p.8 #1 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
One step which really helps me with the R80 is to focus wide open and then only stop it down. That lets me nail focus more easily. Of course, as long as the statue I am shooting doesn't go running off
p.8 #2 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
Thanks for the tip Philber, I was actually eyeballing some statues in Stockholm the other day. Unfortunately the R80 isn't waterproof so it will have to wait until next opportunity. I have some old scenes I would like to reshoot with the R80.
p.8 #4 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
philber wrote:
...I need a 50 Cron V4. How do I know which is which when buying on E-Bay?
Thank you philber & Gregg
From my experience all fast lenses represent some degree of focussing difficulties when shooting wide open. DSLR crops are usually the hardest to focus at f/1.2-2 via OVF and even full frame (D)SLR with and range finders may suffer from focus shift.
As freaklikeme suggested FF mirrorless A7/R may be the option here. Honestly, my keeper’s ratio with A7R EVF, especially when using magnification focus is nearly 95% when shooting portraits of non-running subjects. In fact, I tend to use EVF most of the time, very seldom, if at all checking LV display.
As for your question about Summicron-M 50 v4, now that Gary put his own on a market, I would say grab it. I have the Summicron-R 50, which is optically identical to the M version (there is an interesting write up by E. Puts about these two lenses) and normally I would recommend it as equal, but there is a size difference and $$$ difference.
I am not sure what 50mm lenses you're using at the moment but most likely you will end up with at least few, if not already. Switching to Sony E mount FF camera would open more possibilities for you like M mount Leica, Zeiss or Voigtlander. You could easily end up with just two lenses, say one fast lens with classic rendering like Zeiss Sonnar 50/1.5, Leica-M Summilux 50 (pre-2004 Mandler’s designs) or the spectacular Voigtländer 50/1.5 ASPH and something more punchy and suitable for mid-infinity shots like Summicron 50 or Zeiss Planar 50/2. That's just my take and others may chime in, but it all depends which camera format you plan to stick to.
p.8 #5 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
3 parts to your post, Jack.
- focusing with the 80. I understand the "thin-DOF" part. I am just surprised by how much harder it is to focus than my 'Cron 75AA @f:2.8, ofr example; One reason is that, nearing infinity, the 80 has very a short throw, requiring very precise action, and the lowish contrast doesn't help. But I'm learning.
- Gary's 50 'Cron. Drats! I thought it was a R, not an M. I decided to standardize on 2 mounts only (I had 6): FE and R. Not going back on that. So what I want is the R 50 'Cron, even more so if it is optically identical to the beautiful M pics Gary just showed. And there seems to be lots of that on E-Bay Any versions and/or serial numbers I should look for? or should I go for the 50 'Lux, also a Mandler design I believe?
- having 2 50s. Couldn't agree more. One is the FE 55. Very sharp, has AF. Quite light and compact. But not exactly blessed with nice colours or an interesting rendering. So my "other 50" should have great colours and rendering. That is what I see in the R 50, either 'Cron or 'Lux.
p.8 #6 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
philber wrote:
- Gary's 50 'Cron. Drats! I thought it was a R, not an M. I decided to standardize on 2 mounts only (I had 6): FE and R. Not going back on that. So what I want is the R 50 'Cron, even more so if it is optically identical to the beautiful M pics Gary just showed. And there seems to be lots of that on E-Bay Any versions and/or serial numbers I should look for? or should I go for the 50 'Lux, also a Mandler design I believe?
I can answer that one. Anything Canadian or German with an e55 filter thread and built-in hood will have the latest optics. No, the 50 'Lux isn't a Mandler design, but if you want the extra stop (and expense, and bulk) it's a very good lens. The first version (accessory hood) is light on the contrast and not great in the corners (it's very much like the Summilux-M 50 vII). The e55 with a built in hood is better across the frame, but not quite as a sharp in the center wide open. These two versions both have six-blade apertures, so the stopped down bokeh can get shapely. The e60 picks up three more blades and has the best optics of the bunch (as close to the ASPH M lens as you can get without aspherical elements) but is typically priced accordingly.
Personally, I'd go with the Summicron. The Lux's don't bring enough wide open to justify the expense, in my opinion.
p.8 #7 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
^^^ Ditto!
I would go for Summicron-R 50 E55 .
If you want to be fancy, get Summilux-R E55 Both lenses should be version II as per freaklikeme description above.
Get one in a good shape from mid-late 1980s or 1990s as they usually can be found in better shape.
PS.
I had my eye on Summilux-R 50 E60 for a while, but considering its limited availability and price one can have a brand new chrome version of Summilux-M 50 APSH and Sony A7 for the same price.
p.8 #8 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
^^^^
I have the R Lux 50 E55 and I love it. Mine is very sharp wide open, maybe a tad less so than my CV 50 1.5 ASPH, but at f2-4 it is VERY sharp! I wish it had a few more blades, but the bokeh isn't bad....it's probably my fav 50. I borrowed a R Cron 50 from a friend (E55), and it too, was excellent!! That is what got me started on the Leica kick. I would love an M version, but they are to me, cost prohibitive at the moment. Mmacro has a very nice R Cron 50 (E55) in the BS board that looks incredible. Thought about getting it...but I'm stuck with my Lux
Gregg
p.8 #10 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
Amazing with that R80. Those must be wide open. Gregg, wonderful glimpses of the party.
Here's a couple with the 180 3.4 Apo Telyt.
This one I have titled "Modeling for a Mandler Lens". The other turtles turned tail and took a dip, but this one came write under where I was and stared right through the lens back at me. SwimmingWithTheFish by maryland_photos, on Flickr
p.8 #11 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
One more, this is a crop. I didn't want to get closer to the cardinal, so I just stood around a tree and used it to stabilize my elbow. 180 3.4 Apo Telyt again.
p.8 #20 · Through Walter Mandler Glass (on FF Only)
Just ordered the Visoflex/NikonF adapter from Fotodiox. I can soon attach some Mandler glass to my D3X, including the Elmar 90 three-element, Tele-Elmar 135, and Telyt-V 280/4.8.
