henry albert wrote:
Is anyone having trouble with right hand shooting position? I couldn't get comfortable with my rental. The body is just too small for me. It needs to be both wider and taller. If I hold it with my palm against the end of the body, the shutter and AF buttons are two close, and my pinkie is wrapped over the battery door. The thumb groove doesn't point toward AF/ON as it does in my other bodies. During operation my palm is forced away from the body so my finger and thumb can reliably push the buttons. That shifts most of the weight to my pinkie and causes me to cock my wrist a little, which is apparently the cause of the soreness.
This is all a bummer because I really like the Z6. There are some things about it that bug me, but nothing too serious or that can't be worked around. The ergonomics are another story, however. For now they're a deal killer. If the Z6 was in a D750-sized body I'd be all over it....Show more →
The form factor of mirrorless in general is no doubt different, but this is a difference that many consider a to be a desired attribute. Sometimes the smaller size of buttons and knobs can be a challenge for me (at least one too many surgeries due to motorcycle wrecks and bite work with competition German Shepherds). Having said that, the Nikon Z series is much less of a problem than the Sony a7 series and the seemingly endless menus and/or workflow issues I perceived with that line. The Nikon is just enough bigger/better designed to even surpass the excellent Oly OM-D E-M1 II and Fuji XT-2 for my personal use.
I do love the build quality of the Z6 and it is great to be able to go down a size or two in backpacks vs what I used with the D4s and D1x. I think that once I spend enough time with getting to know the Z6, it may qualify as my favorite handling camera ever.
Of course this is all a very subjective post and I do get why some need/want a larger body. But this one is designed very well IMO!
henry albert wrote:
Is anyone having trouble with right hand shooting position? I couldn't get comfortable with my rental. The body is just too small for me. It needs to be both wider and taller. If I hold it with my palm against the end of the body, the shutter and AF buttons are two close, and my pinkie is wrapped over the battery door. The thumb groove doesn't point toward AF/ON as it does in my other bodies. During operation my palm is forced away from the body so my finger and thumb can reliably push the buttons. That shifts most of the weight to my pinkie and causes me to cock my wrist a little, which is apparently the cause of the soreness.
This is all a bummer because I really like the Z6. There are some things about it that bug me, but nothing too serious or that can't be worked around. The ergonomics are another story, however. For now they're a deal killer. If the Z6 was in a D750-sized body I'd be all over it....Show more →
I personally really like the ergos of the Z6/Z7 body (ended up just getting another Z7 haha).
However, I have very specific things that I've been frustrated with on my Fuji and Sony bodies that the Nikon body improves on. The deeper grip, nicely padded thumb rest, AF joystick, and slightly taller body than my A7R3 all combine to a body that feels better in hand. The only thing I really found annoying is that they got rid of the dedicated AF mode button/switch on the left side of the camera body, and that the thumb rest doesn't feel quite as solid as could because it doubles as the memory card door.
Another thing that will likely impact your comfort shooting with the Z is if you're using adapted lenses or the native glass. The ergos are really optimized for the smaller S lenses as the weight balance and such feels off when using say the FTZ + 28 f1.4E
Has been too long since I setup the garage "studio" but needed some photos of my daughters for a Christmas card. Here is my favorite of the bunch, of my youngest. The girls didn't give me much time before they quit listening and my setup was less than ideal, so it's not a great picture in terms of lighting or the hair in the face, but wanted to share because I still like it.
EDIT: Also some weird aliasing because my workflow is all messed up due to LR not supporting Z6 files yet. I'm wishing for this at any point now.
cvrle59 wrote:
Yes, and if I go as low as 1/25 or 1/30, I can see similar results with IBIS On/Off, which tells me that IBIS is not helping, but those I listed up show worse results with IBIS On,
so I focused on those more, to point to the problem, we found when we tested it.
If you go faster, like 1/200 or higher, you see almost no difference, but at this speeds you're able to get decent sharpness without IBIS.
All tests were done hand held, and we tried to be as stable as possible, so if you use tripod you turn IBIS Off, anyway.
i just tried this test, and all the IBIS shots were sharper and cleaner than that of the non ibis. handholding, keeping the viewfinder to my eye and just switching ibis on and off and taking a shot, same exact technique, holding my breathe and all. saw no difference at 1/200th down to 1/60th, then the ibis started to win out at 1/30 and below. went down to 1/2.5th and shake was apparent in the non IBIS shot, and sharp with the IBIS shot, tested all the way down to 1 second, which is very strange hand holding btw. my results were better with IBIS on than not, albiet still not good enough for me, theres still a little bit of shake. What was interesting though was with Electronic first curtain at 1sec, the shots got worse with or without IBIS. since i couldnt really tell when the first curtain went off, and the second curtain seemed to clack moments later. this was on a z6 and 35S.
turbodude wrote:
i just tried this test, and all the IBIS shots were sharper and cleaner than that of the non ibis. handholding, keeping the viewfinder to my eye and just switching ibis on and off and taking a shot, same exact technique, holding my breathe and all. saw no difference at 1/200th down to 1/60th, then the ibis started to win out at 1/30 and below. went down to 1/2.5th and shake was apparent in the non IBIS shot, and sharp with the IBIS shot, tested all the way down to 1 second, which is very strange hand holding btw. my results were better with IBIS on than not, albiet still not good enough for me, theres still a little bit of shake. What was interesting though was with Electronic first curtain at 1sec, the shots got worse with or without IBIS. since i couldnt really tell when the first curtain went off, and the second curtain seemed to clack moments later. this was on a z6 and 35S. ...Show more →
The difference in our test was that we did it with 24-70S, at 70mm. If we didn't try second Z6 and Z7 in the store, I would say, my unit was bad, but we did.
I've done it numerous times home, and results were worse with IBIS On, every single time.
It is confusing...
cvrle59 wrote:
The difference in our test was that we did it with 24-70S, at 70mm. If we didn't try second Z6 and Z7 in the store, I would say, my unit was bad, but we did.
I've done it numerous times home, and results were worse with IBIS On, every single time.
It is confusing...
Yeah that is weird. I can only attest to my two cameras and then both seem to have IBIS that helps not hurt, but I also don't use the 24-70S, not that it should be of any difference.
i miss when players used to answer the call of the bell, when they deserved it. Wilson will only throw down with smaller players, not players that are in his weight class. That's what leads to injury type hits, because players have to exact their justice in other ways. Back in the day, if you had beef, you handled business and then went on playing the game
Try mechanical and IBIS on, at 1/60, 1/100, or 1/125, then change IBIS to off, and shoot at same shutter speeds.
You may get surprised when you get sharper images with IBIS off.
We tried it with two Z6's, and one Z7, so it wasn't just my camera.
Flat Picture in camera preset will show the most pronounced difference.
I don't have a Z6, but what your describing with IBIS sounds similar to when VR acts badly on a Nikon 300 f4 PF. Those same shutter speeds are affected using a DSLR like a Nikon D7200. Under those conditions, you do indeed obtain better images with VR turned off.
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I got the Z6 with 24-70 and FTZ. Today I took 24-70 and 2 primes (28/105) with me.
24-70 is really solid and I'm pleasantly surprised with the IQ. No issues focusing in the dimly lit forest. Same with the primes - focus fast and accurate (no hunting) on both 28 and 105. I used mostly AF-S, back button focusing.
IBIS is really great.
NEFs converted with DNG converter and very slight modifications in LR. Full size exports are on my flickr.
All photos handheld, not much cropping or adjustments.
Z6'er's, some seriously beautiful pics you all have posted up. I have one from LensRentals and I'm trying it out. As it happened, I also have from LR, an EOS-R for comparison. So, any comments any of you might care to share with me as to your recommendations about which to make a keeper, I'l be grateful for. To help with that, keep in mind the following:
1. I have no interest in video - ZERO (I have a Mavic Pro drone for that).
2. I already have Nikon gear, the D500, 28-300VR, and the 300/4 AF-S with TC II converter - it is plenty fast enough for me to acquire BIF's and aircraft. i also have an unusable on the Z6, 50/1.4 AF-D that pretty much stays on my F6.
3. My intended use for Z6 or EOS-R is event photography, low light/reduced illumination, night street photography with ambient illumination, as well as daytime portraiture. None of what I photograph merits $, strictly for family, friends and post up here and Flickr, or 500px, etc.
Unlike with the Z6, I realize that with the EOS-R, I'm investing in a new system, completely, (having had to sell out my Canon collections several years ago to pay for my GRD's life-saving surgery.) While that's an issue, I have some other disposable gear available to sell (non-photographic )
I really like the 24-105 Lens. 24-70 on Z6, not so much. If I had all my old MF lenses, it would be a no brainer and I wouldn't even be writing this. .
So I'm interested in your thoughts, especially from those of you who have also tried out the EOS-R.
ive tried the EOS-R at the US Open, with a good friend and colleague, for my uses, i hated it. frame rate is too slow, and way too many focus points with no real way to choose them effectively and in a timely manner. I shoot sports, events, and entertainment, and i now own 2 z6's. but i also had lenses from 8mm all the way to 600mm in F mount, so im pretty brand bias. but im super jealous of the 28-70 f2.
anthonysemone wrote:
Z6'er's, some seriously beautiful pics you all have posted up. I have one from LensRentals and I'm trying it out. As it happened, I also have from LR, an EOS-R for comparison. So, any comments any of you might care to share with me as to your recommendations about which to make a keeper, I'l be grateful for. To help with that, keep in mind the following:
1. I have no interest in video - ZERO (I have a Mavic Pro drone for that).
2. I already have Nikon gear, the D500, 28-300VR, and the 300/4 AF-S with TC II converter - it is plenty fast enough for me to acquire BIF's and aircraft. i also have an unusable on the Z6, 50/1.4 AF-D that pretty much stays on my F6.
3. My intended use for Z6 or EOS-R is event photography, low light/reduced illumination, night street photography with ambient illumination, as well as daytime portraiture. None of what I photograph merits $, strictly for family, friends and post up here and Flickr, or 500px, etc.
Unlike with the Z6, I realize that with the EOS-R, I'm investing in a new system, completely, (having had to sell out my Canon collections several years ago to pay for my GRD's life-saving surgery.) While that's an issue, I have some other disposable gear available to sell (non-photographic )
I really like the 24-105 Lens. 24-70 on Z6, not so much. If I had all my old MF lenses, it would be a no brainer and I wouldn't even be writing this. .
So I'm interested in your thoughts, especially from those of you who have also tried out the EOS-R.
As you mentioned you are primarily looking to get the Z6 or EOS-R for event photography, one thing I'd be sure to test out is how you feel about low light AF acquisition with on-camera speedlite. This is where your D500 plus something like a 17-55 f2.8 might still be preferable, as the grid type af beam is superior for low light event photography in my experience.
I personally just found the controls on the EOS R to be really odd. Almost like an industrial designer from the late 90s tried to design a quasi-futuristic camera. Beyond me how that touch strip got into the final version rather than a simple AF joystick.
anthonysemone wrote:
As it happened, I also have from LR, an EOS-R for comparison. So, any comments any of you might care to share with me as to your recommendations about which to make a keeper, I'l be grateful for.
anthony
Anthony,
IMHO there is nothing critical important in EOS R to move in that direction. Better to stick with Nikon from various reasons. Sharing batteries, charger, cards (XQD)... Z6 has Nikon DNA in its menu, handling, operating, rings rotating same direction ... when necessary you can use the glass from D500... you can also buy back some MF glass... it's a real pleasure using that on Z6 with full magnification at hand, right in EVF.
Although not directly related to the Z6 because it is comparing the Z7, this video has some interesting discussion of the Canon R. Just ignore the comparison parts.
anthonysemone wrote:
Z6'er's, some seriously beautiful pics you all have posted up. I have one from LensRentals and I'm trying it out. As it happened, I also have from LR, an EOS-R for comparison. So, any comments any of you might care to share with me as to your recommendations about which to make a keeper, I'l be grateful for. To help with that, keep in mind the following:
1. I have no interest in video - ZERO (I have a Mavic Pro drone for that).
2. I already have Nikon gear, the D500, 28-300VR, and the 300/4 AF-S with TC II converter - it is plenty fast enough for me to acquire BIF's and aircraft. i also have an unusable on the Z6, 50/1.4 AF-D that pretty much stays on my F6.
3. My intended use for Z6 or EOS-R is event photography, low light/reduced illumination, night street photography with ambient illumination, as well as daytime portraiture. None of what I photograph merits $, strictly for family, friends and post up here and Flickr, or 500px, etc.
Unlike with the Z6, I realize that with the EOS-R, I'm investing in a new system, completely, (having had to sell out my Canon collections several years ago to pay for my GRD's life-saving surgery.) While that's an issue, I have some other disposable gear available to sell (non-photographic )
I really like the 24-105 Lens. 24-70 on Z6, not so much. If I had all my old MF lenses, it would be a no brainer and I wouldn't even be writing this. .
So I'm interested in your thoughts, especially from those of you who have also tried out the EOS-R.
There is a video review on DPR comparing the Canon, Nikon and the Sony A7iii. The Canon finished in last place in almost every category. Given that you already have Nikon lenses and accessories, I think this may end up being a no brainer for you.
Thank you all for your comments....For all that I like about the Canon, the fact that I have so much Nikon gear and so much familiarity with it, and, hence, so less expensive, relative to Canon, along with 5-axis IBIS, certainly argues for the Z6. I've got them both for the next week or so. It'l be fun comparing them.
If you're using a Z for event photography, make sure the event is either indoors or held during warm weather. Cuz there is no way you can operate the camera with winter gloves.
