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Archive 2012 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4
  
 
mawz
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p.5 #1 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


wolfloid wrote:
That chimes with my experience exactly, and I completely agree. The MX is a tough simple camera, but the viewfinder, though large is not that bright, same goes for the OMs. The MX metering can also be cranky (though very intuitive to use through the viewfinder). Om lenses are generally great, but their bodies, though very nice and small, and with the exception of the OM3/4tis, are not top quality.

The LX, on the other hand, is a really refined beast. Very, very tough, superb viewfinder (with very intuitive and effective LED meter indication), excellent, reliable metering, interchangeable prisms: in every...Show more →

I would strongly disagree on the FM3a, they're massively overpriced for what you get (an FE2 with a battery-independent shutter). If you could get FM3a's for FM2n money I'd probably have a different opinion, but the FM3a's go for more money than any other reasonably available Nikon film body except the F6. Buy two FE2's, get them CLA'd and you still come in under FM3a money.
May 24, 2012 at 08:10 PM
wolfloid
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p.5 #2 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


I would strongly disagree on the FM3a, they're massively overpriced for what you get (an FE2 with a battery-independent shutter). If you could get FM3a's for FM2n money I'd probably have a different opinion, but the FM3a's go for more money than any other reasonably available Nikon film body except the F6. Buy two FE2's, get them CLA'd and you still come in under FM3a money.

Hmm, this doesn't add up, at least in the UK. Here an FE2 in ex condition sells for about 200 pounds, and an FM3a in equivalent condition sells for about 300. Add in a CLA and your talking the same price. The FM3a has the not inconsiderable advantage that it is both a manual camera and a fully auto machine, like the previously unique LX. It also has a simple button press fill flash. I'd take the FM3a over an FE2 any day.

As I say, I have an LX, which I think is a great camera - especially with the viewfinder screen combination you mentioned, which I have - but one in cosmetically good condition is going to cost 300 pounds, in better to mint condition anything up to 700 pounds. There's one here for 485. Factor in a CLA -often necessary to get correct infinity focus, given that the rubber stop under the mirror shrinks or decays over time, or to revamp the led disply - and you're looking at 120 more.

I love the LX, and mine has been very reliable, but I think a newer FM3a, though a slightly lesser camera (weaker viewfinder, non interchangeable prism) has a better, cheaper, more easily available choice of good quality lenses and is much newer. I stick by what I said earlier, it is a wiser buy today.
May 25, 2012 at 09:02 AM
mawz
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p.5 #3 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


wolfloid wrote:
Hmm, this doesn't add up, at least in the UK. Here an FE2 in ex condition sells for about 200 pounds, and an FM3a in equivalent condition sells for about 300. Add in a CLA and your talking the same price. The FM3a has the not inconsiderable advantage that it is both a manual camera and a fully auto machine, like the previously unique LX. It also has a simple button press fill flash. I'd take the FM3a over an FE2 any day.



You've got unusually cheap FM3a's and unusually expensive FE2's. At KEH, for EX grade, FM3a's are over $500 and Chrome FE2's run $150.
May 25, 2012 at 10:28 AM
wolfloid
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p.5 #4 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


You've got unusually cheap FM3a's and unusually expensive FE2's. At KEH, for EX grade, FM3a's are over $500 and Chrome FE2's run $150.

I just went to the Aperture Photographic site - a very reliable dealer that I use.
May 25, 2012 at 11:27 AM
OneAnt
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p.5 #5 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


I got an F3 as a loaner until I decide what Nikon body I want. I have a preference for the Nikons so that I can make double use of my zeiss kit. Its here now and loaded with Tri-X.

The Controls;
The use is exclusively for street but its first drawback is everything has fiddly locks. ASA requires a lift and turn of a dial on the top left and the scale can only be read from the rear and in a location where you are more likely to grip the dial, Not a deal breaker I know but with the latitude in b&w film I'd likely push/pull in the same roll. Exp +/- is on this same dial and requires you to somehow engage a press lock thats in an impossible position to do one handed unless you contort your fingers and turn the dial to contort them further. Its a very firm press and a very small button so the experience is something akin to the pointe work in Swan Lake but with a twist that would snap you at the knuckles.
All these adjustment dials have scales of adjustment but none of the dials have any position increments and are free-wheeling.

The shutter speed/mode dial(to 1/2000 sec); Sits nice and high on the body with a good grip. The only mode A(Aperture) locks the dial and a button at the dial centre releases it again and this is fine.

The winder has the shutter at its centre and an on/off at its base. I leave it on as the winder at its closed position shuts off the meter. Opening the winder and a half press activates the meter for 16sec and the shutter speed (LED top left in viewfinder) and a + - for exposure and + and - display at the same time for correct exposure (center weighted 12 mm). It will take a little getting used to and I wish it could show a stop either side but my mind will just have to be a bit quicker I guess.
Both this exposure/shutter and an aperture view use small windows at the front of the body to back-light the info so night shooting in the viewfinder is going to be ...dark or as bright as the light I point it to.

The winder action is a smooth as melted chocolate. The shutter is ideally located and has a perfect half press and trigger.
Should the battery fail there is a mechanical shutter release on the front of the body that has a nice fold out lever. On the centre post of this lever is the Exposure-Lock button and above it the dof preview that shares a MLU lever.

On the top right of the body, right next to the winder/shutter and above the take-up spool is a control critical to you landscape togs, a lever that activates multiple exposure(grin).

The body is 760grams (no I wont convert it to lbs and color is spelt colour and herbs has a h in it ...its not erbs). A Titanium version is lighter and will lighten your wallet by 4x.

There is a small grip but the body with lens is a little heavy for such a small grip and while it does have a red stripe that was designed by an Italian no less, its lacking and I think would become tiring as I always carry a camera by the grip. There is an aftermarket metal grip not unlike those for an M body but it seems to make the camera heavier and the increase in grip is proportional to this new weigh gain. Its a very narrow body and so it requires a stronger grip so if I decide on an F3 then I'll likely get a cf-22 leather case.

It comes with the standard K screen (horizontal split) and is very easy to focus but I'll try some others and some diopters as well as this one is a bit fuzzy for me.

Its black and its got a red stripe and some of the brass is just showing so it has just enough tease to call it sexy.

Ant.
ɹǝpun uʍop puɐl ǝɥʇ ɯoɹɟ
May 31, 2012 at 01:48 AM
mawz
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p.5 #6 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


Nikon's biggest ergonomic weak point is that combined ASA/Exposure compensation dial. It's on the F3, FE, FE2, FA, FG and the FM3a (which is more of an FE3m in design, zero FM DNA in it). And yes, the LCD on the F3 is a PITA, it's small, doesn't show as much info as the traditional readouts and the backlight rarely works.

If you want a smaller, good MF body that has AE and a better ASA/Expsure compensation setup my suggestion is an F801 or F801s (N8008/N8008s in the US). They're cheap, reasonably small & light and are IMHO the best AE bodies for the MF shooter on Nikon. They sorta suck for AF aside from the fact they'll actually lock on in light where anything else struggles.

Oh, and the F3 was the first Nikon with the Red Stripe, it was the major design cue added by that Italian fellow.
May 31, 2012 at 09:52 AM
carlitos
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p.5 #7 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


Zeiss lenses are really nice when viewed thru an all glass viewfinder like the F3 has. Try an "L" screen, which is a split screen with the split at 45 degrees.

Did the red stripe come before the red dot?


May 31, 2012 at 11:08 AM
FlyPenFly
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p.5 #8 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


The camera came in today.

I am Astounded by the build quality. Wow. This thing is just beautifully made with a level of attention to detail that is just a pleasure. I love just playing with all the levers and buttons on it.

I'll make a video of it later.

The lugs are in a weird place but we'll see how much that affects handling later.

If the OM-D is this well built, I should have bought one yesterday.

Everything is just chunky and well made with such positive feedback clicks to everything.
Jun 02, 2012 at 12:41 PM
carstenw
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p.5 #9 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


I am getting all teary-eyed. An OM2n was my first camera, *sniff*!
Jun 02, 2012 at 04:54 PM
rtallent
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p.5 #10 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


Pentax LX and/or MX.
Jun 02, 2012 at 08:38 PM
FlyPenFly
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p.5 #11 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


Any opinions on 50mm 1.8 vs 1.4?

Really like the size of the 1.8. I'll probably shooting either at f2 mor 2.8 most of the time.
Jun 02, 2012 at 09:41 PM
redisburning
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p.5 #12 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


buy neither and get the 50/3.5 instead.

I own all 3, as per the picture I posted.
Jun 02, 2012 at 10:28 PM
mawz
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p.5 #13 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


FlyPenFly wrote:
Any opinions on 50mm 1.8 vs 1.4?

Really like the size of the 1.8. I'll probably shooting either at f2 mor 2.8 most of the time.

I liked the 1.8 better, but I had the latest MiJ 1.8, which is the best version of it and a VERY early 1.4, which is the worst version of that lens.
Jun 03, 2012 at 10:47 AM
redisburning
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p.5 #14 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


on that last little bit about the 50/1.4, YMMV.

mine did.
Jun 03, 2012 at 01:17 PM
FlyPenFly
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p.5 #15 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


I thought there were scanner recommendations in this thread but they seem to be gone?

What was that decent enough ~$300 film scanner?
Jun 05, 2012 at 08:08 AM
debuggerus
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p.5 #16 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


for 35mm? I really like the Minolta Scan Dual IV.
Jun 05, 2012 at 08:59 AM
mawz
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p.5 #17 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


Yep, the SDIV is the way to go on that budget, $200-250 for the scanner plus a copy of Vuescan.

The SDIII is also good and usually cheaper, but budget for a replacement 35mm neg holder, the stock one is crap but the SDIV's stock one is MUCH better and fully compatible with the III.
Jun 05, 2012 at 09:07 AM
FlyPenFly
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p.5 #18 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


I thought there was a recommendation for a modern one that came with a copy of Silver EFEX Pro?
Jun 05, 2012 at 09:37 AM
FlyPenFly
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p.5 #19 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


Okay I think it was this one:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/685030-REG/Plustek_60_A29_BBM310_C_OpticFilm_7600i_SE_Scanner.html

And I might have been confusing Silver Efex Pro with Silverfast


Jun 05, 2012 at 09:52 AM
redisburning
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p.5 #20 · Nikon F3 vs Olympus OM2 - 50mm F1.4


an excellent kit coupled with the early 50/1.4

I see that you have quite the array of films there, what I see missing that I can unconditionally recommend is Fuji Acros.
Jun 05, 2012 at 05:30 PM
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