I've been noticing that a lot of pro photographers vary in settings that they choose for photographing weddings. Some shoot in M, some in A, not sure about P, S. In addition metering modes also vary.
I wanted to get an idea as to what most of you wedding photographers use for metering mode as well as shooting mode. Please explain why you shoot in such settings.
I don't have time to explain the basics but can just share modes:
Outdoor. Av w/exp. comp, M with non moving subjects or controllable portraits, AWB, Single shot focus and recompose back button. On cam flash ETTL - 2/3rds for fills.
Indoor. M with ETTL/M On -board flash. Custom. K and AWB. If using available light: Av/M High ISO's w/exp. comp. OCF via Radio triggers. Small venues 1-2 speedlights; big - AB1600 AC Power. Direct or ceiling bounce depends on the effect.
Indoor formals: AB1600 bounce, or large umbrella close to camera axle to avoid cross shadow. Max ISO is 400. F stops from f/4 - 5.6 - 8 (Otherwise I shoot wide open (most glass is 2.8))
Processional i switch to AI Servo otherwise single shot/multi frame 5dII is not fast on FPS anyways. For some fast/sport FPS I prefer 7d.
I shoot 90% in A mode with a combination of spot metering lock. So for scenes I know will work in matrix, I can just shoot and it's always set in matrix. If I want to isolate he exposure more accurately (because of what the scene presents) I will still have it set in matrix, but one press of the AEL button will trigger it to spot metering and to LOCK that exposure - if needed, I can then move aperture and ISO.
I mainly shoot like this as it gives me the control I want whilst being really quick and efficient.
Only really if I'm doing stupid dance photos will I go into fully manual mode for OCF.
Manual exposure about 98% of the time. Manual off-camera flash, and as a fill, iTTL or manual power on-camera bounce flash (the on-camera bounce is in iTTL at -1 to -2 stops more often than not).
I use Av about 95% of time, including when I shoot flash because it's simple, it's easy to set up, and I don't have to think about settings. I just look at the scene and adjust exposure compensation accordingly and shoot.
Outdoors w/natural light: Av w/exposure comp, matrix metering
Indoors w/natural light: Av w/exposure comp, matrix metering
Indoors w/bounced flash: Av w/exposure comp, ETTL, matrix metering
Reception w/bounced flash + OCF: Av w/exposure comp, ETTL, matrix metering, OCF in manual
Every wedding day is different, and each offers different situations and experiences. Some of those situations allow for Av with consistent results. Some don't. Sometimes, Manual is the smart choice.
I can't break it down to a ration because of these differences, but those are the two modes I use most. Some days I'll shoot 50/50, some 90/10, and some 10/90.
The chosen mode should depend on the shot and results you wish to achieve. Av might make that a little easier or faster sometimes.
i shoot manual for 98% of the day. i use spot metering and generally go +1 to +2 from skintone.
obviously, there is no right or wrong when it comes to the OPs question, but I'm surprised to see that people are shooting AV as frequently. Doesnt that lead to inconsistent exposures which leads to more time editing?
Manual mode 90% of the time.
The other is Av mode for when I know there is a huge swing - like indoor ceremony - dark church to sunny outside in a matter of seconds.
If i choose Av for a particular shooting - I am riding the compensation +3/4 to 1 stop.
Exposure is evaluative. But both cameras I use have spot weighted.
AF: spot with single shot. except the entrances or exits I switch to AI Servo.
Flash - on camera (ETTL) bounce with exp comp +1/2 - +1 stop.
I have run into situations where i will turn the on camera flash to manual.
OCF - Manual.
canerino wrote:
obviously, there is no right or wrong when it comes to the OPs question, but I'm surprised to see that people are shooting AV as frequently. Doesnt that lead to inconsistent exposures which leads to more time editing?
Not at all, if you pay attention to your environment and changing light. I mostly use Av during prep when there's very little changes in light. That's not to say you aren't right about consistency in post. You are dead right about that. Still, I find with experience it's minimal differences.
I think I'm actually more surprised by your +1 +2 technique. That seems a bit much. 2/3rds is about as much as I go when spot metering.
Manual 100% of the time. I'd say 50-60% of my images are spot on . 20-30% need a very small bump in exposure, either up or down (maybe +/- 1/3) and there are always a few that need a full stop of adjustment.
But I haven't had an image that I couldn't salvage in a long time.
Shooting manual definitely saves me a TON of time in post.
Maual v/s Av is what I see emerging from thread, but if light is mostly constant and not changing much when you are indoor (except reception), does it matter Manual v/s Av because once you set your exposure for certain light condition you are going to stay there as long as light is not changing and you keep watch over light condition. For outdoors it may matter as chances of light changing outdoor are higher but still once you set certain exposure and as long as you dont get drastic change in light will it matter M v/s Av ?
morganb4 wrote:
Depended on the camera. I thought the metering (especially flash) on the 5D3 was so awful that I felt I spent more time in spot or manual with it.
It's not just the 5DIII. I've been using canon ETTL for the past 10 years and I've never been completely happy with it.
canerino wrote:
obviously, there is no right or wrong when it comes to the OPs question, but I'm surprised to see that people are shooting AV as frequently. Doesnt that lead to inconsistent exposures which leads to more time editing?
Nope. I'm in complete control of exposure with spot metering lock.
derek10 wrote:
Can you expand on this? I'm curious to how you set your camera to go from Matrix metering to spot via AEL button
thanks
Difficult to expand further without showing you this face-to-face. Just picture your camera in regular Aperture Priority mode and matrix. You'll get an average, which may work for some scenes (knowing how your meter reacts is essential of course). I have a circle in the VF which indicates the spot metering area, so I know where I'm pointing it. With it in matrix, if I press the AEL button on the back of my camera it will instantly go to spot metering and lock that reading. This gives me the control associated with fully manual, but the speed and flexibility of aperture priority (meaning one turn can change aperture, rather than aperture then shutter adjustment. And I can change ISO with everything else responding automatically around my locked exposure).
