Fred Miranda wrote:
An alternative is set the IBIS aperture setting to 50mm when using one of the above zooms.
TAP aside I was of the impression that over stabilizing is automatically problematic since it induces its own blur no matter what. I think if you're in a moderate light environment, than you're best setting to 35mm, which will help but not fully correct longer focal lengths. If you're in a tough light environment I think you need to set it correctly.
Like others I have a Custom Button set to pick a focal length. My only issue here, is the choice of Auto or Manual for IBIS. I don't like having to change (and remember) the TAP settings to pick a focal length, but if I run manual I'm not used to changing it for my native lenses. Any work arounds appreciated?
I use manual as it's pretty easy to go from each of my 3 primes when I switch lenses 35 f22/50 f25 and 85 f29. I'm usually on infinity anyway so that makes it easy. The only thing I may have to do is switch to manual shutter if light is low otherwise it could be a long exposure getting it setup at those f stops so I leave ISIS on auto.
Okay my iPad I lost my curser. This is going to be fun editing my posts now. Lol
Mathieu18 wrote:
TAP aside I was of the impression that over stabilizing is automatically problematic since it induces its own blur no matter what. I think if you're in a moderate light environment, than you're best setting to 35mm, which will help but not fully correct longer focal lengths. If you're in a tough light environment I think you need to set it correctly.
Like others I have a Custom Button set to pick a focal length. My only issue here, is the choice of Auto or Manual for IBIS. I don't like having to change (and remember) the TAP settings to pick a focal length, but if I run manual I'm not used to changing it for my native lenses. Any work arounds appreciated?...Show more →
You need 3 buttons to control IBIS completely without having to go into the menu.
k-h.a.w wrote:
You need 3 buttons to control IBIS completely without having to go into the menu.K-H.
Admittedly I'm left it turned on on a tripod so many times and not seen an ill effect I don't worry about turning it off anymore. Otherwise I just have one button to change the length setting. What other button/control do I need?
Mathieu18 wrote:
Admittedly I'm left it turned on on a tripod so many times and not seen an ill effect I don't worry about turning it off anymore. Otherwise I just have one button to change the length setting. What other button/control do I need?
Well, I posted that in the other long thread. But here it is.
* select the IBIS focal length parameter
* set IBIS ON or OFF
* select either Auto or Manual for the IBIS focal length parameter
Jonathon,
You should get home kind of compensation from us!! Pm me your PayPal address; I will happily send you a few quid!
Best wishes from an erstwhile Coral Sea diver.
Jacques
First, awesome summary. This may be a silly question, but when setting the IBS via aperture, does TAP remember what the last setting was when you shut the camera off? Or do you need to re-enter it every time?
Jack Thompson wrote:
First, awesome summary. This may be a silly question, but when setting the IBS via aperture, does TAP remember what the last setting was when you shut the camera off? Or do you need to re-enter it every time?
This depends on how you have implemented SteadyShot on your camera. If SteadyShot Adjust is set to Auto, then the IBIS focal length will remain at the focal length you set by choosing an aperture on the camera and then taking a picture. But if SteadyShot Adjust is set to Manual, the IBIS focal length is independent of the focal length set by the TAP (and stored in the EXIF) and will depend on the value that is currently set via the SteadyS. Focal Len.
• Right Button: SteadyShot Adjust • Auto or Manual
• Custom Button 3: SteadyS. Focal Len. • From 8mm to 1000mm when SteadyShot Adjust is set to Manual. Otherwise Auto.
• Down Button: SteadyShot • ON or OFF
jacquesvroom wrote:
Jonathon,
You should get home kind of compensation from us!! Pm me your PayPal address; I will happily send you a few quid!
Best wishes from an erstwhile Coral Sea diver.
Jacques
Jacques, thank you for your very generous offer but perhaps that few quid could go to someone more in need of it than I am. Over the years I've personally benefited so much from FredMiranda.com that I'm happy to have the opportunity to give something back to the site and its members.
to an intermediate value (say, 50mm for a 35-70mm zoom)
to the shortest value (35mm)
to the longest value (70mm)
for each marked focal length (35mm, 50mm, and 70mm), as you're doing.
I prefer to use primes, although now the TAP might push me towards using one or other of the three 35-70mm zooms (Canon FD, Leica R, and Minolta MD) I've accumulated. So my thinking about this may be incorrect but here goes...
Setting the IBIS FL to the shortest value will provide stabilization at the end where it's least needed and under-compensate for the longer FLs whereas setting the IBIS FL to the longest value will provide stabilization at the end where it's most needed and over-compensate for the shorter FLs.
Setting the IBIS FL to an intermediate value will be correct for that FL, whilst over-compensating slightly for the shorter FL and under-compensating slightly for the longer FL. But this method is clearly the most convenient.
Setting the IBIS FL appropriately for each FL requires more effort but should yield the optimum results. However, if one follow's k-h.a.w's example by setting three buttons for SteadyShot, SteadyShot Adjust, and SteadyS. Focal Len., it shouldn't take more than a few seconds to manually switch the IBIS FL. I'm inclined do it this way and maybe also program the TAP with a FL of 51mm to identify the zoom.
On a related note, if one uses both 85mm and 90mm lenses rather than using two TAP FL slots would it be preferable to set 90mm as the IBIS FL, on the basis that slight under-compensation is preferable to slight over-compensation?