thrice wrote:
I have two questions regarding the camera..
#1 is 30s really the longest exposure time?
#2 is dark frame subtraction compulsory on this new camera?
With a power input on the new grip I would have loved to do star trails either as a very long exposure, or more practically (with digital) using an intervalometer and stacking.
I think even Leica folks don't know yet. These are decisions that can be implemented in the firmware. If you petition them enough, they might change their mind
thrice wrote:
I have two questions regarding the camera..
#1 is 30s really the longest exposure time?
#2 is dark frame subtraction compulsory on this new camera?
With a power input on the new grip I would have loved to do star trails either as a very long exposure, or more practically (with digital) using an intervalometer and stacking.
#1 Wasn't it 60 seconds? I've read in some interview the guy from leica said its only 60 seconds because leica wanted to maintain an certain quality to the pictures. With longer shutter times he said something about stacking, but I didn't really understand what method he meant.
Maybe some of the longer shuttertimes people know what method it is
Yes Robert I remember the same. Stacking is just merging many photos together. There is a special software that makes it easy. The problem with stacking is the dark frame exposure. Maybe that's why it's better not to exceed 30 to 60 s.
Ron, I agree there will be much better cameras for video out there but for me it's nice to carry less gear when on vacations and short outings and not needing a separate video setup but still bring able to shoot some decent video on a rangefinder .. I can't wait to see some video samples from the new M
edwardkaraa wrote:
Yes Robert I remember the same. Stacking is just merging many photos together. There is a special software that makes it easy. The problem with stacking is the dark frame exposure. Maybe that's why it's better not to exceed 30 to 60 s.
Why would the dark frame be a problem? I found in the internet the dark frame is just a picture with the lens cap on to find al the bright pixels.
Why not just make 1 of that shots at home and use it for al the other pictures?
Bijltje wrote:
Why would the dark frame be a problem? I found in the internet the dark frame is just a picture with the lens cap on to find al the bright pixels.
Why not just make 1 of that shots at home and use it for al the other pictures?
If it was so simple the camera designers would have taken a few dark frames as reference, but if I'm not mistaken the white pixels and noise caused by long exposures will vary depending on the sensor temperature and other factors. That's why you take the dark frame immediately after the exposure.
In this case the dark frame would be a problem because imagine after a 4 minutes exposure you need to wait another 4 minutes before the next one, which would make stacking impossible. The stars would have moved during this time causing interrupted trails.
joe88 wrote:
Ron, I agree there will be much better cameras for video out there but for me it's nice to carry less gear when on vacations and short outings and not needing a separate video setup but still bring able to shoot some decent video on a rangefinder .. I can't wait to see some video samples from the new M
Joe, there is a short video clip from the M in this John Dooley M demo video at 5:40:
To my eyes, there's a bit of jello going on...
Bijltje wrote:
Why would the dark frame be a problem? I found in the internet the dark frame is just a picture with the lens cap on to find al the bright pixels.
Why not just make 1 of that shots at home and use it for al the other pictures?
Here's an example I experienced this summer: fireworks. I had a 3-camera set up. Canon 1DIV, 1DIII, Ricoh GXR. Only the GXR required full DFS for the same duration as the exposure. Based on past experience with this fireworks display, I knew I wanted a 30 second exposure. The show was not a really big one, therefore not a lot of bursts at one time, requiring 30 seconds to get a good grouping. It was also a relatively short show, at around 15 minutes. So, after futzing with the GXR for the first few minutes of the show, I got less than 10 images because each 30 seconds totaled 60 with DFS. With the Canons, there was a 1-2 second pause between exposures.
edwardkaraa wrote:
If it was so simple the camera designers would have taken a few dark frames as reference, but if I'm not mistaken the white pixels and noise caused by long exposures will vary depending on the sensor temperature and other factors. That's why you take the dark frame immediately after the exposure.
In this case the dark frame would be a problem because imagine after a 4 minutes exposure you need to wait another 4 minutes before the next one, which would make stacking impossible. The stars would have moved during this time causing interrupted trails.
Ahh if DFS is optional that would be great, since it is mandatory on the M9.
Usually when I'm shooting star trails it's freezing so the camera stays quite cool.
Sitting next to the camera for 6 hours sounds kind of unpleasant though, hopefully an intervalometer with a mechanical release (even though the new shutter release is electronic) will solve the problem.
Excuse this average photo but it gives an idea of what I want to do. Unfortunately something bumped my camera about halfway through the exposure I blame the local birdlife which seemed surprisingly active at 5am when I retrieved the camera. http://www.aeos-photo.com.au/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Startrails001.jpg
Some pretty intense colour shift due to reciprocity failure there as well, don't believe the internets that say Kodak E100G doesn't suffer from it.
I blame the local birdlife which seemed surprisingly active at 5am when I retrieved the camera.