seanj wrote:
Well, the crummy thing about a thread with 48+ pages is that I need to find an answer for why my shots are extremely overexposed and I have to read through these pages hoping I am not the first to ask.
keep your in-camera aperture always set at 2.0 when shooting. Anything else will change the exposure.
joelconner wrote: seanj wroteWell, the crummy thing about a thread with 48+ pages is that I need to find an answer for why my shots are extremely overexposed and I have to read through these pages hoping I am not the first to ask. keep your in-camera aperture always set at 2.0 when shooting. Anything else will change the exposure.
Okay, that works. Thanks. I thought I had to park my in camera to f/13 since I set f/13 to correspond to my Voigtlander Nokton 35/1.2 II. If I park my in camera settings at f/2, then how does the adapter know which lens I am using?
seanj wrote:
Okay, that works. Thanks. I thought I had to park my in camera to f/13 since I set f/13 to recognize my Voigtlander Nokton 35/1.2 II. If I park my in camera settings at f/2, then how does the adapter know which lens I am using?
You first take one shot at the camera setting of F/13. That writes 18mm into Exif.
Then you set F/2 in camera for subsequent shots to get the correct exposure.
Aperture you set manually on the lens.
Can you still manually focus with focus peaking and/or focus magnification with the Techart adapter? When I tried switching the camera to MF, it says about something about this is invalid for the attached lens ... would be nice to switch to manual focusing if AF condition isn't optimal
teh_rebel wrote:
Can you still manually focus with focus peaking and/or focus magnification with the Techart adapter? When I tried switching the camera to MF, it says about something about this is invalid for the attached lens ... would be nice to switch to manual focusing if AF condition isn't optimal
Yes, one can. As the TAP disables that one has to enable that with a button. I chose to set one to toggle that.
I have described all my button settings earlier in this thread.
mark1958 wrote:
Has anyone tried the Voigt 75mm 2.5 or 1.8 with the TechArt?
I have the former but L39 to Sony E adapter so need to get L39 to M adapter to try out.
joelconner wrote:
keep your in-camera aperture always set at 2.0 when shooting. Anything else will change the exposure.
I had inadvertently allowed the in-camera aperture to slip to f/2.5 but the extra two-thirds of a stop probably compensated for the backlight. Pretty happy about the TAP's ability to nail focus on the eyes though.
mcbroomf wrote: mark1958 wroteHas anyone tried the Voigt 75mm 2.5 or 1.8 with the TechArt?
I have the former but L39 to Sony E adapter so need to get L39 to M adapter to try out.https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1445543/28#13709271
I think David may have the Heliar as well
Yep I've been using the color-heliar on TAP. Works really well. Amazing little lens by f4. Good wide open, but lower contrast and a bit of LoCA. Well worth getting L39 to M for it (the one I bought came with an L39 to M adapter and I was using it with an m to E helicoid)
Thanks all. I will get the L39 to M adapter and give it a try. I had liked that lens but been sitting in the storage bag for some time now... Will resurrect to the living once again.
Actually I went from primarily non-Sony MF primes to AF Sony lenses when the 24-70/2.8 (which i think is a big but stellar lens) and the 70-200/4. In fact for a small travel pack-- this along with the Leica WATE was almost perfect for most applications. However now I am considering moving back to the small MF with the Techart. So I am considering=== Leica WATE, Zeiss 35mm 1.4 (just received and such a nice small lens), Sonnar 50mm/1.5 (arriving today), Voigt 75mm/2.5 and if i want longer Contax 100-300mm.
I am now upset i sold my Leica 28mm 2.8 R and Leica 90mm.... Oh well. Once i get all together will post comparison photos of the travel groups..
teh_rebel wrote:
before sending the a7ii back, took a test shot with the Helios 44M. Came out pretty good as far as focusing goes. This lens was always hard to nail focus wide open
Did you prefocus the 105mm roughly? The Techart probably doesn't have enough travel to focus a tele focus lens onto close targets when the lens is set to infinity. Normal and wide lenses require less travel, so typically don't need to be prefocused.
OpticalFlow wrote: teh_rebel wrotebefore sending the a7ii back, took a test shot with the Helios 44M. Came out pretty good as far as focusing goes. This lens was always hard to nail focus wide open
the nikkor 10.5cm/2.5, i couldnt get to work though. it wouldn't autofocus https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8125/29586274241_de9396dcd7_o.jpgDid you prefocus the 105mm roughly? The Techart probably doesn't have enough travel to focus a tele focus lens onto close targets when the lens is set to infinity. Normal and wide lenses require less travel, so typically don't need to be prefocused.
Hmm I recall messing with the focusing but might have just moved it from one end (infinity) to the other (MFD). I had to send the A7II back though so dont really have a camera to test it again but have a A7RII on the way. I'll give it another try. The copy I have though, the focus does get tough in the mid-range when I have the adapter on it and attached to the camera so I havent really used it much. When I have the lens off the camera, I can freely move the focusing back and forth. The lens has some weight on it some perhaps when the lens is mounted, its causing it to get stuck in the middle somewhere.
For those looking for the adapter, consider lensrentals. You can try it with your lenses (or theirs) and you can buy it used from them if you decide it is for you. I just returned the one I used for the last 10 days earlier this week. I really liked it once I played around with it for a few days and learned what I needed to do to dial it in. Just not what I'm thinking of getting next.
Here are a couple from the back yard using the TAP and Voightlander 21mm Ultron.
It seems that if I move the focus selector anywhere else, it can't focus properly.
You can definitely move the flexible spot, off center and still have good AF.
Other factors will impact ability to AF as well.
For example is the lighting good, what's the aperture, and is the detail you're focusing on vertical or horizontal?