Light spread is very even in a medium Chimera.

E-Vener wrote:
Biggest non PLM I own is the big Chimera but regardless of the brand of light I'm using with that large of softbox (54x72 inch) I use Chimera C-stand grip head adapter to let the speedring support the weight of the head and the mass of the softbox.

When you get the chance, please post a picture of this. I think I know what you mean but can't picture how a grip head adapter helps...photoflex and aurora speedrings have a spigot screw thread so you can mount a softbox by the speedring onto the lightstand and then the strobe head just hooks into the speedring.
Thanks for the El-Octa picture Bacilonur...I forgot it was mounted that way but it was the biggest/heaviest modifier I could think of

p.s., couldn't find Ellis' facebook page...there's an Ellis Vener Photography page but it hasn't been updated in ages. I was just joking about the unboxing video...

E-Vener wrote:
Where sheer power used to be the name of the game, the Einstein changes the game to one of finesse, ...
Isn't this a little over the top? Myself and many others have been working at low watt seconds/joules for a long time. I seldom use 600 ws, mostly I'm under 100 ws, but I like crisp light, not mush so I use the Zoom, Magnum, 20" Speedotron the silver PLMs and other efficient modifiers.

If you can't be bothered to learn how to use and when it suits your purpose for a specific look, break the rules of lighting, the Einstein isn't a miracle tool. You still need to put in the sweat equity

Plus One

It's nice to see that the Einstein has stopped being vaporware and has become real. Hopefully I'll get mine sooner than later.

then add Cyber Commander, doing "Open Studio" on CC will find all the lights and their settings and pick up all control from the CC.

Ah. I couldn't figure out what "Open Studio" was really doing...working with the legacy lights, of course. Now I see.

Just received my Cyber commander the other day and I have to say that I cannot believe Paul can offer something like this for $179.00. It is fantastic. Currently have been using bees for a couple of years and they have been great. Really wanted another couple of lights and this has put me over the edge. Just ordered two Einsteins and looking forward to them eventually arriving.

Paul, I know you have alot going on and I don't expect to see them anytime soon, but do you have any ideas when orders placed now will be shipped. Obviously not looking for a specific date, but are we talking weeks or months?

It's on my friends page.

A lot of photographers still labor under the assumption that more is more, hence my comment but point takes C D.

E-Vener wrote:
A lot of photographers still labor under the assumption that more is more, hence my comment but point takes C D.

Some times more IS MORE. Last night (shooting a car at night) I was popping flashes (approx 300Ws Metz 60's) up to 4 times per exposure because they just weren't powerfull enough for the situation (heavilly gelled).

JJ

Boosting your ISO from 100 to 400 on any modern camera ( >= D700/5D2) is a whole lot cheaper and easier than quadrupling your flash power, with minimal consequences.

bacilonur wrote:
Boosting your ISO from 100 to 400 on any modern camera ( >= D700/5D2) is a whole lot cheaper and easier than quadrupling your flash power, with minimal consequences.

I agree which is why I think the Einstein offers the perfect sweet spot in power. However you still need more flash power when overpowering the sun and high ISO does not help there. The real solution is to improve flash sync at the camera.

Now Paul, please come out with a tiny battery that offers 100 full power pops, maybe less, whatever it takes for a small battery, I will keep spares in the car. And while your at it make a small Einstein!

bacilonur wrote:
Boosting your ISO from 100 to 400 on any modern camera ( >= D700/5D2) is a whole lot cheaper and easier than quadrupling your flash power, with minimal consequences.

True except that doesn't help to overpower sun light where sheer power trumps all else (even relatively high sync speed). Even the 5ds2 has a lower sync speed than the 1dsmk2 so you still need slightly more power to compensate in full sun.

My 1dsmk2 doesn't play nicely at ISO's above 100 so cranking up the ISO is never an option I consider. I really need to get a 5dmk2 AND decent strobes.

JJ

I was referring to your problem of having to fire 4 pops to get enough light. Multiple 300-600ws heads or packs will almost always outperform (and offer better redundancy than) a single high powered head. Compare, for example, an Acute2 2400 to a 1200 and you'll see that the extra cash, size, and weight will actually only increase your light output by around 25-30% when outdoors. Shooting smart and using efficient reflectors is a much better strategy than throwing more money and wattseconds at the problem.

pcunite wrote:
bacilonur wrote:
Boosting your ISO from 100 to 400 on any modern camera ( >= D700/5D2) is a whole lot cheaper and easier than quadrupling your flash power, with minimal consequences.

I agree which is why I think the Einstein offers the perfect sweet spot in power. However you still need more flash power when overpowering the sun and high ISO does not help there. The real solution is to improve flash sync at the camera.

Now Paul, please come out with a tiny battery that offers 100 full power pops, maybe less, whatever it takes for a small battery, I will keep spares in the car. And while your at it make a small Einstein!

You can overpower any sun with 640WS Einstein/AB/WL and PLM. F22 to f32+ at 10' ISO 100.

bacilonur wrote:
I was referring to your problem of having to fire 4 pops to get enough light. Multiple 300-600ws heads or packs will almost always outperform (and offer better redundancy than) a single high powered head. Compare, for example, an Acute2 2400 to a 1200 and you'll see that the extra cash, size, and weight will actually only increase your light output by around 25-30% when outdoors. Shooting smart and using efficient reflectors is a much better strategy than throwing more money and wattseconds at the problem.


Make that 100% . . . 1 f stop. Also, I doubt a Metz flash has anywhere near 300WS - any specs? I suspect 50-80WS max, but could be wrong - no specs that I can find.

Hell, I could overpower the sun with an AB800 and double-diffused softbox. +10000 on the small batteries.

Paul Buff wrote:
Make that 100% . . . 1 f stop.

Paul, are you talking about my comparison between an Acute2 2400 and 1200? The 2400 is listed at 1/320 (full power, t.5), so when you're outdoors at 1/250, you're only gonna capture 60 or 70% of its power.

Paul Buff wrote:
.... Also, I doubt a Metz flash has anywhere near 300WS - any specs? I suspect 50-80WS max, but could be wrong - no specs that I can find.

Based purely on a direct comparison with a Broncolor 600Ws strobe (with reflector). The Metz was one stop under. It's 'ball park' enough. I have no idea what it's power really is.

JJ

E-Vener wrote:
6) The entire Einstein looks professional enough that I can't see anyone questioning your professional qualifications based on the looks of your euipment.


You should write copy for PCB & Co. That line will sell 1,000's.

bacilonur wrote:
Paul Buff wrote:
Make that 100% . . . 1 f stop.

Paul, are you talking about my comparison between an Acute2 2400 and 1200? The 2400 is listed at 1/320 (full power, t.5), so when you're outdoors at 1/250, you're only gonna capture 60 or 70% of its power.

?? Have you got that the right way round??

If the 2400 fires 1/1 within 1/320s and you're shooting at 1/250s then the whole flash will happen within the 1/250s time frame with the shutter fully open. 1/320s is a shorter duration than 1/250s. How do you reckon on only getting 60-70% ?

Sigh. http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/1888