I was debating converting an old Canon DSLR to IR for more dramatic B&W landscapes, but I decided to experiment with my unconverted Fuji X-T2 and T3 bodies first to see how I liked it. I read various blog posts that indicated the X-T series have pretty weak IR filters so figured it was worth a try. I picked up a Hoya R72 (720mm) IR filter I'm pretty pleased. I was getting 1-3s exposures at f5.6-f8 at ISO400 on a sunny day, but as slow as 20sec on a rainy day, so not ideal but still practical. Unfortunately my favorite landscape lens, the 16-55 f2.8, turns out to have a diffuse "hot spot" that's very apparent when doing color work, but not too bad for b&w. If I continue I'll need to use my 23 f1.4 or pick up a 14 f2.8 or 16 f1.4 for better results.
Here are a few test pics. I'd appreciate any advice on other filters or glass to try for IR, or experiences getting Fuji bodies converted. I'm thinking dumping the old Canon 6D and picking up a used X-T1 or another X-T2/T20 for conversion would simplify things, gearwise. Definitely an interesting look!
Yes, I find that the images produced in IR are very unique. How often are you planning on shooting IR? I just don't get paying to have camera bodies converted to IR to be able to shoot a few pictures in IR.
Big Dick wrote:
Yes, I find that the images produced in IR are very unique. How often are you planning on shooting IR? I just don't get paying to have camera bodies converted to IR to be able to shoot a few pictures in IR.
I share your concern, which is why I'm starting with a $70 filter first. The reported advantage of converting the camera is you can get much faster shutter speeds with the IR blocking filter on the sensor removed, allowing hand-holding and shots of things that move. But dedicating an entire camera to one technique is a risk, so it has to be something you want to really do often. Still deciding, but intrigued.
Last year, I had a Fuji X-T1 converted to 720nm by KolariVision. I am very pleased with the conversion. I sent it off to them in the late spring or early summer and they had it turned around in three days, if I remember right.
I have to say that I really enjoy the IR more than I thought that I would. It is so cool to see things the way that the IR reveals them. If you want to take a look at some examples, you can view the IR images that I have posted on my website here: https://adelembuttolphgallery.com/gallery/infrared/
There are not many yet, but I do hope to post a few more fairly soon as I just got back from a trip and was able to capture some nice IR images.
My favorite IR lens so far is the Fuji 14mm. It does not hot spot, although you can get some ugly flare if the sun is at the right angle. Kolarivision has a database of lenses and how they perform for IR. It does not have every lens, but is a decent database.
Some time in the future, I will probably update my main camera (Fuji X-T2) to another model and then will have the X-T2 converted to IR. There are just some things that I like better about the X-T2 than the X-T1 and spending $250-$275 for the conversion will be worth it.
Abuttolph wrote:
Last year, I had a Fuji X-T1 converted to 720nm by KolariVision. I am very pleased with the conversion. I sent it off to them in the late spring or early summer and they had it turned around in three days, if I remember right.
I have to say that I really enjoy the IR more than I thought that I would. It is so cool to see things the way that the IR reveals them. If you want to take a look at some examples, you can view the IR images that I have posted on my website here: https://adelembuttolphgallery.com/gallery/infrared/
There are not many yet, but I do hope to post a few more fairly soon as I just got back from a trip and was able to capture some nice IR images.
My favorite IR lens so far is the Fuji 14mm. It does not hot spot, although you can get some ugly flare if the sun is at the right angle. Kolarivision has a database of lenses and how they perform for IR. It does not have every lens, but is a decent database.... ...Show more →
Very nice! Those are great examples of the IR landscapes that first intrigued me. Thanks for the insights. I think I’m going to keep playing with my 720nm filter with my 23 1.4 (another suitable lens in the KolarVision database), possibly picking up a 14mm used if I can find a good one, but I can see getting a converted body down the road. Real shame the 16-55, 10-24 and 60 macro aren’t good for IR. Those are my go-to lenses for landscapes now.
The Fuji 14mm really is a terrific IR lens. I have used it a lot. Yesterday, I went out and tried a couple of other lenses with the IR converted X-T1 and both worked well. One is the Zeiss ZF.2 25mm f/2.8 and the other is the Contax C/Y 35-70mm. No hot spotting with either lens in the shots that I took.
Abuttolph wrote:
The Fuji 14mm really is a terrific IR lens. I have used it a lot. Yesterday, I went out and tried a couple of other lenses with the IR converted X-T1 and both worked well. One is the Zeiss ZF.2 25mm f/2.8 and the other is the Contax C/Y 35-70mm. No hot spotting with either lens in the shots that I took.
Picked one up and I'm pleased so far. Now I'm able to play with false color (the diffuse hot spot on the 16-55 made color a mess). Here are two quick tests at a local botanical gardens.
I find the corners on the 14mm good above f4 for visible light photography, and great at f8, but seeing more obvious vignetting and some color shifts in the corners with IR even at f8, requiring some correction in LR. Is that your experience? Not surprising since lens coatings aren't optimized for IR, but just checking in case I got a bad copy. Might be the Hoya R72 and lens hood I was using too. I'll try without the hood next time.
wsheldon wrote:
Picked one up and I'm pleased so far. Now I'm able to play with false color (the diffuse hot spot on the 16-55 made color a mess). Here are two quick tests at a local botanical gardens.
I find the corners on the 14mm good above f4 for visible light photography, and great at f8, but seeing more obvious vignetting and some color shifts in the corners with IR even at f8, requiring some correction in LR. Is that your experience? Not surprising since lens coatings aren't optimized for IR, but just checking in case I got a bad copy. Might be the Hoya R72 and lens hood I was using too. I'll try without the hood next time.
My converted X-T1 is 720nm and I have also not used another IR filter on the lens, so I cannot speak directly to your question since we would not be comparing quite the same situation. I have only done B&W processing on images shot with my IR camera. I wish that I could provide a better answer for you. Maybe someone else with a 590nm converted camera and the 14mm can chime in with some experience.
BTW, I really like your images and color processing.
Abuttolph wrote:
My converted X-T1 is 720nm and I have also not used another IR filter on the lens, so I cannot speak directly to your question since we would not be comparing quite the same situation. I have only done B&W processing on images shot with my IR camera. I wish that I could provide a better answer for you. Maybe someone else with a 590nm converted camera and the 14mm can chime in with some experience.
BTW, I really like your images and color processing.
Thanks - I appreciate that. The filter I'm using is a 720nm cut-off, though, and the color is from channel swapping in post-processing (false color) not from a full spectrum image, so that's probably a factor. Pushing the pixels that hard probably exaggerates optical weaknesses.
I really like B&W IR images too, but these blue sky false color images and ghostly foliage are fun to play with so thought I'd post some. Lots of options.
I shoot a fair amount of IR w/ a Kolari modified 665nm X-E1 I now have - had a LifePixel "SuperBlue" X-E1 which I sold due to very bad blue fringing issues. I have and love a 16/1.4, but it's got a hot spot in IR. I got a 14/2.8 which is great for IR and general all around wide use. Combined w/ the 23/1.4 which I also have and use, you have a very, very good set of IR capable lenses. FYI - not sure how you white balance. I've made a custom balance on deep green foliage which gives me striking white foliage out of camera. Cheers!
