p.2 #1 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
AGeoJO wrote:
I would also think that ETTR benefits more Canon sensors rather than Sony Exmor sensors. In my experience, Canon sensors tend to be less prone to highlight clipping than Sony sensors do. In other words, Canon sensors can handle highlights better than Sonys do. So, ETTR helps Canon sensors to get cleaner shadows with less highlight clipping. Using Sony, my bracketing scheme tends to favor under exposure more or ETTL rather than the other way around. Oh, well.
p.2 #2 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
Well that's nice to have an objective test.
I kind have it set around 85 and avoided all blinkies. Images turned out fine, so I just left it.
I'll have to see now and push it harder.
Thanks.
David
p.2 #3 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
Have to test this with my A7R, I suspect it works there, too. So far I decided to turn the whole zebra thing off after I experimented with it for a while. I found the blinking highlights too distracting especially for landscape photography where the sky is always brighter than the foreground. Also, I find the percentage number very confusing since I expected to see more zebra lines at higher percentage which is not the case how it works (instead it is more a sensitivity number for highlights).
p.2 #4 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
A good thing about this method is that the ETTR method works when you are aware of what level of highlights you are preserving otherwise you end up exposing for specular highlights and losing the rest of the image in the deep shadows. With this method, unlike a histogram, you can actually see where the highlights are, you not only expose until the zebras go away but you can choose to leave zebras where you can see that they are not an issue, the sun, specular highlights, reflections, etc.
Another advantage is the EC wheel, you can dial in and out really easily with it. I have to try this one time.
p.2 #5 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
Fred Miranda wrote:
How to do it:
- Set Zebra to "100+" to display any overexposure. (similar to highlight "blinkies" alert)
- Set Metering Mode to: Multi.
- Shoot in RAW mode.
- Creative Style set to standard with default settings
Expose until you get no Zebra strip pattern on the highlights areas. Then add "2EV" to get your ETTR exposure.
That's it!!!
This is interesting. Coming from the video side of things, I've always used zebras to expose, but I've never gone beyond that. I use Autumn Leaves as my creative style as it gets good skin tones in video, hopefully this jives well so I can avoid switching as often. I need to start using the exposure compensation dial more. Thanks for posting.
p.2 #6 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
dandrewk wrote:
Fred, many thanks for this.
I started a thread in DPR asking the same question you answered. No clear responses, and the thread is approaching 130 responses, the vast majority being the type of responses we've come to expect from DPR.
Glad to help out. I have been using this technique quite a bit with consistent results.
Best,
Fred
p.2 #7 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
Fred Miranda wrote:
Glad to help out. I have been using this technique quite a bit with consistent results.
Best,
Fred
Hi Fred,
Have you tried playing with bespoke camera profile from the Adobe DNG Profile Editor and setting it to a linear response curve? Seems to give more noise latitude in my playing. Also combined it with the Slog2 profile for stills - still looking at those results though.
p.2 #8 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
Beni wrote:
A good thing about this method is that the ETTR method works when you are aware of what level of highlights you are preserving otherwise you end up exposing for specular highlights and losing the rest of the image in the deep shadows. With this method, unlike a histogram, you can actually see where the highlights are, you not only expose until the zebras go away but you can choose to leave zebras where you can see that they are not an issue, the sun, specular highlights, reflections, etc.
Another advantage is the EC wheel, you can dial in and out really easily with it. I have to try this one time....Show more →
Yes, that is a good point. You will visualize where the highlights are located (Instead of just a graph) and decide if you should ignore them or not.
It does work quite well with the EC top wheel when in aperture or shutter speed mode. In manual mode and ISO 100, shutter speed or aperture dial must be used instead.
Best,
Fred
p.2 #9 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
I tried this method the other day and it works very well. I have a fn button set to the zebra. Only difference is that I have DRO set to 3 and contrast set to -2 as I find this reflects better what I see afterwards in Lr6
p.2 #11 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
q-w-z wrote:
Clever approarch but not forget that Zebras use JPEG data and depends on White Balance.
To get more accurate results tou have to set WB properly.
to get accurate results you need to use UniWB, then you come within <= 1/3 EV match to actual clipping raw. I do.
p.2 #12 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
I did some tests with my A7m2 (not the r2) and the 55/1.8.
I've shot against the sun and with the sun in my back. I turned the exposure back until zebras has gone and added 2EV, raw mode. The histogram was blinking in all pictures after shooting this way.
In LR CC I opened the files and to get a good exposure (in my view) I had to:
- when shooting against the sun I had to adjust the exposure at -1EV maximum and highlights around -60
- when shooting with the sun in my back I had to adjust the exposure at - 0.3EV and highlights between -30 and -60.
PS- I like to use .3 as exposure compensation instead of .5
I liked the results because in general I was getting pictures a little under exposed.
p.2 #13 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
Update:
When doing the ETTR technique for bracket shots (-2, 0, +2), we should add +4EV to the exposure where we don't see any zebras stripes. (As described on the first post).
However, with the new 'Uncompressed' RAW option, we are no longer able to bracket in silent mode. It was desired to use silent mode because the bracket sequent would be faster, silent and with absolutely zero vibration. There was a loss of precision (14 to 12 bits) but bracketing would more than make up for it.
Now with uncompressed, bracketing can only be done in "e-Front Curtain Shutter" mode (which most have as default). It's actually not a bad thing as the resulting images will have 14-bits precision and will be uncompressed. If you change the setting to "Compressed" RAW, you will be able to bracket in silent mode though.
All the best,
Fred
p.2 #14 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
Fred Miranda wrote:
I usually shoot in manual mode and the way I adjust EV is by changing the shutter speed dial. So, when you make the exposure time 2 stops longer, you are basically adding +2EV to the final exposure. The same way goes for +4EV when you are bracketing which I suggest using manual mode.
When shooting in aperture priority, you can either add +2EV using the top dial or by using the camera "Exposure Comp." setting (Camera icon, page 4), which let's you choose from -5 to +5.
Fred, in aperture priority mode, the camera "controls" the combination of aperture, speed and ISO. How do you adjust the exposure to eliminate the zebra before you add +2EV using the top dial?
p.2 #15 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
kdrk888 wrote:
Fred, in aperture priority mode, the camera "controls" the combination of aperture, speed and ISO. How do you adjust the exposure to eliminate the zebra before you add +2EV using the top dial?
Thanks and merry Christmas.
Douglas
Douglas,
There are two options for that:
1) Use the top dial and go negative until the zebra pattern goes away. Then count 2 stops from that.
For example, the zebra pattern stops at -1. The correct ETTR would be +1 on the dial.
You can do it without looking. Just go backward on the dial until the zebra is gone and then add 6 clicks to it. (If your camera is set to 1/3 exposure steps)
2) Use the exposure compensation menu option. It goes from -5 to +5. Do it the same way as number 1).
Go negative until the zebra is gone and then add +2 to it.
Remember that if you are doing the ETTR bracket (-2,0,+2), you would need to add +4 instead of +2.
p.2 #17 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
Fred Miranda wrote:
1) Use the top dial and go negative until the zebra pattern goes away. Then count 2 stops from that.
For example, the zebra pattern stops at -1. The correct ETTR would be +3 on the dial.
You can do it without looking. Just go backward on the dial until the zebra is gone and then add 6 clicks to it. (If your camera is set to 1/3 exposure steps)
Understand it with 6 x 1/3rd exposure stops upwards....but in your example if the zebra pattern stops at -1 adding two stops would make it +1 and not +3? Typo?
p.2 #18 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
retrofocus wrote:
Understand it with 6 x 1/3rd exposure stops upwards....but in your example if the zebra pattern stops at -1 adding two stops would make it +1 and not +3? Typo?
Yes, it was late at night and I was thinking about ETTR bracket which would indeed make it "+3".
If you go -1, the correct ETTR exposure for a single shot should be "+1". I corrected it, thanks!
p.2 #19 · Easy ETTR technique using the Zebra pattern
I usually bracket so I'm a novice at ETTR. So, my question may seem a little dumb. How is this technique different from setting exposure normally, and then doing EC until the 100+ blinkies go away, which is, by the way, often about -2EV.
