I'm going to buy some RadioPoppers to get better wireless, but I'm unsure of the TTL capabilities of the SB-80 and SB-28. If using these flashes as slaves, how would I set their power levels in the camera's CLS settings: TTL or manual? And is the answer differently for the -28 and -80, or the same?

Rodolfo Paiz wrote:
I'm going to buy some RadioPoppers to get better wireless, but I'm unsure of the TTL capabilities of the SB-80 and SB-28. If using these flashes as slaves, how would I set their power levels in the camera's CLS settings: TTL or manual? And is the answer differently for the -28 and -80, or the same?

You don't use the camera's CLS settings when using RPs. Just set the flash in TTL mode, and camera in manual, and trigger from the hot shoe. Both the SB-80 and SB-28 are TTL flashes, so will work with RP JrX Studio receivers, and allow you to set power levels remotely, but to set levels remotely, you have to have a hardware piece that no one manufactures yet. Lots of people are building their own to great success (including myself). See this thread for details.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157622317133654/

Good luck.

Erik, thanks for the response.

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying about not using CLS with RP's. Are you talking about just these flash units, or in general? Also, when you mention "trigger from the hot shoe", I take you mean "the flash is triggered by the transmitter on the hot shoe when you take the picture"?

RP's specifically mentiones that CLS is fully supported, so I don't understand why you'd have to set the camera to manual and not use CLS, regardless of whether a PX or JrX transmitter is used.

Rodolfo Paiz wrote:
Erik, thanks for the response.

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying about not using CLS with RP's. Are you talking about just these flash units, or in general? Also, when you mention "trigger from the hot shoe", I take you mean "the flash is triggered by the transmitter on the hot shoe when you take the picture"?

RP's specifically mentiones that CLS is fully supported, so I don't understand why you'd have to set the camera to manual and not use CLS, regardless of whether a PX or JrX transmitter is used.



Ahh, geesh. Sorry, I assumed you were talking about the RP JrX system. I guess you're talking about the RP PX system, right?

The SB-80DX and SB-28 are NOT CLS flashes, and won't work with the PX system the way a SB-600 or SB-800 will (actually, I don't think they'll work at all).

If you want iTTL operation, you'll need to buy a CLS compatible flash (600,800,900). If you want to set flash levels manually and/or use older flashes such as the 24,26,28,80 etc, you should buy the JrX system (much cheaper anyway).

Hope this helps, sorry for the confusion.

Because I'll eventually upgrade to better slaves, my thought was to buy the PX transmitter. On the receiving side, I don't (yet) have any TTL slaves or studio lights, so I was thinking about the JrX as you've suggested.

It seems that the best way to get some flexibility for future needs without springing for the PX receivers is to buy the JrX Studio units. Then I can use them with my existing flashes, and also with other lighting later on. Does that make sense as a strategy?

And, now that I've understood your points (thanks, BTW), how does the JrX trigger the SB-28 and -80? And how is it different before and after you make your own trigger cable as described in that Flickr thread?

Rodolfo Paiz wrote:
It seems that the best way to get some flexibility for future needs without springing for the PX receivers is to buy the JrX Studio units. Then I can use them with my existing flashes, and also with other lighting later on. Does that make sense as a strategy?


It sounds fine as long as you don't plan to need TTL with your remote flashes. Personally, I find setting flash levels manually more useful, but can see situations where TTL would be really nice (wedding receptions, or any situations with remote flash where the distance from flash to subject is variable from minute to minute).


And, now that I've understood your points (thanks, BTW), how does the JrX trigger the SB-28 and -80? And how is it different before and after you make your own trigger cable as described in that Flickr thread?

Out of the box, the only way to trigger any hotshoe flash is with an adaptor that's not included. You need something like this:
http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0126/index.shtml

The problem is, all the adaptors like the one above use mono plugs that only have two hot shoe contacts, one for ground, and one for trigger. The remote power settings require a third contact/pin to connect to the quench pin of the hotshoe, and nobody makes a product like this. (That's what the upcoming RPCube will do, but as of now, it's vaporware).

The homebuilt solution does one of two things that will both work- adapt a stereo plug to a Nikon TTL female hot shoe, or splice a stereo plug into the 3 pin connector so that it can plug into the side of an SB-800, or most of the earlier SB flashes. The SB-600 does not have this plug, and must use the hotshoe solution. The SB-900 does not use an analog quench pin at all, and its power level cannot be set remotely with the JrX system.

Hope this helps.