p.2 #1 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
Fred Miranda wrote:
When using Photomatix or simlar HDR software, the closer the exposure stops the better the blending. When doing it manually with an opacity brush, you have more control of blending process and the areas affected. It yields a more natural result because you can slowly build-up needed areas instead of changing the entire image tonality.
If you get one exposure without any "blinkies" and then another with your shadow detail (Or maybe 2 more depending on the scene contrast), you should have all the data for a good manual blending.
right but if your image contains a complex series of light and dark areas that represent fine and wispy details it's going to be extremely difficult to manually paint those areas in with a brush . If you're just merging a skyline into foreground shadows and can use a variation of gradient along with some dodging/burning (gradually building up your mask with a low opacity brush) I can see the advantages but I don't see how it applies universally.
p.2 #2 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
jzucker,
The brush is only use to tweak the final result. There are many ways to create masks when blending two images. The more semi-automated way is to use "Color Range". For example, you could use color range to select the brightest areas on your image and create a mask. Then you could "blur" the mask or use a high "feather" setting to blend tonality. That would do 90% of the work. the rest 10% is up to you and the brush tool.
If you prefer a more automated results, I would recommend tonal fusion instead of HDR. (Photomatix offers tonal fusion as well)
Fred
p.2 #3 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
I agree that tonal fusion gives much more natural results. But you can also use tonal fusion, HDR and original exposures and blend all these together manually. Depending on which method gives the best result for each part of an image. Skies always look best from 1 original exposure.
p.2 #5 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
ViscaB wrote:
If you only do night photography like I do you can use a timer remote. I set the mode to bulb and after that I manually time the shorter exposures. For really bright subjects in the photo a short click of the shutter release on the remote to recored the highlights etc. I generally end up with 6 different exposures.
I blend the exposures manually normally but automated blending or HDR creation should work as well.
I have not used it before to verify, but think you guys can give it some research if it fits your needs. Of course, the above is just a reference site with the technical infor. There are other places selling it cheaper.
p.2 #7 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
jzucker wrote:
makes sense. Thanks for the explanation Fred
One of the problems with HDR is that it tweaks the tones of the image in a weird way. The mid tones end up getting "crunchy" and it's difficult to maintain contrast in a natural way. There are some scenes that will benefit from HDR... shooting the interior of a home during the day and keeping detail in the windows, taking a photo at night with bright lights shining on buildings --- but for landscape photography, you are better off blending the photos manually. All you really need are two photos -- one exposed for the sky, the other exposed for the foreground.
I see a lot of people using HDR these days because they think it's the only option for taking landscape photos. They assume that this is the technique that everyone else is using, and that with just a few clicks of the mouse, they have a final photo. It's not quite that easy. You'll end up introducing all sorts of weird artifacts to your images.
HDR is not a one-size-fits-all solution. Sure, there are some scenes that can benefit from it, but using HDR for every high contrast scene is like using a hammer to put screws into a wall. Sure, it'll do the job, but there are much better solutions.
This is where manual blending, and graduated ND filters come into play.
p.2 #9 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
jzucker wrote:
Is there any way to get (-4, -2, 0, +2, +4) without touching the camera and if not, what is the best strategy for achieving 5 exposures with minimum of vibration?
1. [if you can] Get a really good tripod like a Gitzo 3 section carbon fiber with no center column and the biggest Really Right Stuff ballhead.
1b. If you can't, then get the best 3 section tripod you can. Every extra section in the legs is an extra wobble point of resonance.
1b2. Get one with no center column for the same reason: to reduce the number of wobbly bits.
2. Set the camera for mirror lockup and to Manual exposure at the either the lowest or highest shutter speed of the set.
3. Shoot the first exposure.
4. (A) Move the shutter speed dial the requisite number of clicks (usually six). ( B) Click the shutter once to raise the mirror. (C) Wait at least one second. Double that if the tripod has four sections. Double again if five sections. Double again for a center column. Double again if it is not a really good quality one like Gitzos or the top-of-the-line Manfrottos. (D) Shoot the shot.
5. Repeat step 4 until the whole bracket is completed.
p.2 #10 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
I have a really good tripod (Induro CT13) with no center column with an acratech ultimate ballhead.
I don't want to move the shutter dial 6 times. That introduces too much movement IMO. Fred's workflow makes the best sense. One mode dial shift, 6 exposures.
p.2 #16 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
jzucker wrote:
some of the movement may be the aractech. I don't think they are as sturdy as a traditional ballhead. Just something else to spend money on I guess.
I had the Acratech for years! I stilll use it when packing light.
Recently I got the RRS BH-55. Oh my! This ballhead will blow your mind. I highly recommend it.
Fred
p.2 #17 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
well, I just discovered the aractech wasn't screwed on tight to my platform so I put a few drops of loctite on it and screwed in the offset screw on the platform. Maybe that'll improve things.
p.2 #19 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
To me, promote control is too expensive considering that it doesn't have a display screen to do focusing on. dslrcontroller looks like a much better solution. But frankly, in the field, I'm not sure I want another external tethered device.
p.2 #20 · Best way to do bracketing for HDR on 5D MK II?
jzucker wrote:
how much has that been vetted and can you go back to standard if you find it doesn't work properly/reliably?
I don't know the specifics, but Magic Lantern piggy backs on to the current firmware via your memory card. Once you're done, you can just remove it from the memory card and you're done.
EDIT: It appears that this is true for the newest version of Magic Lantern which isn't available for the 5D2 yet. It's only available for the T1i, T2i, T3i, 50D, 60D and 7D.
