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After shooting ambient during my trip to India last year, I wasn't totally happy with the result so decided to bring the lighting kit along to shoot people in the street of Nepal with strobe this time round.
Great shots, both of them. I'm trying to dissect them a bit. Let's start with the #2 image: it ambient and flash look nearly balanced, with the background maybe being a bit underexposed, but not the extent of the first image.
#1: It looks like maybe you metered for the background, then purposely underexposed it a bit, ensuring no blown highlights (any shadows in the bg could be lifted in post). Then you illuminated the subject with flash. I say that because it doesn't look like the ambient and the flash are balanced. I don't mean that as a harsh criticism because I love, LOVE it! I'm simply trying to figure out how to do that myself. The strong flash and slightly underexposed background really creates separation between subject and bg.
Now, if you tell me this was a composite photo done in photoshop, I'm going to be disappointed.
Great shots, both of them. I'm trying to dissect them a bit. Let's start with the #2 image: it ambient and flash look nearly balanced, with the background maybe being a bit underexposed, but not the extent of the first image.
#1: It looks like maybe you metered for the background, then purposely underexposed it a bit, ensuring no blown highlights (any shadows in the bg could be lifted in post). Then you illuminated the subject with flash. I say that because it doesn't look like the ambient and the flash are balanced. I don't mean that as a harsh criticism because I love, LOVE it! I'm simply trying to figure out how to do that myself. The strong flash and slightly underexposed background really creates separation between subject and bg.
Now, if you tell me this was a composite photo done in photoshop, I'm going to be disappointed. ...Show more →
It's not too hard to do #1. Meter the background in camera. Drop exposure 1-3 stops, depending on how "dramatic" you want it too look. #2. Use flash. Off camera. Roughly 45 degrees above and to the side of subject. Adjust flash power until it looks right. Or use a flash meter. Or use ETTL/whatever magic auto mode you have.
Dave McGaughey wrote:
It's not too hard to do #1. Meter the background in camera. Drop exposure 1-3 stops, depending on how "dramatic" you want it too look. #2. Use flash. Off camera. Roughly 45 degrees above and to the side of subject. Adjust flash power until it looks right. Or use a flash meter. Or use ETTL/whatever magic auto mode you have.
Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking. Thanks for clarifying though. I'm gonna steal, er, I mean, experiment with this technique this weekend.
Dave McGaughey wrote:
It's not too hard to do #1. Meter the background in camera. Drop exposure 1-3 stops, depending on how "dramatic" you want it too look. #2. Use flash. Off camera. Roughly 45 degrees above and to the side of subject. Adjust flash power until it looks right. Or use a flash meter. Or use ETTL/whatever magic auto mode you have.
Ok, I am not too smart......if I meter the background, drop the exposure 1-3 stops, how does the flash not try to compensate with TTL? I guess I am a little confused on your statement......so humor me and explain....thanks!
Great shots, both of them. I'm trying to dissect them a bit. Let's start with the #2 image: it ambient and flash look nearly balanced, with the background maybe being a bit underexposed, but not the extent of the first image.
#1: It looks like maybe you metered for the background, then purposely underexposed it a bit, ensuring no blown highlights (any shadows in the bg could be lifted in post). Then you illuminated the subject with flash. I say that because it doesn't look like the ambient and the flash are balanced. I don't mean that as a harsh criticism because I love, LOVE it! I'm simply trying to figure out how to do that myself. The strong flash and slightly underexposed background really creates separation between subject and bg.
Now, if you tell me this was a composite photo done in photoshop, I'm going to be disappointed. ...Show more →
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Herb wrote:
Ok, I am not too smart......if I meter the background, drop the exposure 1-3 stops, how does the flash not try to compensate with TTL? I guess I am a little confused on your statement......so humor me and explain....thanks!
Both photos were shot in similar condition in midday sun with slight cloud cover. The first was shot with an OMD and wide angle lens at F10 and the second was shot with a 5D3 + Sigma 85mm + Singhray Vari-ND @ F1.4 at max flash sync speed at 1/200-1/320. The idea is to underexpose the background by around 1-1.5 stops. Use Liveview to set/see the exposure of the background, then set the flash power to the desired power. Don’t use ETTL, it’s too ‘stupid’ to figure out what’s the right exposure, ALWAYS use manual setting.
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sidefunk wrote:
Love the balance of light here in both shots. Looking forward to more if you have.
Edit: Wooh . . . I just checked out your flickr page and your work is just fantastic!
I’ll post some others later as I’ve just got back from the trip and have not had the chance to process too many photos. The photos of the Sadhus is pretty cool
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ugdog wrote:
Nice shots. What lighting kit did you use?
I was using a Godox AD360 with 51” PCB PLM with white diffusion panel, it’s slightly heavier than a Speedlight but so much more powerful and portable. The whole kit including lightstand was around 3kg !!!
These are all very good. I guess that means that you have to go back to the old days and calculate the distance to the subject and do the settings on the flash. Some of the newer flashes don't do auto anymore, but I assume they will do manual.
DaveOls wrote:
These are all very good. I guess that means that you have to go back to the old days and calculate the distance to the subject and do the settings on the flash. Some of the newer flashes don't do auto anymore, but I assume they will do manual.
Wow, that third picture is great. I'm excited to see the rest.
As for figuring out the flash, there are two methods: 1. Start with flash on full power, chimp, then manually adjust from there until it looks right. The Godox flashes are nice because you can remotely adjust the flash power. 2. Use a flash meter.
The glowing embers in the background are the cremations which are performed 24/7 at Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu, Nepal. It lies on the banks of the Bagmati River, which flows into the holy Ganges River in India.
