Daniel Moore, sorry, I think you are right and ther is something in your post that I do not understand, neither with the translation that google gives me, I´m stil learning english.
In simple terms, for translation, it is sometimes very important to be able to polarize a small area of a scene, even one taken with a very wide angle.
Regarding CPL's, I do a lot of waterfall and creek photography. If the sun is out I typically don't even shoot, as a cloudy, overcast day is much preferable for this kind of photography. I have found that the CPL is paramount in this kind of work for the same reasons that have been brought up, to knock the reflections off the water, rocks, leaves and to enrich the colors in the shot. The sky doesn't even come into play regarding the CPL for me, so even shooting UWA lenses, the CPL is a needed tool. I have been very sucsessful shooting a Nikon D300 with a Tokina 11-16 f2.8 and the CPL lives on this lens.
Regarding this Photodiox product, when I first saw this thread I was excited to think as I upgrade to FX that I could get the 14-24 lens, but hearing the issues that are present with this filter adaptor is keeping me from making my lens decision. I really want the 14-24, but may have to settle on the Nikon 17-35 f2.8 or 16-35 f4 instead. I wrote to Photodiox and asked them some questions but have not heard back yet.
Okay, an update. I was feeling that Fotodiox ignored my email, but they actually didn't. I got a reply from them this morning, so I'm pleased that they did afterall reply.
Here is the email;
"Sorry for the delayed response to your inquiry, I was out of country for a couple of week.
The filter thread for the super wide angle lens is 1mm pitch size for avoiding vignette. We could have made it 1.5mm or 2mm, it will be a lot easy to put the cap on and off by thread. This is kind of trade off between reality and practicality.
The CPL filter we are selling uses the same CPL film as Hoya, which has a standard 45 degree angle for optimal polarizing effect. It take a few time practice to put the huge size filter on the adapter. I has been easy for me to put it on and off since i was the first one to use the adapter along with all the filter in the field. We will introduce a snap-on lens cap in 2-3 month for the 145mm size, so it will be easy for people use the lens in the field at ease.
You are welcome to try the product, since you have 14 days to return the product with full refund. Any suggestions are welcome for future development of such products.
I bougtht one of these after reading of it's design issues and my thinking is that with a good quality easily replaceable lens cap it's both viable and relative to other options, affordable. I too have not yet tested the polarizer for optical quality but plan to in the next couple days. I did have the same trouble fitting it, it's a three handed job. My advice is to support the lens with the mount in one hand and push straight down on just the two tabs of the lock ring, don't try and push the ring itself, and it'll settle evenly enough to grab with turn or two. It took me several frustrating minutes to fumble with it to find this out. It's enough of a nuissance to make me rethink my storage of the lens with it permanently mounted, not a simple task itself, it's now the bulkiest contraption in my case. I think the Lee lock ring had a pair of opposing tabs that rest in the petal hood nooks to level it, that's what this lock ring is missing, with only two, it teeters and rocks while you try to get it to grab.
The lens cap, if even the minutest bit warped will be rendered useless. The threads are so fine and the diameter so large that it's very easy to cross-thread. Add a warp equal to the height of the thread pitch and you're in for a rough time. Leaving it exposed to sunlight is probably a bad idea for that reason.
You spin the hood to lock the unit onto the lens. It tightens opposite to the threads of the filters and cap. It's easy to loosen the whole device simply by turning the polarizer or attaching the cap. The threads are so fine I seriously worry about making things too tight so I recommend you remember to grip the hood rather than the lens to attach filters and always spin the polarizer in the filter tightening direction so as to prevent the turning action from unscrewing the hood itself.
Mine too had spotty anodization which in a large field of black metal shows readily, looking used when new.
So, would I buy it again. Well, I think so. Here's why. The very first thing I did after calming down from the installation : P, was to take a shot of my living room, knocking down the reflections of lamps in the windows.
That's all I ever wanted. It's going to help with landscapes but most of my interior work, if not nearly all of it, was shot at 24mm with that astonishingly well corrected (@24mm), amazingly beautiful quality lens.
So I guess I'm happy, just need that non-threaded lens cap asap.
If the polarizer turns out cross-eyed I'll be sure to report in. Autofocus didn't seem to have any issue with the polarizer.
Daniel, thank you for the report. I so want for this product to work, but I am still so skeptical about it because as a landscape photographer, the lens cap comes off and on so many times during a shoot.
Out of curiosity, how easy does the CPL turn when mounted to the adaptor?
Willem, I know that you started with the Lee SW-150 kit and recently sold it, obviously in favor of the Fotodiox. I'm curious, what do you like about the Fotodiox over the Lee kit and why?
Hello Garrick,
I was always intending on getting a 150 square Polafilter for the Lee kit, but never got around to it.
I don't use the grads anymore,I did only in film days.
When the Fotodiox came around for $250 incl Polafiter I couldn't resist.
I agree with Daniel,
I'm leaving the filter holder on permanently.
Too finicky to take it of and on.
Just need to make some space in my case.
Regards,
Willem.
