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 p.7 #2 · R5 vs 5DSR Landscape and the AA filter - DPR has comparisons | |
Wow. I've been using the 5DsR since it came out and I have to strenuously disagree with a number of your claims here.
wwwest wrote:
To add a bit for future people coming along to this topic, I have used the 5dsr since it was released to cover hundreds of projects for architects. Some basic things that I think should be considered default:
1-ISO never more than 100, it's simple, the 5dsr sucks for iso IQ above its best which is quite nice.
While I default to ISO 100 when possible, I don't hesitate to use higher ISOs with the camera at all. The camera most certainly does not "suck" at ISO 200. Well exposed ISO 100 and 200 images are nearly indistinguishable — even at 100% magnification, and certainly even in big prints. I don't hesitate to use ISO 400 at all, though I'l do some NR in post. 800 even works quite well with good post processing.
I use the thing to photograph wildlife and I've used it extensively for concert photography and at times I have to push to 1600 or even 3200. There's going to be some significant noise at the higher ISOs, but you can deal with it pretty well with the usual NR procedures... and even more effectively with the relatively new Adobe enhance feature.
I'm not claiming, by any stretch of the imagination, that this older camera with its high resolution sensor can equal more modern or lower resolution sensors for noise or DR performance, but let's be real about this.
2-you never, ever, try to pull shadows up because again, iso and its noise are severe limitations. I produced thousands of manual "HDR" finals by the original method of exposure bracketing and layering in photoshop, manually blending the image for exposure detail from shadow to highlights. On average this was 3-5-7 images at a couple stops apart depending on the type of scene and range. If you think of never pulling shadows, this yields a dynamic range of over 14 stops for the 7 layer versions for example. The results were lovely and then still had the flexibility to be pulled during print reproduction for a magazine or large print, etc....Show more →
Again, I strenuously disagree. While you cannot push shadows as far as you can with more modern FF sensors, you can actually push them quite a bit in 5DsR files. I do it all the time. Back in the before times (e.g. the original 5D) I used to have to resort to exposure blending in order to deal with high DR images and handle the noise. But I almost never have to do that with the 5DsR for landscape, wildlife, or event images.
3-my 5dsr basically never got used without a tripod  unless it was for some odd detail vignette and even then might need to be unless bright outside because the exposure would never be above iso 100 and aperture most likely never outside f11 unless intentionally doing some short depth of field shot for effect.
It excels at tripod-based photography, since taking advantage of the image potential of the higher resolution sensor warrants extra care with focus and camera stability. But I use it without the tripod, too — for events and wildlife, all the time. I don't understand your aperture point. If you were concerned about diffraction blur and you use excellent lenses, you might be likely to use something in the f/5.6 range or so. Those smaller apertures don't make anything sharper — they just increase DOF, which is obviously useful on its own with some subjects. But I've shot the thing at apertures from f/1.4 to f/22.
4-like above, always on a tripod, always at f11-16, 99% of my time it had a TSE or the 11-24 EF or before that existed, the sigma 12-24, and before the 17tse existed, that sigma got used a lot more often or I was also stitching the tse 24 for a double shift to maximize angle of view. Imagine the workflow of a 7 exposure bracket...for a damn max shift stitch which means that you actually have minimum 3 zones of stitch for high quality overlap. THEN add in any shot layers purely for a person walking in the right spot because those usually did require and adjusted iso or shutter speed to deal with motion blur if not an actual model working at slow movement speed like we had to on 4x5 film....Show more →
Huh?
5-while on tripod, any exposure lower than pretty fast , also got either the live view method ot more likely "mirror up on first click, shutter release second click" which still required VERY careful fingers to not move the camera body at all, not for worry of motion blur but for the dreaded "out of registration" image layering that would happen.
That's just normal procedure for DSLRs when you want to minimize camera motion to the greatest extent possible — not just the 5DsR, but ANY DSLR. I know what the term "out of registration" means, but I have no idea what you mean here.
My preference for landscape photography is to always work from the tripod, use a remote release, and work in live view mode to eliminate any "shutter shock" or "mirror slap" vibration in the system. Again, that's just normal DSLR procedure. (Mirror slap is nonexistent with mirrorless cameras, but you'll the same thing for shutter shock.)
6-for any long exposure, mirror lock up + at least 2 second delay was my method and if mutliple layer exposures, then also using a remote release so that camera body movement cant happen, but that is purely for layering images and registration than about worry of movement during exposures.
Again, standard procedure for any photographer using a DSLR and working to eliminate vibration from mirror slap used to be to use mirror lockup. The flipping mirror on DSLRs produces vibrations that can compromise sharpness on any DSLR. Mirro lockup eliminates that, and a short wait after locking up was typical for this kind of camera You can do lockup on the 5DsR, but most of us working with the camera on the tripod will simply use live view, which eliminates mirror motion before the shot.
To be clear, I think that today's mirrorless cameras, from all manufacturers, improve on the best DSLRs. No surprise there, since these incorporate newer technologies, including better sensors with lower noise and even more DR, and because eliminating the mirror removes that as a potential source of vibrations. Most people buying a camera today would do best to get a modern mirrorless model.
But the 5DsR is still a perfectly function camera for many purposes and it can produce very high quality images that stand up to large magnifications. I've sold and licensed some quite large images from these cameras, even up to wall sized images for commercial use.
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