I'm not sure what you mean by that? Why is seeing the shims sad? The shims are there to adjust the infinity focus position very precisely, quite necessary.

I'm also not sure what you mean by 'how much of that is lost'. The adjustments I made to fix the focus field tilt of my V50 greatly improved it to fully realise the true potential of this amazing lens. There was no loss in optical quality at all, rather, it is now equally sharp on-axis as well as off-axis in a flat plane, so I can shoot a flat subject wide open
...Show more →




Sep 06, 2020 at 11:48 AM
inksandpaper
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p.1 #17 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


Fred Miranda wrote:
Great writing Samuel.

Personally, I've encountered two Sony E-mount cameras (A7R II and A7R IV) with issues with sensor-mount parallelism. It's easy to spot the issue when testing with lenses I know to be centered in optimal bodies.

However, from my experience, lens asymmetry is a much bigger and common issue compared to mount/sensor parallelism and most of the time, there is no easy fix. The more elements and design complexity, the more chances of element tilt or incorrect spacing.


Thanks Fred!

I'm curious to know how you determined those optimal bodies to be optimal? We were chasing our tails initially, being unable to isolate the body's error from the lens. I'm also wondering by how much those two a7R II and R IV bodies you found were not parallel. Was it slight or quite noticeable? If you could guess in micron's worth, it would be very illuminating.

Since you have tested so many lenses on various bodies of the same mount type, have you noticed bayonet machining variation too? I wonder how much of this contributed to the camera parallelism issue you noticed on those two bodies.

I do agree that lenses vary a lot more than bodies. But one cannot shop for fine lenses with the demands we have for astro imaging if the body is crooked. I certainly have rejected a fair number of lens copies for decentering, but I've also found lenses that were well centered but the focus plane is tilted. So not wanting to waste an otherwise very good copy, I've found that shimming the lens at the mount for tilt is extremely effective to 'rescue' it from a return. I believe this is a relatively easy fix for tilt compared to decentered/wrongly spaced elements, which we have no ability to do without specialist equipment, and isn't easy even with said equipment.



Sep 06, 2020 at 07:42 PM
Fred Miranda
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p.1 #18 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


inksandpaper wrote:
Thanks Fred!

I'm curious to know how you determined those optimal bodies to be optimal? We were chasing our tails initially, being unable to isolate the body's error from the lens. I'm also wondering by how much those two a7R II and R IV bodies you found were not parallel. Was it slight or quite noticeable? If you could guess in micron's worth, it would be very illuminating.

Since you have tested so many lenses on various bodies of the same mount type, have you noticed bayonet machining variation too? I wonder how much of this contributed to the camera parallelism issue
...Show more →

I've determined those bodies to be out of spec without using a micrometer.
I prefer doing a quick trial and error experiment. If I have 3 or 4 well centered lenses performing equally great on 2 or 3 bodies, I assume the lenses and bodies are optimal. If I add a new body to the mix and the results are different, it's easy to spot the issue.
For example: I have a well centered Sigma 14-24 @14mm performing great on my A7R IV and A7R III bodies but when I tested it on a new A7R II, it was noticeably softer on one side of the image field. I knew that something was off with sensor/mount parallelism.

It's interesting that you found that shimming the lens at the mount for tilt is effective. I've never tried that before because I always assumed that if one element is slightly tilted, that could not be fixed at the mount.

What process do you use to shim the lens at the mount?



Sep 06, 2020 at 08:01 PM
inksandpaper
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p.1 #19 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


realVivek wrote:
The APO Lanthar 50/2 (and the 110/2.5) are sold with a infinity range and with no hard infinity stop like most lenses. There could be a reason for that. It is possible that the infinity mark shifts with temperature due to all the APD elements in those lenses.


Thermal deformation and camera flange distance setup is the reason why you would rather not have an infinity stop in most cases. I've had plenty of problems with infinity hard stop lenses calibrated at the factory to stop at infinity, especially painful was with the Loxia 25, failing entirely to focus at infinity, rather at some 100-120 feet away, before my camera was shimmed, so in the factory state. If you peruse Roger Cicala's flange distance article, you'll see how much the Sony cameras flange distance varies. About 100 microns of variation, excluding the outliers. This is not insignificant. Typically the lens infinity focus stop is calibrated to within 10 microns precision, so there is little meaning to that when the cameras vary by an order of magnitude more.

You'd want your lenses to focus at least a little past infinity to avoid this problem.


It is unclear to me if the lens tilt was detected on camera with a skewed mount or with a “perfect” mount.


If you are referring to my V50 that I adjusted, the lens tilt was determined only after the camera was straightened. It is pointless to try and detect lens tilt on any arbitrary body, because you cannot assume your camera is straight.

Also, generally speaking, the mount, if you are referring to the front mount, is not skewed unless it is damaged (the sensor is the one that is skewed relative to it) and the bayonets are CNC machined and thus reasonably consistent until one wants to exceed the manufacturer's tolerance for parallelism, like we were forced to, since we needed optimal performance at f/2.8 of the most demanding subject matter there is. Very few things in the world are perfect. There isn't a "perfect" mount, as mentioned in the article, even the specially made $8-10k mounts for OLAF at Lensrentals aren't machined to under a single micron precision in 40mm of runout. We just make do and try to balance the issues until they are acceptable.

For perspective, Canon's old spec for flange distance variation is 60 microns. I believe sensor parallelism can be routinely achieved to under 30 microns, with possible outliers. Some assembly methods can be even better, but we are not privy to how the factory chooses to do this. Bayonet CNC machining variation should not exceed 30 microns and could be a lot less. Lenses can go way above 200 microns for tilt and still be considered well-within 'factory spec'.


Edited on Sep 06, 2020 at 08:50 PM · View previous versions



Sep 06, 2020 at 08:05 PM
inksandpaper
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p.1 #20 · Sensor and lens tilt and how to DIY adjust your equipment


Fred Miranda wrote:
I've determined those bodies to be out of spec without using a micrometer.
I prefer doing a quick trial and error experiment. If I have 3 or 4 well centered lenses performing equally great on 2 or 3 bodies, I assume the lenses and bodies are optimal. If I add a new body to the mix and the results are different, it's easy to spot the issue.
For example: I have a well centered Sigma 14-24 @14mm@@ performing great on my A7R IV and A7R III bodies but when I tested it on a new A7R II, it was noticeably
...Show more →

Interesting, thanks. That was also how Joseph Holmes first suspected his camera to be crooked. You can't use a micrometer to measure sensor skew BTW. When you try many combinations, you can spot trends. Two bodies are not so good for a deterministic judgement, three increases the probability you're right by quite a bit.

For what it's worth, my Voigtlander 65mm A-L performs identically on my a7R II and then-new a7R IV (no longer with me), but the a7R IV was actually crooked by about 30 microns. The bayonet machining differences accounted for that. I was very surprised to discover this, not expecting the bayonets to vary by so much. I wish I have several hundred cameras on hand and an assistant to gather more representative data. It's very, very, very complicated - the errors can come from anywhere and negate each other.

When you say 'well-centered', I take it that you mean both optically centered (all four corners/edges perform equally when they are in focus, which you will know by using magnified live view to refocus on only that part of the image field), but I assume you also mean the focus plane is also not tilted (you are not refocusing in the corners during your testing to compensate, which I know you do to check for field curvature in your tests). I feel it's important to distinguish the three issues, centering, tilt and curvature.


It's interesting that you found that shimming the lens at the mount for tilt is effective. I've never tried that before because I always assumed that if one element is slightly tilted, that could not be fixed at the mount.

What process do you use to shim the lens at the mount?

Yes, it is very effective for focus plane tilt. If a lens is centered but field tilted (it doesnt matter at this point to know if one or more elements inside are tilted since it's centered), it is worth saving, because centered lenses are already hard enough to come by, while every lens I've ever seen is tilted (Roger Cicala also says the same about tilted lenses, and his words carry way more weight than mine).

The right kind of test subjects and knowing how to look are important to reveal if the lens is merely tilted and not decentered. And to also reveal to what extent is the focus field curvature contributing to the problem. Field tilt needs to be separated from curvature. You're finding the line of best fit through the curvature and trying to balance that to be parallel to the image place.

https://cacaoeditions.com/your-cameras-and-lenses-are-crooked/#adjusting-your-lenses

This section would be what you are looking for. You need a 'giant ruler' test subject to see and evaluate tilt by finding the focus plane visually, compute it in terms of microns-worth at the image sensor, translate that amount to the screw distances on the lens' bayonet, and then put little ring shims in the correct orientation around the screw holes under the bayonet mount. It takes a little trial and error to get it right, several rounds of adjustments are necessary to get a good correction. This is normal, the folks at Lensrentals/service centres often say the same of any optical adjustment.

I gather the fussiest photographers, usually the astro-folks, have been doing this for decades. What I am proposing is not new, rather it is a refinement of the technique. Marianne Oelund in particular, mentioned in the first post, who is well respected on the DPR forums explained not long ago how she shims her lenses for just the same reasons as us.



Sep 06, 2020 at 08:37 PM
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