Well, took the A7rM out to work yesterday and snapped a few shots. Used my new ZM 25, and ZM 35/2 Biogon. Didn't take too many, but so far I have mixed feelings. The corners get really purple( I need to learn to use CornerFix I guess?), and my infinity is way off, too! Like Charles, I'll use my VM-E For infinity for now. And, I'll have to try Jack's idea of focusing at the corners for better across the frame sharpness. I thought for sure the corners would be much better than they are, but of course it could be my technique, until I get used to the new sensor cover.
Anyways, here are a couple.
Gregg
ZM 35/2 at f5.6 or 8
ZM 35/2 @f8
ZM 25 @f2.8 and VM-E(which can get you really, really close!!)
Strawberry Hedgehog in bloom. Found in Supersistions Wilderness Aera, Arizona. Tamron MF 300 F2.8 + Vivitar focusing helicoid .Image 1 with Minolta AF 70-210 F4 lens.
Harry Palmer
Basso wrote:
Sebboh you really get the most out of that 24mm minolta, it draws really special. Yet, my experience is that it behaved much better on my NEX5N than on my A7r. What is the FLE adjustment you talk about?
it seems to perform pretty much the same on a7 as my nex. it's main weakness is the midzone dip (that shows up in the corner on aps-c) and flare. the lens has a floating element that was not properly calibrated in my copy and created strong field curvature. i just readjusted it (and briefly described the process here), and flatness of field across the frame has improved dramatically.
Haha, one of the better play ground designs Quite difficult sometimes to convince your kids that in this particular case they better do not use the slide...
That 2nd photo is instantly recognisable as G28 - borders and centre area contrast. In cases where you want to highlight the center area of the photo or in cases of close up it can really work on A7/r.
Basso wrote:
That 2nd photo is instantly recognisable as G28 - borders and centre area contrast. In cases where you want to highlight the center area of the photo or in cases of close up it can really work on A7/r.
Another area where the Biogon holds up is for stars. Not the best example since the exposure was a bit long and the shot isn't that exciting, but the astigmatism in the corners bothers me a lot less than the coma I'm used to seeing with the other lens I've been using a lot for stars, the Olympus OM 24mm f/2.8.
arduluth wrote:
Another area where the Biogon holds up is for stars. Not the best example since the exposure was a bit long and the shot isn't that exciting, but the astigmatism in the corners bothers me a lot less than the coma I'm used to seeing with the other lens I've been using a lot for stars, the Olympus OM 24mm f/2.8.
I'm curious. The center of this image should be out of focus if this is without any crop. The severe field curvature on these Biogons would prevent this kind of shot possible, unless you do a DOF stack.
hiepphotog wrote:
I'm curious. The center of this image should be out of focus if this is without any crop. The severe field curvature on these Biogons would prevent this kind of shot possible, unless you do a DOF stack.
That's what I would have expected, but it doesn't seem to be what happens in practice. I don't understand how it works. I'd provide some 100% crops, but the issue is confounded with star trailing as the exposure was too long. When I get the chance, I'll try to get a starscape that doesn't suffer from trailing.
sebboh wrote:
it seems to perform pretty much the same on a7 as my nex. it's main weakness is the midzone dip (that shows up in the corner on aps-c) and flare. the lens has a floating element that was not properly calibrated in my copy and created strong field curvature. i just readjusted it (and briefly described the process here), and flatness of field across the frame has improved dramatically.
Thanks for this. In order not to bother this thread too much, I posted two examples of my MD Rokkor 24/2.8 behaviour on the Rokkor thread.
But people, this thread is really incredible. Just to pick some:
- Greggf that ZM25 looks really nice.
- Mike what an incredible shot!!! Wow!
- Arduluth, yes good use of the G28 indeed, haha.
- Werner great as always
- Ronny that 80-200 suits you well (well which lens does not?).
- Nex, great portrait and careful use of colours. The eyes pop out.
Here some of last Summer in the Alps.
A stitch. To get an idea of the scale, note the pixels/peope on the glacier on the right hand side... well you have to look very carefully...
Greggf wrote:
Well, took the A7rM out to work yesterday and snapped a few shots. Used my new ZM 25, and ZM 35/2 Biogon. Didn't take too many, but so far I have mixed feelings. The corners get really purple( I need to learn to use CornerFix I guess?), and my infinity is way off, too! Like Charles, I'll use my VM-E For infinity for now. And, I'll have to try Jack's idea of focusing at the corners for better across the frame sharpness. I thought for sure the corners would be much better than they are, but of course it could be my technique, until I get used to the new sensor cover.
Anyways, here are a couple.
Gregg...Show more →
Hi Greg, I would suggest to use Adobe FF and import your images as DNG files into Lr. You only need to take couple of shots once initially, f/2.8 and f/8 with a diffuse/WB card and it is very quick with your PP'ing work flow. There is an excellent synopsis by Nicholas in the Sensor Mod thread. Infinity setting should not be an issue, unless the lens has a floating element. If it does not, still it is great to infinity stop where is meant to be. VM-E is excellent in this respect, and the Hawks V5 has two screws that you can lock the infinity stop. I do set all my M lenses to the proper infinity stop whether it is the A7rM, A7s or A7II for ease of use. Good Luck
