I'm looing into the possibility of using this type of combination for my Canon 80-200L F/2.8. The OEM Canon shade when mounted is a touch long to try to get your fingers into to rotate the Polarizing filter.I'm looking at the 72mm Metal screw in shade, with the B+W 72mm MRC CPL. This way I believe the shade screws right into the threads on the lens or the filter, and the shade can rotate to adjust the CPL. Also thinking about the same type of setup for the Canon 50 f/1.4.

Does anyone use this type of setup, and what is your experience. Thanks...

Should work fine -- a lot easier to deal with than a bayonet hood.

I sometimes use a Hoya rubber hood for this purpose. It's not so tough as a steel or plastic hood (which I generally prefer), but it's very flexible [1]. Here's a shot of a 77mm Hoya hood with B+W KSM CPL on my 24-70L at tele and wide focal lengths. It's also great for shooting through a window or glass case, as you can press the hood up against the glass (and so avoid most reflections), and then angle it left-right/up-down quite a bit, without it lifting off the glass. OTOH, a 77mm Hoya hood with step-up rings on a more slender lens looks a lot like a toilet plunger.

[1] pun not originally intended, but I can live with it

I use a rubber hood with a CPL on my 85! Works just fine.

E

Thanks for the examples and validation. I'm looking at the metal hoods because I think they have the threaded end that I can attach a cap to. But wither way now I know I have the option. THANKS AGAIN...

Rubber hood here, too.

My Canon snap on cap fits just fine on my rubber hood.

E

Jim,

I see your rubber hoods are L quality what with the red ring and all !!

The bayonet lens hoods protect the front of the lens from damage if you drop it or hit it hard. The metal hood that is screwed in the filter thread will transfer most of the energy to the lens. How about using the bayonet type and have the end cut or machined off?

Mirek Elsner wrote:
The bayonet lens hoods protect the front of the lens from damage if you drop it or hit it hard. The metal hood that is screwed in the filter thread will transfer most of the energy to the lens. How about using the bayonet type and have the end cut or machined off?

I would imagine that would reduce the efficiency of the reduction of lens flare and glare to the element. I understand the OEM's are supposed to be somewhat breakaway and add some type of assurance to avoid breaking the lens. I''m speaking from a pure functional aspect with the screw on hoods straight into the adjustable CPL ring. I guess if I get the metal ones absolutely no shoch absorption value whatsoever, at least the the rubber shades will soften the impact. Nice way to make my really consider the purchase process though....THANKS...

reggie747 wrote:
Jim,

I see your rubber hoods are L quality what with the red ring and all !!

It's important to coordinate when accessorizing.