snowboarder wrote:
Am I the only one here who completely doesn't get why you are doing
those panos of such simple scenes?
I get a pano as a long wide image to show a wide scene, a great sunset, but a tree?
I guess whatever makes you happy
I'd say for shallow DOF. Given the size of a tree it's nearly impossible to get shallow DOF with the 135 format. At least that's what I'm strugling with.
I need to try that pano thing sometime but I'm not sure I'd be able to handle handheld multi-row panos without using huge amount of overlap.
snowboarder wrote:
Am I the only one here who completely doesn't get why you are doing
those panos of such simple scenes?
I get a pano as a long wide image to show a wide scene, a great sunset, but a tree?
I guess whatever makes you happy
As mentioned, partly for the DoF, but interestingly, being able to move in, and stop down a bit also gives a different look. My holy grail is a LF look with 135 format cameras
fefo, great shot!
Xtobolic, fun self-portrait. So, do you work out at all?
Snowboarder, I can't answer for CarstenW but I am enjoying them for the medium/large format effect. I know they are simply of trees at the moment but I have also been trying on other more interesting subjects. I guess there is an element of worry when it comes to fluffing up a dof panoramic by missing out a key image which makes up the panoramic (like a central image) or of wind or people walking through a shot that can mean you miss an important shot completely. But I have seen this type of shot done at weddings etc by a guy called Ryan Brenizer to great effect.
MichaD wrote:
I need to try that pano thing sometime but I'm not sure I'd be able to handle handheld multi-row panos without using huge amount of overlap.
Micha, huge overlap was actually one of my problems. When I cut it back to about 30% on each edge, it went much better. I try to visualize where the frame for the final images is, and then I start in a corner, and do very straight horizontal sets, moving up until the overlap with the previous row is about 30%, and going back the other direction, and so on, until done. The key is being able to judge the 30% on each edge, both horizontally and vertically, but only from one shot to the next, and then to be able to know when the row is done. Practice does it.
Neat portrait, that second one, Robert. Ivan is missing a chunk of arm though Have you tried cropping that part of one of the two images, to let the stitcher work without it?
oh crap! didn't notice that! Good job its not live on my site yet, back to photoshop... I find its quicker to manually fix stuff like that than to faff with more control points or cropping.
Is there an optical difference? It is possible that the later MM version has a rounder aperture, although not all the lenses had this. The MM version can also be used with Leitax mounts, in case that is interesting to you.
Hi Carsten...
Yeah, I'm looking (asking) if anyone knows if there is an optical difference between the two. Is one better than the other? Sharper? I'm looking at buying one or the other...trying to see which I should get. I have heard that the AEG might be sharper? I know that the MMJ version of the CY 35 1.4 is supposed to be sharper? Just curious as to which I should get??
Thank you,
Gregg
is this the Zakuto? Which one? 2.5 or 3 fold? Do you like to work with it, or is it rather a bother to put it on and take it off? Do you use it for macro only or for other uses as well. I was thinking of getting one for a while, but I am not sure wheter I will use it that much in the end. What is your opinion?
