Sony FE Images Thread
p.454 #1Sony FE Images Thread
twoeye wrote:
Tilt and shift on the FD 35mm f2.8 TS can be rotated 90 degrees independently of each other by removing four screws, rotate and reinsert the screws.
I wasn't aware that it could be done...I'll have to take a closer look at mine. Thanks.
Mike Ganz wrote
The lens is uber-sharp, with typical Canon color rendition...the only drawback that I can think of is that it cannot be modified to get tilt and shift in the same plane (on the TSE 45 and 90, all that it takes is to remove four screws, rotate the mechanism 90 degrees, and re-insert the screws).I wasn't aware that it could be done...I'll have to take a closer look at mine. Thanks.
Aug 18, 2014 at 06:52 AM
p.454 #2Sony FE Images Thread
dovey wrote:
Mr Bookman,
Would you mind giving the iso and other settings for those poolside photos with the A7s?
First shot is f/8 1/250 -1 EV ISO 2500
Second shot is f/8 1/250 -1 7/10 EV ISO 2500
This is not extreme ISO. There was still plenty of daylight but no direct sun as I was in the full shade of a hillside. I used PP to try to take advantage of the full shade, softer shadows and create a more night-time look.
Mr Bookman,
Would you mind giving the iso and other settings for those poolside photos with the A7s?
First shot is f/8 1/250 -1 EV ISO 2500
Second shot is f/8 1/250 -1 7/10 EV ISO 2500
This is not extreme ISO. There was still plenty of daylight but no direct sun as I was in the full shade of a hillside. I used PP to try to take advantage of the full shade, softer shadows and create a more night-time look.
Aug 18, 2014 at 06:57 AM
p.454 #3Sony FE Images Thread
A7s Minolta Zoom MD 35-70mm f/3.5 Macro - Sunset last night from Washington State looking across to Vancouver Island BC.
Aug 18, 2014 at 07:10 AM
p.454 #4Sony FE Images Thread
philber wrote:
Nice little boat, Michiel!
Werner, would you mind telling how you captured your image? I am green with envy
No secrets here!
This is from the Harold Davis workshop, "Creative Black And White" i attended recently.
It is an HDR, 3 shots at +/- 2EV with the FE 55/1.8 at 7.1 on tripod. (the exifs got lost during pp)
It was supposed to be converted to BW, the color version should only be an intermediate step. But i liked it much better than the BW test conversion i did.
The light rays a very often observed in that church (thats why we went there), which is almost all white with a nice light coming in on most afternoons.
The rays got much increased during the HDR conversion with NIK HDR EFFEX as the walls got a little "dirty".
They where finally even more intensified in PS with a white layer and layer mask by painting in some white.
So a lot of PP, which was the assignment at the workshop.
Nothing to get "green"
My regards
Nice little boat, Michiel!
Werner, would you mind telling how you captured your image? I am green with envy
No secrets here!
This is from the Harold Davis workshop, "Creative Black And White" i attended recently.
It is an HDR, 3 shots at +/- 2EV with the FE 55/1.8 at 7.1 on tripod. (the exifs got lost during pp)
It was supposed to be converted to BW, the color version should only be an intermediate step. But i liked it much better than the BW test conversion i did.
The light rays a very often observed in that church (thats why we went there), which is almost all white with a nice light coming in on most afternoons.
The rays got much increased during the HDR conversion with NIK HDR EFFEX as the walls got a little "dirty".
They where finally even more intensified in PS with a white layer and layer mask by painting in some white.
So a lot of PP, which was the assignment at the workshop.
Nothing to get "green"
My regards
Aug 18, 2014 at 07:18 AM
p.454 #6Sony FE Images Thread
I recently aquired a new Rokkor to add to the collection.
The MC 100/3.5 macro. These are all shot hand held using tubes on the A7.
JayT
The MC 100/3.5 macro. These are all shot hand held using tubes on the A7.
JayT
Aug 18, 2014 at 09:36 AM
p.454 #7Sony FE Images Thread
Rokkor 100 2.0 .....
I should clean the sensor....
I should clean the sensor....
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Aug 18, 2014 at 09:48 AM
p.454 #8Sony FE Images Thread
Mike Ganz wrote:
Tilt and shift on the FD 35mm f2.8 TS can be rotated 90 degrees independently of each other by removing four screws, rotate and reinsert the screws.I wasn't aware that it could be done...I'll have to take a closer look at mine. Thanks.
I can confirm that. It's even easier insofar as there's no ribbon cable for aperture control to worry about.
Mike
twoeye wrote
Mike Ganz wrote
The lens is uber-sharp, with typical Canon color rendition...the only drawback that I can think of is that it cannot be modified to get tilt and shift in the same plane (on the TSE 45 and 90, all that it takes is to remove four screws, rotate the mechanism 90 degrees, and re-insert the screws).I can confirm that. It's even easier insofar as there's no ribbon cable for aperture control to worry about.
Mike
Aug 18, 2014 at 10:22 AM
p.454 #9Sony FE Images Thread
face-2-face 
A7r + Sigma 70/2.8 EX DG macro A mount + Kenko ext.tubes
A7r + Sigma 70/2.8 EX DG macro A mount + Kenko ext.tubesAug 18, 2014 at 10:36 AM
p.454 #10Sony FE Images Thread
twoeye wrote:
Tilt and shift on the FD 35mm f2.8 TS can be rotated 90 degrees independently of each other by removing four screws, rotate and reinsert the screws.
---------------------------------------------
Mike Ganz wrote:
Tilt and shift on the FD 35mm f2.8 TS can be rotated 90 degrees independently of each other by removing four screws, rotate and reinsert the screws.I wasn't aware that it could be done...I'll have to take a closer look at mine. Thanks.
I did a double check. It can be done on the 35, but its not as easy as it is on the 45 and 90. Three screws on the 35 are readily accessible, but the fourth is buried beneath the shift mechanism...not so on the other two.
Mike Ganz wrote
The lens is uber-sharp, with typical Canon color rendition...the only drawback that I can think of is that it cannot be modified to get tilt and shift in the same plane (on the TSE 45 and 90, all that it takes is to remove four screws, rotate the mechanism 90 degrees, and re-insert the screws).---------------------------------------------
Mike Ganz wrote:
twoeye wrote
Mike Ganz wrote
The lens is uber-sharp, with typical Canon color rendition...the only drawback that I can think of is that it cannot be modified to get tilt and shift in the same plane (on the TSE 45 and 90, all that it takes is to remove four screws, rotate the mechanism 90 degrees, and re-insert the screws).I did a double check. It can be done on the 35, but its not as easy as it is on the 45 and 90. Three screws on the 35 are readily accessible, but the fourth is buried beneath the shift mechanism...not so on the other two.
Aug 18, 2014 at 11:24 AM
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p.454 #11Sony FE Images Thread
A7 & Nikon 300/2.8 AIS Handheld W.O. SOOC.
This beast of a lens is actually pretty well balanced, all things considered. I was pretty impressed with the images I was able to get without AF or IS/VR. I'm a pretty stout guy and I couldn't imagine shooting this lens all day without a tripod/monopod. I think it's time to start hitting the weights again.
The neighbor pulling my kids along with his kids on a tube behind a jetski on the lake behind our home. Summer is almost over already. Not looking forward to the snow and darkness that will be fast approaching.
14620665887_5867727773_o by A.Laskan, on Flickr
This beast of a lens is actually pretty well balanced, all things considered. I was pretty impressed with the images I was able to get without AF or IS/VR. I'm a pretty stout guy and I couldn't imagine shooting this lens all day without a tripod/monopod. I think it's time to start hitting the weights again.
The neighbor pulling my kids along with his kids on a tube behind a jetski on the lake behind our home. Summer is almost over already. Not looking forward to the snow and darkness that will be fast approaching.
14620665887_5867727773_o by A.Laskan, on FlickrAug 18, 2014 at 11:42 AM
p.454 #12Sony FE Images Thread
alaskandood wrote:
Shots from today.
A7 & FD 80-200/4 L
Really loving this lens... I can tell I'm getting better at PP now that I've figured out actions and scripts.
Huge crop! Not even sure how much 200% prob. Not even sure what kind of bird this was. But the two mature birds kept diving and feeding the younger one. Was fun to watch them nursing the baby.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14955206702_9a337965e2_b.jpgDSC09744.jpg by A.Laskan, on Flickr
Had to check your location first ! Looks very much like an Arctic Loon family (aka Black Throated Loon and in Eurasia we call Loons ... Divers, so Black Throated Divers here) - really nice birds !
http://identify.whatbird.com/obj/399/overview/Arctic_Loon.aspx
Shots from today.
A7 & FD 80-200/4 L
Really loving this lens... I can tell I'm getting better at PP now that I've figured out actions and scripts.
Huge crop! Not even sure how much 200% prob. Not even sure what kind of bird this was. But the two mature birds kept diving and feeding the younger one. Was fun to watch them nursing the baby.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14955206702_9a337965e2_b.jpgDSC09744.jpg by A.Laskan, on Flickr
Had to check your location first ! Looks very much like an Arctic Loon family (aka Black Throated Loon and in Eurasia we call Loons ... Divers, so Black Throated Divers here) - really nice birds !
http://identify.whatbird.com/obj/399/overview/Arctic_Loon.aspx
Aug 18, 2014 at 12:12 PM
p.454 #13Sony FE Images Thread
Ships on the Colombia River, Astoria Oregon
Canon FD 55mm S.S.C. F1.2, Sony A7R
Canon FD 55mm S.S.C. 55mm F1.201_DSC7388 by jgaster, on Flickr
Canon FD 100mm S.S.C. F2.8, Sony A7R
Canon FD 100mm S.S.C. 100mm F2.801_DSC7310 by jgaster, on Flickr
Canon FD 55mm S.S.C. F1.2, Sony A7R
Canon FD 55mm S.S.C. 55mm F1.201_DSC7388 by jgaster, on FlickrCanon FD 100mm S.S.C. F2.8, Sony A7R
Canon FD 100mm S.S.C. 100mm F2.801_DSC7310 by jgaster, on FlickrAug 18, 2014 at 12:24 PM
p.454 #14Sony FE Images Thread
Frogfish wrote:
A7 & FD 80-200/4 L
Really loving this lens... I can tell I'm getting better at PP now that I've figured out actions and scripts.
Huge crop! Not even sure how much 200% prob. Not even sure what kind of bird this was. But the two mature birds kept diving and feeding the younger one. Was fun to watch them nursing the baby.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14955206702_9a337965e2_b.jpgDSC09744.jpg by A.Laskan, on FlickrHad to check your location first ! Looks very much like an Arctic Loon family (aka Black Throated Loon and in Eurasia we call Loons ... Divers, so Black Throated Divers here) - really nice birds !
http://identify.whatbird.com/obj/399/overview/Arctic_Loon.aspx
Thanks for the I.D., The longest lens I have with me is the 80-200/4, would have loved to get closer to these arctic loons. They're really beautiful! Looks like I need to start learning my birds!
Edited on Aug 18, 2014 at 12:40 PM · View previous versions
alaskandood wrote
Shots from today.A7 & FD 80-200/4 L
Really loving this lens... I can tell I'm getting better at PP now that I've figured out actions and scripts.
Huge crop! Not even sure how much 200% prob. Not even sure what kind of bird this was. But the two mature birds kept diving and feeding the younger one. Was fun to watch them nursing the baby.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14955206702_9a337965e2_b.jpgDSC09744.jpg by A.Laskan, on Flickr
http://identify.whatbird.com/obj/399/overview/Arctic_Loon.aspx
Thanks for the I.D., The longest lens I have with me is the 80-200/4, would have loved to get closer to these arctic loons. They're really beautiful! Looks like I need to start learning my birds!
Edited on Aug 18, 2014 at 12:40 PM · View previous versions
Aug 18, 2014 at 12:30 PM
p.454 #15Sony FE Images Thread
A7r / CY Zeiss 28/2.8
We followed many an unmarked road in France and were usually rewarded with something interesting to look at, or tasty to eat.
Normandy, July 2014 by whiskyvictor, on Flickr
Normandy, July 2014 by whiskyvictor, on Flickr
Normandy, July 2014 by whiskyvictor, on Flickr
We followed many an unmarked road in France and were usually rewarded with something interesting to look at, or tasty to eat.
Normandy, July 2014 by whiskyvictor, on Flickr
Normandy, July 2014 by whiskyvictor, on Flickr
Normandy, July 2014 by whiskyvictor, on Flickr
Aug 18, 2014 at 12:31 PM
p.454 #16Sony FE Images Thread
naturephoto1 wrote:
I know that I posted the first image in this pair earlier today. I am still trying to figure out how to limit the vibration of the A7r camera with long lenses in the vicinity of 200mm and longer particularly in the Portrait orientation. As more tests are run, I will try to post some results. But, both of these images were shot with my tripod mounted Leica R 280mm f4 Apo Telyt lens and my A7r. Images shot at ISO 800, I believe f4 for 1/160 second. and processed in LR5.6. The 2nd image is about a 100% crop....Show more →
Rich
The general rule to avoid camera shake, “vibration,” regardless of equipment, is to have a minimum shutter speed equal, or, 20% longer, than your lens in millimeters. For example, if you are using a 200mm lens, your minimum shutter speed should be somewhere around 1/240. Using that basic rule of photography, I have never had a shutter issue I could trace to any particular camera.
I know that I posted the first image in this pair earlier today. I am still trying to figure out how to limit the vibration of the A7r camera with long lenses in the vicinity of 200mm and longer particularly in the Portrait orientation. As more tests are run, I will try to post some results. But, both of these images were shot with my tripod mounted Leica R 280mm f4 Apo Telyt lens and my A7r. Images shot at ISO 800, I believe f4 for 1/160 second. and processed in LR5.6. The 2nd image is about a 100% crop....Show more →
Rich
The general rule to avoid camera shake, “vibration,” regardless of equipment, is to have a minimum shutter speed equal, or, 20% longer, than your lens in millimeters. For example, if you are using a 200mm lens, your minimum shutter speed should be somewhere around 1/240. Using that basic rule of photography, I have never had a shutter issue I could trace to any particular camera.
Aug 18, 2014 at 12:42 PM
p.454 #17Sony FE Images Thread
jgaster wrote:
RichRich
The general rule to avoid camera shake, “vibration,” regardless of equipment, is to have a minimum shutter speed equal, or, 20% longer, than your lens in millimeters. For example, if you are using a 200mm lens, your minimum shutter speed should be somewhere around 1/240. Using that basic rule of photography, I have never had a shutter issue I could trace to any particular camera.
That is a good rule to follow. Unfortunately, what Rich is taking about is the inherent shutter vibration of the A7r with longer lenses....and has nothing to do with photography.
Gregg
naturephoto1 wrote
I know that I posted the first image in this pair earlier today. I am still trying to figure out how to limit the vibration of the A7r camera with long lenses in the vicinity of 200mm and longer particularly in the Portrait orientation. As more tests are run, I will try to post some results. But, both of these images were shot with my tripod mounted Leica R 280mm f4 Apo Telyt lens and my A7r. Images shot at ISO 800, I believe f4 for 1/160 second. and processed in LR5.6. The 2nd image is about a 100% crop. Look at the amazing sharpness in some of the lines in some of the thistle flower; this is what I focused on at 14.4X in Live View of the A7r.Rich
The general rule to avoid camera shake, “vibration,” regardless of equipment, is to have a minimum shutter speed equal, or, 20% longer, than your lens in millimeters. For example, if you are using a 200mm lens, your minimum shutter speed should be somewhere around 1/240. Using that basic rule of photography, I have never had a shutter issue I could trace to any particular camera.
That is a good rule to follow. Unfortunately, what Rich is taking about is the inherent shutter vibration of the A7r with longer lenses....and has nothing to do with photography.
Gregg
Aug 18, 2014 at 01:00 PM
p.454 #19Sony FE Images Thread
Greggf wrote:
RichRich
The general rule to avoid camera shake, “vibration,” regardless of equipment, is to have a minimum shutter speed equal, or, 20% longer, than your lens in millimeters. For example, if you are using a 200mm lens, your minimum shutter speed should be somewhere around 1/240. Using that basic rule of photography, I have never had a shutter issue I could trace to any particular camera.That is a good rule to follow. Unfortunately, what Rich is taking about is the inherent shutter vibration of the A7r with longer lenses....and has nothing to do with photography.
Gregg
I know that a lot's been posted about the shutter vibration, but I have yet to experience this phenomenon . Granted, I've only had my A7r for about 5 weeks, but I've been playing with it at various focal lengths, from ultrawide up to 400mm. I've been shooting at a wide variety of shutter speeds, from 1/8 through the gamut and haven't experienced the shutter vibration at the range of focal lengths that's been reported to be problematic. If it matters, I'm using an older Gitzo GT2540 tripod with a Markins M-10 ballhead and RRS lever clamp for support, as well as a non-RRS L bracket. I don't use a cable release (don't have one yet for the Sony), but I make a habit of always using the 2-sec timer when on the tripod, even when shooting my 5D2.
jgaster wrote
naturephoto1 wrote
I know that I posted the first image in this pair earlier today. I am still trying to figure out how to limit the vibration of the A7r camera with long lenses in the vicinity of 200mm and longer particularly in the Portrait orientation. As more tests are run, I will try to post some results. But, both of these images were shot with my tripod mounted Leica R 280mm f4 Apo Telyt lens and my A7r. Images shot at ISO 800, I believe f4 for 1/160 second. and processed in LR5.6. The 2nd image is about a 100% crop. Look at the amazing sharpness in some of the lines in some of the thistle flower; this is what I focused on at 14.4X in Live View of the A7r.Rich
The general rule to avoid camera shake, “vibration,” regardless of equipment, is to have a minimum shutter speed equal, or, 20% longer, than your lens in millimeters. For example, if you are using a 200mm lens, your minimum shutter speed should be somewhere around 1/240. Using that basic rule of photography, I have never had a shutter issue I could trace to any particular camera.
Gregg
I know that a lot's been posted about the shutter vibration, but I have yet to experience this phenomenon . Granted, I've only had my A7r for about 5 weeks, but I've been playing with it at various focal lengths, from ultrawide up to 400mm. I've been shooting at a wide variety of shutter speeds, from 1/8 through the gamut and haven't experienced the shutter vibration at the range of focal lengths that's been reported to be problematic. If it matters, I'm using an older Gitzo GT2540 tripod with a Markins M-10 ballhead and RRS lever clamp for support, as well as a non-RRS L bracket. I don't use a cable release (don't have one yet for the Sony), but I make a habit of always using the 2-sec timer when on the tripod, even when shooting my 5D2.
Aug 18, 2014 at 01:51 PM
p.454 #20Sony FE Images Thread
Greggf wrote:
RichRich
The general rule to avoid camera shake, “vibration,” regardless of equipment, is to have a minimum shutter speed equal, or, 20% longer, than your lens in millimeters. For example, if you are using a 200mm lens, your minimum shutter speed should be somewhere around 1/240. Using that basic rule of photography, I have never had a shutter issue I could trace to any particular camera.That is a good rule to follow. Unfortunately, what Rich is taking about is the inherent shutter vibration of the A7r with longer lenses....and has nothing to do with photography.
Gregg
No, we are talking about the same thing. Try it for yourself before quoting untruths you read on the internet.
jgaster wrote
naturephoto1 wrote
I know that I posted the first image in this pair earlier today. I am still trying to figure out how to limit the vibration of the A7r camera with long lenses in the vicinity of 200mm and longer particularly in the Portrait orientation. As more tests are run, I will try to post some results. But, both of these images were shot with my tripod mounted Leica R 280mm f4 Apo Telyt lens and my A7r. Images shot at ISO 800, I believe f4 for 1/160 second. and processed in LR5.6. The 2nd image is about a 100% crop. Look at the amazing sharpness in some of the lines in some of the thistle flower; this is what I focused on at 14.4X in Live View of the A7r.Rich
The general rule to avoid camera shake, “vibration,” regardless of equipment, is to have a minimum shutter speed equal, or, 20% longer, than your lens in millimeters. For example, if you are using a 200mm lens, your minimum shutter speed should be somewhere around 1/240. Using that basic rule of photography, I have never had a shutter issue I could trace to any particular camera.
Gregg
No, we are talking about the same thing. Try it for yourself before quoting untruths you read on the internet.
Aug 18, 2014 at 02:04 PM