MedicineMan404 wrote:
So far my Lumix 7-14 is fine on the new Oly but I've not shot into the Sun.
I'll play with the Nocticron sometime this weekend to get a feel.
Ooooh ... you have the Nocticron as well? That is one sweet lens and you will be hooked! OOF and color rendering qualities are awesome. I think the micro-contrast is very Zeiss or Leica-like. And the lens is sharp wide open. A couple of old samples here.
The image seems really sharp wide open.
It can be shot that way in full NM sunshine at 1/16,000 s.
I could detect some chromatic aberration/purple fringing that mostly could be removed in post-processing.
I am using C1Pro 10.
At page 61, post 16, I showed a High resolution image taken as I'm in the process of learning the camera. Some other HiRes images looked cleaner than expected making me saying the result look different than what we get from FF cameras with high native resolution. I had a further look into this and found interesting things:
The HiRes mode makes all lenses looking better. The better the lens the better the result. Small details benefit the most, obviously, but really everything in the images improves. There is an interesting lack of moire and false colours. The images can take a lot of sharpening.
Some of this was expected from reading elsewhere. Some of this was news to me. All this is probably old news for experienced users reading this thread but here are a couple of examples anyway:
It's a good thing the world is looking better to the south and west.
But what if keeping the new big size? How big can I print? Here you can judge for yourself:
Sometimes the camera, or the lens, doesn't behave as expected.
Aperture dance:
Setup: EM-1 Mk II and the M Zuiko 25/1.2, daylight outdoor scene, Single Autofocus +M, A mode (aperture value can be set to anything) and viewfinder use.
When half pressing the shutter release the camera sometimes (most often) rapidly closes and open the aperture and focuses. The camera waves with the aperture blades three times. This is annoying as the camera focuses at the same time and the viewfinder brightness level flexes up and down.
OK. Then I wait for the moment and when fully pressing the release button the camera flexes with the aperture blades again, ones or twice and the shot is taken somewhere in this process.
The same can happpen when the situation calls for shooting wide open and using a short shutter time. The camera (and/or the lens?) needs a firmware update.
Viewfinder overlay:
The viewfinder overlay doesn't always catch up with the latest settings (info view) when switching between different modes (PASM, C1, C2 and C3).
It can happen in other situations as well and can be confusing for a newbie. The problem is cured by half pressing the release or by repeatedly pressing the INFO-button. I haven't checked this in detail.
Here is a Hummingbird recovering from a mild concussion after crashing into a window.
My wife picked him up from the ground and after a pretty brief moment he took off.
I barely had enough time to get in a handful of shots.
If I may comment, I think both those images could have benefited from a bit more depth of field.
Looking at the ISO used, should there not have been room to up the ISO and use a smaller aperture and still get a reasonable shutter speed?
Lotuselite wrote:
If I may comment, I think both those images could have benefited from a bit more depth of field.
Looking at the ISO used, should there not have been room to up the ISO and use a smaller aperture and still get a reasonable shutter speed?
Thanks for the feedback. Which apertures would you suggest for these kinds of shots?
Or put another way, which constrains should one put on ISO and shutter speed and let the aperture result?
TIA.
