Spring has made at least a fleeting appearance so we went hiking in a state park today. Re-processed some photos from last summer the past week too, trying to go for a more film-like feel. I'm not sure why I did that, but I find it appealing, so I'll stick with it.
A couple more from the Chihuly garden / museum at the Seattle Center. The trick here for me was to not let the camera choose the exposure - most of these were 3 to 4 stops below the AE.
I believe the first is with the Leica R80/1.4, and the second is the M 35/1.4 FLE. Both wide open.
Taylor Sherman wrote:
A couple more from the Chihuly garden / museum at the Seattle Center. The trick here for me was to not let the camera choose the exposure - most of these were 3 to 4 stops below the AE.
uhoh7 wrote:
Aaron I see you made it to Idaho, nice one!
Yes I did, thanks! Beautiful area! The hoarfrost was so enchanting - we get it, but it's not common. I spent hours driving on back roads, taking photos and taking in the sights. :-D
Also had a day of snowshoeng at Craters of the Moon, which was a blast. I came back from Idaho with a better tan than I did from Hawaii and Florida!
Last week I visited the famous and historic Fort Apache in Arizona. The real thing is nothing like the movie version. All images are taken with A7RII and Leica WATE The log building built in 1871 was General George Crooks's residence. The stone buildings were built after a fire destroyed some of the original log buildings in 1891.
Last weeks of winter is the time when I particularly long for colours and light.Yesterday was a grey,dull day and I took a stroll around the old market with my newest acquisition - the Canon nFD 100/2.0.All shots wide open on the A7R.
And some more pictures - A7R+Leica Vario Elmar R 35-70/4.0,all wide open.
AGeoJO wrote:
Ole,
Your wife is very lovely and I didn't mean any disrespect with that.
Thank you very much Joshua, very kind of you to say that!
AGeoJO wrote:
You are not referring to sharpening of portraits of women, are you? I would exercise extreme caution with sharpening of portraits of women . In general, I would use 50+ but apply some softening effect by lowering the clarity, if I do it only in LR. If I process more in Photoshop using Nik Software for a more refined look, I lower the tonal contrast to -50. Again for portraits of women here. When converting to JPG for posting though I use the option of low sharpening.
That is very true! Women want softness I remember once when I took a photo of my wife with the Sony 55/1.8 quite close. I hadn't applied any sharpening, clarity or contrast, but her first comment was "wow my pores are so visible - can you remove them?" Thank you very much for your advice, and actually I think I am a bit more careful about the global sharpening than you are indicating here, I guess because I feel that I don't have enough control.
charles.K wrote:
Very nice shot of your wife
I have a very similar work flow to Joshua. With Lr with a lens like the CV 75/1.8 I would not use any sharpening or clarity to begin with. If the lighting is contrasty I would reduce the contrast between -10 to -20, increase sat to +5 or +10 to enrich the image. Then look carefully and increase sharpening at 100% with radius 0.5 and look at the effect with the ALT key. Sometimes you don't want any. Typically with the Batis 85 and FE 35/1.4 I use very little sharpening and no clarity. With the 50L and 85L II I use radius 0.5 and about 55 to 80. In essence it is very lens dependant. For portraits I sharpen for 100% view, so I there is little chance of over sharpening. With beachscapes/landscapes I sharpen for intended viewing size.
Also I often export quickly into PS from Lr as the adjustments are more refined. I really like the Color Effex Pro 4. One of my favorites is the "contrast only", and only use the "soft contrast". This is very powerful for portraits with flat lighting and adds dimension and shape subtlety and of course with layers in PS you can adjust the final effects. Another powerful addin is Imagenomic Portraiture when used subtly. Again with PS layers its effect can be made barely visible.
In effect my work flow only takes about 1 to 1.5 min per shot. Any longer I become bored with series of shots. ...Show more →
Thank you so much Charles! This is very helpful Really looking forward to testing some of this out. But we will have to see whether it is economically rational for me to invest in the Nik Software. But I hear a lot of good things about it!
Again, a big thank you to both Charles and Joshua!
While reducing equipment size this year I have been planning to keep Zeiss ZE-series APO135, even it's quite big lens. On focus plane everything is way above all expectations, and mostly boke is also very good. But sometimes boke is just not very good. Then I usually close down to f/4 or f/2.8 to improve boke quality. But still sometimes some backgrounds tend to not be as good as I would wish. Few scenarios like that below, not hopelessly bad, but I would wish
Leica Apo-Telyt-M 135mm f/3.5 would be interesting, but they seem to be quite rare on used market - also not so many photos shown here (uhoh7 has posted many, thanks for them) to get good understanding about it's rendering style.
Carl Zeiss APO-Sonnar T* 2/135 ZE @ f/2.8, 1/800s, ILCE-7 @ ISO 400
Carl Zeiss APO-Sonnar T* 2/135 ZE @ f/4.0, 1/800s, ILCE-7 @ ISO 400
Photo taken October 3, 2015 at 2:39 PM looking across Little Tupper Lake at the William C. Whitney Wilderness Area. This is in or near Long Lake, NY in the Adirondack Mountains. Image taken with my tripod mounted A7r and my Minolta CLE MC 40mm f2 M-Rokkor lens, ISO 100, lens set to approximately f11 for 1/125 second. Exposure corrected by +0.12 Stops. Processed in LR6.
