k-h.a.w wrote:
Optically is there a difference between the FE and M version of the lens?
My preference would be to use the TAP to autofocus the 40/1.2 lens.
Any issues with that approach?
K-H.
I have been using the m-mount since day one. You get the affect of Sony's sensor stack, but less acutely than the 35 zm 1.4 or wider lenses. I can easily recommended. Wide open I typically don't need sharp corners, and I like the smaller size and price. Obviously it sharpens up stopped down.
Fred Miranda wrote:
The M-version will induce field curvature since it was designed for the thinner sensor stack. Other than that, they should have similar characteristics.
Many thanks Fred for confirming that the M version is designed for the thinner sensor stack of Leica M cameras.
I very much appreciate your feedback.
k-h.a.w wrote:
Many thanks Fred for confirming that the M version is designed for the thinner sensor stack of Leica M cameras.
I very much appreciate your feedback.
K-H.
You're welcome. There are a couple side-by-side tests showing this behavior on this thread.
Aug 15, 2018 at 10:08 PM
imagesfromobjects Offline • • • • Upload & Sell: Off
nehemiahphoto wrote:
I have been using the m-mount since day one. You get the affect of Sony's sensor stack, but less acutely than the 35 zm 1.4 or wider lenses. I can easily recommended. Wide open I typically don't need sharp corners, and I like the smaller size and price. Obviously it sharpens up stopped down.
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
I own a number of Leica M lenses, also in the 50mm and shorter range.
The only one of those I like using on my Sony cameras is the Leica WATE 16-28-21/4.
All the others I have exhibit pretty poor corner performance.
K-H.
Aug 15, 2018 at 10:20 PM
imagesfromobjects Offline • • • • Upload & Sell: Off
Dunno about "fair", but it's backordered just about everywhere and there are a lot of people who wouldn't mind a little glitch if it saves a few bucks, so I'd guess it'd still sell close to 900 if it's otherwise ok. Mind you this is coming from the guy who intentionally disabled the electronics, soooo.
Possibly dumb question, but have you tried cleaning the contacts on the lens and in your camera? Tried other lenses that behave notmally?
chinoamigo wrote:
Thanks for the reply.. I just talked to Photo Village (Voigtlander importer) and they said they would have to send it to Japan for repair . I'm considering just selling it (obviously letting people know about this issue) instead of getting it repaired b/c I won't know the repair price until the lens is returned fixed. What would you guys think would be a fair price for it?
Thanks for all the great info and images showing all this lens is (and isn't) capable of. I've recently picked one up with the A7iii. Coming from from 5 years of various Fuji X usage I can say I am very happy with this camera and lens.
I don't want to hijack this thread but i'd be interested for those using the FE mount of this lens how you have your focus magnifier setup and how you typically use it. I find for most usage I can get accurate focus without the magnifier so I turned MF assist off as it interrupts shooting. I then assigned Focus Magnifier to the Multi Slc Ctr Button. But it doesn't work in the same fashion as MF assist as it takes 4 button pushes to get through the process. Is there any way to assign a button to activate MF assist so that it only zooms when the button is held down?
I've only had it a couple days and there is a seemingly a million ways to set this thing up which is great. I just hope i've missed something and this can be done.
sticknpuck wrote:
Thanks for all the great info and images showing all this lens is (and isn't) capable of. I've recently picked one up with the A7iii. Coming from from 5 years of various Fuji X usage I can say I am very happy with this camera and lens.
I don't want to hijack this thread but i'd be interested for those using the FE mount of this lens how you have your focus magnifier setup and how you typically use it. I find for most usage I can get accurate focus without the magnifier so I turned MF assist off as it interrupts shooting. I then assigned Focus Magnifier to the Multi Slc Ctr Button. But it doesn't work in the same fashion as MF assist as it takes 4 button pushes to get through the process. Is there any way to assign a button to activate MF assist so that it only zooms when the button is held down?
I've only had it a couple days and there is a seemingly a million ways to set this thing up which is great. I just hope i've missed something and this can be done.
I really like auto-magnification which gets triggered by rotating the focusing ring. So, first I move the focusing point towards my subject and then I rotate the ring until my subject is sharp. I also use focus peaking. (usually at low setting)
I've been using this technique for many years and very rarely miss focus. It's quick, easy and accurate with static subjects.
To help even further, I changed "Creative Style", "Standard" setting to Contrast +1 and Sharpening +3. (This will only affect jpeg images which I never use)
Fred Miranda wrote:
I really like auto-magnification which gets triggered by rotating the focusing ring. So, first I move the focusing point towards my subject and then I rotate the ring until my subject is sharp. I also use focus peaking. (usually at low setting)
I've been using this technique for many years and very rarely miss focus. It's quick, easy and accurate with static subjects.
To help even further, I changed "Creative Style", "Standard" setting to Contrast +1 and Sharpening +3. (This will only affect jpeg images which I never use)
Hey why do you change the Creative Style? Just curious.
Well I finally broke down and picked up the VM version as well. So here is a comparison test of my back fence on a tripod, refocused for each shot, and profile corrections disabled. I show each lens at the same aperture so you can use the Sony's EXIF to know the VM.
Do the experts here agree that my VM version seems somewhat decentered (right corners look worse than left to me)?
Handling differences: 14.5 oz vs 12.8 oz (w/ dumb adapter) or 15.9 oz (w/ techart), the aperture rings rotate opposite directions, and the MF resistance is a bit more than my personal ideal on the FE and a bit less than that ideal on the VM.
Fred Miranda wrote:
I really like auto-magnification which gets triggered by rotating the focusing ring. So, first I move the focusing point towards my subject and then I rotate the ring until my subject is sharp. I also use focus peaking. (usually at low setting)
I've been using this technique for many years and very rarely miss focus. It's quick, easy and accurate with static subjects.
To help even further, I changed "Creative Style", "Standard" setting to Contrast +1 and Sharpening +3. (This will only affect jpeg images which I never use)
I may add, that I'm using "Shot Result Preview" set to C3. While pressed it does not magnify when rotating the focus ring. Very useful for prefocus or shots in motion.
sebbe wrote:
I may add, that I'm using "Shot Result Preview" set to C3. While pressed it does not magnify when rotating the focus ring. Very useful for prefocus or shots in motion.
scottsoapbox wrote:
And the rest of the fence comparison.
That's great and induced field curvature is even noticeable at these resized images.
Can you post a 1:1 crop showing the extreme edges comparing the E vs M mounts wide open?
These results could of course change depending on distance.
sebbe wrote:
I may add, that I'm using "Shot Result Preview" set to C3. While pressed it does not magnify when rotating the focus ring. Very useful for prefocus or shots in motion.
Thanks Sebbe, I will try this! Although backwards, it may accomplish the same thing. Will the shutter still fire while pressed?
sebbe wrote:
I may add, that I'm using "Shot Result Preview" set to C3. While pressed it does not magnify when rotating the focus ring. Very useful for prefocus or shots in motion.
I tried it and it's great. I prefer adding "Shot Result Preview" to "C2" because it's close to the shutter button and I can access it with my right hand (while focusing with my left one). Whenever I don't want the auto-magnify to take effect, I just press and hold C2, focus, and then press the shutter button to take the shot.
. I'm considering just selling it (obviously letting people know about this issue) instead of getting it repaired b/c I won't know the repair price until the lens is returned fixed. What would you guys think would be a fair price for it?
