p.3 #1 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Pondria,
Yes, it has a little thin piece of brass for seaming. The split screen of the Contax FU-4 is nice, but I like the brighter screen of the D. Rebel. Maybe Canon make one in the future
p.3 #2 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
The stock Canon screen sacrifices contrast for brightness. The FU-4 isn't as bright but has much more snap, making manual focusing easier. You can't really have it both ways...increasing contrast makes for a coarser, dimmer screen. But the FU-4 in a Contax camera gives you a brighter view than in the 10D. Better pentaprism, larger image, better viewing system all around.
As for why Canon doesn't admit that the 10D & 300D screens can in fact be switched out easily...marketing, I'm sure. These cameras aren't "professional," and thus people who buy them are by definition not interested in various professional features. If they are in fact interested...too bad, they can buy a 1D or 1Ds instead.
p.3 #3 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
daverk wrote:
The stock Canon screen sacrifices contrast for brightness. The FU-4 isn't as bright but has much more snap, making manual focusing easier.
I can confirm that. Brighter or darker, the focus transition is much clearer with my old Minolta screen. I can imagine that Contax is even more snappier.
As for why Canon doesn't admit that the 10D & 300D screens can in fact be switched out easily...marketing, I'm sure. These cameras aren't "professional," and thus people who buy them are by definition not interested in various professional features. If they are in fact interested...too bad, they can buy a 1D or 1Ds instead.
-Dave-
There is one mystery here. Both D30 and D-Rebel has brass seam frames to fine adjust the height. It would be MUCH MUCH more expensive to manufacture this way than just to have the correct thickness/height plastic plate in the biginning. I don't get it.
p.3 #4 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Hi there,
I did it, too!
After I checked the screens of my old Nikon F3( too thick) I took the screen out of a old defect Nikon F301 (I think its the 3003 in the US).
After cutting and sanding it fits perfectly (without the brass frame) and focusing is way better, especially with wide angle lenses.
p.3 #5 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Achim,
Glad that it works for you. How do you compare the brightness between the Nikon screen (not the center portion) and the one from your 10D? If the Nikon screen is bright, I may consider it in the future.
p.3 #7 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
As Dave mentioned, what may be more important is Contrast rather than Brightness. The Matt screen looks coarse but gives "snap" or "lock" when the subject is in focus.
p.3 #8 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
I just finished replacing the screen in my 10D with the Contax FU-3 screen. Used a razor blade to scour the edge and broke it in a small vise. Whole process took about an hour. Removed the shim and it focuses perfectly.
The stressful part is wondering if you got the measurements correct so that the split screen area falls directly in the center of the frame. Cutting the screen was easy.
p.3 #11 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
boomanbb wrote:
Thanks! It was truely amazing how easy it was to focus my 100mm and 135mm lens. Fast too. I may end up making one for my friend who has a 300D.
Ben
It is still mystery to me why Canon do not offer stock replacement screens. My *theory* is that probably the AF factory tolerance for the non-pro bodies are loose. It may show up with the split screens.
