sjms wrote:
from what i can see the first negative volley in the thread was thrown out by you.
i can also answer the question on the machine shops in CA. the former home of the now defunct douglas aerospace manufacturing company. also lockeed northrop. lots of talented tech engineering machine heads out there still that supported them.
! You really think that's all that negative?
Come on! I've done far worse, and I think you have too!
That's OK, though. If you or your ballhead are at all offended by my frugality or questioning, I apologize now. I'm sure you'll both be fine in the end.
Thanks for the clarification on the machine shop issue.
Arka C.
Edited by lordarka on Aug 13, 2004 at 03:25 AM GMT
sjms wrote:
you say it with such pride too. its sad. but then it not my issue. just a minor annoyance.
Eh? Man, it's a just a ballhead. (perhaps it's folly to question a man's choice in ballheads) Initially, it did not interest me all that much. Later, I asked what makes it better; in the end, I still don't agree with you. If you find any of this even remotely annoying, I have to wonder who's taking this matter too seriously.
I'll say it again; my comments were not intended to offend anyone personally. If you are offended or annoyed, I am sorry for that.
And, as I said before, enjoy your ballhead. You've earned it in both dollars and defense.
How are the control knobs? I remember reading that they sit on ball bearings - this alone should make locking the knob an experience by itself. So how is it in real life?
Also, since the head seems short, do you see any potential problems with tripods that have wide mounting plates? Judging by the pictures, when the camera is flopped to vertical, camera base can come in contact with top of the tripod (if it's wider than the head).
I am struggling between the RRS head and the new Novoflex ClassicBall.
twist and it locks. no real pressure required. all the knobs are ring sealed. all actions are damped so you don't go trying spin the bottle with a 300 2.8 on there.
believe me its not that big a struggle. actually from the standpoint of price. the novoflex classicball 5 at B&H is $500 w/o a QR system (screw base) and supports only 26 lbs vs 50lb for RRS. neat design on the friction control but is it alloy or plastic? weight is slightly heavier the the RRS. 5 tension levels vs 10 on the RRS. 1 yr vs 5 yr warranty on RRS. the RRS at $455 with an AS type QR (their quick quick release). i don't personally see where the competition is between the two or maybe i'm missing something there.
yes once you buy into the AS clamp system you will spend $$$ for the plates. but they do make things easier.
i have 2 tripods a manfrotto 3021pro w/a self leveling base and a gitzo 2227. with it mounted on either one the head base is slightly larger then the base of the ctr post. no contact issues here.
lordarka- i have much greater annoyances in my life then you. you're classified as a petty one. you're occasionally good for a laugh and not to be taken seriously.
mt-m wrote:
How are the control knobs? I remember reading that they sit on ball bearings - this alone should make locking the knob an experience by itself. So how is it in real life?
Also, since the head seems short, do you see any potential problems with tripods that have wide mounting plates? Judging by the pictures, when the camera is flopped to vertical, camera base can come in contact with top of the tripod (if it's wider than the head).
I am struggling between the RRS head and the new Novoflex ClassicBall.
I haven't seen the reference to the ball bearings in the control knobs. All three of the knobs work smoothly and have a solid feel.
The pictures on the first page show the RRS atop the rapid center column of my Gitzo 1325. If the head is flopped over, it must be done with the quick release lever facing to top or to either side. If the flip lever is in the lower 100 degrees of rotation it will contact the base plate of the center column. Something to watch out for but fairly simple to work around.
The Novoflex certainly looks like a solid piece of equipment as well.
sjms wrote:
lordarka- i have much greater annoyances in my life then you. you're classified as a petty one. you're occasionally good for a laugh and not to be taken seriously.
! At least you think I'm good for something! You know that makes my day.
Thanks for the comments guys. Here's the line from RRS website about ball bearings: "Large main locking knob incorporates stainless steel ballbearings for a lifetime of silky smooth control".
sjms, I use arca-swiss clamp presently, so I would also attach it to the Novoflex head. The reason I look at the Novoflex is that just like the RRS it seems to be of extremely high quality. I don't really *need* either one - it's more like a very cool new toy for me.
novoflex has made many interesting and highly useful pieces gear over at least the past 28 years i have shot. but in truth though i'll take RRS when it comes to this product.
Thanks for all the great commentary on this new head.
Question on the new flip lock.... how easily does the lock 'flip open'? The concern being if a big lens was being carried on your shoulder and something were to hit the flip lock.
mgraf wrote:
Thanks for all the great commentary on this new head.
Question on the new flip lock.... how easily does the lock 'flip open'? The concern being if a big lens was being carried on your shoulder and something were to hit the flip lock.
The flip lock has an "over center" feature, that is it has some travel built in after it cinches up the plate but stops before it touches the base. I don't think you could jar it lose. But , as someone pointed out earlier in this thread, it could be snagged on something like underbrush that will release the lever.
I don't use one on my monopod for just that reason, BUT — in fairness, the design is such that at the flip lock's middle position, to which it is most likely to get bumped or snagged if at all, the jaws are still closed tightly enough that the plate won't just pop out verically — it will only slide back and forth. So, if you're using a lens plate with safety stops like the Wimberleys, in theory you won't lose the whole rig.
when a camera is attached to the base with the flip lock and the lock is fully engaged between the over center mechanism and bellville springs/washers there is approx 50lbs of clamping force.
now also when engaged the fliplock follows the shape of the clamp and then tucked under the camera itself making it a effort to try to open. of course as was mentioned if you leave it at the half way point(slide adjustment) and pick it up you're on your own.
now after reading in these forums for a few years now i am confident someone will manage to stuff it up completely and blame the manufacturer for it.
I've got lever-lock RRS clamps on my Sidekick, monopod, and B-1. I've had guys on various forums state that they were afraid that the lever locks would snag and get opened - man, that's a one in a billion possibility. I typically don't wade through heavy brush. And I can't believe that all the gear-head obsessive types that have gear that looks new out of the box after 10 years are using their tripods w/ lens attached to clear brush - I'm just not seeing how when walking w/ camera/lens mounted to tripod, holding it over your shoulder, something is going to snag that one place at the right angle in order to pop open the clamp. I just don't let my stuff drag through brush and tree limbs. And as far as having a tripod fall over and the clamp pop open - I doubt the clamp opening (if it did) would make much difference in the damage done.
The beauty of the lever clamp is you know just looking at it if it is tightly closed or open. With the knobs, you could start to tighten, move to adjust something else, and forget to finish securing the clamp. I've heard guys tell of it, I know it happens.
Actually, purely for the purpose of avoiding snags and the like, I try to keep my tripod in a bad with some other useful things when going through brush.
! You really think that's all that negative? 
I doubt the clamp opening (if it did) would make much difference in the damage done.