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Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony

  
 
matsu131
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p.34 #1 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony



A7ii, 28-70 3.5-5.6, AD200 in Glow Beauty dish with diffuser camera right. Large white folding reflector camera left.

Edited on Jan 30, 2020 at 08:32 AM · View previous versions



Jan 30, 2020 at 12:54 AM
AGeoJO
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p.34 #2 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


^^ That’s a sweet image, John! The lighting and the pose, etc. are great. Would you please include or share the exif data for us to take notes as to the rendition/characteristics of certain lenses, please? At the very least, the lens and aperture, I would say. Thank you!


Jan 30, 2020 at 01:22 AM
matsu131
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p.34 #3 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


Thank you Joshua.
Have added and will continue to.

This thread is a great inspiration/help to me.
Thank you and thanks everyone.



Jan 30, 2020 at 08:35 AM
matsu131
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p.34 #4 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


Humor selfie playing with the liquify filter.
Added 200lbs. to bench press, 4 inches off of waistline and people's eyebrow. ( :
Now if I can just figure out how to make myself taller.

A7ii, Tamron 28-75@40mm, Speedlight in gridded 24" softbox camera left.



Jan 31, 2020 at 10:06 AM
fuzzykeys
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p.34 #5 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


I have just recently started using liquify, albeit a bit more conservatively 😂. I’m mostly using it to add just a little extra volume to curls in hair! Works great!

matsu131 wrote:
Humor selfie playing with the liquify filter.
Added 200lbs. to bench press, 4 inches off of waistline and people's eyebrow. ( :
Now if I can just figure out how to make myself taller.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49468108198_9d597e9a01_o.jpg
A7ii, Tamron 28-75@40mm, Speedlight in gridded 24" softbox camera left.




Jan 31, 2020 at 11:05 AM
AGeoJO
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p.34 #6 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


matsu131 wrote:
Humor selfie playing with the liquify filter.
Added 200lbs. to bench press, 4 inches off of waistline and people's eyebrow. ( :
Now if I can just figure out how to make myself taller.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49468108198_9d597e9a01_o.jpg
A7ii, Tamron 28-75@40mm, Speedlight in gridded 24" softbox camera left.


Probably the easiest way to make a person taller (within reasons, of course) would be in LR by changing the aspect slider. For sure don't go more than +15. Of course, it is more stretching than anything else but still...



________________________________________________



Another image of the cowgirl theme...




Yeehaw!




Jan 31, 2020 at 11:21 AM
waterden
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p.34 #7 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


Interesting to see you are using the A7R2 in the studio, Joshua. So do I and I find the tethering cable clamp that comes with the camera to be very helpful. Migration from the camera to Capture One Pro on my Surface Pro is also quick enough although it would probably be faster with USB3. On which point, I have yet to add the A7R4 to the arsenal but am I right in thinking it does not have the cable clamp? Of course, for most models 42mp is more than enough but I think the latest version of Eye AF would be more than handy.

AGeoJO wrote:
Probably the easiest way to make a person taller (within reasons, of course) would be in LR by changing the aspect slider. For sure don't go more than +15. Of course, it is more stretching than anything else but still...

________________________________________________

Another image of the cowgirl theme...




Jan 31, 2020 at 02:25 PM
AGeoJO
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p.34 #8 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


waterden wrote:
Interesting to see you are using the A7R2 in the studio, Joshua. So do I and I find the tethering cable clamp that comes with the camera to be very helpful. Migration from the camera to Capture One Pro on my Surface Pro is also quick enough although it would probably be faster with USB3. On which point, I have yet to add the A7R4 to the arsenal but am I right in thinking it does not have the cable clamp? Of course, for most models 42mp is more than enough but I think the latest version of Eye AF
...Show more

Hi Martin, I have been using 2 of the same cameras, starting with the A7r II. Each time a new iteration of the line becomes available, I sold a copy and keep the backup. As such, I still use the A7r II for portraits a lot, including studio work. Like you mentioned, 42MP for this genre of photography is more than enough. With that said, I have not done any tethering with my gear . It is more a passion to me. As such, there is no client breathing behind my back that needs to see what just has been captured. I do it at my own pace, in other words.

BTW, I am not complaining about the Eye-AF of the camera either. I did assign a button for that feature since it doesn’t pick up eye or eyes automatically as the newer bodies do.

Thank you,
Joshua



Jan 31, 2020 at 03:09 PM
fuzzykeys
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p.34 #9 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


We shot this at an abandoned Cold War missile launch site in Chatsworth, about 30 minutes outside of LA. There was nobody there! Not an easy find in LA! It was absolutely pitch black by the time I shot this so there is no ambient in the shot, only flash. Since it was a bit of a hike to get there, I crammed what I could in a backpack; my Xplor 400, two cheap TT600’s, a travel tripod with a 3/8” stud adapter, my camera and lenses. I carried a Glow 16x48” stripbox. I used the 400 Pro in the stripbox on the travel tripod for the key light and just plopped the speedlights on the floor in the bg with some blue gels on.


One More Step... by Matt and Jess Feinman, on Flickr



Feb 02, 2020 at 12:40 PM
saxguy
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p.34 #10 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


One of my good friend Bernard, taken a couple of weeks ago at an event I attended.








Edited on Feb 02, 2020 at 01:56 PM · View previous versions



Feb 02, 2020 at 01:50 PM
 


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saxguy
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p.34 #11 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


Not totally happy with this one, but I liked the image. Missed focus on the eye for some reason even with EYE AF and had a filter on the front of my 50 1.4 ZA which caused some flaring issues.







Feb 02, 2020 at 01:56 PM
fuzzykeys
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p.34 #12 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


X-posted to the big FE images thread but thought I would share a fun little color grading hack I discovered here as well.

In Photoshop, I used the eye dropper tool to sample a bit of the reddish orange color that the neon light was casting against the wall. Then I created a new solid color adjustment layer which was automatically filled with the color I had just sampled. I set the blend mode to soft light, and reduced the fill to about 20-25%. I then inverted the layer mask so that it was fully opaque black and the effect was not visible. Finally, I just painted white on the mask with a soft brush at 30% opacity and 30% fill to add a little more of that orange glow where I wanted it in the frame, letting it freely spill onto her hair and shoulders to accent the rim lighting. It took about one minute to do!

Cheers,
Matt


Monday...back to work by Matt and Jess Feinman, on Flickr



Feb 04, 2020 at 02:19 PM
AGeoJO
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p.34 #13 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


fuzzykeys wrote:
X-posted to the big FE images thread but thought I would share a fun little color grading hack I discovered here as well.

In Photoshop, I used the eye dropper tool to sample a bit of the reddish orange color that the neon light was casting against the wall. Then I created a new solid color adjustment layer which was automatically filled with the color I had just sampled. I set the blend mode to soft light, and reduced the fill to about 20-25%. I then inverted the layer mask so that it was fully opaque black and the effect was
...Show more

Excellent image, Matt! Thank you for the PP tip. Are you using the masking tool of PS or another software?

Joshua



Feb 04, 2020 at 03:16 PM
fuzzykeys
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p.34 #14 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


AGeoJO wrote:
Excellent image, Matt! Thank you for the PP tip. Are you using the masking tool of PS or another software?

Joshua


Thanks Joshua! I just used a regular PS layer mask and the paint brush tool at 0% hardness. I usually find that to be sufficient for most quick luminosity and color adjustments in PS as a bit of a loose mask helps to smooth over the edit and reduce the possibility of halo artifacts. If I need to make a super precise selection, I am finding the latest iteration of the PS "select and mask" feature to be very accurate with the refine edge brush, but honestly I very rarely use it.

For any masking tasks that are more complex than just painting white with a brush on a black layer mask, 90% of the time I find that using luminosity and color masks as in intermediate masking step before ultimately just painting with a brush to be much faster and more efficient. It's basically only when I need to make a precise selection that can't be narrowed down in a few seconds by including or excluding certain colors and/or luminosities that I will resort to a detailed pixel-based masking approach with "select and mask." So if I need to select a complex dark brown object against a dark brown background for example, I will get into the "select and mask" options.

This may seem a bit over-complicated and technical but I swear it saves me a huge amount of time and has made Photoshop into so such more of a fluid and creative tool for me regardless of the photographed subject. End disclaimer.

For example, let's say you would like to emphasize some highlights in a model's hair to accentuate some curls and make them look more three dimensional. Normally I would create a curves adjustment layer, drag the curve up to increase the brightness, invert the mask of the adjustment layer from white to black (command/control + I), and then just paint with white on the highlights to brighten them. But let's say there is a lot of blue sky poking through the hair and you are seeing unwanted artifacts from inadvertently brightening the sky. Rather than trying to make a precise selection of the hair or painting tediously with a super tiny brush, I will just use Lumenzia or PS's built in "select color range" to make a blue selection with one or two clicks, invert that selection and then paint with white on my black mask as I would have otherwise. PS will just ignore the blue pixels as I add white paint to reveal the curves adjustment where I want it.

Similarly, let's say you wanted to darken a shadow on a model's cheek to add a little more 3D depth to the face or maybe even add a slight touch of red but only to that shadow area. I'll create a curves or color adjustment layer, invert it's layer mask to black, make a luminosity selection of the darker midtones and then just loosely paint white over the area that I want to adjust. PS will ignore the brighter pixels that have already been excluded by the luminosity selection. Even better, the adjustment will be naturally feathered as the darkest pixels will be affected the most, the somewhat dark pixels proportionally less, and the brightest pixels will not be affected at all. It's ultimately a simple technique but it's very fast, accurate and there are so many awesome ways to use it...color grading, exposure blending, compositing, landscape editing, astrophotography editing, portrait retouching...it's great!

To illustrate how precise you can actually be with this method, you can even stack multiple luminosity and color masks by putting your adjustment layer into a group by itself and adding a mask to the group! Say you want to darken some shadows and brighten the highlights on a complex shaped rock silhouetted against a bright blue sky to give it more 3D pop while leaving the sky intact. Easy. Make a luminosity mask of the brighter tones (1 click), apply it to the mask of a curves adjustment layer (1 click), put the curves into a group (command + G), make a blue selection (1-2 clicks) and invert the blue selection (command + I). Now you can either a) sloppily paint on the group mask with white to make a very precise selection of only the highlights on the rock or b) apply the negative blue mask to the group, put the group in a group, and continue to refine. Maybe you are finding that there is actually a part of the highlight on the rock that was a bit overexposed and brightening it is causing problems. You can eliminate just those extreme highlights from the adjustment in a group mask with two clicks. So now in just a few seconds and without any manual masking, you are telling PS I want to affect the bright pixels -> but not any blue pixels -> oh and also ignore the pixels that are brighter than X threshold. All you need to do precisely impact the highlights you want is to select the topmost clean black mask and click on the rock once with a big white brush at 100% opacity. You will have applied your adjustment to what ultimately turned out to be a pretty sophisticated selection, but it took very little time and would have been tedious or impossible otherwise. Lumenzia also has a nice feature that will allow you to collapse and merge group masks into one layer mask once you are done so you can clean up your layers panel if you so desire.

There ways to do all that without Lumenzia but they are way more complicated. Lumenzia will also let you make selections based on saturation or vibrance. You can also make what's called a "difference" selection where Lumenzia will analyze the luminance of pixels in relation to the pixels immediately adjacent to them. It is kind of similar to telling PS to find edges but more versatile and incredibly accurate at this. In practice, you can select all of the pimples on someone's arm almost immediately and then reduce their red saturation or slightly brighten them for a super quick and dirty retouch. In another scenario, Lumenzia was extremely helpful to isolate stars from the sky to reduce shadow noise more precisely and get a little more pop out of the stars.

Anyway, that's a lot of info but hopefully it's interesting or helpful to y'all! I'm always happy to discuss!

Cheers,
Matt



Feb 04, 2020 at 07:01 PM
AGeoJO
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p.34 #15 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


fuzzykeys wrote:
Thanks Joshua! I just used a regular PS layer mask and the paint brush tool at 0% hardness. I usually find that to be sufficient for most quick luminosity and color adjustments in PS as a bit of a loose mask helps to smooth over the edit and reduce the possibility of halo artifacts. If I need to make a super precise selection, I am finding the latest iteration of the PS "select and mask" feature to be very accurate with the refine edge brush, but honestly I very rarely use it.

For any masking tasks that are more complex than
...Show more


Wow, Matt, thank you for the explanation, buddy! For whatever reasons, I found the masking tool of PS is not that accurate. Or better said, it feels less refined, especially for the area around the hair. I came across a marketing blurb from Topaz the other day about their new masking software. So, I thought.... Hm, I have to look into Lumenzia, too, it seems. Thank you again, Matt.

Joshua



Feb 04, 2020 at 07:30 PM
saxguy
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p.34 #16 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


AGeoJO wrote:
Wow, Matt, thank you for the explanation, buddy! For whatever reasons, I found the masking tool of PS is not that accurate. Or better said, it feels less refined, especially for the area around the hair. I came across a marketing blurb from Topaz the other day about their new masking software. So, I thought.... Hm, I have to look into Lumenzia, too, it seems. Thank you again, Matt.

Joshua

I really have to learn how to use Photoshop.




Feb 04, 2020 at 07:53 PM
fuzzykeys
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p.34 #17 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


AGeoJO wrote:
Wow, Matt, thank you for the explanation, buddy! For whatever reasons, I found the masking tool of PS is not that accurate. Or better said, it feels less refined, especially for the area around the hair. I came across a marketing blurb from Topaz the other day about their new masking software. So, I thought.... Hm, I have to look into Lumenzia, too, it seems. Thank you again, Matt.

Joshua


My pleasure! Topaz mask AI looks pretty amazing, but it definitely seems more oriented towards compositing and precisely selecting the edges of objects rather than selecting tonal qualities within objects to manipulate those, which is really the beauty of Lumenzia imo. I think the latter is probably more versatile for general photography editing but I would be all over it if I were doing more heavy duty compositing, cutting subjects out of shots, plopping them into entirely different environments, color grading to match, etc. I generally have my hands full with what I've captured in camera haha but that does sound like a fun avenue to explore. It's certainly a vital skill for certain types of photography.



Feb 04, 2020 at 08:08 PM
fuzzykeys
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p.34 #18 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


saxguy wrote:
I really have to learn how to use Photoshop.


There's no denying that it's a very deep program and can be intimidating at first. The more I learn, the more I realize how much more there is to learn. But hey, isn't that true of photography in general? A monkey can press a button to trip the shutter but the rest of all this is pretty complicated!

Some people recommend starting with the basics in PS, but I would start by learning a specific process that you know will benefit your style of photography or help you overcome a wall that you've hit in your raw developer. There are a lot of great tutorials out there that will help you find a repeatable way to accomplish something useful, kind of like a recipe. Even if you don't completely understand how you are getting the result, you've added a new tool to your photographic arsenal. Pick another thing that interests you, watch a few videos about that, etc. You will pick up the basics along the way and you can always search in the manual if a specific term is totally unfamiliar to you. Sooner rather than later, you'll start mixing and matching steps from different techniques to accomplish new things. I have been bumbling my way through it over the last year or so and now I really enjoy using it! It's also great that we have such an open and civilized (rare on the internet!) community here where we can ask questions and learn from each other, so don't be shy either!



Feb 04, 2020 at 08:57 PM
AGeoJO
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p.34 #19 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


fuzzykeys wrote:
There's no denying that it's a very deep program and can be intimidating at first. The more I learn, the more I realize how much more there is to learn. But hey, isn't that true of photography in general? A monkey can press a button to trip the shutter but the rest of all this is pretty complicated!

Some people recommend starting with the basics in PS, but I would start by learning a specific process that you know will benefit your style of photography or help you overcome a wall that you've hit in your raw developer. There are a
...Show more

Great advise! That’s the way I learned, as well. PS is great to do selected tasks in my workflow but I would say that I rely more on LR to do a lot of what I need to get done.

I know that people’s requirements or preferences vary widely but let me put it this way, I could live with just LR alone but it would be hard for me to do everything in just PS.



Feb 04, 2020 at 10:08 PM
milkod2001
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p.34 #20 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony


matsu131 wrote:
Humor selfie playing with the liquify filter.
Added 200lbs. to bench press, 4 inches off of waistline and people's eyebrow. ( :
Now if I can just figure out how to make myself taller.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49468108198_9d597e9a01_o.jpg
A7ii, Tamron 28-75@40mm, Speedlight in gridded 24" softbox camera left.


'Now if I can just figure out how to make myself taller.' Taller? Say no more




Feb 05, 2020 at 06:05 AM
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