john lewis wrote:
Have a cold beer while waiting for your lens.



Hey! That's only half a beer!!

[Reposted from the ZF/ZE/ZM thread]:

My latest experiment. This is an LF-look-alike image made with 4 rows of 10 vertical shots with the 200/2 VR on a D3. I used the 200/2 to get the narrowest depth of field possible at some distance (curtain of sharpness in front of blur). I have also, at great effort, manually resized and sharpened in Photoshop, so I am interested in comments about that too. Too bad that spring isn't more advanced, to make a more beautiful shot, but I can easily go back, and will.

Here's my attempt at achieving that 'look'. It's a composite of 20ish images.

I think it's more than just a very shallow dof, lead in lines and some focal shift while taking the images can help.

What do you guys think?

Very nice, although I miss her legs. I find that successful LF is often generously composed compared to 135 and crop cameras.

Some great Brenzier stuff in the link below. Lots of images in there, look towards the end.

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/897480/0?keyword=techniques#8452254

The guy's actually called Ryan Brenizer, not Brenzier. Nice shots in that thread though.

Recently posted in another thread but I kinda thought they fit here too so...


Canon FD 135mm f/2.5 on the GH1:

@ f/5.6




@ f/2.5

Total dumb newbie question, but how do you get a human subject to stay still while you fire off 20 exposures?

Curare darts of course!

Hahaha....

I think I'll just spare myself the headache and keep saving for an H4D-60 if I really want to do this kind of stuff.

I tried to get this gull to hover for about 20 frames ... just wouldn't go along with the program.
Oly 135/3.5

DrPete wrote:
Total dumb newbie question, but how do you get a human subject to stay still while you fire off 20 exposures?

I would also like to have an answer to that question.

So far I've used my girlfriend as test subject and just asked here to keep still. Started to take a photo of her face then the rest of her and finally the surroundings. Turned out ok.

Next question: where can I find som cheap curare darts

I've done this a few times. If the human subject can be covered by a couple of frames (rather than, say, 20) it has not been a problem for me. I find the difficulty to be parallax when shooting from close to the subject. Shooting from far away makes it much easier.

Cool. I gotta find the time (and patience) to try this.

RustyBug wrote:
I tried to get this gull to hover for about 20 frames ... just wouldn't go along with the program.
Oly 135/3.5

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2741/4103759471_38c7dbe252_b.jpg


Yeah! Aren't gulls just the dumbest?!?!

Dang gulls!

I'm guessing the expen$ive Gigpan Epic Pro pano "robot" could be used for this also.
I really want one of these.

Talk to denoir first

Problems? That would be an expensive problem if they didn't work well.
I only know of their existence, I haven't read up on them.

carstenw wrote:
Talk to denoir first
buggz2k wrote:
I'm guessing the expen$ive Gigpan Epic Pro pano "robot" could be used for this also.
I really want one of these.

buggz2k wrote:
Problems? That would be an expensive problem if they didn't work well.
I only know of their existence, I haven't read up on them.


http://vimeo.com/20405763

Look on the previous page of this thread for more, but in a nutshell the disadvantage of it is that it's big and heavy and thus not very practical to carry around.

That looks cool, makes me want one even more now.
*8^)
Though, not sure my laptop is up to processing such a file of that magnitude...