RMS956 wrote:
I recommend this online Cyber Commander instruction site and not the PCB one. At least until they update their paper manual.

http://www.webecool.com/


That's a good link.

I'm looking forward for someone to put up a how-to-step-by-step video on youtube

RMS956 wrote:
I recommend this online Cyber Commander instruction site and not the PCB one. At least until they update their paper manual.

http://www.webecool.com/


That is a PCB site, though not everyone knows about it.

RMS956 wrote:
Paul Buff wrote:
Cell phone or point and shoot camera pouches with belt loop work good for CC. They are $5 to $20 at Walmart, etc.

Yes indeed they do make nice little unit cases. I had modded a couple for my CSRB+s as shown here along with one of two HOBDs, CST on camera and CyberCommander.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/1/24/2283141/CC%20CST%20CSRB%2B%20HOBD.jpg




Kewl Idea, headed to wally world tonight!!

Paul Buff wrote:
The best way to us CC is to always leave a CST on your camera. It will trigger the lights according to the CC setup. This way you don't have to take the CC off your camera to make measurements. Put it in your pocket or cell phone pouch.

Could someone elaborate on this? (I am a newb to using strobes) I just ordered the Cyber Commander and two CSRB+'s. I was under the impression the CC should simply be mounted on the camera, but I guess this strategy of keeping the CC off-camera is worthwhile to use it as a light meter? Just wondering if I should add a CST to my order (since I have to wait two weeks until my CC can ship anyway).

I've been shooting using the Nikon CLS for nearly a year now. Been wanting to make the leap to strobes, but when I caught wind of the innovative Cyber Commander/Einstein system a year ago I decided I would wait until these became available so that I would make the leap with the best new technology. I've depended on TTL thus far, so I'll now be going through the learning curve of doing everything manual. Hence, I have never used a light meter. I know that shooting digital eliminates the necessity of light metering, but it appears experienced photographers still put value in light metering. Can anyone recommend a good resource online in the form of a concise article/guide to light metering?

Here's the kit I just ordered:

- Vagabond II
- Cyber Commander
- CyberSync Battery Powered Trigger Receiver - Plus (2)
- AlienBees B800
- Set of 4 Honeycomb Grids
- 22-inch High Output Beauty Dish
- Parabolic Umbrella Silver 86" (+ PLM Front Diffuser Fabric & PLM 7-inch Reflector)
- Speed Light Foot Adapter (2)

Am I missing anything important? I'll add more AB lights and light modifiers as I can (or preferably Einstein lights when they become available). I ordered the speed light foot adapters in hope of continuing to use my SB-600s with the new light setup (I'm aware I won't be able to adjust them remotely using the CC). Are speedlights sufficient in place of AB400s for hair/background lighting?

I know that posts like mine which indicate inexperience/naivety tend to earn rolling eyes and snide remarks, but I'll appreciate any information anyone can share. I am proud of the work I've accomplished thus far using only speedlights, and I look forward to the exploration yet to begin when my new gear arrives.

Kurt Chambers
Honolulu, HI
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kurtchambers/

yes, it's to use it as a lightmeter (also as a backup trigger)...speedlights will work for hairlights but you don't have a modeling light to aim it...

RDKirk wrote:
Alvaro3663 wrote:
I got my CC today.

After some initial panicking I managed to start figuring it out. So far the problem that I encountered is that when I change to a setting with lower lights, the dumping of the excess of energy is going very very slow. Any ideas?

Is it slower than the excess energy is dumped with the same decrease manually? I had long ago adopted the habit of just hitting the "Fire" button of my Radio Remote-1 when decreasing power, and I'd been doing that with the CC as well, so I hadn't noticed that it dumped any slower.

This is a good practice with any monolight system. Auto dumping from high to low power can take pretty long regardless of brand.

OK. This is great info. I have been waiting for an improved radio system for several years. (It was promised long ago.) I've been using the old radio system since it first came out. I have two transmitters and eight receivers. The RR1 is the main reason I use WL and ABs instead of my old Balcar units. I loved the concept as having this kind of control from the camera saved me a lot of time. (I shoot interiors so often there are many lights scattered all over the space.)

The problem with the old RR1 units is that the signal was often very weak or degraded. Many times the unit wouldn't flash even if it was close to the transmitter. I often put units outside of homes and have them aim through the windows and the RR1 system was very unreliable when used this way. So I had to supplement it with other radio sync systems often using two systems simultaneously into each light. I now find I have 4 transmitters and 15 receivers. Despite the unreliability I stuck with them.

So will this new unit work reliably when I place a flash outside of a home maybe 50 feet from the transmitter? Will it work behind a masonry and steel wall of a commercial building? My Pocket Wizzards will.

Also, while I don't know much about the new Einstein units, I wouldn't be surprised if I will want them when they do come out. So if I buy a bunch of the current receivers, what do I do with them when the Einsteins come out and have the $30 plug in receiver? (Perhaps I'll sell my 5 WL and 4 AB units too.) Will the Einstein units come out soon? If so, I won't buy the CC and receivers now but will wait.

On another note - I posted the following on another site to show why I recommend AB units for shooting interiors. Do I get any special credit for this Mr. Buff? ;<

I am going to recommend that you buy Alien Bee 1600s. I have been using them for about three years along with White Lightning X3200 and X2400 (no longer available.) I also have about 10 Balcar PSU 500ws and 1600ws heads and six packs (AC and battery) that I occasionally use.

I specialize in shooting interiors so this is why I recommend the Alien Bees.

1. They are small and lightweight. So you can travel with a bunch of them. Their size and shape allows you to hide them more easily than many other units. Monoblocks in general are much handier on location because every time you add a light, you are increasing power. With packs you are dividing power when you add a light. Plus connecting cords all over the place on an architectural shoot is a pain often requiring you to have several packs if the lights are going to be in various rooms. If you need one light on an upper balcony, it is a lot easier to carry an Alien Bee up a few flights of stairs than a heavy pack and head. The long shape of Profoto and many other monoblocks make them hard to shove up in a corner or hide behind a column. I have home-made reflectors for use with my Alien Bees in tight spaces. Being light weight makes them easy to boom out over a staircase or landing.

2. The Alien Bees have a radio remote control system (recently discontinued but about to be replaced by the better Cyber Commander system.) This allows me to control and adjust (in 1/10th stops) each light from the camera. A great time saver that also makes it easier to get exactly what you are after. For instance, if you have a light pointing into the room through a window from outside, do you really want to keep going outside to adjust it? In architectural usage, lights are often placed in difficult to reach locations.

http://www.alienbees.com/cybersyncplus.html

3. They are very inexpensive, well supported, and can be quickly and cheaply repaired. The flashtubes cost around $35. So if one unit gets damaged, it is no big deal to have it repaired. The inexpensive price allows you to have a lot of units so that you can do more creative lighting and also cover yourself if one goes down.

4. They are available in a variety of colors. This sounds strange but I bought all the colors because it helps in identifying them. That way I can tell my assistant to go to the "pink" one and tilt it down a little.

5. They accept Balcar reflectors, softboxes, etc. I have a bunch of these. At one time Balcar made some unique softboxes that are especially useful for interior photography. The Balcar 7" reflectors can be fitted with Lowel DP light 7" barndoors and other Lowel accessories. These banrdoors offer better control than others that I have seen from strobe manufacturers and serve double duty with my Lowel hot lights.

6. The Vagabond II battery system (which I do not have) looks like a great way to run the lights when there is no AC available or you'd have to run a cord across the scene. (This is common in bathtubs and showers.) I would have bought the Vagabond system, but I already had three Balcar battery systems and three Norman 200ws battery units. I often light the exterior of houses with these.

7. I was on one shoot and the homeowner started looking at the lights and said, "Alien Bee, that is an interesting name..."

8. They have plenty of power for shooting interiors at ISO 100 with digital cameras. I typically shoot around f8-f10 and don't have the units at full power. I can generally get f16 (ISO 100) if I need it. Of course modern cameras can be used at higher ISOs now. They are a bit more powerful than my Balcar 1600ws units that were very expensive and are much bigger and heavier. (Even though the Balcar PSU was a fairly light hybrid pack/monoblock system.) In the old days with 4x5 I needed f16-22, and I often had filters in place. So I had to multi-pop with the Balcars.

The only possible drawback I have seen with monoblocks is if you plug a bunch of them into a single AC circuit, you may trip the breaker. But you can easily carry extension cords to run to other outlets. I have tripped breakers with packs too.

The fans in the Alien Bees cool the electronics but not the flashtube/modeling light. I don't use the modeling light very often as no modeling light is very useful during the daytime on typical architectural interior shots. My Balcar lights (and some other brands) have fans that cool the electronics but also blow air onto the the flashtube and modeling bulb. This may be useful if you leave the modeling lights on all of the time and have gel filters close to the bulbs. It also may help keep the tubes cool during fast repetitive shooting over a period of time. I typically don't do that on interior projects. But this might be a limitation with the Alien Bees favoring another brand for heavy duty shooting. (Check their duty cycles.) I don't see the duty cycle listed for the Alien Bees so you might want to call them if you are concerned. The White Lightning X1600 is listed as having a duty cycle of 400 flashes per hour. I think the two units have similar electronics and specs but the X series has heavier duty construction and has an overheat warning alarm.

If you want to see some examples of my lighting, go to my web site and click on "Model Homes." My Photoshelter site also has many examples.

www.goldsteinphoto.com

With regard to using ABs and WLs on location, this is the set-up I've devised--using Vagabonds and (until now) the Radio Remote-1 for maximum portability and small footprint.

I've been using some SKB Freedom stand cases from B&H as the basis of my on-location system. What I like about the SKB Freedom case is that it loads upright like a golf bag--that gives it a small footprint in clients' homes and offices.

I call it "Shoot-n-Scoot" (taken from US Army self-propelled artillery jargon). Combined with Paul C Buff lights, remote controls, and portable power, each case forms a self-contained light unit I can wheel nearly anywhere, set up, and not touch again until I decide to wheel it to a different location.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060581205/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060579889/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4061324014/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060581781/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060581463/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060580803/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060581781/

I´m new at flash photography and I have a quick question about the CC and being able to control my Canon 430 with it.

I this have an adapter

jsolsona wrote:
will I still be able to control the power of the flash from the CC?


No. The CC does *not* remotely control hotshoe flash power...only AB/WL studio strobes...

Oh dear... I just bought some AB's from the aussie distro.
Looks like I need to put in another order for the CC and receivers

I bought a CC and two ac powered receivers about two weeks ago. I am slowly getting the hang of it. I have ordered a few more receivers and a smaller transmitter for my camera and will use the CC only to control the power settings. Not having to move the CC on and off the camera will be nice.

One item remains a mystery. When I start to use them each day, I turn on the power switch on the rear of my ABs. My receivers are the AC type so they start up when I turn on the AB switch. I start by going to step 16, and fire the right joy stick. Usually, the first time I fire them, the strobes kick out a full power dump of light. Sometimes, on the second push of the joy stick, the power seems to be in line with with the power setting. Today, I had to push the right joy stick about 8 times before the light's power was equal to the setting. Once the light output settles down, it works fine, but each day, I have to trigger them a few times, and never the same number of times. Does this happen to others?

I did read a post about un plugging the receiver when the AB is off, turn it on and then plug in the receiver's jack. If that is what needs to be done, that is fine, but I have one overhead in a softbox and it would be nice not having to climb up a step ladder to un plug the jack each time.

All in all, they work well and I am happy with them.

Jim_Escalante wrote:
I bought a CC and two ac powered receivers about two weeks ago. I am slowly getting the hang of it. I have ordered a few more receivers and a smaller transmitter for my camera and will use the CC only to control the power settings. Not having to move the CC on and off the camera will be nice.

One item remains a mystery. When I start to use them each day, I turn on the power switch on the rear of my ABs. My receivers are the AC type so they start up when I turn on the AB switch. I start by going to step 16, and fire the right joy stick. Usually, the first time I fire them, the strobes kick out a full power dump of light. Sometimes, on the second push of the joy stick, the power seems to be in line with with the power setting. Today, I had to push the right joy stick about 8 times before the light's power was equal to the setting. Once the light output settles down, it works fine, but each day, I have to trigger them a few times, and never the same number of times. Does this happen to others?

I did read a post about un plugging the receiver when the AB is off, turn it on and then plug in the receiver's jack. If that is what needs to be done, that is fine, but I have one overhead in a softbox and it would be nice not having to climb up a step ladder to un plug the jack each time.

All in all, they work well and I am happy with them.

I have the CC and AC receivers as well. After I turn on the AB's I manually trigger the receiver, with is at full power and do a "DownLoad" from memory on the CC. I notice that the modeling light and power now falls into line. One CC manual trigger to make sure it's dumped the energy, and it seems good to go.

Thanks Louhand, Oh, I see, you trigger the RECEIVER. I have never done that. I always start by triggering the transmitter. First thing tomorrow I will look for the trigger on the receiver. THANKS! Jim

I've used the CC along with battery and AC receivers on a few jobs. The trick I have found with the receivers is after powering up the lights, I set the transmitter to "ALL" then I change the power setting and fire the unit. This sends a new power setting signal to the receivers - otherwise they will be at full power until each light is adjusted individually.

The battery receiver units retain the power setting if you unplug the light or turn off a light and then power it up again before the receiver turns off. (An hour or so after it has been turned on if it isn't activated again.) But you need to unplug the phone cord and plug it back in to get the receiver to work. (Otherwise it will only make a spark from the trigger circuit.) This is only necessary with the battery powered receivers for some reason.

I've also found that the little dials for setting the frequency and channels can get moved slightly when moving the lights or in packing or in transit. The ones on the battery receivers seem more vulnerable than the ones on the AC units. I've only had this happen on one unit but it seemed that it didn't have to move much before it wouldn't fire. So I've taped over all the dials.

Thanks Alan, your suggestion
"The trick I have found with the receivers is after powering up the lights, I set the transmitter to "ALL" then I change change the power setting and fire the unit. "

seems to take care of my problem. Today, I hit the reset on the receivers and they still triggered at full power, even after several test fires from the CC. As soon as I did what you suggested, the lights triggered at the ratio that is set to the CC. I think I have this solved.

I appreciate the suggestion friends.

jim

Jim_Escalante wrote:
Thanks Alan, your suggestion
"The trick I have found with the receivers is after powering up the lights, I set the transmitter to "ALL" then I change change the power setting and fire the unit. "

seems to take care of my problem. Today, I hit the reset on the receivers and they still triggered at full power, even after several test fires from the CC. As soon as I did what you suggested, the lights triggered at the ratio that is set to the CC. I think I have this solved.

I appreciate the suggestion friends.

jim


Because I frequently unplug and move my lights, at first I was pretty upset that each reverted to full power. The old RR1 radio system didn't have this problem. I believe the RR1 sent a signal to set the power each time you fired the flash from the remote. But the CC unit only sends a power adjustment signal when the power or modeling light settings are changed. Apparently, the flash trigger signal is unrelated.

I spent some time on the phone with Buff's technical support asking if there was an easy way to send a reset signal, or if one could be implemented in future firmware. They told me to save the power setting to memory before unplugging my flashes and then open the memory when I plug them back it. This seemed like a hassle. Then I reasoned that a power change on all channels would have to do this. I just choose "ALL," add a 10th stop and then subtract a 10th stop, dump the lights, and I'm back in business.

So maybe someone should tell them?

Alan,
Your statement "But the CC unit only sends a power adjustment signal when the power or modeling light settings are changed. Apparently, the flash trigger signal is unrelated."
clears up so much! It all makes sense now. Like you, I probably will not save the settings before I move them. I will just remember to change the power setting at the start of each set up. I missed this in the documentation.

I received a third receiver and a small transmitter for the camera today. It is working very well now. Thanks again.
jim

Because I frequently unplug and move my lights, at first I was pretty upset that each reverted to full power. The old RR1 radio system didn't have this problem. I believe the RR1 sent a signal to set the power each time you fired the flash from the remote. But the CC unit only sends a power adjustment signal when the power or modeling light settings are changed. Apparently, the flash trigger signal is unrelated.

Actually, I believe the RR1 receivers locked and saved their last setting and applied it again when they were turned on again. I used the RR1 with an eBay separate trigger system, and I know that if I merely turned the receivers on and fired the lights with the eBay trigger without even touching the control unit, the lights were still at the same setting as before. So I believe the trigger was separate from the control even in the RR1.

It appears that unlike RR1, the Cyber receivers don't retain their last setting, and the transmitter doesn't seem to "resend" the setting immediately when it's turned on.