This topic is in the 2012 archive. You can read it and like its posts here. It is read only.
Archive 2012Leica help please
p.2 #1Leica help please
... black fabric ...
Synthetic fabrics are the ones to watch out for.
Synthetic fabrics are the ones to watch out for.
Apr 10, 2012 at 12:20 PM
p.2 #2Leica help please
Makten wrote:
If you hold the filter in your hand and look through it, you will actually see a strong cyan cast when the filter is tilted. Since wide lenses "see" more tilted angles, they will thus give more problems than long lenses. It's sort of the same problem as with having the exit pupil close to the sensor, but it this case we're at the other end of the optical system instead.
Many landscapes (most?) will probably do fine without a filter. I think I remember that I had the worst IR problems at dusk and dawn for some reason, with a...Show more →
Good info Martin. I almost always shoot landscape stuff with the M8 - perhaps this is why I don't see strange color cast that often.
CVickery wrote
Interesting thought wrt wide lenses. I hadn't thought of that. I wonder how my ZM21/4.5 performs w/o the UV/IR filter. On the M8 it sometimes benefits from the use of Cornerfix, but perhaps for landscape shots removing the filter might be a better idea.Many landscapes (most?) will probably do fine without a filter. I think I remember that I had the worst IR problems at dusk and dawn for some reason, with a...Show more →
Good info Martin. I almost always shoot landscape stuff with the M8 - perhaps this is why I don't see strange color cast that often.
Apr 10, 2012 at 12:58 PM
p.2 #3Leica help please
If anyone is in or around Germany and needs some of these filters, I still have some left over in various sizes, after selling off my Leica M8 system.
Apr 10, 2012 at 03:09 PM
p.2 #4Leica help please
carstenw wrote:
If anyone is in or around Germany and needs some of these filters, I still have some left over in various sizes, after selling off my Leica M8 system.
Does Calgary count as "in or around Germany"?
Actually, I may be in Berlin in a few weeks for business...
If anyone is in or around Germany and needs some of these filters, I still have some left over in various sizes, after selling off my Leica M8 system.
Does Calgary count as "in or around Germany"?
Actually, I may be in Berlin in a few weeks for business...Apr 10, 2012 at 04:19 PM
p.2 #6Leica help please
Now I need help! 
Help!
My 28-70/3.5-4.5 lens arrived today. It is beautiful looking, but I'm experiencing several problems, one of them pretty severe.
These first two problems are not "the issue" -- just thought I'd cover all bases.
Problem 1 is not that big of deal -- bad exposure, and false reads from a chipped adapter than isn't set up. I can rip the chip off if need be and get accurate stopped-down metering from my Canons.
Problem 2 is related to the adapter as well -- error code on the 1D2 and 1Ds2 -- probably the internal lever is contacting part of the adapter flange -- I can fix that or figure it out.
Problem 3 is the big one, and maybe the deal breaker. On the 5D2, the mirror seems to hang up, illuminating only about 2/5 of the frame. I'm against shaving the mirror or the rear of the lens, so if that is the only solution, the lens goes back -- unless there is an easy home remedy that won't ruin the 5D2.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7172.jpg
The only body the lens works on is the APS-C 60D with it's greater depth from the back the lens. But of course, that's the body I don't intend to use with the Leica lens.
I compared the back protrusion of the 28-70 to my 60 macro, and it does stick out quite a bit more (the 60 macro works fine). I switched adapters, and the same error codes come up on the 1D series and the same mirror sticking on the 5D2.
Any idea how to make the lens function on the 5D2?
Help!
My 28-70/3.5-4.5 lens arrived today. It is beautiful looking, but I'm experiencing several problems, one of them pretty severe.
These first two problems are not "the issue" -- just thought I'd cover all bases.
Problem 1 is not that big of deal -- bad exposure, and false reads from a chipped adapter than isn't set up. I can rip the chip off if need be and get accurate stopped-down metering from my Canons.
Problem 2 is related to the adapter as well -- error code on the 1D2 and 1Ds2 -- probably the internal lever is contacting part of the adapter flange -- I can fix that or figure it out.
Problem 3 is the big one, and maybe the deal breaker. On the 5D2, the mirror seems to hang up, illuminating only about 2/5 of the frame. I'm against shaving the mirror or the rear of the lens, so if that is the only solution, the lens goes back -- unless there is an easy home remedy that won't ruin the 5D2.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7172.jpg
The only body the lens works on is the APS-C 60D with it's greater depth from the back the lens. But of course, that's the body I don't intend to use with the Leica lens.
I compared the back protrusion of the 28-70 to my 60 macro, and it does stick out quite a bit more (the 60 macro works fine). I switched adapters, and the same error codes come up on the 1D series and the same mirror sticking on the 5D2.
Any idea how to make the lens function on the 5D2?
Apr 11, 2012 at 03:50 PM
p.2 #7Leica help please
Are you willing to file it? Post a photo of the rear of the lens...
Apr 11, 2012 at 03:53 PM
p.2 #8Leica help please
Of course . . .
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7186.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7181.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7180.jpg
The 28-70 protective ring for the rear element stands quite a bit further back than the 60. It does complete the cycling of the shutter in the 1D2 and the 1Ds2, but give error message and camera must be hard reset with on and off.
Here's an unfocused shot from the full frame 1Ds2:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/036N8903.jpg
Here's an unfocused shot from the APS-H 1.3X crop:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IY0S5415.jpg
The cameras are capable of taking the shot -- it's like they want to. But likely I'll need to work the adapter on the 1D2 and 1Ds2 to get it to avoid the error shutdown.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7186.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7181.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7180.jpg
The 28-70 protective ring for the rear element stands quite a bit further back than the 60. It does complete the cycling of the shutter in the 1D2 and the 1Ds2, but give error message and camera must be hard reset with on and off.
Here's an unfocused shot from the full frame 1Ds2:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/036N8903.jpg
Here's an unfocused shot from the APS-H 1.3X crop:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IY0S5415.jpg
The cameras are capable of taking the shot -- it's like they want to. But likely I'll need to work the adapter on the 1D2 and 1Ds2 to get it to avoid the error shutdown.
Apr 11, 2012 at 04:51 PM
p.2 #9Leica help please
Can the protective shroud be removed? With the R->EF adapter in place, the rear element may be sufficiently well protected without it.
Apr 11, 2012 at 04:58 PM
p.2 #10Leica help please
Michael -- That would be an awesome solution, if it can possibly be done. I see that as well as a protector, since this is a zoom the shroud is quite long and might act as a guide? It is baffled with micro ridges to keep stray light from bouncing around, but if the lens group will stay stable, I'm all for removing it, if it's not too hard to do. Any idea of the procedure?
PS -- I have the 1D2 working now -- just clearing the mirror! Still haven't removed any metal. I'll try smoothing the rear of the protective sleeve.
PSS -- I got the 1Ds2 to clear with burnishing using a chrome-plated large screwdriver shaft. Teh 5D2 shows more clearance -- over 1/2 the frame -- but not enough. I will go to a glass plate and 400 grip wet sand paper (dry) and tape off the open areas -- should be more even than filing. All I need is maybe 0.010". Sound good?
Edited on Apr 11, 2012 at 05:53 PM · View previous versions
PS -- I have the 1D2 working now -- just clearing the mirror! Still haven't removed any metal. I'll try smoothing the rear of the protective sleeve.
PSS -- I got the 1Ds2 to clear with burnishing using a chrome-plated large screwdriver shaft. Teh 5D2 shows more clearance -- over 1/2 the frame -- but not enough. I will go to a glass plate and 400 grip wet sand paper (dry) and tape off the open areas -- should be more even than filing. All I need is maybe 0.010". Sound good?
Edited on Apr 11, 2012 at 05:53 PM · View previous versions
Apr 11, 2012 at 05:18 PM
p.2 #11Leica help please
Gunzorro wrote:
Michael -- That would be an awesome solution, if it can possibly be done. I see that as well as a protector, since this is a zoom the shroud is quite long and might act as a guide? It is baffled with micro ridges to keep stray light from bouncing around, but if the lens group will stay stable, I'm all for removing it, if it's not too hard to do. Any idea of the procedure?
I would be very surprised if the shroud was actually guiding the elements, especially the visible parts with the light baffle ridges (that would make a pretty crude and bumpy guide); however, I don't actually know anything for sure about this lens.
The crude way to remove the shroud would just be to file or dremel tool a few mm of it away (being careful to cover/protect the rear element during the operation and prevent metal filings from falling into the lens barrel); someone familiar with the mechanical details of the lens might know a more elegant way to remove the unit whole. I see at least one screw on the plate holding the shroud --- is there a set of those that can be removed to take the whole back plate off (at least temporarily to help with filing down the shroud, in case it has other important functions)?
Michael -- That would be an awesome solution, if it can possibly be done. I see that as well as a protector, since this is a zoom the shroud is quite long and might act as a guide? It is baffled with micro ridges to keep stray light from bouncing around, but if the lens group will stay stable, I'm all for removing it, if it's not too hard to do. Any idea of the procedure?
I would be very surprised if the shroud was actually guiding the elements, especially the visible parts with the light baffle ridges (that would make a pretty crude and bumpy guide); however, I don't actually know anything for sure about this lens.
The crude way to remove the shroud would just be to file or dremel tool a few mm of it away (being careful to cover/protect the rear element during the operation and prevent metal filings from falling into the lens barrel); someone familiar with the mechanical details of the lens might know a more elegant way to remove the unit whole. I see at least one screw on the plate holding the shroud --- is there a set of those that can be removed to take the whole back plate off (at least temporarily to help with filing down the shroud, in case it has other important functions)?
Apr 11, 2012 at 05:24 PM
p.2 #12Leica help please
Michael -- I've looked at the Leica mount there after removing the adapter, and it's hard to tell what might be the proper step -- probably removing the ten screws of the lens mount would be first. Seems like a fishing trip to me, with no assured end in sight.
I think I will do the circular "grinding" on the sheet of glass that I use for pigment grinding/making oil paints (mulling, actually). No much can go wrong, and I have those indented ridges to act as guides, at least for the first few thousanths of an inch.
Seems like a fishing trip to me, with no assured end in sight. I think I will do the circular "grinding" on the sheet of glass that I use for pigment grinding/making oil paints (mulling, actually). No much can go wrong, and I have those indented ridges to act as guides, at least for the first few thousanths of an inch.
Apr 11, 2012 at 05:57 PM
p.2 #13Leica help please
Is this thread about Leica M or Leica R?
Anyhow, if you are after a reasonably priced body to "experience" the digital M, the M8 is fine. M8.2's can be pricey with not much gained as far as shooting goes except a more durable shutter and "more accurate framlines." The sapphire glass, black dot, and paint is hokey if you are after a shooter. If you are after a collector or something that looks amazing, then yeah, the M8.2 is the way to go. It is kind of like the M9/M9P.
As far as the lenses go, the zm stuff is pretty great. The leica stuff is great but pricey. The wallet typically chooses which direction you go here!
Ok, the UV/IR issue. It is real and if you want accurate and true colors without messing around on the computer forever, then put one on each lens! Sure, you may not see it in every photo you take but when it shows, IT SHOWS! The coding is more for vignetting, color cast and "proper exif." Below, is a shot I took with a M8 and a 50mm Elmar-M. It's nothing special but it shows what can happen with the UV/IR issue.
All the blacks were Black, not violet! Yeah, the leica isn't the typical product photography camera, but it made do. Again, if you want accurate colors stick a UV/IR filter on each lens.
Anyhow, if you are after a reasonably priced body to "experience" the digital M, the M8 is fine. M8.2's can be pricey with not much gained as far as shooting goes except a more durable shutter and "more accurate framlines." The sapphire glass, black dot, and paint is hokey if you are after a shooter. If you are after a collector or something that looks amazing, then yeah, the M8.2 is the way to go. It is kind of like the M9/M9P.
As far as the lenses go, the zm stuff is pretty great. The leica stuff is great but pricey. The wallet typically chooses which direction you go here!
Ok, the UV/IR issue. It is real and if you want accurate and true colors without messing around on the computer forever, then put one on each lens! Sure, you may not see it in every photo you take but when it shows, IT SHOWS! The coding is more for vignetting, color cast and "proper exif." Below, is a shot I took with a M8 and a 50mm Elmar-M. It's nothing special but it shows what can happen with the UV/IR issue.
All the blacks were Black, not violet! Yeah, the leica isn't the typical product photography camera, but it made do. Again, if you want accurate colors stick a UV/IR filter on each lens.
Apr 11, 2012 at 06:06 PM
p.2 #14Leica help please
Gunzorro wrote:
Michael -- I've looked at the Leica mount there after removing the adapter, and it's hard to tell what might be the proper step -- probably removing the ten screws of the lens mount would be first. Seems like a fishing trip to me, with no assured end in sight.
I learned as a child that there is always an assured end in sight --- with sufficient persistence in removing screws, any device can be reduced to a large pile of inscrutable small parts.
Good luck with the grinding process. Won't the pigment grinding sheet be intolerably slow? That sounds like something that would have too fine a grit for much but a final finishing step; something more like 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper held down on a flat surface (with a sprinkling of water to keep the dust/grit cloud from drifting into the lens) might save you a few hours of work.
Michael -- I've looked at the Leica mount there after removing the adapter, and it's hard to tell what might be the proper step -- probably removing the ten screws of the lens mount would be first.
Seems like a fishing trip to me, with no assured end in sight.I learned as a child that there is always an assured end in sight --- with sufficient persistence in removing screws, any device can be reduced to a large pile of inscrutable small parts.
Good luck with the grinding process. Won't the pigment grinding sheet be intolerably slow? That sounds like something that would have too fine a grit for much but a final finishing step; something more like 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper held down on a flat surface (with a sprinkling of water to keep the dust/grit cloud from drifting into the lens) might save you a few hours of work.
Apr 11, 2012 at 06:24 PM
p.2 #15Leica help please
shaunmlavery wrote:
Is this thread about Leica M or Leica R?
Canon body mirror problems occur when shrouds/housings protrude greater than 1.25mm above the adapter bayonet surface. Additionally, it's the top half that interferes with the mirror. If the shroud can't be removed or unscrewed, dremeling the rubber like material may be less stressful than racking the lens back and forth on sandpaper.
Edited on Apr 12, 2012 at 08:27 AM · View previous versions
Is this thread about Leica M or Leica R?
Canon body mirror problems occur when shrouds/housings protrude greater than 1.25mm above the adapter bayonet surface. Additionally, it's the top half that interferes with the mirror. If the shroud can't be removed or unscrewed, dremeling the rubber like material may be less stressful than racking the lens back and forth on sandpaper.
Edited on Apr 12, 2012 at 08:27 AM · View previous versions
Apr 11, 2012 at 10:40 PM
p.2 #16Leica help please
Don't some of the Ricoh digital cameras take Leica lenses. The sensor may be small though.
The NEX cameras definitely do and have an aps-c sized sensor. ( 1.5x crop ) for a lot less money than an M8 or 8.2.
The NEX cameras definitely do and have an aps-c sized sensor. ( 1.5x crop ) for a lot less money than an M8 or 8.2.
Apr 12, 2012 at 06:09 AM
p.2 #17Leica help please
As a follow up and based on some additonal research I have decided to pursue a M9 and avoid the M8. There are a number of M9's for sale on the buy/sell here on FM and I'm going to be patient and wait to see what the May 10th Leica announcement is and see if that has any impact on used prices. Then sometime in May I'll make a purchase of a M9 and most likely a 35 F2 and a 50mm lens for use on the M9. Thank you for all of your input.
Jack
Jack
Apr 12, 2012 at 06:21 AM
p.2 #19Leica help please
shaunmlavery wrote:
Is this thread about Leica M or Leica R?
Yes, I see there was a direction change in this thread. It started M and page 2 changed to R, then back to M.
Is this thread about Leica M or Leica R?
Yes, I see there was a direction change in this thread. It started M and page 2 changed to R, then back to M.
Apr 12, 2012 at 08:29 AM
p.2 #20Leica help please
Follow-up to the problem:
Well, Carsten and Michael were right that it might practically take a jackhammer to sort this out!
I did end up spending a few hours working on this, slowly removing metal. I started with the glass plate and 220 grip sandpaper, with 400 as finishing. That got me clear for the 1D-series bodies, but the 5D2 remained resistive. I did bring out a file and started working away, but that took off too little metal for the mirror to clear. Finally, I broke out the Dremel tool and started grinding away carefully, then filing to a rough flatness, then finally to the hand grinding with sand paper. Black and Red permanent markers were used to check for marks on the from mirror touching. Back and forth, over and over.
But the final results, if not glamorous, are highly functional and not distracting.
It was with a sense of accomplishment and job well done that I went out at Dark O'clock (after 7:00 PM) last night to shoot my first test shots with the 5D2 using ISO 800 and wide open lens.
First shot, without adapter in place. Left side show only slight removal of metal (orignal ridges still visible), while right side has completely removed the edge of the ring/baffle.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IY0S5448.jpg
From the side, you can see the slope and removed metal -- far more than the few thousanths of an inch I'd estimated!
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IY0S5452.jpg
The size of the Leica zoom is a good match for the Canon bodies.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IY0S5459.jpg
Test shots
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7325.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7305.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7307.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7331.jpg
I'll get some more test shots in daylight today and post some in the Leica R thread.
Thanks for the help!
Well, Carsten and Michael were right that it might practically take a jackhammer to sort this out!
I did end up spending a few hours working on this, slowly removing metal. I started with the glass plate and 220 grip sandpaper, with 400 as finishing. That got me clear for the 1D-series bodies, but the 5D2 remained resistive. I did bring out a file and started working away, but that took off too little metal for the mirror to clear. Finally, I broke out the Dremel tool and started grinding away carefully, then filing to a rough flatness, then finally to the hand grinding with sand paper. Black and Red permanent markers were used to check for marks on the from mirror touching. Back and forth, over and over.
But the final results, if not glamorous, are highly functional and not distracting.
It was with a sense of accomplishment and job well done that I went out at Dark O'clock (after 7:00 PM) last night to shoot my first test shots with the 5D2 using ISO 800 and wide open lens.
First shot, without adapter in place. Left side show only slight removal of metal (orignal ridges still visible), while right side has completely removed the edge of the ring/baffle.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IY0S5448.jpg
From the side, you can see the slope and removed metal -- far more than the few thousanths of an inch I'd estimated!
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IY0S5452.jpg
The size of the Leica zoom is a good match for the Canon bodies.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IY0S5459.jpg
Test shots
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7325.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7305.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7307.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/gunzorro/IMG_7331.jpg
I'll get some more test shots in daylight today and post some in the Leica R thread.
Thanks for the help!
Apr 12, 2012 at 08:41 AM