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AuntiPode Registered: Aug 05, 2008 Total Posts: 4922 Country: New Zealand |
It's unfortunate that only the first has good separation between hair and background. When you photograph to emphasize hair it helps to have a "hair light", especially for dark hair, to separate it from the back ground. The difficulty masking hair often limits what you can do in post processing, although I suspect there are masking tools and techniques that would help. |
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AuntiPode Registered: Aug 05, 2008 Total Posts: 4922 Country: New Zealand |
In general, if you're not using an lens or camera body with shake reduction I'd recommend significantly higher shutter speed. Few people can hand hold for optimum sharpness at 1/60, let alone 1/30 of a second. The old rule of thumb of 1/focal length assumes very good hold technique and relatively small viewing magnification - something like printing the image to 4 x 6 or something like that, as I recall. Although sharpening techniques can make images appear sharper, it's no substitute for a sharp original. |
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3ntreri Registered: Oct 24, 2009 Total Posts: 210 Country: Canada |
Hmm, I suppose I should have bumped the ISO up to 400 or 800 then, or left it on AUTO. I just realized the EXIF data was stripped when I uploaded the shots, I was shooting with a Canon T1i, using a 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS telephoto and a polarizing filter. I also had a Speedlite 380EX mounted to the camera but I don't know if it did much good at the distance I was at. |
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AuntiPode Registered: Aug 05, 2008 Total Posts: 4922 Country: New Zealand |
Handhold speed depends upon focal length, whether it's windy and how still you can hold your camera. A heavier DSLR has less shake due to mirror slap. A light consumer-grade DSLR will often need a higher shutter speed. For lenses up to 135 mm I find 1/250 usually OK, if I do my part holding the camera steady. The only way to know what works for you is to experiment and view the resulting images at a large size. There's no real cost to experimenting with digital and much to learn. |