p.2 #2 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
" Strangely enough, most people that own camera's that come with splitscreens change them to full matte screens for macro and long lenses..........
The reason for this is that the splitscreen will not work at any aperture smaller than 5.6 or 8 depending on the angle of the wedges, and those apertures are easily reached using extension tubes or a TC."
That's very true. I have an Nikon FM3A--great camera--and replaced the stock K3 (spilt microprism) with a plain matte. I find it faster and easier to focus than the spilt microprism, plus it doesn't black out with slower lenses (the microprism grays at F3.5 and blacks out at F5.6). Of course, the viewfinder of the FM3A is huge and very contrasty compared to a 10D or 300D.
p.2 #3 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Quite true, but in the end it is a matter of what you prefer. In any case, I have been working on full matte with grid screens for most of my photographic life and I find that they are the easiest to focus and compose with. However what works for me may not work for somebody else. That is why I can't understand Canon not offering interchangeble screens. Is miss my grid!!
p.2 #4 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Camera makers offer multiple interchangeable focusing screen types for their high-end cameras. They do so just for one reason - people want different types for whatever needs that they have
p.2 #6 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
I wonder if Beattie could do one up? I bet if you sent them one, they just might. It is a thought I am going to give a little contemplation to, maybe give them a shout...or even just convert my 10D myself...
p.2 #8 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
I presume your first question is about the screen in a 10 D or 300 D. I have replaced the screen and the seven focus points light up correctly. Be very careful about the sensitivity of the soft plastic screen and the mirror.
p.2 #9 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Yes, that's what I meant.
then it should be possible to engineer one that does both. (has the light-channels or whatever that allow the focus points to lightup and has some type of focus aid)
I have an old konica that isn't really split, but the center is all gritty until its in focus. much less obtrusive than those large split screens seem to be. (never used that type actually)
p.2 #10 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
The split-image aid works best with wider lenses while the "gritty center" (typically known as a microprism spot) is more effective with longer glass. Many screens compromise and give you both, the split-image in the center surrounded by a microprism collar. The Contax FU-3 (diagonal split) and FU-4 (horizontal split) are as good as any split/microprism screens I've ever used.
I haven't tried my spare FU-4 in my 10D yet but will probably do so within the next couple weeks.
p.2 #11 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
daverk wrote:
The split-image aid works best with wider lenses while the "gritty center" (typically known as a microprism spot) is more effective with longer glass. Many screens compromise and give you both, the split-image in the center surrounded by a microprism collar. The Contax FU-3 (diagonal split) and FU-4 (horizontal split) are as good as any split/microprism screens I've ever used.
I haven't tried my spare FU-4 in my 10D yet but will probably do so within the next couple weeks.
-Dave-
The old Minolta screen that I used is the type that has both microprism and the split. I wonder if it is possible to have 45 points splits
p.2 #13 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Brian,
Contax FU-4 screen was reported to be successful. I cancelled the order as it was not in stock at adorama.
The thickness of the screen doesn't seem to matter, BECAUSE the matt ground surface, where the image is projected, is at the Pentaprism side. So the focusing distance is invariant on the thickness of the screen.
BUT tricky part is to fine-tune the hight of the screen.
- I had to raised the Minotal Screen a tiny bit ( by lowering the edges ).
- The original Canon screen has two thin brass frames to lower the screen.
- The Contax FU-4 screen is reportedly fine without any adjustment.
p.2 #14 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
brian_chemist wrote:
then it should be possible to engineer one that does both. (has the light-channels or whatever that allow the focus points to lightup and has some type of focus aid)
You still can hear the beep. Plus the center circle of the FU-4 screen is much brighter than that of 10D, your eye is good enough on confirming the focus too.
p.2 #15 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
I was wondering, is this going to be an all or nothing by changing the screen? What I mean, does this change anything with the AF besides not having the lights light up? Do all of the registar points still work, they just don't light up? Or will this throw off the AF altogther. I don't like the manual focus of the current stock Canon screen, but I would hate to loose the ability to use the AF accuratley after changing it to something else. Not sure if anyone has switched over that has had time to compare what is gained versers what is lost. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Ron
p.2 #16 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Ron,
AF still works. The screen is just a dummy projection. Actual AF sensors are at the bottom of the camera, behind the mirror. The Main mirror is partially transparent and there is another small mirror that reflects the image to the bottom. When the main mirror flips up, the small mirror folds together.
The exposure information that you see at the bottom of the view finder is also a projected image. They put together a lot of mirrors and prisms inside the body
p.2 #17 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Good. Thanks for the info. I wish Canon would see the light here and just build us different types of screens like they do for some of their other cameras. They already have the technology to do so and they DO seem to be interchangeable in spite of what Canon says. It seems to me if we are able to manufacture something that will work, that Canon COULD build one better and ( I was going to say cheaper, but Canon would probably charge mega-bucks for it). Have you gotton yours installed Yet? Just wondering how hard it is to do, and how good you think it works.
p.2 #19 · Instruction: Split-screen for 10D, 300D etc
Well, I made a screen for the D. Rebel with a Contax FU4 screen yesterday. Here are some of my observation:
. The Contax screen is a lot thicker than the one from the Rebel
. The center is bright, but the rest of the screen is a lot darker than the one from the Rebel. I like brighter screen.
. The manual focus works great, but the AF is off even for short distance. As Pondria mentioned, the edges need to be modified
. After weighted the + and -, I decided to put back the original screen
. It took a long time to clean the matte screen. I used a blower and some lens cleaning solution
