katzeye yay or nay.
/forum/topic/829359/0

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eplastiq
Registered: Aug 09, 2008
Total Posts: 126
Country: Spain

Hi.

Probably this topic has been discused for ages, but it seems i can't find decent info about it (feel free to post links about it )

I have a CZ 50mm ZE and i find the confirmation focus is not really accurate. I never used manual focus lenses and i think i could use the vantages a specialized focusing screen. also i'm thinking in adding a 85mm (probably samyang) to my collection, so, no focus confirmation thing.

i've been making a short research and i found the price may vary a lot comparing the canon standard EF-S and the katzeye.

i think i understood (correct me if i'm wrong) the canon one is just a matte screen and the katzeye has the split and the microcollar which should help more than the canon.

the main question is if it is worth spending the money in the katzeye or the canon one should be more than enough.

also i would like to know if the optibrite system is also worth the extra money because now the screens has the "plus" thing to make them brighter and i don't plan getting slow lenses.

thanks.

marc.



ulrikft2
Registered: Oct 21, 2009
Total Posts: 1738
Country: Norway

I got a focusingscreen.com screen at the moment, but I would like a even more wide-open-shooting preferential one.



cogitech
Registered: Apr 20, 2005
Total Posts: 10909
Country: Canada

Nearly everyone assumes a split-screen with microprism collar is going to be better or more helpful than a precision matte screen. In the end, they are not as accurate and are much more distracting. One of the many benefits of manually focusing is getting your attention out in front of the camera, on your subject. The central focusing aids will have you fixated in your viewfinder just like the AF systems do.

I highly recommend spending a few weeks with the Ef-S. All of these screens will take some practice. If you then still think you want/need a split-screen w/prism collar, you can easily sell the Ee-S at a small loss.



Robert Snow
Registered: Jan 24, 2004
Total Posts: 421
Country: United States

I would put a "PS" below that.

The Katzeye is an excellent product. She did one for me that was great, did it when she said she would, and I have never heard a complaint by anyone about her work in the years I have hung out on various forums.

The down side perhaps is the price, at least for me.

bob snow



Valorin
Registered: Jul 07, 2005
Total Posts: 468
Country: Canada

I mostly agree with what cogitech said. In a lot of ways a split screen seems like a really good idea, but using it does negate one of the advantages of using manual focus (as does using camera focus indicators, which are actually even worse): seeing the whole image and being freed from fixed distractions in your view. Trying to get manual focus down with a simple matte screen and not using autofocus indicators is your best start, supplemented with an accessory matte screen (Ef-S in your case) if necessary. I think split/microprism screens are really only going to be useful if that still doesn't work, and the accuracy isn't going to be that great either.



bluetsunami
Registered: Sep 03, 2008
Total Posts: 937
Country: United States

Are straight up matte screens for the Rebel series made? I need to upgrade to the 5D Classic eventually but I'm still rocking my Rebel XT. I was eyeballing the Katz Eye but I also don't really appreciate the viewfinder being cluttered by the split prism and ring.



Ray Simpson
Registered: Nov 15, 2006
Total Posts: 173
Country: United States

I've had a Katzeye on my 20D and love it. I've got the EF-S screen on my 5D. FWIW I feel like I get more accurate focusing with the katzeye and the smaller, darker 20D screen. I wish they made one for the 5D.

I don't find the center split screen a problem. I focus on what I want in focus and move the center of the picture back to where I want it. Did it all the time in the 70's and 80's with my Pentax.



Steve Spencer
Registered: Nov 08, 2006
Total Posts: 6062
Country: Canada

I have the EF-S screen on my 50D and with some practice I have had no trouble using it. I also finding it really freeing to use any part of the focus screen I want when composing. I would start there as it is a cheap and for me a very good option. I also have basically had no problems with the viewfinder being darker even with slower lenses.



eplastiq
Registered: Aug 09, 2008
Total Posts: 126
Country: Spain

Thanks everyone for the answers.

I had more or less clear that i wanted the katzeye but now, the freedom the EF-S gives you because you're not looking at any special point in the viewfinder has me intrigued and interested.

so i guess i'll do some more research to decide because is not something i need right now.



norrad
Registered: Mar 24, 2008
Total Posts: 429
Country: United States

Hello,

I have both screens, 2X over. My opinion is that it mostly depends on your camera.

I first picked up an ef-s screen for my 40D. Cogitech mentioned all the pluses of the precision matte screen. However, my manual focusing didn't seem to improve much initially. I was still curious about the katzeye also.

Then I picked up a used katzeye, with optibrite and grid lines for a rebel xt 350D here on FM for only $50. This was a terrific deal IMO as new this would have been $200. This screen utterly transformed my 350D. It made a huge difference right off the bat. When I sold the camera I removed the screen and put it my father's 400D. The alignment in 350D was spot on, removing the stock screen and installing the katzeye keeping the stock shim. On the 400D it was a little more work. With the stock shim things weren't working, images in-focus in the VF were blurry once taken, and if you used AF the image appeared out-of-focus in the VF but was sharp in the file. So I removed the katzeye, removed the stock shim, and then reinstalled the katzeye. Now things lined up very well and my father decided to keep and use the katzeye screen.

In the next few months I've looked for a katzeye screen for my 20D and finally found one here on FM for less than $50 with optibrite. The installation in the 20D kept the stock shim and aligned very well.

I also have a 5D. I probably would have looked for a katzeye screen for it but honestly didn't want to pay $150 or more and so went with the Canon Ee-S. I've been extremely pleased with the Ee-S in the 5D. Also, the installation of the Canon screens into the cameras they are meant for is straightforward, direct and takes all of 2 minutes.

I've haven't had any alignment issues with the Canon screens I've tried. One of the Katzeye screens did require some testing and work (had to remove the stock shim) in order to get it aligned. I can see how in some cases a different sized shim than stock might be needed and this would require a lot of trial and error and access to different sized shims.

After a while of using and practicing with the 40D and Ef-S screen my results have improved and I like it enough to not look for a katzeye screen. My feeling is that the brighter VF in the 5D makes using the precision matte screen a bit easier than in the 40 / 50D series.

The katzeye screens I have tried were both on cameras that Canon doesn't offer a precision screen for, the 350/400D and the 20D. The screens were both optibrite treated and I have been quite happy with both of them, but it takes more time and skill to install them than the Canon screens in the other cameras. The optibrite screens seem, to me, to stay brighter when used with f4 and f5.6 lenses than the Canon S screens do.

I know I've written a bit here and I hope it isn't confusing.

Basically I feel it boils down to this. Both screens are better performers than the stock screen for MF, unquestionably. The Canon S screens are a much, much better deal for the money and installation is a breeze. They also let you "focus" on composition and your subject anywhere in the frame. The Katzeye screens do a fantastic job on older cameras that do not have a factory option, but do require you to use the center of the frame. I am happy that I've tried both and I am satisfied with both. I will not be replacing any of my "S" screens with a Katzeye one.

I hope this helps you in your decision.

Darron



Kit Laughlin
Registered: Mar 08, 2004
Total Posts: 2828
Country: Australia

Quick comment, for now: there are three distinct light paths, with potential manufacturing/assembly errors:

1. Llve View, if present: 100% accurate, in my experience

2. Viewfinder/prism/focussing screen (stock or aftermarket)

3. Focus confirm lights/LEDs

2. and 3. use the partially silvered mirror light paths (one up into prism; the other down below sensor, via secondary mirrors).

Either 2 or 3 can be out through manufacturing/assembly error; path 2 is the one that requires the shim, if necessary.

Last point is that both Canon's and Nikon's standard screens are shimmed at the factory (Nikon, at least, have five different shims standard), and as far as I can tell, the AF (path 3) is the one that is checked and not the MF path (only Alt. glass folk use this one, these days!). hth, kl



cogitech
Registered: Apr 20, 2005
Total Posts: 10909
Country: Canada

norrad wrote:
Hello,

I have both screens, 2X over. My opinion is that it mostly depends on your camera.

I first picked up an ef-s screen for my 40D. Cogitech mentioned all the pluses of the precision matte screen. However, my manual focusing didn't seem to improve much initially. I was still curious about the katzeye also.

Then I picked up a used katzeye, with optibrite and grid lines for a rebel xt 350D here on FM for only $50. This was a terrific deal IMO as new this would have been $200. This screen utterly transformed my 350D. It made a huge difference right off the bat. When I sold the camera I removed the screen and put it my father's 400D. The alignment in 350D was spot on, removing the stock screen and installing the katzeye keeping the stock shim. On the 400D it was a little more work. With the stock shim things weren't working, images in-focus in the VF were blurry once taken, and if you used AF the image appeared out-of-focus in the VF but was sharp in the file. So I removed the katzeye, removed the stock shim, and then reinstalled the katzeye. Now things lined up very well and my father decided to keep and use the katzeye screen.

In the next few months I've looked for a katzeye screen for my 20D and finally found one here on FM for less than $50 with optibrite. The installation in the 20D kept the stock shim and aligned very well.

I also have a 5D. I probably would have looked for a katzeye screen for it but honestly didn't want to pay $150 or more and so went with the Canon Ee-S. I've been extremely pleased with the Ee-S in the 5D. Also, the installation of the Canon screens into the cameras they are meant for is straightforward, direct and takes all of 2 minutes.

I've haven't had any alignment issues with the Canon screens I've tried. One of the Katzeye screens did require some testing and work (had to remove the stock shim) in order to get it aligned. I can see how in some cases a different sized shim than stock might be needed and this would require a lot of trial and error and access to different sized shims.

After a while of using and practicing with the 40D and Ef-S screen my results have improved and I like it enough to not look for a katzeye screen. My feeling is that the brighter VF in the 5D makes using the precision matte screen a bit easier than in the 40 / 50D series.

The katzeye screens I have tried were both on cameras that Canon doesn't offer a precision screen for, the 350/400D and the 20D. The screens were both optibrite treated and I have been quite happy with both of them, but it takes more time and skill to install them than the Canon screens in the other cameras. The optibrite screens seem, to me, to stay brighter when used with f4 and f5.6 lenses than the Canon S screens do.

I know I've written a bit here and I hope it isn't confusing.

Basically I feel it boils down to this. Both screens are better performers than the stock screen for MF, unquestionably. The Canon S screens are a much, much better deal for the money and installation is a breeze. They also let you "focus" on composition and your subject anywhere in the frame. The Katzeye screens do a fantastic job on older cameras that do not have a factory option, but do require you to use the center of the frame. I am happy that I've tried both and I am satisfied with both. I will not be replacing any of my "S" screens with a Katzeye one.

I hope this helps you in your decision.

Darron


I think this is a near-perfect summary of the current state of manual focusing with Canon dSLRs. Well done, Darron.



eplastiq
Registered: Aug 09, 2008
Total Posts: 126
Country: Spain

Well. a lot of good info.

i'm one of those stubborn persons that think when an item is expensive it should be better. in fewer words: you get what you pay for. i'm an IT guy and i know about components and which ones i like and normally they are more expensive because they perform better. this is why i had in mind the katzeye. having read all the replys (darron, thanks for the complete opinion ) the logical option should be the canon EF-S. so i'll think a little more about it and probably i'll get one in a few weeks and i'll see if it's enough for me (probably will).

once i test it i'll try to post the impresions

marc.



norrad
Registered: Mar 24, 2008
Total Posts: 429
Country: United States

cogitech wrote
I think this is a near-perfect summary of the current state of manual focusing with Canon dSLRs. Well done, Darron.

Thanks Paul!

There are so many threads here on FM where I have learned so very much. I am quite grateful when I am able to "pay back" even just a little bit.



eplastiq
Registered: Aug 09, 2008
Total Posts: 126
Country: Spain

Doing my research i've found this document explaining how a split screen works. I thought it might be interesting for someone.

http://doug.kerr.home.att.net/pumpkin/Split_Prism.pdf

marc.



Sam N
Registered: Dec 16, 2006
Total Posts: 1262
Country: United States

The Canon S screens have served me well in the 40D and 5DII. I'd almost like something brighter but without a split-prism. I do agree that the prism can be very distracting.

Then again, the only time the S screens aren't bright enough are indoors w/ F4 lenses, which isn't enough light to use those lenses anyhow. It's also VERY easy to swap back to the original screen.



cuonghuutran
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Total Posts: 442
Country: United States

cogitech wrote:
I highly recommend spending a few weeks with the Ef-S. All of these screens will take some practice. If you then still think you want/need a split-screen w/prism collar, you can easily sell the Ee-S at a small loss.


I second that. I used Katz screen and found it distracting. I am using Ef-S now and really like it. The screen is darker than the standard screen though.



brainiac
Registered: Nov 22, 2005
Total Posts: 7524
Country: United Kingdom

I had a Brightscreen and it was a disaster. It didn't even agree with itself: the microprism and split pea gave different focus points. Canon S screens work well for me. A plain matte screen is the best as there are no distractions. Learn to focus bracket quickly too.



Marcel VanEerd
Registered: Mar 02, 2007
Total Posts: 1834
Country: Canada

I only use MF alt glass and I've used a Katzeye in my 20D for a long time, and I really like it. I come from a long-time film background, so manual focusing is second nature to me. A precision matte screen would work fine as well. The only thing I wish, is that the split was a diagonal one, instead of horizontal.

My 1D classic has a split screen that came with it when I bought it. It's a Canon screen - have no idea what type of screen it is.



jerrykur
Registered: Feb 15, 2005
Total Posts: 3658
Country: United States

Katzeye (Rachel) really stand behind their product. When I first installed on in my 20D I was having some problems getting it properly installed and was complaining about it on the forums in DP Review on Saturday morning. I was going to send them my camera but they called me and said since they were located near me could I bring the camera over. Rachel took a look at the camera, diagnosed my error, and fixed the problem in a few minutes.

Jerry



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