Well, to anyone thinking about buying this. Don't do it unless you're only adapting super light lenses like the pancake EF40mm STM. Also IBIS doesnt work and I don't think the USB connection even does anything (no future updates) lol
When it wasn't randomly disconnecting (due to the loose play lens adapter side), it did transfer the EXIF data well and aperture control was good.
Otherwise it's a lottery.
Also some more samples of Rokinon 85 1.2 SP EF + UV filter, just some snaps before I was eaten by mosquitos.
Pentax 150mm f/3.5 wide open on GFX100s.
Both handheld at slow speeds (1/18s and 1/24s respectively).
This lens is amazing for 5 elements in 5 groups with no fancy glass or aspherical elements.
I'm still thinking about buying the 9mm and removing the petals but rn I'm quite happy with the 14 for my UWA option. The 52mm filters are really convenient for when I need to do long exposures or cpl (extra filters add a negiglible overlap on the already existing vignette). And it's tiny 58 x 55 mm and under 220g after the surgery.
omg, I think this Tokina Opera 50 1.4 is the holy grail of adapted lenses rofl
Full coverage 33x44 even with hood, weather sealed (not that it matters lol), mechanical focus ring, sharp WO, good mfd, beautiful rendering, nice, colors, relatively compact size.
There is a slight issue of it potentially frying smart adapters, so I'm testing it on a dumb adapter for now.
I kind of want to try it on the steelsring, but if it breaks I can't sell it. I mean I guess I can have a weather sealed dumb adapter
EDIT: it looks like the Metabones T Smart adapter ef-gf specifically says it works with the Tokina Opera. Now the question is do I sell the steelsring and buy the Metabones or risk the steelsring?
EDIT2: well, I tried it . Bad news it that it sounds like clucking tommyknockers in video and AF-C. Good news is that it hasn't fried yet, and the AF-C despite the clucking, is pretty accurate. The best news is that the fit is damn near OE! The weather sealing gaskets on both the lens and the adapter provide a very snug fit (without it being like metal to metal scraping). I'm going to keep testing the Steelsring and remove it for sale for the time being now.
ftllens wrote:
I kind of want to try it on the steelsring, but if it breaks I can't sell it. I mean I guess I can have a weather sealed dumb adapter
EDIT: it looks like the Metabones T Smart adapter ef-gf specifically says it works with the Tokina Opera. Now the question is do I sell the steelsring and buy the Metabones or risk the steelsring?
EDIT2: well, I tried it . Bad news it that it sounds like clucking tommyknockers in video and AF-C. Good news is that it hasn't fried yet, and the AF-C despite the clucking, is pretty accurate. The best news is that the fit is damn near OE! The weather sealing gaskets on both the lens and the adapter provide a very snug fit (without it being like metal to metal scraping). I'm going to keep testing the Steelsring and remove it for sale for the time being now.
I'll go outside tomorrow if there isn't another heat wave. I almost fried indoors today even with A/C....Show more →
All these shots and in the link you provided are at quite close distances. If you have a chance and can test it at longer distances that would be helpful. A lot of lenses have more coverage at close focus distances than at longer focus distances.
Yeah, I'll take some long distance shots today. So far it's promising. I did set it to infinity inside and didn't notice huge vignette.
I'll take some stopped down shots too.
I did see the irix too, if it goes on sale I might try it out lol
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edit:
the steelsring seems to have a weird EFCS glitch, where it shows a dark part (presumably shutter desync) on the top of the frame when EFCS is used outside of A mode. in both P and M mode it shows this (but full mechanical shutter and e-shutter are unaffected). In A mode, EFCS works perfectly too.
at first, I thought it was the lens so I swapped out the opera for my manual rokky and same thing. then swapped out adapter and it was fine. I use A mode 99% of the time and E-shutter or mech when I use M mode so it's not an issue but it's something to be aware of. I haven't tested for this issue on other smart adapters.
I haven't gone outside yet to test the distance shots for the opera but here is an indoor shot at F18 set to infinity to see the vignette (plus a uv filter and the factory hood on): DSCF4206 by Visual Novel, on Flickr
Okay, the EFCS thing is seemingly random, but it's probably being triggered by one of the settings, maybe even the EVF thing. So I got fed up and left it in Mech mode. plus the mosquitos didn't help, so I did -2 to -3ev on some of these for max shutter speed (too lazy to bring tripod)
EDIT: there's a little button on the steelsring that you can hold down as you turn the camera on. it seems to turn it into a dumb adapter and also reset the EFCS issue completely on all modes. I guess this is the temp workaround when this problem arises until they do another firmware.
Samples below taken on GFX100, all default sharpness via C1 185 and processed, last 5 are just exposure no other adjustments. On GFX, you can see up until 2.8 theres some soft vignette (correctable). Also there is extreme corner smearing at infinity (nothing really closer distances).
ftllens wrote:
Samples below taken on GFX100, all default sharpness via C1 185 and processed, last 5 are just exposure no other adjustments. On GFX, you can see up until 2.8 theres some soft vignette (correctable). Also there is extreme corner smearing at infinity (nothing really closer distances).
I know you said "no other adjustments", but I can barely see any vignetting even wide open. Did you correct that, and if so, how much?
I'm mainly concerned about curvature of field at 3-7 meter distance where 99% of all shortish lenses fail. Can you estimate at what distance you shot the shrubbery/bushes?
Makten wrote:
I know you said "no other adjustments", but I can barely see any vignetting even wide open. Did you correct that, and if so, how much?
I'm mainly concerned about curvature of field at 3-7 meter distance where 99% of all shortish lenses fail. Can you estimate at what distance you shot the shrubbery/bushes?
Edit: These two:
[url]https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/link.php?url=https://flic.kr/p/2m5Ss2q[/url]
[url]https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/link.php?url=https://flic.kr/p/2m5NAap[/url]
When the lens is used with a dumb adapter, is the aperture locked wide open? And how does manual focus work? Mechanically coupled?
Yeah, you can't adjust aperture with a dumb adapter, so by default it's WO until you use an EF body and decouple it while it's at your desired f-stop. Focus works even with dumb adapter since it's mechanically linked, short throw but I like it. It's soft stops on mfd and infinity then it won't go past those even tho you can keep turning the ring which is nice.
Minimal adjustment was on the last 5 images, literally moving the exposure slider to make it brighter, the rest I increased contrast white/black levels etc. I did use the in-camera vignette correction to +5 but I don't know if that carries over for RAW to C1, I didn't add anything else in C1 for vignette, but the black adjustment maybe fixed it?
The 1.4 bokeh shot, the white gray thing on bottom is a fence so that brush was a few feet from it, fairly close. The 2.8 bokeh shot, I was literally in the brush so the ones on the bottom were like real close to me, maybe under a foot.
I ordered the Metabones Smart Adapter since it lists Opera being supported. We'll see if that fixes the clonky AF.
ftllens wrote:
Yeah, you can't adjust aperture with a dumb adapter, so by default it's WO until you use an EF body and decouple it while it's at your desired f-stop. Focus works even with dumb adapter since it's mechanically linked, short throw but I like it. It's soft stops on mfd and infinity then it won't go past those even tho you can keep turning the ring which is nice.
Minimal adjustment was on the last 5 images, literally moving the exposure slider to make it brighter, the rest I increased contrast white/black levels etc. I did use the in-camera vignette correction to +5 but I don't know if that carries over for RAW to C1, I didn't add anything else in C1 for vignette, but the black adjustment maybe fixed it?
The 1.4 bokeh shot, the white gray thing on bottom is a fence so that brush was a few feet from it, fairly close. The 2.8 bokeh shot, I was literally in the brush so the ones on the bottom were like real close to me, maybe under a foot.
I ordered the Metabones Smart Adapter since it lists Opera being supported. We'll see if that fixes the clonky AF.
Thanks! For the f/2.8 bokeh shot, I meant distance to the flowers in focus.
If you have the opportunity, it would be great to see an image wide open, focused at ~5 meter distance and with a distant background. That would clearly reveal curvature of field and/or extended DOF towards the edges due to mechanical vignetting (this occurs even with native lenses, to some extent).
Anyway, it looks very promising compared to other 50 mm lenses, even modern designs.
I think it was like 2meters away from the flowers. My metabones is coming on Friday, so if the AF works out and it's not too hot I'll shoot some more with it.
Well the Canon EF 75-300 4-5.6 works alright coverage wise. It's good for video during the day without ND cause it goes to f/51 at 300.
Not a lens you'd want for resolution, but it's cheap and fun to try out and useful for planning composition ahead of time if you're doing location scouting on the light.
Wondering if anyone has recommendations for an equivalent 50mm and 28mm lens. I really didn't like the GF 63mm and have been looking for a replacement. I rented the Metabones expander and the Sigma 50mm f1.4 art but didn't realize it didn't support autofocus. Looks like I could use a an autofocus adapter but then it's too close in FoV to the GF 45. I'm considering the CONTAX 65mm f2.8 but that would be manual focus only. I guess the Nikon 58 f1.4 would get me to a 45 FoV.
I've really grown to enjoy shooting with a 28mm as a walk around lens but not sure what the recommendations would be. Autofocus isn't really necessary since I tend to shoot at f8 or higher generally (at least on full frame). Appreciate any suggestions...
At least on the 50r when I had it slow/noisy AF and build quality were issues I recall. In general I didn't find it had any kind of special quality. Maybe it's better on the 100s?
I tried several Leica M mount 35's but never found one with good coverage. Maybe the Pentax 645 35mm is the best option here even if it's a bit larger not as great for walking around...
ftllens wrote:
What don't you like about the GF63? Something opposite would be the Mitakon 65 1.4 GF Mount.
If you're stopping down to f8, you could try some of the Leica M mount 35-40mms for 28 ish.
